Kawasaki ZX-14 Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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1) Tools needed: 36mm socket / 32mm socket / 5mm Allen wrench / cordless drill / tap handle / hammer / razor blade. 2) The frame bracket serves as the drilling guide and we provide the transfer punch, tap, drill and step by step instructions for a relatively easy installation. However, do not attempt this installation unless you are skilled enough and confident that you can drill and tap (2) holes in your frame. We’ve also provided a picture of what it will look like should you decide to sell this bike later on, with your stabilizer removed. Follow these guidelines and you’ll find it’s quite easy. 3) Some photos may not be your exact bike but depict the idea of what needs to be done. 4) It is important to use Blue Loc-tite on all fasteners if you expect them to stay tight. 5) Cover the gas tank area with something substantial to protect the paint, in case of a slip. An old sweatshirt works well. It’s cheap insurance to actually just remove the tank shroud to avoid an accident. 6) Remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight. Make a note of how tight it is. 7) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount) over the steering stem allowing it to match the exact shape of the triple clamp, with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp. (See photo). 8) Install the new 32mm aluminum nut supplied in the kit (without any washer) with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 65ft. lbs. or more. (Check your manual for the recommended torque setting of this nut). 9) There is a slight amount of play in the “register” that fits over the back of the triple clamp to allow for variations in castings from the factory. If the TC mount tries to spin clockwise during tightening, which can misalign the stabilizer ever so slightly, you can slide something thin, like the edge of a razor blade, between the register and the back of the triple clamp to space it “just right” for alignment during tightening (see photo). Once it’s tight the razor blade will be stuck, so gently turn the 32mm socket as though you were going to loosen the nut but don’t actually loosen it. It will relieve enough pressure to allow the razor blade to come out. Double check your alignment again. 10) Remove the front tank mounting Allen bolt. Retain the stock washer that’s part of the rubber grommet. 11) Temporarily install the frame bracket and be sure the outer feet are touching or are very close to the frame. On rare occasions, the casting on the head tube prevents the feet from making contact. On these rare occasions you may have to slightly file the inner side of those feet until the bracket sits down flush. Not sure on this one? Call us. (note: 2007-on bikes have a larger casting area and early kits will not fit these late model bikes. All current kits now fit 2006-on)

HARLEY DAVIDSON AXLE CAP NUT KIT (CHROME) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Secure the front wheel of the motorcycle. 2. Remove one hex nut, lockwasher and flat washer attaching the axle holder to the right-side fork damper tube. 3. Assemble a chrome flat washer, split lockwasher and cap nut from the kit to the fork damper stud, but do not fully tighten at this time. 4. Repeat with the remaining nut, lockwasher and flat washer on the other stud. 5. For 2000 and later models: See Figure 1. Insert a 7/16 inch drill bit (3) into the hole in the front axle (2). Pull the right-side fork leg (1) so that it just contacts the drill bit. 1 4 2 3 is04467 1. Fork leg 2. Front axle 3. Drill bit 4. Chrome cap nut, lockwasher and flat washer (2) Figure 1. Align the Front Wheel 6. Tighten the new chrome cap nuts (4) to 9-13 ft-lbs (12-18 Nm)

