harley davidson oil filter cooler installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-04-2012

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2000 cH ROME 99 – 07 SOFTAIL MODELS #2001 CHROME 99 – 07 DYNA MODELS #2002 CHROME 99 – 07 FLT MODELS, flht, flhr, fltr #2005 black CHROME 99 – 07 SOFTAIL MODELS #2006 BLACK CHROME 99 – 07 DYNA MODELS #2007 black CHROME 99 – 07 FLT MODELS, flht, flhr, fltr #2020 REPLACEMENT OIL FILTER #’S: 2000, 2001, 2002, 2005, 2006, 2007 1. See Figure 1 to verify all Feuling components and the proper mounting bracket for your model 2. Wash, clean and inspect all new Feuling hardware, Including – off-set sandwich oil filter adapter, filter cooler housing and oil lines, use compressed air to blow dry the oil lines, fittings, threads and bolt holes. Use a tap and die if needed to clean threads. (On installation use lubrication on all fasteners and fittings) 3. Refer to the proper service manual for your model motorcycle & engine, for removal of engine oil and spin-on oil filter. Dispose of these items properly. 4. Clean engine case oil filter spigot and sealing surface thoroughly. 5. Install the clean Feuling off set oil filter sandwich adapter; both O-ring and gasket need to be assembled dry. 6. First install the inside half of the off-set oil filter adapter, O-ring side towards engine case filter mount. We recommend using a dab loctite on the 1″ lock nut. (See figure 2) It is recommend to mock up the sandwich adapter before torquing nuts and bolts to obtain desired orientation and proper clearance to engine case and frame rails. 7. Install the fittings and oil lines onto the outer half of sandwich adapter torque fittings to proper specs using thread sealant on the 1/8 NPT threads and engine oil on the -4 AN oil line fittings. 8. Complete installation of sandwich adapter, including the inner gasket. Finger tight the allen head bolts in an alternating sequence on both sides before final torque. Re-Torque the allen head bolts after the first heat cycle after installation and during every oil change.

Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

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Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

Honda / Acura Crank Shaft Seal Kit installation

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-11-2011

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Due to the close proximity of transversely mounted engines to the shock tower, this essential tool is crucial for the
proper installation of Cam Shaft Oil Seals. Comes equipped with an exclusive expansion guide ensuring damage free installation. Applicable: Most Toyota 4 cylinder & some Mazda engines. This Special Bonus Kit was designed for the proper installation of Pulley Crank Shaft oil seals, situated within confined areas on most 4, 6 & 8 cylinder Toyota / Lexus, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda and Infiniti engines. Application includes Cam Shaft oil seal installation of Toyota / Lexus 2.5L, 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.4L, 4.0L & 4.3L engines. The step bolts screw into the cam or crank shaft end. The press nut w/ washer allows for an even ressing force, seating the oil seal into the engine case every time

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TIMKEN BEARING CONVERSION TOOL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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2-ton press (must be square to within .010″, ram to table) Inch-lb torque wrench Foot-lb torque wrench T15 TORX® drive socket (for inch-lb torque wrench) 5/32 inch hex drive socket (for inch-lb torque wrench) 5/16 inch hex drive socket (for foot-lb torque wrench) 5/64 inch hex key wrench 1/16 inch hex key wrench 3/8 inch drive hand drill small tap handle (suitable for #8-32 tap) Tapping Fluid Press Fit Lube (non-drip) Loctite® 620 threadlocker and sealant The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references service manual information. A service manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 21 and Table 3. If replacement parts are needed contact JIMS® at 805-482- 6913 or INSTALLATION 1. Remove and disassemble the engine as necessary to remove the left side engine case. Bearings and seals must be removed from the left case. Refer to the service manual for the disassembly procedures. 2. Use an appropriate solvent to clean the left engine case. Also clean the bearing sleeve (1) supplied in the kit. 3. Apply Loctite 620 to the smaller inside diameter portion of the left case bearing bore. 4. See Figure 1. Apply Loctite 620 using a cotton swab to the smaller portion of the outside diameter (2) surface of the bearing sleeve (1). 5. Apply a spare amount of non-drip press fit lube (3) to the larger outside diameter of the bearing sleeve. 6. See Figure 2. Fit the bottom locater plate (1) to the to the outside of the case over the bearing bore. The word “BOTTOM” will be at the bottom of the case when installed at the 6 o’clock position

