HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL REAR BRAKE LEVERS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove the cotter pin (5) and washer (E) from the master cylinder clevis pin (B). Discard the cotter pin. NOTE The clevis pin has a slight interference fit. It may be necessary to use pliers to pull the clevis pin from the push rod. Be careful not to damage mating parts. 2. Remove the clevis pin (B) from the brake rod. Thoroughly clean and examine parts for wear. Replace if necessary. 3. Remove the brake lever mounting screw (A) and flat washer (D), and save for reinstallation, if necessary. Remove and discard the outer O-ring (2). 4. Remove the brake lever by rotating counter-clockwise and lifting the master-cylinder clevis if necessary. Pull the lever from the shaft. Remove and discard the inner O-ring. 5. Thoroughly clean the lever mounting shaft of grease and dirt. INSTALLATION NOTE These levers are equipped with self-lubricating bushings. It is not necessary to lubricate the mounting shaft or bushings inside the lever prior to installation. 1. See Figure 1. Insert the new O-rings (4) on either side of the lever bushings (2). Install the new brake lever (1) onto the mounting shaft. NOTE There is insufficient clearance to install the clevis pin from the outside, so it must be installed from the inboard side of the brake lever. 2. Align the holes in the lever and brake rod and insert the stock clevis pin (B) from the inboard side. 3. Install the small flat washer (E) onto the clevis pin and insert the new cotter pin (5). 4. Place the large flat washer (D) onto the brake lever mounting screw (A). Apply Loctite 243 (blue) to the threads of the screw, and reinstall into the brake lever mounting shaft. Tighten the screw to 12-16 ft-lbs (16.3-21.7 Nm) . 5. Install the brake pedal pad (C) to the brake lever. After repairing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) 6. Check the brake lever for proper operation and clearance through its full travel

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XL CHROME FORWARD CONTROL KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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2008-05-05 XL CHROME FORWARD CONTROL KIT GENERAL Kit Number 33395-04, 33398-04 Models For model fitment information, please see the P&A Retail Catalog or the Parts and Accessories section of www.harley- davidson.com (English only). Additional Parts Required The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 5, Figure 6 and Table 1. INSTALLATION Remove Stock Shift Lever and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the shift lever retaining screw (2) securing the shift lever (1) to the shifter shaft. Slide the shift lever off the splined shaft. Remove shifter peg from lever and save for installation. Discard shift lever. 2. Remove the two socket head screws (4) securing the footrest bracket (3) to the frame and remove footrest. Discard screws. 3. See Figure 5. Obtain two hole plugs (1) from kit and firmly press plugs into frame screw holes remaining from footrest removal. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1) from the clevis to free the footrest clevis pin (4). Remove the clevis pin and footrest (3) from the footrest support. Save footrest for installation. Discard retaining ring, clevis pin, spring washer and footrest bracket. 1 2 4 3 is 01887 1. Shift lever 2. Retaining screw 3. Footrest bracket 4. Socket head screw Figure 1. Remove Shift Lever and Footrest 5 1 3 2 4 is 01901 1. Retaining ring 2. Spring washer 3. Footrest 4. Clevis pin 5. Footrest bracket Figure 2. Remove Left Footrest from Support Remove Stock Brake Pedal and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 3. At the right footrest, remove the retaining ring (1) clevis pin (2), footrest (3) and spring washer (4). Discard all hardware but save footrest for installation. 2. Remove brake rod (5) from brake pedal and master cylinder bell crank. Discard brake rod. 3. Remove the two screws (6) and right footrest/brake pedal support bracket with attached brake assembly from frame

HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER FORWARD CONTROL KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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Remove Stock Shift Lever and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the shift lever retaining screw (2) securing the shift lever (1) to the shifter shaft. Slide the shift lever off the splined shaft. Remove shifter peg from lever and save for installation. Discard shift lever. 2. Remove the two socket head screws (4) securing the footrest bracket (3) to the frame and remove footrest. Discard screws. 3. See Figure 6. Obtain two hole plugs (1) from kit and firmly press plugs into frame screw holes remaining from footrest removal. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1) from the clevis to free the footrest clevis pin (4). Remove the clevis pin and footrest (3) from the footrest support. Save footrest for installation. Discard retaining ring, clevis pin, spring washer and footrest bracket. 1 2 4 3 is03193 1. Shift lever 2. Retaining screw 3. Footrest bracket 4. Socket head screw (2) Figure 1. Remove Shift Lever and Footrest 5 1 3 2 4 is03194 1. Retaining ring 2. Spring washer 3. Footrest 4. Clevis pin 5. Footrest bracket Figure 2. Remove Left Footrest from Support Remove Stock Brake Pedal and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 3. At the right footrest, remove the retaining ring (1) clevis pin (2), footrest (3) and spring washer (4). Discard all hardware but save footrest for installation. 2. Remove the exhaust to access the brake rod. Follow the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. Remove brake rod (5) from brake pedal and master cylinder bell crank. Discard brake rod INSTALLATION Install Forward Control Brake Pedal and Footrest Assemblies 1. See Figure 5 and Figure 6. At the lower front of the right frame downtube, remove the two screws securing the J- clip (B) to the frame. Discard the screws but save J-clip for installation. 2. Install the other end of the brake rod into the brake pedal assembly (8). Tighten to 84-144 in-lbs (9.5-16.3 Nm) . NOTE Assemble the brake pedal and footpeg clevis onto the footrest support bracket (as described in the next step) prior to mounting the support bracket to the frame. This will allow easier installation of the footrest mount clevis retaining ring (installed to grooved end of footrest mount clevis). 3. Slide the brake pedal (8) onto footrest mount clevis (11) then slide clevis into footrest/brake pedal support bracket (9). Align hole in the clevis with hole in the support bracket and install screw (6). Tighten the screw to 18-22 ft-lbs (24.4-29.9 Nm) . 4. Install the footrest mount clevis retaining ring (18) to the groove at the end of the footpeg clevis. 5. Position the J-clip (from Step 1) against the frame aligning the mounting holes. Mount the footrest/brake pedal support bracket (9) and J-clip to frame using the new screws (3). Tighten the bracket to 45-50 ft-lbs (61.1- 67.9 Nm) . 6. Obtain the brake rod (15) from kit and thread one end into the master cylinder bell crank. Tighten to 120-180 in-lbs (13.6-20.3 Nm) . 7. Install footpeg on clevis with spring washer (2). Make sure spring washer is positioned inside clevis (11) with the square edge toward the inside. Align holes and push clevis pin (7) from top down through hole in clevis. Secure clevis pin using the new retaining ring (17). 8. Install exhaust following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. Install Forward Control Shift Lever Assembly

