Ktm CRF-230 Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 27-01-2012

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Partially install the headlight assembly using the top right white zip tie only to hold it in place temporarily. You will need to plug wires to this assembly. Step 5: Install handlebar switch on clutch side. You will need to move clutch perch to the right (about ½ inch to1 inch) to make room for the switch. The switch plugs into the circuit board on the bottom of the headlight using the 8-pin plug (the only unused 8-pin one on the circuit board) Step 5: (Power harness) The power wire with the two pin plug runs from the battery to the 6 inch wire hanging from the control board. The red wire should be attached to the positive and the black wire to the negative of battery. You will need to notch the battery cover so the wire can fit with the cover closed. Step 6: (Taillight harness) The wire with the six pin plug is for the tail light. Run the wire down the left side of the bike. If you plan on using a front hydraulic brake switch use the front connectors and continue at Step 7A. If you are planning on using a mechanical rear brake switch use the green pair of connectors and continue at Step 7B. You can use both

KTM EXC taillights Installation manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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Step1: Remove headlight, (headlight switch) seat and gas tank from KTM. Step 2: Partially install the headlight assembly using the top right band only to hold it in place temporarily. You will need to plug wires to this assembly and if you put all four bands on you will not be able to make the connections. Step 3: Install handlebar switch on clutch side. You will need to move clutch perch to the right (about ½ inch to1 inch) to make room for the switch. The red knob on the clutch adjuster should just miss the handlebar switch. The switch plugs into the circuit board on the bottom of the headlight using the 8-pin plug (the only unused 8-pin one on the circuit board) Step 4: Behind the gas tank and in front of the air box is a small rectangular hole in the frame. You will be feeding two lines with the plug ends first down through this hole. They must be fed one line at a time and you may need to use needle nose pliers to grab them and help pull them through. The lines you want to feed through this hole are the power line with two-pin molex plug and the line for the taillight with the six-pin plug. Route these wires all the way to the headlight assembly along the left side of the bike on the bottom of the gas tank frame tube. In this step we will connect the power line only. With the handlebars turned all the way to the right, plug the power wire into the back of the headlight assembly making sure to leave some extra wire so you can turn the handlebars both ways without tugging on the wires. The other end of the power line has battery terminal loops. The positive has an in-line fuse and the other black wire is the negative. Connect these to the battery.

Yamaha WR motorcycle ProEFX 12V Hot Start Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 06-01-2012

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1. Remove seat, tank and shrouds. Remove existing hot start lever, cable and valve from the carburetor. 2. Tip: Clean all dirt from hot start bore and mating surfaces on the carburetor body with gas and a q-tip. 3. Tip: Use a small amount of Teflon tape (one wrap) on the threads of the aluminum mounting nut to ensure a water tight seal. 4. Install the Pro EFX hot start valve in the hot start bore (as shown in picture), with return spring, impact washer and delrin plunger in place. • Tip: Installation of the solenoid valve may require temporary rotation of the carburetor away from the top engine mount bracket. • Install with the solenoid valve assembly disconnected from wiring harness. • Screw in by hand and finish tightening with needle nose pliers. Do not over-tighten. Solenoid valve assembly: 5. Mount activation switch on preferred handle bar location. Pictured on clutch side, in place of the stock kill switch.
6. Route wiring harness around steering column and down frame backbone. Insert battery leads through slot in rubber protective boot. (follow existing wiring to battery) 7. Connect positive (red) and negative (black) leads to motorcycle battery. 8. Connect male and female terminals to wiring harness on previously installed solenoid valve assembly. 9. Depress activation button and listen for valve actuation. Plunger should freely “snap” between open and closed position in hot start bore, as activation button is depressed and released. If you don’t hear the valve “snap” open and closed, follow the trouble shooting guidelines or call /email for support. 10. Maintenance: Periodically ensure proper tightness of solenoid valve in carburetor body as part of standard motorcycle maintenance. Keep the battery terminal connections free from corrosion.

