Honda, Polaris (2000 and older) ATV Thumb Warmer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-12-2011

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Hi/Low Switch Installation Choose a location for the switch, which is convenient and has sufficient rear clearance for the electrical connections and is within 18″ of a voltage-controlled wire (a wire in the lighting circuit). Drill a 1/2″ (13mm) hole and install the switch from the back. Leave the strain relief nut on the switch. On the front install the Hi/Low indicator tab and secure the switch and tab using the metal nut. The amount of switch barrel protruding can be adjusted by moving the strain relief nut. Wire Routing and Connections Route the electric cord along the handlebar to switchmarea and secure with supplied tie wraps, electrical tape, or both. Cut and strip to proper length. Attach a ground wire of sufficient length to go from the red wire to a good ground. WARNING: Lead wire slack in the area of the throttle must be neither excessive nor tight. Ensure no binding occurs when the throttle is open fully.,Soldering connections is the most durable method, but the following will provide years of service. Attach the 1/4″ female slip-on connectors to the white and blue wires and #10 ring terminal to warmer leads as shown in Figure 2. (A crimping tool works best, but a Vise Grips or pliers will work). Figure 2. Switch Connections (Option B) Connect the single yellow or red wire to a regulated (lighting) circuit using Option A (ATV has a switch in a lighting circuit with a 1/4″ tab) or Option B: Option B: Locate a power wire (usually yellow) leading to a headlight, taillight, or dash light (Figure 2). Using the red tap connector, place this power wire into the continuous channel and insert the red wire (do not strip insulation) completely to stop in the second channel. Make the connection by squeezing (w/pliers) the metal contact until flush with the top of the connector. Close the hinged cover until latched. Complete connections to switch and ground circuit.

2003 Honda ST1300/A Wire Harness Inspection and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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REPAIR PROCEDURE Note: While completing this procedure DO NOT disconnect the 2-pin connector unless repair of the wire harness is required. 1. If not previously done, complete the ST1300/A #1 Service Bulletin before starting this procedure. 2. Remove the seats, left saddlebag, and left side panel by following the instructions in section 2 of the Service /l/Ianua/on pages 2-5 and 2-6. 3. Secure the centerstand assist handle out of the way. 4. Remove the rear shock adjuster support bar top bolt and move the bar out of the way. 5. Locate the ignition cord leading to the 2P connector and check the two black and white wires for chafing. |GNlTl6N con BLACK AND WHITE WIRES Chafing V I may OOCUF _ in this area 2-PIN CONNECTOR 2of6 – If the insulation is still intact and copper wire is not showing, proceed to the Preventative Measure section of this bulletin. – lf copper wire is showig, wrap the exposed area of the wire with a good quality electrical tape and proceed to the Preventative Mea- sure section of this bulletin. Preventative Measure: 1. Place the length of PVC split tubing around the ignition cord, butting up against the con- nector. Rotate the split toward the inside of the motorcycle. 2. Use good quality electrical tape to cinch the end of the PVC split tubing together (at the end that is touching the 2-pin connector), together. Secure the PVC split tubing to the ignition cord at the other end with electrical tape. 3. Secure the ignition cord and wire harness cord to the rear sub-frame with a commer- cially available wire band. The 2-pin connector should be routed behind and to the rear of where the rear shock adjuster support bar is located. ~! IR ARNESS C R COR W EH O D