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Triumph SU CARBURETORS SERVICING AND TUNING

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Jets: These are made in various sizes ranging from.099 inches to.1875 inches, the larger sizes being used only for racing or very high performance engines. The two sizes most commonly found on production cars are the.090 inch and the.100 inch. The size of the jet will be found stamped on the jet head. The figure “nine”wilt indicate that it is the.090 inch and the figure “one”will indicate the.100 inch jet. When tuninga production car the jets size should be checked to make sure that it is of the size recommended by the manufacturers. Centering of Jet: If for any reason, the jet assembly has been removed, it will be ne cessary to recenter the jet. First, remove the clevis pin at the base of the jet which attaches the jet head to the jet operating lever. Withdraw the jet completely and remove the adjusting nut and spring, then replace the adjusting nut, without its spring, and screw it up toits highest position. Slide the Set into position until the jet head is against the base of the adjusting nut. When this has been done, find out if the piston is perfectly free by lifting it up with the finger and allowing it to drop. If the piston is not entirely free, slacken the jet screw and manipulate the lower part of the assembly, including the projecting part of the bottom half of the jet bearing, adjusting nut, and jet head. Make sure that this assembly is now slightly loose. The piston should then rise and fall quite freely as the needle is now able to move the jet into the required central position. The jet screw should now be tightened and a further check made to determine that the piston is still quite free. When complete freedom of the piston is achieved the jet adjusting nut should be removed, together with the jet, and the spring replaced. Experience has shown that a large percentage of carburetors, which have given trouble has been due to the incorrect centering of jets. Jet Needles— These are made in a great variety of sizes, probably now well over two hundred and fifty, and each type of engine hasaneedlethat has been selected, after very careful tests have been carried out, to give the best all-round performance. Most manufacturers actually give three alternative needles for each type and size of engine, these needles clearly being listed by the manufacturer “Standard”, “Rich”or”Weak”and before tuning is started the needle, which is marked on the shank should be checked against the manufacturer’srecommendation to make quite sure that the right needle is fitted; this is most important.

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MPS Electronic Engine Kill Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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blue wire should be connected to the normally open pole of the shift button. The Shift Button is a momentary type switch. The common pole of the shift button should be connected to a good ground and the normally open connects to the blue wire from the Electronic Engine Kill box. Electric Air Valve – The Electric Air Valve has two wires. These wires are interchangeable. One needs an ignition switched 12 volt power source. The other needs a ground signal when the shift button is depressed. The easiest way to do this is to locate the red and blue wires in the Electronic Engine Kill wire harness. Splice one Electric Air Valve wire into the red wire and splice the other Electric Air Valve wire into the blue. Once again soldering is the preferred method but you can use schotchlok splices. Setting Kill Time – Kill time is the amount of time the engine stays dead between gears during a shift. Generally the shorter the kill time the quicker the shift. The proper kill time will vary from bike to bike. Its generally better to start with to much kill time and work your way quicker. We generally start at around 75 ms. of kill time. The Kill Time is adjusted via a small potentiometer accessed through the grommet on the front of the unit. Using a small screwdriver Carefully turn the pot clockwise to the end of its travel. This is 100 ms of kill time. Now, carefully turn the pot screw counterclockwise to the end of its travel. This is 50 ms of kill time. Halfway in between is 75 ms. The pot only goes from 7 oclock to 5 oclock so don’t force it, they break easily! Testing The System – With no air in the system start the bike. Bring the rpm up to around 3000 rpm and push the shift button. You should hear a slight hesitation in the engine each time you depress the shift button. Once you establish that you have a engine kill when pushing the shift button remove the clevis pin from the shift cylinder and extend the shaft to the end of its travel. Air up the shifter to 120 psi. We also have onboard compressor kits available to conveniently fill the air tank on the fly or high pressure CO2 systems that can shift hundreds of times without refilling. With the engine off and the key on push the shift button

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