HONDA AERO 750 CRUZER EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL And INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 18-11-2011

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Install mounting bracket (stamped 363-P) in the original muffler mounting position, using two 10mm bolts and
one 10mm nut. (supplied)(Refer to figure 2). 2. Mark outside surface of front and rear heat shields with location of mounting clips that are welded to the inside.(Refer to figure 3).Place each heat shield on a non-abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. Position each head pipe/muffler over its respective heat shield. (Refer to figure 4).
3. Feed tail end of each hose clamp through each mounting clip welded to back side of front and rear heat shields. Take note of clamp hex screw head direction. (Clamp head direction is critical for adjustment when system is installed on bike.) Wrap each clamp around back side of head pipe threading tail end into clamp head. (Refer to figure 3 & 4).
4. Install front head pipe/muffler using stock flange nuts. Slide dog bone shaped nutplate (supplied) inside
bracket welded to backside of muffler. Attach muffler to mounting bracket 363-P using (supplied) 5/16” flange
bolts engaging dog bone nutplate. Leave head pipe/muffler assembly loose at this time (Refer to figure 4). Repeat this step with the rear head pipe.5. Align mufflers so they are parallel when viewing from right side of the motorcycle. Tighten 5/16” flange bolts securing upper and lower muffler positions.. Tighten cylinder exhaust port flange nuts securing head pipes to cylinder heads. 7. Adjust heat shields so they meet front of muffler taper. (Refer to figure 6). Tighten all hose clamps securing heat shield locations. NOTE: Heat shields should cover muffler/head pipe weld joint.

HARLEY DAVIDSON EFI INTAKE MANIFOLD COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-04-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove screw (A) that holds the air cleaner cover (B) and seal (C). 2. Remove three T27 TORX® screws (D) to release the cover bracket (E) from the filter element (F). 3. Remove the filter element, pulling the two breather tubes (G) from hole on the inboard side of element. 4. Remove the two breather tubes (G) from the fittings on the two cylinder head breather bolts (I). 5. Remove the two breather bolts (I) and O-ring seals (K) from the air cleaner backplate (J) with a 7/16 inch deepwell socket. 6. Remove the backplate and gasket (H) from the injection module. 7. Aligning the flat edge of a new cover gasket (2) with the backplate molded tab, install a gasket (2), chrome cover (1) and second gasket, in order, on the air cleaner back- plate. 8. Install the breather bolts through the air cleaner backplate. Re-install O-ring seals onto each breather bolt. Install a washer (3) from the kit on each breather bolt. Apply Loctite 243 to the breather bolts and align holes in the backplate with the holes in the cylinder heads and install the breather bolts. Use a 7/16 inch deepwell socket and alternately tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 in-lbs (13.6-16.3 Nm) . 9. Slide gasket over the sleeve on the inboard side of filter element. 10. Install breather tubes about 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) into holes on inboard side of filter element. 11. Install breather tubes onto fittings of two cylinder head breather bolts. NOTE Air cleaner mounting without installation of the breather tubes allows crankcase vapors to be vented into atmosphere in violation of legal emissions standards. 12. Place the filter element onto backplate, with the flat side down, so that the hole on the inboard side of element fits over the molded boss in the backplate. 13. Align holes in cover bracket with those in filter element and start three screws. Stamp on cover bracket points downwards. Use a T27 TORX drive head, alternately tighten screws to 20-40 in-lbs (2.3-4.5 Nm) . 14. Make sure that the rubber seal is proper seated around perimeter of air cleaner cover and place cover on back- plate. 15. Fit the air cleaner cover onto backplate. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of air cleaner cover screw. Install screw through cover and tighten to 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CRUISE CONTROL KIT FOR FLHR/I AND FLHRS/I MODELS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove seat, left saddlebag, left side cover and air cleaner assembly following instructions in applicable Service Manual. 2. Review the CRUISE CONTROL-ULTRA MODELS section in the applicable Service Manual before attempting to install this kit. Install Cruise Control Module To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove bat- tery. 1 is04799 1. Cruise control module mounting hole (3) Figure 1. Battery Box (Right Side View) 2. See Figure 1. In battery box, identify the location of the three mounting holes (1) (on left side of panel) for mounting the cruise control module. 3. See Figure 10. Obtain the cruise control module (1) with cruise cable attached and three grommets (5) from kit. Install the grommets on studs of cruise control module with small diameters outward. 4. See Figure 2. While holding cruise control assembly in place near its mounting location, feed the cruise control cable through the hole in frame crossmember plate and route under rear spark plug wire staying on inner side of fuel line components. Carefully curve cable toward the right and continue routing up under the fuel tank and over the top of the engine stabilizer bracket, then down between cylinder heads. Leave in place temporarily. 5. See Figure 10 and obtain a harness retainer (4) from kit and secure the cruise cable to crossmember plate with barb as shown. On California models, remove the EVAP hose from cable clip and secure hose with one of the cable strap (8)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER® ACCESSORY SLIP-ON MUFFLER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect negative (-) battery cable. Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 2. Remove mufflers using appropriate Service Manual instructions. 3. Discard gaskets and mufflers. 4. Install new gaskets on mufflers. 5. Slip muffler clamps on mufflers. 6. Loosely attach mufflers to the interconnect tube using existing screws and washers. 7. Position the ends of the front and rear exhaust pipes into front and rear cylinder heads and align exhaust system while tightening all nuts and bolts; begin at the cylinder head exhaust ports and work back toward the mufflers. a. Finger tighten the upper nuts to the mounting studs. b. Tighten the lower nut to 9-18 in-lbs (1.0-2.1 Nm) . c. Tighten the upper nut to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm) . d. Tighten the lower nut to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm) . 8. Tighten the acorn nut on the rear exhaust pipe support clamp to 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm) . 9. Tighten muffler clamps to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81.3 Nm) . 10. Tighten screws and washers to 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm)

HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER MUFFLER SLIP-ON KITS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-02-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect negative (-) battery cable. 2. Remove mufflers using appropriate service manual instructions. 3. Discard gaskets and mufflers. 4. Install new gaskets on mufflers. 5. Slip muffler clamps on mufflers. 6. Loosely attach mufflers to the interconnect tube using existing screws and washers. 7. Position the ends of the front and rear exhaust pipes into front and rear cylinder heads and align exhaust system while tightening all nuts and bolts, beginning at the cylinder head exhaust ports and work back toward the mufflers. a. Finger tighten the upper nuts to the mounting studs. b. Tighten the lower nut to 9-18 in-lbs (1.0-2.1 Nm) . c. Tighten the upper nut to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm) . d. Tighten the lower nut to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm) . 8. Tighten the acorn nut on the rear exhaust pipe support clamp to 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm) . 9. Tighten muffler clamps to 45-60 ft-lbs (61.0-81.3 Nm) . 10. Tighten screws and washers to 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm) . 11. Connect negative (-) battery cable.

HARLEY DAVIDSON EFI SCREAMIN' EAGLE BIG BORE EFI STAGE 2 KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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INSTALLATION Installation of this kit is divided into six steps: 1. Big-Bore Cylinder and Piston Conversion 2. High Performance Camshafts 3. High Performance Clutch Diaphragm Spring 4. High Performance Air Cleaner 5. Calibrate the ECM 6. Exhaust NOTES This Big-Bore Stage 2 kit is intended for High Performance applications only. This engine-related performance part is legal for sale or use in California on pollution-controlled motor vehicles. Engine-related performance parts are intended for the experienced rider only. -J04173 1 of 5 The air cleaner contained in these kits is designed to perform with these kits only. Any other combination of components is not confirmed to be legal for street use. The Product Information Label contained in this kit is required in the state of California only. This label is required to aid in passing the California Smog Check Program. Place the Product Information Label on the right side of the frame, directly beneath the VIN sticker. Do not place the label on motorcycles other than those specified in the Instruction Sheet. Gaskets provided in the 1690 conversion kit eliminate the need for original head gasket O-rings. For this reason, DO NOT install the Original Equipment (OE) O-rings (Part Number 11273) to the top of cylinder dowels, or severe engine damage may occur. Big-Bore Cylinder and Piston Conversion NOTE Installation of this kit requires removal of the cylinder heads, cylinders and pistons. Refer to Section 3, ENGINE: STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR SERVICE and TOP END OVERHAUL of the applicable Service Manual for instructions. High Performance Camshafts NOTE Installation of this kit requires removal and re-installation of the cam support plate. Refer to Section 3, ENGINE: BOTTOM END Cam Support Plate, Removal and Disassembly/Assembly (Camshaft, Camshaft Bearings) of the applicable Service Manual for instructions. Measuring Piston-to-Valve Clearance After installing non-stock cams, check piston-to-valve clear- ance. 1. Apply 1/8-inch (3 mm) layer of clay to crowns of pistons in areas where valves meet pistons. 2. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and assemble the heads and valve train, and tighten cylinder studs to torque specified. 3. Turn engine through two complete revolutions by hand. 4. Remove heads and measure clay at its thinnest point. NOTE Clay must measure 0.080 inch (2.03 mm) at its thinnest point. If this measurement does not meet minimum thickness, depth of valve notches must be increased. The depth of the notches must not exceed 0.135 inch (3.43 mm). Measuring Valve-to-Valve Clearance NOTE Wait ten minutes before turning the engine after installing push rods. This allows tappets to bleed down and prevents you from bending push rods or valves. 1. Rotate the engine so that both valves of the front cylinder are partially open. Shine a light through the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole to view the valves. Turn engine, if required, to the point where the exhaust evel sensor to the fuel pump with screw (3). Tighten the screw enough to seat the fuel sensor against the mounting tab e. Route fuel level sensor wiring under the fuel hose and connect the fuel level sensor to the low fuel switch connector on the fuel pump module. If necessary use the jumper harness (Figure 4, item 5). f. See Figure 2. Secure the fuel pump wires and con- nectors