2002-2007 HONDA VFR 800 WITH ABS GALFER BRAKE LINE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Prep the motorcycle for this job A. Park motorcycle on the center stand in a well-lit shop (Fig.A) B. Note: it is not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel tank and body panels. However, brake fluid is VERY CORROSIVE TO PAINT. We decided to be safe (Fig. B) and removed the lower fairing left and right rear sides, fuel tank, front fender, seat, and black A B plastic inner fairing front parts, battery cover, and rear master cylinder cover according to the owner’s manual. This also gives better access to the fittings. (Fig C) C. After safely storing the body panels and fuel tank, remove wind shield, (brake fluid, even a drop, will permanently mark any clear plastic), cover the dash and all gauges with a towel. II. Draining the brake fluid from the systems. A. A copy of the factory instructions has been included with this kit on how to properly and safely drain, fill and bleed the brake fluid from the brake systems. Follow the directions closely and remove the fluid according to the instructions. Dispose of the old fluid properly—DO NOT REUSE. B. If you purchased the clutch line, then perform the following steps (Fig D): In the bag marked Clutch Line: remove the left side lower body panels. Remove vehicle speed sensor, and remove the coolant C D tank. Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling from. 4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch. III. Removing the factory front brake hoses and calipers – Front A. With the fluid drained and disposed of properly, loosen the bolts that hold the right caliper to the right fork leg (Fig E). Also remove the two 8mm bolts from the ABS front wheel speed sensor. Loosen all of the hose mounting blocks on the front forks on both sides; also loosen the blocks for the crossover pipe (Fig F) between the fork legs. Also loosen the frame pipe mounts and the mount for the front lever line that is also E attached to the right side of the frame. Loosen the left caliper mounting bolts (Fig G). B. Remove the calipers and remove the hose mounts under the lower triple tree. Remove the hard pipes from both the left and right hard pipe to soft line frame mounts on the frame (Fig. H). On the front ABS modulator remove the short soft line that is connected to the mount block. (Fig I.a. & I.b.) C. Carefully remove the

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ULTIMA ELECTRONIC WIRING SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 03-03-2011

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1. Find a mounting location for control box. The box is designed to be mounted to the top frame rail between split tanks, but can be mounted in a wide variety of places. If possible the box should be fastened using small screws or rivets but can be wire tied in place. Make sure the location is away from moving parts and heat sources. 2. Pre-fit harness to bike. Attach rear harness to control box. Each wire is color coded and labeled. Route individual wires to their destinations and do not cut to length. Keep wires in a bunch until they need to branch off. Use electrical tape to hold main wire bunch wherever individual or multiple wires branch off. Keep wires away from sharp edges or pinch points and leave extra wire for suspension movement. Repeat this for front and right/left harnesses. All wires not being used should be cut off at connector or secured to prevent shorts. When all wires are routed, cut excess length from ends leaving a couple extra inches for final fitment. 3 Remove pre-fitted harness from bike to install heat shrink tubing. Start at main connector and cut tubing approximately 1 inch past first branch. This will allow the next piece of tubing to slide into the first. Repeat this along entire harness. After encasing harness with heat shrink, use a heat gun to shrink tubing starting at main connectors. Be careful to not burn through the tubing with too much heat. Refit the harness to the bike, attaching to frame where necessary. Cut the ends of harness to length and strip the ends. Attach the terminals to the wire ends and use heat gun to shrink ends. Attach terminals to their destinations. 4. The diagnostic LED’s are used to locate shorts or overloads. Pinched or bare wires, faulty components or too much current draw usually causes these. If an LED is on, turn off the bike, locate and correct the problem, then turn the bike back on. The bike must be turned off to reset the protection circuit. If no LED’s are lit, but turn signals and dash lights do not work properly, make sure the control box main ground has a good connection to the chassis ground. 5. The control box operates the turn signals as listed: First command – flash 10 times then cancel Second command on same side – cancel Second command opposite side – cancel current sequence, flash 10 times then cancel Both sides at same time – hazard, all signals flash Brake switch – flash rear signals three times then stay on for 30 seconds

HONDA GL-1500 Trailer Wire Harness with Relay INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-02-2011

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Seat: (if optional accessory wire is to be used) After removing trunk pan, run a stiff piece of wire from the bottom of the left saddlebag frame behind the rear tire up until it comes out under the trunk. Then hook open end of wire harness to fish wire and tape with electrical tape. Pull the harness back down to the bottom of the saddlebag frame. Route the long part of harness wire around the back of the license plate light to the right side 6-pin vertical connector just in front of tail light assembly. Unplug the stock connector and plug wire harness in between the stock plugs. Do the same for the left side with the short side of the Y on the harness. Now pull the slack down from the bottom of the harness and tuck all of the wires under the frames tubes so that the pan can be reinstalled without any problems. You can now hook up the loose ends of the harness to any style connector to match your trailer connector using the following color codes: GREEN GROUND ORANGE- LEFT TURN YELLOW- BRAKE BLUE- RIGHT TURN BROWN- TAIL RED POWER . Note : This accessory is an electronic isolated trailer wire harness. It should be installed by a qualified mechanic . 1. Disconnect the negative from the battery. 2. Install the harness. 3. When connecting to the trailer make sure all wires are used for the proper use and are waterproof. Make sure there are not exposed wires. Consult the trailer manufacturer for proper wiring. 4. Reconnect the battery negative. Double check the functions

HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSC BRACKET FOR BILLET HEADLAMP SHELL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-01-2011

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REMOVAL VRSCA Models 1. Remove windshield (if equipped). Refer to appropriate Instruction Sheet for procedures. 2. Remove right side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI- FUSE in Service Manual. 3. See Figure 1. Disconnect headlamp connector (1) from vehicle wire harness. 4. Remove two screws (2), headlamp mounting bracket (3), and headlamp assembly (4) from upper bracket. 2 3 4 5 1 is03046 1. Connector 2. Screw (2) 3. Bracket 4. Headlamp assembly 5. Screw (2) Figure 1. VRSCA Headlamp Assembly VRSCB Models 1. Remove windshield (if equipped). Refer to appropriate Instruction Sheet for procedures. 2. Remove right side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI- FUSE in Service Manual. 3. See Figure 2. Disconnect headlamp connector (1) from vehicle wire harness. 4. Remove two screws (2), headlamp assembly (3), and headlamp mounting bracket (4) from upper bracket. 5. Remove nut (5), screw (6), and trim ring (7) from head- lamp. 6. Remove lens assembly (8) from headlamp shell (9). Save lens assembly for Billet Headlamp Shell Kit 67704-03 installation INSTALLATION 2004-Earlier VRSCA and VRSCB Models 1. Assemble Chrome Billet Headlamp Shell Kit (67704-03). Refer to Instruction Sheet-J03018. NOTES VRSCA models use Headlamp 68297-05, while VRSCB models use original equipment lens assembly (including gasket and boot). Adapter ring from kit (Figure 6, Item 1) will be used to install billet headlamp assembly on Instruction Sheet-J03018. 2. See Figure 3. Cut the two connectors (1) from existing headlamp wire harness (2). Be sure to cut the wires as close to the back of the connector as possible. 3. See Figure 6. Route new wire harness (2) through the hole in bottom of the billet headlamp shell (A). NOTE Only one 16 AWG wire will fit into pin terminals included in kit. Both black wires (ground) can be joined together, then connected to a single wire, if desired. 4. Tape end of one black wire with electrical tape and secure it to wire harness. 5. See Figure 3 and Figure 6. Install terminal pin (3) and socket housing (4) onto new wire harness (Figure 6, Item 2). Refer to MULTILOCK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS in Service Manual for installing socket/pin terminals. 3 4 1 2 is03025 1. Connector (2) 2. Wire harness 3. Terminal pin (4) 4. Socket housing Figure 3. 2004-Earlier VRSCA and VRSCB Headlamp Wire Harness 2005-Later VRSCA and VRSCB Models 1. Assemble Chrome Billet Headlamp Shell Kit (67704-03). Refer to Instruction Sheet-J03018. NOTES VRSCA models use Headlamp 68297-05, while VRSCB models use original equipment lens assembly (including gasket and boot). Adapter ring from kit (Figure 6, Item 1) will be used to install billet headlamp assembly on Instruction Sheet-J03018. 2. Disconnect and discard existing wire harness. 3. See Figure 6. Connect new wire harness (2) to billet headlamp shell (A). 4. Route wire harness (2) through hole in bottom of billet headlamp shell (A) before installing socket housing (4) provided in kit

HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

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Honda Valkyrie Air Horns Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-12-2010

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Horns: Remove the stock horn by unplugging the wires and removing the 12mm acorn nut. This will leave an 8mm stud exposed. Notice in the hardware kit there are two brackets supplied. Locate the “L” bracket with a tab welded to it. Place the end with an angle cut close to the hole over the stud and secure with the acorn nut see photo(1) . Bolt the horn set to this bracket using the 5/16 ” x ¾” bolt and lock washer. ( NOTE: When installing with “Baker” air wings use the additional bracket, bolt & nut supplied to move the horns forward to clear the air wings) . Hose and wires: Plug the long hose into “Y” fitting on the horn set, plug the gray cord into original horn wires, and wrap the connections with electrical tape. Route both under fuel tank then back to right side cover go behind the ignition switch and between the frame rails. (A piece of stiff wire pushed from the back of the fuel tank to the front will make this much easier, Tape the wires and hose to this wire and pull back through. ) Wiring: See photo (2) Install white wire on compressor (­) terminal. Install red wire onto the compressor (+) terminal. Push hose onto compressor air fitting. Attach compressor to frame tube as shown with hose barb and mounting bolt tab straddling the frame using the two long cable ties provided. NOTE: Be sure air hose is not pinched or kinked. Attach gray cable wire terminal ends to relay terminals #85 and #86. (see wiring diagram) It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which terminal. Attach red wire to one of the remaining relay terminals. Attach the fuse wire to the remaining terminal of the relay. Remove the 1″ x 3″ black plastic cover from the main fuse holder (see photo 2A) . Attach the opposite end of the fuse to the upper­most screw. Re­install the cover. Attach white ground wire to side cover mount ing stud as shown in photo #2B

BMW R1200GS Dual Function LED Running Lights and Flashing Brake Lights installation instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 08-11-2010

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The flasher is set to flash continuously as long as the brake is applied. To convert to a 5 second flash and then stay solid while the brake is applied, cut the green wire loop on the flasher. Use electrical tape to protect and secure the green wires to the other wires. 2. Remove the rider’s seat. Locate the wire bundle that starts at the rear of the motorcycle. At the most accessible spot carefully remove 3″ to 3½” of protective wire loom. I know, I know…it’s really beautifully done. Cowboy up! Take it off! 3. Mount the flasher in a location that will not crimp wires or interfere with the other bike assemblies. Locate the +12 volt wire ( GRAY wire with BLACK stripe and YELLOW banding) from the brake light Attach the kit RED wire to the brake light positive wire using one of the Posi-Tap connectors in the kit. 4. Locate the Ground wire ( BROWN wire) from the brake light. Attach the kit BLACK wire to the motorcycle ground wire using a Posi-Tap connector. 5. If you have a Fuse Block with ignition switched relay installed, route the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to a fused circuit on the (relay activated) fuse block . 6. If you do not have a Fuse Block installed, find the alarm circuit connector under the seat . The alarm circuit has a rectangular connector and five wires, White with Black stripe; White with Brown stripe; Red with White; Brown with White; and Green with White stripe. Use a Posi-Tap to attach the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to the green wire with white stripe. Pull the wire loom back from the wire. Tap into the wire with the Posi-Tap provided. . 7. If using the Hyper-Lite License Plate Mounting bracket, install it now. OR: Clean the side facing reflectors at the rear of the bike with alcohol. Mount the LED modules vertically on the reflectors so that the LEDs point straight back. Press in place for about 5 seconds. The tape can be used only once! If you goof, new tape is required. 8. Route the BLUE and BROWN wires from the flasher and the LED modules. Trim the Blue and Brown wires to remove any excess wire . Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BLUE wires together. Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BROWN wires together. (see Posi-Twist Connector instructions)

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HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

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