HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE TWIN CAM 110 (1800 CC) CONVERSION KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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REMOVAL Prepare for Service 1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift. NOTE If vehicle is equipped with Harley-Davidson Smart Security System, see owner’s manual for instructions to disarm the system. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) battery cable first. 3. Remove seat according to the instructions in the service manual. 4. Refer to service manual to remove left saddlebag and side cover. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 5. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the service manual. Remove Engine Components 1. Remove existing air cleaner assembly. Discard backplate but save remaining parts. Refer to AIR CLEANER REMOVAL in service manual. 2. Remove existing exhaust system. Refer to EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL in service manual. 3. Remove engine from chassis following the instructions in the service manual. 4. Disassemble engine top end and bottom end. Refer to appropriate ENGINE sections in service manual. 5. Remove existing clutch diaphragm spring. Refer to CLUTCH REMOVAL in service manual. The procedures in this instruction sheet should be performed by one experienced in precision measuring techniques. Failure to meet tolerances called for in this instruction sheet can result in engine damage. (00511b) -J04793 1 2 is03517 1. O-ring counterbore 2. Spigot bore Figure 1. Spigot Bore and O-Ring Counterbore Dimensions Table 1. Spigot Bore and O-Ring Counterbore Dimensions Depth Bore Description 1.625 +/- 0.010 in. (41.3 +/- 0.25 mm) 4.205 +/- 0.010 in. (107 +/- 0.25 mm) Spigot Bore 0.085 +/- 0.003 in. (2.16 +/- 0.08 mm) 4.415 +/- 0.002 in. (112 +/- 0.05 mm) O-Ring Counter- bore is03456 Figure 2. Cylinder Wall MACHINE CRANKCASE Crankcase Boring Preparation NOTE During final assembly of the engine, Harley-Davidson recommends replacing the OE cylinder studs with Screamin’ Eagle High Tensile Studs (16505-01). 1. Remove cylinder studs from the engine crankcase. 2. Mask off all bearings and oil holes to prevent debris and contaminants from entering those areas. 3. Inspect and clean engine case mating surfaces. 4. See Figure 6. Reassemble engine case with OE screws, except the top center screw between the cylinders, and tighten to specifications listed in service manual. NOTE To prevent damage to crankcase boring tool, it is important to replace the top center screw with a modified top center screw (1093). This screw is included in the Crankcase Boring Tool Kit (94419-06) and can be purchased separately from a Harley- Davidson dealer. 5. Install modified top center screw (1093) between the cylinders and tighten to 50-90 in-lbs (5.6-10.2 Nm). 6. See Figure 1 and Table 1. Machine crankcase cylinder spigot bore and O-ring counterbore to the dimensions shown. Modify Crankcase

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1982 Kawasaki KZ550C Electric Motorcycle Conversion Notes

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 03-12-2010

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Starting point: • 1982 Kawasaki KZ550C that I found in an alley near my house. Frame rust sanded and repainted. • Rebuilt front suspension ($25 for front fork oil seals, 1 weekend for repair) • Need-to-be-rebuilt front brake caliper • Need-to-be-replaced front master brake cylinder (expected ~$80) • Need-to-be-refurbished electrical wiring system and 12V battery • Working rear brake • Flat rear tire, patched with fix-a-flat (temporary repair), 77″ circumference. • In-tact 530 size 62″ chain with 36 tooth driven sprocket • Miscellaneous spare parts from 1978 Kawasaki KZ450, most of which fit on the 1982 frame, including an ignition switch and key. I started with a chassis I found in an alley near my house. It was in rough shape and needed some refurbishment before I could start the conversion. Most of refurbishment steps are listed above in bullets. In addition to the repainting and repair of important aspects of the bike, I also needed to remove the IC engine components and the grease caked on from years of IC use. The Clymer manual for this bike was helpful in this process, which was about $18 from [13]. Steps for removing the engine were as follows. I removed the seat and the gas tank. I removed the electrical system wiring and 12V battery holder. I then removed the carburetors (which took a lot of pushing and shoving) and air filter box. I then removed the drive socket cover and removed the drive socket from the engine drive shaft. This allowed me to slip the chain off of the drive socket after loosening the rear wheel to put slack into the chain. I slipped the chain off and let it rest on the rear wheel swing arm and drained the old motor oil. I then removed all of the engine mounting bolts and pushed the entire engine out of the right side of the bike. This took a lot of effort but it is possible to remove the engine without removing the piston heads as recommended in the Clymer manual. The engine weights about 60-70 lbs, so it was possible to handle with one person. I suggest using a flat car jack to help with engine removal. I will eventually sell the IC parts through Ebay

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S&S Super Stock Cylinder Head Kit Installation Instructions for 1984 And Later Evolution Big Twin and Sportster Engines

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result is that the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as “blue printing”, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore. NOTE – All engines should be checked upon disassembly. This applies to any engine receiving new pistons which includes those being completely overhauled. CAUTION – Pistons which do not run true in cylinder bores may cause excessive connecting rod side thrusting. This may lead to premature ring, piston, connecting rod and rod bearing wear and eventual failure of these parts. Visual Procedure A. Reinstall cylinders on old pistons without rings. Hold cylinders securely in place. B. Move piston tight toward camside of engine. C. Turn engine over in normal direction of travel 2 or 3 revolutions and observe piston during process. D. Move piston toward driveside of engine and repeat Step C. If misalignment exists, piston will appear closer to cylinder wall at one point around circumference. Condition can be corrected by bending rod in opposite direction. Figure 1 shows an exaggerated side view. E. Repeat Steps B to D for other cylinder. F. Remove pistons and cylinders. Observe pistons for wear spots on sides above top compression ring. If either side near wristpin is worn clean while side opposite is carboned up, then piston was not running straight and true in cylinder bore. Piston will also generally show diagonal wear pattern on thrust faces of skirts and possibly signs of connecting rod to wristpin boss contact inside piston.