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Motorcycle Hand Warmer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Disconnect the Positive (+) terminal from the battery. 2. Remove the existing grip from the Clutch side. Removing the grip may require blowing compressed air in the end between the grip and the bar, injecting brake cleaner fluid, or cutting it off. 3. Clean the handlebar where the grip was removed with alcohol or a solvent to remove all residue and dry with a clean cloth. 4. Determine where the Clutch side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Clutch” and place it on the handlebar approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 9:00 o’clock or they can be positioned on the bottom for appearance. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the handlebar with the wires toward the headlight. 5. Apply a high temperature adhesive (such as JB Weld) to the inside of the Clutch side grip. Install the grips over the heaters and let the adhesive cure as instructed by the adhesive manufacturer. 6. The Throttle side heater is installed on the throttle sleeve under the rubber cover. Remove the rubber cover that is installed over the throttle sleeve so the Throttle side heater can be applied. Some of the throttle sleeves have ribs which need to be cut or ground off so the heater can make full contact with the sleeve surface or it will over heat in the void areas. 7. Determine where the throttle side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Throttle” and place it on the throttle sleeve approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 3:00 o’clock with a loop to allow for the twisting motion of the throttle. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the throttle sleeve with the wires toward the headlight. 8. Apply a thin coat of adhesive (such as J.B. Weld) to the surface of heater only and reroll the rubber hand grip over the entire throttle sleeve. Wipe off any excessive adhesive that may have rolled out

Sherco Engine Teardown and Assembly Manual/ Engine Removal and Case Splitting

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap /slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench ) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assemblyout of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase.

YAMAHA V-STAR 650/ 1100 CLASSIC F ATS/ SLIMS MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Cover gas tank and front fender with towels to avoid damage during installation. 2. Install the two mounting plates onto the windshield, using the bottom and third bolt up. Leave the nylon washers off. The small tab goes to the bottom, big one at the top. (see Figure 1) Tabs face out away from the headlight when installed correctly. 3. Remove the headlight lens and chrome Turn Signal Bar cover and set them in a safe place. (see figure 2) 4. Remove the (3) socket head cap screws that hold the Headlight housing and let it rest carefully so that it does not fall. 5. Remove the turn signal bar by extracting the two socket head cap screws and let it dangle. (see figure 2) 6. Loosely install the throttle-side Bracket and Headlight using one of the (3) new longer 6mm x 30mm socket head cap screws. The nylon washer goes in between Headlight Housing and Headlight Bracket. (see figure 3) Install one of the (2) new 8mm x 45mm SS flat head screw and spacer in the lower hole to mount the turn signal bar. Insert the bolt in this order: bolt – windshield bracket – spacer – turn signal bar, and loosely tighten . (see Figure 3) Repeat these steps for the Clutch side. (See figure 4 for optional Cobra Light Bar installation, or to move Turn Signals forward to mount Lowers closer to the windshield.) 7. Once both windshield brackets are in place and all the new bolts are in place, Tighten all bolts. Re-install the chrome Turn Signal Bar cover. (Leave the chrome cover off if you use the alternate installation for Light Bar or Lowers). Re-Install the Headlight lens. 8. Loosen the (4) anchor bolts on the side of the windshield brackets. Slip the windshield mounting plates onto the brackets starting with the upper slot first then slip the bottom slot in. Adjust height, angle and tighten all bolts. This is a quick change kit. ALWAYS tighten all mounting bolts after removing or installing the windshield

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Vespa Primavera 125 Service Manual

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 28-10-2010

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Clutch control (lever) and gear change (twist grip) – 2. Front brake lever – 3. Throttle twist grip – 4. Main switch unit – 5. Front brake shoes – 6. Rear brake pedal – 7. Kickstarter – 8. Gear selector and gear control adjusting screws – 9. Rear brake shoes – 10. Clutch – 11. Carburettor and air cleaner – 12. Choke control – 13. Fuel tap – 14. Lever securing dual seat – 15. Lever for removing engine flap. Fig. 2 – Installation of controls and transmissions PERFORMANCE AND SPECIFICATIONS Consumption (accord to CUNA Standard) 2 It/100 Km. (118 mls/U.S. gal.; 142 mls/imp. gal.), gasoline -oil mixture i. e. 2% oil. Max. speed (CUNA Standards) 85 Km/h 52.8 mph.). Carrying capacity 2 persons and 10 Kg. (22 lbs) of luggage. Range 280 Km ( 174 mls) Max fuel capacity: 5.6 It. (1.48 U.S. galls or 1.23 imp., galls ( incl. 1 It. – 0,26 U.S. galls or 0.21 imp. galls – of reserve). Wheel base 1180 mm (46″.5 ) Handlebar width 670 mm (26″.4 ) Total length 1665 mm (65″.6 ) Max height 1015 mm (40″.0 ) Min. ground clearance 225 mm ( 8″.86) Turning radius 1650 mm (64″.96) Total dry weight 73 Kg. ( 160 Ibs) ENGINE Single horizontal cylinder two stroke rotary distribution : i.e., carburated mixture is regulated by the crankshaft rotation. Displacement 121.17 cc. – 7.39 cu. in. Bore 55 mm – 2″.16. Stroke 51 mm – 2″.01. Compression ratio: 1 :8.2. Outer H. T. coil ignition. Spark advance 250 ± 1 ° before T. D. C. Sparking plug Bosch W 240 T 1 ; Champion L 86; AC 42 F; Marelli CW 240 N.
1. Steering column and front suspension – 2. Engine – 3. Crankcase clutch side with swinging arm pivoted to frame – 4. Rear suspension spring and hydraulic damper assy. – 5. Screw securing carburettor – 6. Bolt securing damper of rear suspension – 7. Bolt securing engine

GL 1800 led fairing lights INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

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steP 1 Read and understand all steps in the instructions before starting the installation. Park the motorcycle on a hard, level surface and turn off the ignition. ATTENTION! A factory service manual may be helpful in performing this installation. Do not attempt to perform this installation if you are not confident in your ability to complete all of the steps in the procedure; consult a trained technician. steP 2 Remove the side cover on the clutch side as shown in PIC. 1, by gently pulling on it to release the bosses securing the cover. steP 3 Carefully remove the clutch side fairing-molding piece shown in PIC.2 starting at the bottom of the molding; pulling out to disengage the tabs, working your way up the piece. steP 4 Open the clutch side fairing pocket lid, and remove the four trim clips by pushing in on the center pins, and then pulling the clips out. Set the trim clips aside, as they will be used to reinstall the fairing pocket. (PIC.3) steP 5 Remove the fairing pocket by pulling it straight up and out. steP 6 Remove the rubber grommet from the bottom of the fairing pocket and set aside for now. (See PIC.3.) steP 7 Remove the three bolts from the front fairing as shown in PIC.4; set them aside to reinstall later. steP 8 Remove/disconnect the inline fuse on the power wire (red) and insert through the hole in the bottom of the fairing pocket, so that the controller switch will be located in the fairing pocket. steP 9 Carefully insert the remaining wires one at a time, from the control switch through the hole in the bottom of the fairing pocket.

Honda Shadow Aero 750 Kuryakyn Grips Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Pull grip and chrome grommet off of throttle sleeve. (Here is the pic of doing the same thing on the clutch side.) Here is what you will be left with (I temporarily glued the threaded nipple back on the throttle sleeve for illustration…again, it will NOT be needed.)
Step 4: Clean off old glue with denatured alcohol. Note that an old pair of under shorts serves as an EGGSELENT rag for this use! Step 5: Remove grip from clutch side. End cap simply pulls straight off, split rubber OEM grip and pull it off, taking the chrome grommet on the end with it. With enough brute force, you can simply pull the end cap off and FORCE the grip off, but it is MUCH easier if you split it.