HARLEY DAVIDSON CYLINDER BASE COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1 is02717 1. Remove crankcase bolt Figure 1. Crankcase bolt location 1. See Figure 1. Remove existing bolt from crankcase. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain the cylinder base cover spacer (2) and 5/16-18 socket head cap screw (1) from kit. 3. Insert the screw into the counterbored side of spacer. 4. Loosely install the screw into the engine case. Rotate the spacer so that the 1/4-20 tapped hole is at the 6 o’clock position. 5. Obtain the cylinder base cover (3) from kit. 6. Temporarily position the cover and align the cylinder base cover hole with the spacer hole. If necessary, rotate the spacer slightly to achieve the best cover fit along the pri- mary. 7. Remove the cover and grasp the sides of the spacer with an open end wrench to maintain its position. Tighten screw to 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm). 8. Place washer (4) on socket head bolt (5) from kit. Slide bolt and washer through cylinder base cover (3) and install bolt in spacer. Tighten bolt to 80-100 in-lbs (9.0-11.3 Nm). SERVICE PARTS

HARLEY DAVIDSON RONT & REAR HEADPIPE AND HEATSHIELDS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove both left and right saddlebags and set them aside. 2. Remove the right side floorboard from the frame and set aside. 3. Unplug the O 2 sensors on front and rear headpipes from motorcycle wire harnesses. 4. Remove the stock exhaust system. It may be necessary to lubricate the slip joints of the exhaust with WD-40 or similar lubricant to aid in disassembly. The stock muffler slide hangers may be left in place in the rubber mounts for later reinstallation of the mufflers. 5. Remove the stock rear headpipe support-mounting bracket by removing the two starter mounting bolts, this bracket will not be reused. Note: Use caution when removing the bolts so that any tools used do not come in contact with the positive post on the starter. Install the Cobra supplied, exhaust support-mounting bracket, see Figure 1. 6. Remove the stock exhaust flanges, retaining rings and O 2 sensors from the stock headpipes and headpipe support clamp from the front headpipe. Remove the new front headpipe from packaging and install the stock flange, retaining rings and O 2 sensor on to the pipe. 7. On the front headpipe slide the stock headpipe support clamp over it. Install the front headpipe on the motorcycle using the stock flange nuts to secure it to the exhaust port studs, but do not tighten at this time. Slide the headpipe support clamp forward on the headpipe and over the stock exhaust mount on the right side engine case, make sure the clamp’s rectangular hole is on top and the flat part of the clamp is downward, see Figure 2. Install the carriage bolt and nut to secure the tube clamp but do not tighten at this time. 8. Reinstall the muffler onto the front headpipe using one muffler slip clamp. Reinsert two stock 5/16- inch bolts into rear muffler mount, tighten to factory torque specs, do not tighten front muffler slip clamp at this time. (NOTE: On some models equipped with saddlebags the bag rail may need to be adjusted outward to allow proper clearance between muffler body and swing arm / axle nut.) 9. Tighten front headpipe flange nuts then headpipe support clamp to factory torque specifications. 10. Remove front heatshield and hose clamps from packaging. Unscrew the hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamps through the clips on the inside of the heatshield from the bottom, so the screws are facing toward the bottom and accessible with a screw driver once the heatshield is installed. Install the heatshield over the front headpipe. (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes.) Align heatshield with headpipe and snug clamps but do not tighten .

YAMAHA ROADLINER 1854cc exhaust system Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Loosen and move the right side floorboard out of the way to ease installation of the exhaust. 2. Perform the following to remove the stock exhaust system. NOTE : You must disconnect and remove the power valve cables as well as unplug the oxygen sensor connector first, then remove the exhaust system and mounting bracket, see Figure 1 for power valve. Loosening the jam nuts on each cable, and disengaging the cable barrels from the power valve pulley disconnect the power valve cables. The power valve, and cables are not needed with the new Cobra exhaust system, leave the solenoid box under the seat in place without the cables. To disconnect the O 2 sensor remove the right rear footpeg and remove the steel plate with hook securing O 2 sensor harness behind it, retain plate for later reinstallation. Remove the socket head screw securing the O 2 sensor harness and bracket to engine case on the right side of the motorcycle, see Figure 2 , unplug the stock male and female connectors, and remove entire exhaust system. Disengage the female O 2 connector from the small bracket, (which was unbolted from engine case), to gain extra harness length, upon reassembly of new Cobra exhaust, the small bracket, (from engine case), will not be reused, unless a closed loop Fi2000 ® (92-1773CL /92-1773CL-50), is to be used, then please refer to those specific instructions. Next remove the oxygen sensor from the stock exhaust and retain for later reinstallation. 3. Install new exhaust-mounting bracket using the stock M10 bolts; tighten to factory specifications, Figure 3. 4. Install the front and rear headpipes on to the motorcycle using the supplied flanges, stock bolts and nuts. NOTE: On the rear headpipe be sure to install the stock flange cover as shown in Figure 4. Make sure the pipes are parallel to each other. DO NOT TIGHTEN. 5. Remove the muffler assembly from the box and slide two supplied 27-61MSC clamps onto the muffler inlets, refer to Figure 5 for alignment. Do not install oxygen sensor at this time, as it will not clear the frame rail during installation of the muffler assembly. 6. Slide the muffler assembly on to the headpipes by tapping on the headpipes by hand as you push the muffler forward making sure the assembly slides as far forward as possible. Secure the muffler assembly to the mounting bracket using the supplied 5/16-18 bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN. Install the oxygen sensor at this time, by inserting it between the right frame rail, and engine case, tighten securely once installed. 7. Reconnect the oxygen sensor connectors, then reposition behind the frame rail and reinstall the M6 x 50 mm bolt removed from engine case and tighten to proper factory torque specification.

