YAMAHA RAPTOR 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold

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Honda CBR 400RR Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-12-2011

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Once you have found al1 the identification nurnbers, record thern for reference when nbuying parts. Since the rnanufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (cornpanies that rnanufacture various cornponents on the
rnachine), providing the ID nurnbers is the only av to be reasonablv sure that vou are buvina Model, c ~ d e and
production year CBR400RR-J (1988) CBR400RR-K (1 989) CBR400RR-L (t990 and 91) CBR400RR-N (1992 and 93) CBR400RR-R (1 994-on) , the correct parts. Whenever possible, take the worn pari to the dealer so direct cornparison with the new cornponent can be rnade. Along the trail frorn the rnanufacturer to the parts shelf, there are nurnerous places that the part can end up with the wrong nurnber or be listed incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for
your rnotorcycle – the accessory shop and the rnotorcycle dealer – differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your rnotorcycle, the accessory shop is usually lirnited to norrnal high wear iterns such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have rnajor suspension cornponents, cylinders, transrnission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take your worn part to the breaker for direct cornparison. Whetherhu~ng new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to dea1 directly with sorneone who specialises in parts for your particular rnake. Frame nwnber NC23-1020001 t0 1036454 NC23 t090001 t0 10981 16 NC29-1000001 to 101 0598 NC29-1050001 on NC29-l t00001 on Unofficial (grey) imports
All CBR400RR rnodels in the LIK are unofficial (grey) irnports frorn Japan. The rnajority are second-hand rnachines and are allocated age-related licence plates for UK use (the licence plate letter reflects the production year in Japan), although new CBRs are allocated current year UK registration letter plates. Cornrnon changes rnade prior to sale in the UK are the disabling of the rev-lirniter device (or more correctly ‘speed-lirniter’ device), which is fitted to cornply with Japanese rnarket regulations. The device is located inthe speedorneter head and is linked to th

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YAMAHA ROAD STAR HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Loosen the two 19mm riser mounting nuts located on the bottom side of the upper steering head. Pry out the chrome plugs from the heads of the four handlebar top clamp bolts using a knife blade. Loosen the four handlebar top clamp 6mm socket head screws. 2. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four screws from the clamps and then the clamps. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 3. Remove the nuts from the bottom of the risers and remove the risers. Insert the two supplied spacer tubes into the riser mounting holes on the upper steering head. Using the bolts, lock washers and washers supplied install the new risers making the bolts finger tight only. (Take care not to scratch the top surface of the upper steering head while installing the new risers.) 4. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Reinstall the top clamps using the four socket head screws removed earlier. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position, tighten the front bolts first and then the rear securely. (15-18 ft. lbs. There should be no gap between the riser and clamp at the front side.) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.) 5. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and then right checking for any pulling or binding of the wires, hoses or cables. Also check that the throttle returns freely on it’s own

HARLEY DAVIDSON FXD HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-12-2010

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Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Using a æ” socket loosen the two riser mounting bolts located on the bottom side of the upper steering head. Using a º” hex key wrench loosen the four handlebar top clamp bolts. 2. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four bolts from the top clamp and then remove the clamp. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 3. Remove the bolt from the bottom of one of the risers and remove the riser while keeping the bolt in place. Place one of the supplied Ω” washers onto the protruding bolt, and then the new riser (Note; There are LEFT & RIGHT risers.) and mount the bolt finger tight. (Take care not to scratch the top surface of the upper steering head while installing the new risers.) 4. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the top clamp using the supplied four black 5/16-18 X 1 º” bolts. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position; tighten the clamp bolts evenly making sure the gap between the clamps & risers are the same. (15-18 ft. lbs.) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). 5. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and then right checking for any pulling or binding of the wires, hoses or cables. Also check that the throttle returns freely on its own

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HONDA VTX1300 "C" MODEL HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2010

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1. Lay a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to protect it. 2. Remove from underneath, the two hex nuts holding the handlebars to the upper triple clamp. (Steering head) Remove handlebars & carefully set on blanket. 3. NOTE: Be careful not to scratch the upper triple clamp when installing the new risers. Assemble the supplied lock washers and flat washers onto the supplied bolts. Install the new risers onto the triple clamp and finger-tighten the bolts. 4. Re-install the handlebars onto the risers & finger tighten the nuts. Align handlebars & risers to be parallel & centered. Tighten the two riser-mounting bolts securely. Tighten the handlebar mounting nuts securely. Check for adequate clearance and proper routing of cables and hoses

Ignition Upgrade Module for 2004-up Carbureted Harley Davidson Motorcycles Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Grasp the sides of the electrical caddy (located next the ignition coil) and pull outward to remove. 3. Remove the relay and fuse panels from the electrical caddy. a. Insert a small screwdriver into the slot under each fuse and relay panel. b. Using a screwdriver, disengage the panel from the electrical caddy. 4. Disconnect the main fuse connector from the electrical caddy a. Remove the main fuse from the connector b. Insert small screwdrivers into the slots on each side of the main fuse c. Depress the tabs of the main fuse connector to disengage it from the electrical caddy
Thunder Heart Performance Corp. 615-672-8811 www.thunder-heart.com 2 EI5075.doc 5. Depress the tab located on the electrical caddy securing the TSM/TSSM. Pull it from the electrical caddy. Disconnect the TSM/TSSM connector. 6. Slide the data link connector towards the front of the motorcycle to disengage it from the electrical caddy. 7. Disconnect the ignition control module connector. 8. Disconnect the ignition coil connector and spark plug cables from the coil. 9. Remove the electrical caddy fasteners (3 total). 10. Remove the wiring from the electrical caddy. 11. Remove the fasteners securing the factory ignition control module from the electrical caddy. 12. Installation of the Digital Ignition Module is the reverse of removal. 2.2 Touring Models 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the right saddlebag. 3. Gently pull the side cover from the frame downtubes (no tools required). 4. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to remove the electrical connector from the ignition control module. 5. Remove the two socket screws to detach the ignition control module from the electrical bracket. 6. To install the Digital Ignition Module, install and tighten the socket screws to 50-60 in-lbs . The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. 2.3 Softail Models 1. Remove the seat. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the two screws to free the ignition control module from the mounting bracket. 4. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to remove the electrical connector from the ignition control module. 5. To install the Digital Ignition Module, install and tighten the socket screws to 15-21 in-lbs . The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal

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Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-11-2010

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You can see where I drilled the holes to mount the bracket. (2566, 2567) You’ll have to bend the bracket to fit and reposition it on the servo (the extra holes are already there on the servo to move the bracket). Just bend it until it lays flat on the back of the plastic box. You’ll have to unbolt the two bolts that hold the plastic box in place to work on it. I made the hole in the front of the box (where the servo cable goes through) way too large, but I wasn’t sure what angle it would be at when I installed it, so I kept cutting it bigger so the cable wouldn’t be bent too sharp. (2565) I ran the servo cable along the top frame under the tank, around the front cylinder and into a bracket (that came with the unit) that I cut off to fit. I attached the bracket to the screw on the air cleaner, but you really have to do a lot of grinding on the bracket to get it to fit the area so that it will lay flat and tighten up with the screw. You’ll see what I mean when you put a piece of metal or bracket up to that hole. It’s not flat, so I used a moto-tool to cut slots in the bracket and a grinder to grind it down smaller so that it would fit in that area. I used the long “cable” and no bead chain to connect to the throttle. (2560) First take off your throttle grip and release the “pull” cable (the front one) so you can remove it from the carb lever. Then put the cable end over the throttle cable end and re-insert it, then re-assemble your throttle. Hook the ball on the end of the long cable (there are two or three cables in the kit, use the long one) to one of the bead chain connectors (you have to spread it first) and then close it back up. (2563) Spread the other end and hook it to the servo cable and then using your pliers, close it again. Ok, now you have the servo all hooked up. You’ll need a vacuum canister, which you can buy at JC Whitney, or make one from PCV pipe (2″) with caps. (2554, 2555) Drill two 5/16″ holes in the pipe, tap(1/8″) them and insert brass 3/16″ nipples for your vacuum hose. (2568) Hook the black of the Napa one-way vacuum check valve end up to your engine vacuum and the blue end to your canister. I disconnected the emissions canister from the cylinder number one intake. I then uncapped the vacuum tap on the number two cylinder intake and connected the two together with a “T” (from the kit) and the connected the remaining end of the “T” to the black end of the check valve. (2556) The other nipple on your canister gets connected to the servo (drill a whole in the bottom of the black box to run it in). Wiring: Drill a hole in the top of the black box to run the wiring harness out. I’d suggest you take a roll of electrical tape and tape it up first. Leave the black ground wire out of the tape and also leave the purple and red wires out of the taped area about 8″ or 10″ up from the servo. You’ll want them near the servo so you can cross them over the bike to the right side and hook the black wire directly to the negative side of the battery. The purple wire connects to the yellow brake light wire and the red wire connects to the blue wire, which is hot when the key is on. The rest of the harness you can run along the left side of the frame, using wire tires to tie it off. Leave the blue wire out of the harness as you get to the front cylinder (so you can hook it to the front coil), or you could use the back cylinder coil. You can make a little “Y” harness out of spade connectors (female on one end, and male on the other two ends) to join the blue wire to the coil. Use the gray wire on the front coil or the orange wire on the rear coil

2008 Vespa GTS 250 Garmin Zümo 660 Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 28-10-2010

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A. Remove wind screen B. Remove riding mirrors C. Carefully pry off the Piaggio plate (note the glove as protection) D. Remove the screw behind it E. Remove the front top screw just below the headlight F. Do NOT remove this screw G. Remove the two screws on the bottom side to the left and right H. Remove the cover Step 2 – extending the hole By carefully using a file of knife make a small crater in the front end of the hole where the wind screen passes through the cover. This will allow you to tighten the mechanism while not damaging the cables. Step 3 – finding a path for the cables Now as the cable will not easily pass through the interior of the Vespa a bit of help is needed. A. Using an old cable/wire from the top side allows you to find a path down to the glove compartment. B. Securing the cabling to the old cable

Kawasaki V-Force 700 Snorkel REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove plastic from around air filter housing. Remove clamp attaching stock intake (snorkel) from air box. Loosen upper radiator hose clamp. Rotate it so the drive is on the opposite side of the new snorkel and retighten it. Loosen metal support for front plastic. Have a friend gently pull outward and carefully install the new snorkel. Position snorkel so it does not interfere with any cables or steering stem. Move handle bars back and forth. Check for clearance around new snorkel. Make sure all wires, cables and steering stem do not come into contact with the snorkel. Adjust as necessary. Tighten clamp at the air box. Reinstall plastic in opposite order of removal. At your own risk, you can cut slices in the black plastic hood on front of the quad to force the maximum amount of cold fresh air and produce additional horsepower. Jetting will vary from quad to quad and with the altitude

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