2007 KTM 250 XC-F, XCF-W, EXC-F 400 XC-W, EXC RACING 450 XC, XC-W, EXC RACING 525 XC, XC-W, EXC RACING 525 XC DESERT RACING INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 05-02-2012

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Headlamp switch (XC-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [1] . Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right Starter button Pushing the black starter button [2] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [5] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [6] lights up when the high beam is on. ENGLISH 7 2 Emergency OFF switch (EXC Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [3] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [4] will actuate the E-starter. 3 4 5 6 1 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 8 TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. WS (wheel size) The display changes and the circumference of the front wheel is briefly displayed in millimeters (2205 mm corresponds to a front wheel circumference of 21″ with production tires). Afterwards the display will return to the previous display mode

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

YAMAHA YZF R6T/ YZF R6TC SPECIFICATIONS AND SUPPLEMENTARY SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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This Supplementary Service Manual has been prepared to introduce new service and data for the,YZF-R6T / YZF-R6TC. For complete service information procedures it is necessary to use this Sup- plementary Service Manual together with the following manual. YZF-R6R / YZF-R6SR / YZF-R6RC / YZF-R6SRC SERVICE MANUAL: CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUES NOTE: 1. Insert the front wheel axle from the rightside and tighten it with the flange bolt from the left side to 91 Nm (9.1 m•kg, 66 ft•lb). 2. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without perform ing temporary tightening. 3. Check that the end face of the axle head and the end face of the fork side are flush- mounted. If they are out of alignment, make sure to fit them by adding the external force by hand or with a plastic hammer, etc. If the end face of the axle is not parallel to the end face of the fork, align them so that one point of the axle circumference is positioned on the end face of the fork. At this stage, it can be accepted if the end face of the axle becomes partially concave to the end face of the fork. 4. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without performing temporary tightening

HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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1982 Kawasaki KZ550C Electric Motorcycle Conversion Notes

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 03-12-2010

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Starting point: • 1982 Kawasaki KZ550C that I found in an alley near my house. Frame rust sanded and repainted. • Rebuilt front suspension ($25 for front fork oil seals, 1 weekend for repair) • Need-to-be-rebuilt front brake caliper • Need-to-be-replaced front master brake cylinder (expected ~$80) • Need-to-be-refurbished electrical wiring system and 12V battery • Working rear brake • Flat rear tire, patched with fix-a-flat (temporary repair), 77″ circumference. • In-tact 530 size 62″ chain with 36 tooth driven sprocket • Miscellaneous spare parts from 1978 Kawasaki KZ450, most of which fit on the 1982 frame, including an ignition switch and key. I started with a chassis I found in an alley near my house. It was in rough shape and needed some refurbishment before I could start the conversion. Most of refurbishment steps are listed above in bullets. In addition to the repainting and repair of important aspects of the bike, I also needed to remove the IC engine components and the grease caked on from years of IC use. The Clymer manual for this bike was helpful in this process, which was about $18 from [13]. Steps for removing the engine were as follows. I removed the seat and the gas tank. I removed the electrical system wiring and 12V battery holder. I then removed the carburetors (which took a lot of pushing and shoving) and air filter box. I then removed the drive socket cover and removed the drive socket from the engine drive shaft. This allowed me to slip the chain off of the drive socket after loosening the rear wheel to put slack into the chain. I slipped the chain off and let it rest on the rear wheel swing arm and drained the old motor oil. I then removed all of the engine mounting bolts and pushed the entire engine out of the right side of the bike. This took a lot of effort but it is possible to remove the engine without removing the piston heads as recommended in the Clymer manual. The engine weights about 60-70 lbs, so it was possible to handle with one person. I suggest using a flat car jack to help with engine removal. I will eventually sell the IC parts through Ebay

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KTM 125 EXC, EXC SIXDAYS 200 XC, XC-W, EXC 250 XC, XC-W, EXC, EXCSIXDAYS 300 XC, XC-W, EXC-E, EXC-ESIXDAYS OWNER'S MANUAL 2008