DYNA III ELECTRONIC IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1)Fasten the clamp to the electronic module using the 4-4O x 5/16 screws and lockouts provided. The damp and nuts go on the inside of the case. 2)Remove the fuel tank. Attach the module to the frame in the location selected. Cut off excess clamp material. 3)Remove an engine case or valve cover bolt and fasten the ground lug (black wire) securely to the engine. DO NOT ATTACH TO FRAME. 4])Locate the two ignition coils (they are positioned behind the left side cover on some models). There is a white wire going to the positive side of one coil that carries the switched 12 volts. A short blue/black wire then connects that point to the positive side of the other coil. Connect the separate red wire included with the kit to the spare spade terminal that is available on the positive terminal of the second coil. 5)Plug the red wire coming from the electronic module into the red wire installed in Step 4. 6)Remove the cap from the contact breaker housing. Remove the alternator cover, timing mark inspection plug, and spark plugs. 7)Remove the two screws and clips holding the points plate to the housing. Remove the screws holding the condensers to the housing. Disconnect the red and green wires where they plug into the wire harness (or coils), and remove the entire points/plate/condenser assembly. 8)Make sure the top of the housing is clean. Place the DYNA III sensor plate on the housing and orient it so that the wires exit to the rear. Place one of the original wire grommets on the front end of the plate and secure it with the screw and clip previously removed. Route the sensor cable wires through the other grommet (2 wires in the largest hole) and secure with the other screw and clip. Before tightening the plate screws, make sure the plate does not obstruct the cap screw holes. 9)Using a hex wrench in the alternator bolt, rotate the engine forward until the right hand cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke (D mark aligned with index mark on engine case). 10) Make sure the points cam is free of dirt and grease, and slip the DYNA III rotor over the cam Push the rotor down until it’s flange is in contact with the top of the cam. Orient the rotor so that the mark on top aligns with the line on the left (right cylinder) sensor. While pushing down on the rotor, tighten the set screws using the alien wrench supplied with the kit. 11)Rotate the engine by hand and check run-out (wobble) of rotor by watching the rotor/sensor gap. If the rotor is installed correctly, there should be no more than . 005 run-out, and it should not come in contact with either sensor. As a final check, turn the engine with the electric starter and observe the run-out. 12)Connect the three sensor cable plugs to the module receptacles, matching the red, white, and black wires. 13)Plug the remaining red and green wires onto the spade terminals where the original points connected, matching the colors

Pulsar XR 650R ELECTRIC-START KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, side panels, muffler, and headers. 2. Disconnect the stator wires from their corresponding mates underneath the seat (trace the wires up from the left side case.) Un-route the stator wiring so it hangs free from the left side case. 3. Remove the stock shift lever and the left side engine case cover. You do not need to drain the oil from the engine. 4. Unbolt and remove the stator and wiring from the stock cover. Do not cut any wires. 5. The stock pulsar coil (small black box hanging from the stator) will have to be modified slightly to clear the ring gear before installation into the new cover. Remove (file or grind) about .030 inches of material from the base of the pulsar coil so that the base is flush with the face of the rest of the coil as shown in Photos 1 and 2. File Here Photo 2 Make flush with this surface Remove material here Photo 1 6. Install the stator and modified pulsar coil into the new engine case cover as shown in Photo 3. Use the three provided Phillips head bolts, split lock-washers, and plastic cable clamps to secure the wiring as shown. You will need to pull about ½” of extra wire through the grommet (Photo 4) to give you enough wire length for the grommet to sit in its case cutout. To do this, remove the electrical tape from the end of the stator wires and pull each wire individually through the grommet. Neither of the stock metal wire guides will be used when reinstalling the stator into the new case (Photo 5). 5/16″ cable clamps 1/8″ cable clamp Photo 3 Photo 5 Not Used Pull extra wire through grommet Photo 4 7. Remove the stock flywheel nut (An air impact tool works best to remove this nut without turning the motor). Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller provided. 8. Locate the T and F marks on the stock flywheel (Photo 6). The T mark is used to adjust valve clearances and its location needs to be transferred to the ring gear. Scribe a line in the edge of the flywheel in line with the T mark as shown in Photo 7