BMW K-SERIES (INCLUDING PARALEVER) SHOCK MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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1. The shock mounts with the hose towards the rear of the machine, with the shock body at the top and the shaft pointing downward. 2. Take the inside half of the bushing set on the shock eye (at the shaft end) and place it on the mounting post on the drive hub. 3. Insert the body eye into the mounting channel on the frame. In some cases the channel may have to be spread slightly to fit the bushing set. NOTE; Do not try to install the shock with only half of the bushings, as this will lead to poor performance and premature seal leakage. For the same reasons, do not grind or file the inner or outer edges of the bushings to make them narrower. The amount of “float” in the bushing set is necessary to ensure smooth operation of the damper assembly. 4. Slide the shaft end of the shock over the mounting post. If it does not easily align with the bushing in place, the eye (and shaft and spring, etc.) can be rotated to fit. 5. Install the outer shock eye bushing and follow with the washer and nut. Install the upper shock mounting bolt and nut finger tight. 6. Position the reservoir under the frame rail below the seat. It will fit neatly between– and inside– of the stock luggage rack mounts. Let the reservoir dangle and put the hose clamps loosely in position over the frame tube. NOTE: The reservoir should be mounted so that the hose has a slight curve in it. This will allow a certain amount of movement at the shock body without putting pressure on the hose fittings at the shock. 6. Position the reservoir inside the hose clamps with the rubber stand-off pads between the reservoir and the frame. The hose clamps should be fitted on either side of the Allen bolt that attaches the tail section to the frame. They can placed at any point along the O.D. of the reservoir, but about 1/2″ from each end is typical. The stand-off pads should be at the same location on the reservoir as the clamps. Tighten the clamps snugly. Do not over-tighten the clamps, as this can cause them to break during temperature extremes. 7. Sparingly apply a thread locking compound to the threads on the shock mounting fasteners and tighten them to 28 to 32 lbs/ft. Over-tightening the fasteners can damage the bushings and cause

BMW F 650 CS Rear belt wheel cracks Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Relieve the tension of the toothed belt and lift the belt off the belt wheel (refer to F 650CS Repair Manual, 00.57). 2) Remove 6 screws (see arrow in photo at right). 3) Remove the rear belt wheel. 4) Clean and degrease the tapered bores and the threads of the mounting screws 5) Carefully place the new belt wheel in position on the damper, coat the screw threads with Loctite 243 and hand tighten the securing screws. 6) Tighten the securing screws to the specified torque maintaining a diagonally opposite tightening sequence throughout (Torque to 28 NM, curing time 12 hours). 7) Measure the vertical runout of the belt wheel (refer to F 650 CS Repair Manual, 33.15). 8) Install and adjust the rear drive belt (refer to F 650 CS Repair Manual 00.57 – 00.58) 2.1 Removal of the front belt wheel Remove the front belt wheel in accordance with the instructions detailed in the F 650 CS Repair Manual. Remove the securing screw of the activated charcoal filter and let the filter canister hang by one side by the hoses, or remove it and lay it aside. Clean the splines and threads of the main shaft in order to remove all traces of Loctite. If necessary, remove corrosion from the main shaft spline (use only a brass bristle brush). 2.2 Visual inspection Check the splines of the main shaft for damage. Replace the main shaft if the splines are damaged (broken, chipped, bent or damaged teeth). Refer to the F 650 CS Repair Manual for this procedure.

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1996-2003 KAWASAKI ZX7R INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) It is mandatory to use blue Loc-tite on all bolts. We promise they will come loose if you don’t. 2) Remove the large nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. Install the new nut that we provide which has HEX drive facing UP. You will NOT use the stock washer. 3) Torque the new nut to your factory recommended setting as they vary. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the new triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (the small knub) indexing into the matching groove on the top, back of your stock triple clamp. The knub insures the mount cannot spin should the damper try to loosen the main nut. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the Scotts triple clamp nut. The groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the set screws are tightened, it will suck the TC mount down against your triple clamp. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 7) Using blue loc-tite on the setscrews, run them all in against the nut equally and then proceed to tighten each one making your way around until they are all equally tight. They should be checked after the first ride as normally they will settle into the groove in the nut and require tightening. 8) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 9) Remove the two, stock-front tank retaining bolts. You will replace these with longer ones in the kit. 10) Install the new “frame bracket tower”. There is a front and back to this part, note the picture! 11) Install the longer tank bolts supplied, through our frame bracket and into your tank mounting holes. 12) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole. It is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin and hole portion greased lightly. 13) Install the damper using the (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 14) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit is a good starting point, usually 8 clicks out on the base valve. 15) The base valve controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted

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