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2004 KTM 950 ADVENTURE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-11-2010

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Intake system Fresh air is drawn into the filter box through the intake snorkel 1 , past the carburetors 2 and through the air filter 3 . The cleaned air is conducted to the combustion chamber through the carburetors and intake ports. 1 2 2 3 2-4 Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr . 3.206.016-E Secondary air system The secondary air system supplies fresh air to the emissions in the exhaust port, resulting in the afterburning (oxidation) of the emissions. A line leads from the filter box 1 to the control valve 2 which opens as soon as the throttle valves 3 are opened. The line continues to the reed valves 4 in the cylinder heads which are actuated by the pressure pulsation in the exhaust system. As a result, cleansed fresh air arrives in the exhaust port. The oxygen content in the air and the high exhaust gas temperature cause the emissions to oxidize. If the throttle valves are closed and the engine goes into an overrun condition, the underpressure in the intake port will rise and the control valve will close. This prevents exhaust backfire (combustion of the unburned fuel/air mixture). 1 2 3 3 4 4 4 2-5 Closed thermostat The thermostat is closed if the temperature of the cooling liquid drops below 75°C. The water pump 1 pumps the cooling liquid through the cylinder and cylinder heads 2 and the thermostat 2 . Open thermostat The thermostat 3 opens at 75°C. The water pump 1 pumps the cooling liquid through the cylinder and cylinder heads 2 , the aluminum cooler 4 and the thermostat. The pressure in the cooling system (max. 1.4 bar) is regulated by a valve in the radiator cap 5 . The cooling liquid level in the compensating tank 6 must be between the MIN and MAX marks when the engine is cold. The fan 7 switches on at 102°C.

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SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES Gsxr 600, Gsxr 750, Gsxr 1000 teak the lead

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-11-2010

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The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression. With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5!. But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours. To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives. Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof. In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine.

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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1984-1999 Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines Replacement Cylinder Heads Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-10-2010

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Installation of an S&S Super Stock cylinder head kit is easy and can be performed by any Harley-Davidson®repair shop equipped to do engine overhauls. No special tools other than those used in normal overhaul repair work are required. Read instructions thoroughly before starting work. When they are completely understood proceed with installation. 1. Remove Components and Inspect Parts Follow procedures outlined in appropriate Harley-Davidson® service manual to prepare motorcycle for top end service. NOTE: Disconnect batteryand drain all gasoline from gas tanks beforedoing any work. Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions and toxic when breathed. Do not smoke. Perform installation in a well ventilated area away from open flames or sparks. A. Remove gas tanks and all other parts required to perform top end service. B. Remove carburetor, rocker covers, pushrods and pushrod tube assemblies, cylinder heads and cylinders. Also remove piston rings from piston. Do not remove pistons. NOTE: Be careful not to introduce any dirt or other foreign material into crankcase during disassembly of engine. Metal filings, dirtand any other foreign contamination in engine may cause premature wear and/or irreversible damage to bearings and other internal engine components. C. Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts that are to be reused. Any parts that show signs of wear or damage should be replaced. WARNING CAUTION 2. Check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result isthat the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as blue printing, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore.