Honda ST1300 Front Panel Kit installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-11-2011

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STEP #1 – Expose the battery by removing the seat & side panels on the rightnside of the bike. See the Honda service manual. If you are not familiar with this procedure, have a trained technician install the kit. STEP #2 – Drill a 18mm hole into the panel shown [A] (11/16” hole saw recommended and is available on our site). This hole must be drilled in
the correct spot on the panel, make sure it is not too far to the left. If the hole is small for the socket open it with emery cloth or file. There is a coil to the left. Do not install the socket yet. There is a raised lip on the back of the panel. Trim this off so the jam nut will contact the back of the panel evenly. STEP #3 – Attach the socket to the panel; use a dab of Silicone on the socket and jam nut. Important: Do NOT use Loctite or over-tighten; the plastic can crack. STEP #4 – Stretch out the wiring harness. Attach the fuse holder to the support bracket located above the battery [E]. Next remove the negative battery connection, followed by the positive battery connection. Slip the red wire under the red battery boot [C]. You may need to trim the red boot to accommodate the added wire. Connect the red wire to the battery posts as follow

HARLEY DAVIDSON ENRICHENER KNOB COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2011

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Additional Parts Required Loctite® 222 (purple) Installation NOTE If there are any rough edges around enrichener knob that prevent enrichener knob cover from sliding in place, remove them using fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth. 1. See Figure 1. Install collet (4) to the enrichener knob (A), the enrichener knob cover (2) and gasket (3) as shown. Apply Loctite 222 (purple) to threads of screw (1). Line up hole in collet with hole in enrichener cover and insert screw. Tighten screw. 1 2 3 A 4 is03857 1. Screw 2. Enrichener Knob Cover 3. Gasket 4. Collet Figure 1. Enrichener Knob Cover Installation

AJS Fork Seal and Top Bush Removal Repair/ Service Procedure

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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For those of you, like me (writes old Tom, of the doughty Bristol Section), who have to dismantle the front forks, and have got to the stage when the seals and bush have to be removed… Here the workshop manual states that a swift jerk or upward movement of the stanchion should shock out the seal and bush. It is more likely that nothing happens! I have always managed to remove the seals and bush by the following method: Obtain one block of wood 3″ x 3″ or 4″ x 3″ and 5″ long. Drill a hole 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” and then saw the wood in half along the centre line of the hole. Glue in two pieces of emery cloth to aid grip on your stanchion. Place into a vice with a dummy tube of the right diameter (same as your fork leg) and leave for the glue to set the emery cloth into place. Then obtain two pieces of hardwood or 1″ ply, 8″ x 6″ and drill 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” hole in centre. Also obtain a piece of hardwood 1ft x 6″ x 1″ and cut to form two wedges as shown in the drawing. To use the withdrawal jig, place the two large blocks over the inner stanchion to butt against the lower stanchion. Now fit the two halves of the split block inner stanchion. Clamp the split blocks in a vice while a colleague tensions the rebound spring. The wedges are now placed between the larger blocks and the lower stanchions, which is heated to aid removal. Drive in the wedges to push the lower stanchion away from the fixed inner stanchion

BMW Airhead Side Braces Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Figure B shows the upper end of the Airhead Side Brace where it attaches to the frame ( NOTE: Leave at least 1/2″ spacing below the bottom edge of the fuel tank ). Figure C shows how the Airhead Side Brace must clear the air inlet tubing Figure D showing how the lower edge (beveled end) fits the frame at the rear of the bike. Figure E shows one of the threaded cones properly welded to the frame, and painted. . Ensure Airhead Side Braces are fully assembled (threaded cones firmly bolted into the braces at both ends). 2. Hold Airhead Side Brace in their proper position (reference Figures A-D) to mark location where front and rear threaded cones will be welded to the frame. NOTE : The lower (rear) end of the Airhead Side Brace is beveled, for reference. NOTE : Make sure that both the left and right Airhead Side Braces are positioned equally. 3. Mark the frame and remove paint in the appropriate areas using emery cloth to prepare the frame surface for welding. NOTE : Measure and mark twice, weld once! 4. Hold assembled Airhead Side Braces in their appropriate positions and tack-weld at the top and bottom. Perform this step for both the top (front) and bottom (rear) ends of the Airhead Side Braces , on both sides of the bike. 5. Using removable tape, mark each Airhead Side Brace as either “left” or “right”, to make sure they are replaced onto the appropriate side of the bike after disassembly. 6. Remove the bolts, and the Airhead Side Braces from the tack-welded, threaded cones. Complete the welding of the threaded cone to the motorcycle frame at all 4 locations. 7. Clean/remove any weld splatter, and paint to protect threaded cone and frame from corrosion (see Figure E). 8. Re-assemble Airhead Side Braces onto threaded cones maintaining original left side/right side orientation. NOTE : The lower (rear) end of the Airhead Side Brace is beveled, for reference. 9. Torque hex bolts to 7 ft/lbs

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