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Chassis number The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube. Enter this number in the field on page no 1. Engine number, engine type The engine number and the engine type are stamped into the left side of the engine below the engine sprocket. Enter this number on page 1. Clutch lever The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebars. The adjusting screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see maintenance work on chassis and engine). The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically. Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [2] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [B] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see maintenance work on chassis and engine). OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » 1 2 A B
ENGLISH 6 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. WS (wheel size) The display changes and the circumference of the front wheel is briefly displayed in millimeters (2205 mm corresponds to a front wheel circumference of 21″ with production tires). Afterwards the display will return to the previous display mode. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions. SPEED display mode / H (service hours) Only the SPEED / H and SPEED / ODO display modes are activated in the condition at delivery. SPEED/H is displayed whenever the display is activated and the front wheel is not turning. It automatically changes to the SPEED/ODO display mode as soon as the front wheel starts turning. SPEED displays the speed. H displays the engine’s service hours. The service hour counter starts to count as soon as you start the engine. The displayed figure cannot be changed. Service intervals are indicated in service hours for some KTM offroad motorcycles, making the service hour counter a very practical function. SPEED / ODO display mode (odometer) The SPEED/ODO mode displays the speed and the total distance traveled. The display automatically changes to the SPEED/H display mode when the front wheel stops turning. + button no function – button no function briefly press buttonchanges to the next display mode hold button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode The electronic speedometer has a number of display modes (functions) that you can also activate (reveal) (see: Activating and deactivating display modes).
ENGLISH 7 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » SPEED / LAP (lap time) display mode You can use the manual stop watch to stop and store up to 10 lap times, which you can view in the LAP/LAP display mode (see below). LAP displays the lap times in hours, minutes and seconds. + button Starts and stops the stop watch, lap time is not reset to 0 – button Stops the stop watch, stores the lap time and restarts the stop watch again. The time is reset to 0. A total of 10 lap times can be stored. If the lap time continues to run after you press the – button, all 10 memory locations are occupied.To clear all of the stored lap times, hold the button for 3 seconds in the SPEED/LAP mode.Up to 10 lap times can be stored in this way. briefly press buttonChanges to the next display mode.If no lap time is stored or the motorcycle is driving, the LAP/LAP mode will be skipped. hold button 3 secs. Clears all LAP figures SPEED / CLK (time) display mode CLK displays the time in hours, minutes and seconds. + button no function – button no function briefly press buttonchanges to the next display mode hold button 3 secs. set the clock menu To set the clock, see „Setting the clock”. Activating and deactivating display modes In the display mode SPEED/H, press and hold the button for 3 seconds to access the SETUP menu. The active functions will be displayed. The blinking function can be activated by pressing the + button and deactivated by pressing the – button. Press and hold the button 3 seconds to store the settings. If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the setting will be stored automatically and the display will return to the SPEED/H mode. + button activates the blinking display – button deactivates the blinking display briefly press buttonchanges to the next display without changing any settings hold button 3 secs. starts the SETUP stores the settings and changes to the SPEED/H mode

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S&S Super Stock Cylinder Head Kit Installation Instructions for 1984 And Later Evolution Big Twin and Sportster Engines

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result is that the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as “blue printing”, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore. NOTE – All engines should be checked upon disassembly. This applies to any engine receiving new pistons which includes those being completely overhauled. CAUTION – Pistons which do not run true in cylinder bores may cause excessive connecting rod side thrusting. This may lead to premature ring, piston, connecting rod and rod bearing wear and eventual failure of these parts. Visual Procedure A. Reinstall cylinders on old pistons without rings. Hold cylinders securely in place. B. Move piston tight toward camside of engine. C. Turn engine over in normal direction of travel 2 or 3 revolutions and observe piston during process. D. Move piston toward driveside of engine and repeat Step C. If misalignment exists, piston will appear closer to cylinder wall at one point around circumference. Condition can be corrected by bending rod in opposite direction. Figure 1 shows an exaggerated side view. E. Repeat Steps B to D for other cylinder. F. Remove pistons and cylinders. Observe pistons for wear spots on sides above top compression ring. If either side near wristpin is worn clean while side opposite is carboned up, then piston was not running straight and true in cylinder bore. Piston will also generally show diagonal wear pattern on thrust faces of skirts and possibly signs of connecting rod to wristpin boss contact inside piston.

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2001 – 2002 GL1800/ GL1800A Rear Tire Inspection

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-11-2010

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1. Inspect the motorcycle for a punch mark as described in Identification on page 2. If a punch mark is present no further action is necessary, return the unit to the customer. 2. Qualify the unit/customer as follows: •Is the tire on the motorcycle the original factory installed tire? •Is the air pressure loss more than three psi per month? Note: Refer to page 145 in the Owner’s Manual. “Even tires that are in good condition may lose one to two psi per month if not checked and adjusted regularly” . If the GL1800 meets the above qualifications, proceed with the repair procedure. 3. Place the motorcycle on a lift and secure it on the centerstand. 4. Remove the rear wheel as described on page 14-9 of the Service Manual. 5. Starting at the valve stem/balance mark area, carefully remove the rear tire from the wheel. Be sure to use plenty of commercially available tire lubricant on the inside and outside of both beads. 6. Carefully inspect the entire circumference of both tire beads. Inspect both the inside and outside of the bead for any distortion or injuries. See examples of injuries below. 2001 – 2002 GL1800/GL1800A Rear Tire Inspection GL1800 #6 OCTOBER 2001 MTB 9430 (0109) CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely maintain your Honda. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-ityourselfers,” and you should not assume this bulletin applies to your Honda, or that your Honda has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an authorized Honda dealer. Service Bulletin American Honda Motor Co., Inc. 2001-2002 GL1800/GL1800A Rear Tire Inspection 0110 GL1800 #6*GL1800 #6*0110*2001-2002 GL1800/GL1800A Rear Tire Inspection*GL1800/GL1800A, Rear Tire Inspection, Bead, Tread*Motorcycle*1800 2 of 4 ©2001 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved GL1800 #6 OCTOBER 2001 Inside BeadInjury Outside BeadInjury Outside BeadInjury 7. Carefully inspect the entire circumference of both tire beads. Inspect both the inside and outside of the bead for any distortion or injuries. See examples of injuries below. 8. If there is no evidence of bead damage, re-install the tire on the rim. Be sure to use plenty of commercially available tire lubricant on the inside and outside of both beads. Be sure to align the balance dot with the valve stem. Inflate the tire to 41 psi. Install the wheel assembly on the motorcycle and proceed to the Identification and then to the Warranty section. 9. If any damage or injury is present replace the tire and valve stem. Be sure to use plenty of commercially available tire lubricant on the inside and outside of both beads. Balance the new tire as necessary

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