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1999 – 2005 Aprilia Falco SL 1000 Scottoiler Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Locate the vacuum – There is a rubber bung over a spigot on the inlet tract. Remove this bung and then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the spigot. For further information see our easy step installation guide – Vacuum Connectors, General . See third picture The RMV can be mounted under the seat. The more vertical the RMV the better and remember to avoid exhaust and engine components. For further information, see our easy step installation guide – RMV Positions, General. See picture bottom left The Dispenser Assembly can be routed along the Swingarm using Dispenser Mounting Sleeves & Glue and secured to the paddock stand bobbin mount using a cut down Dispenser Plate & Clip, parts 19 & 20. For further information see our easy step installation guide – Dispenser Assemblies, General . The nib should feed the rear sprocket between the 6 & 7 o’clock positions, with the cut face facing outwards. Note: Picture shows a similar Swingarm Once fitted, fill and prime the system and set the adjuster knob to ‘prime’. Start the engine and turn the adjuster knob until a flow of between 1 and 2 drops per minute is achieved. Check the condition of your chain after a ride, and then adjust as required

Ducati 900ss Scottoiler Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Locate the vacuum – There is a vacuum point on the inlet tract, as shown below left. Remove the screw and replace with the M5 Brass Spigot from the Scottoiler kit, using some RTV Silicon Sealant on the threads to ensure an airtight seal. Then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the spigot. The Dispenser Assembly, shown bottom left, is routed along the underside of the Swingarm using Dispenser Mounting Sleeves, Cable Ties & Glue. Note: an epoxy resin (eg. Araldite) is req’d to bond the sleeves to the Swingarm. For further information see our easy step installation guide – ‘Dispenser Assemblies, General’ . The nib should feed the sprocket between the 6 & 7 o’clock positions, with the cut face facing outwards. The Dual Injector (sold separately) is shown below. The RMV can be mounted on the frame, where indicated by the arrows in the third picture. The more vertical the RMV the better and remember to avoid exhaust and engine components. For further information, see our easy step installation guide – ‘RMV Positions, General’

2003 Kawasaki ZZR 1200 Scottoiler Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Locate the vacuum – There is a vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, as shown below left, cut into this pipe and insert the T-Piece from the Scottoiler kit. Then Press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee. The RMV can be mounted under the seat, as shown in the third picture, or behind the number plate. The more vertical the RMV the better and remember to avoid exhaust and engine components. For further information, see our easy step installation guide – ‘RMV Positions, General’ The Dispenser Assembly, shown bottom left, is routed along the underside of the Swingarm using Dispenser Mounting Sleeves & Glue. Note: an epoxy resin (eg. Araldite) is req’d to bond the sleeves to the Swingarm. For further information see our easy step installation guide – ‘Dispenser Assemblies, General’ . The nib should feed the sprocket between the 6 & 7 o’clock positions, with the cut face facing outwards, as shown below

Kawasaki ZZR600 Scottoiler Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Locate the vacuum – There is a rubber bung over a spigot on the inlet side of each carburetor. Remove one of these bungs and then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the spigot. Later models: These spigots might have vacuum pipes between them, in which case cut into the pipe and insert the T-Piece from the Scottoiler kit. Then press the Damper Elbow onto the third leg of the tee. The RMV can be mounted under the seat or behind the number plate. The more vertical the RMV the better and remember to avoid exhaust and engine components. For further information, see our easy step installation guide – ‘RMV Positions, General’ . The Dispenser Assembly, shown left , is routed along the underside of the Swingarm using Dispenser Mounting Sleeves, Cable Ties & Glue. Note: an epoxy resin (eg. Araldite) is req’d to bond the sleeves to the Swingarm. For further information see our easy step installation guide – ‘Dispenser Assemblies, General’ . The nib should feed the sprocket between the 6 & 7 o’clock positions, with the cut face facing outwards, as shown bottom left. Note: This is a generic image Once fitted, fill and prime the system and set the adjuster knob to ‘prime’. Start the engine and turn the adjuster knob until a flow of between 1 and 2 drops per minute is achieved. Check the condition of your chain after a ride, and then adjust as required.

KAWASAKI STX-12F, STX-15F Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our race bred Supercharger System for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains all necessary engine components to produce the ultimate 80mph closed course race craft. Kit contains the same specifications that Team Kawasaki won two 2004 Pro Runabout World Titles with. System produces over 300hp using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes Vortech Supercharger & Intercooler Forged Racing Pistons, Free flow Exhaust Kit, Race programmed ECU, High volume Injectors & Fuel Pump along with all necessary hardware and detailed installation instructions. Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine (Team Kawi Spec) PERFORMANCE DATA Stock 61 MPH @ 7,600 RPM Supercharged 80+ MPH @ 8,300 RPM RIVA STX-15F OFFSHORE RACE KIT Our Offshore Racing Kit for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains the same components and specifications that Team Kawasaki developed to dominate the international racing circuit. This modification delivers over 200hp producing awesome acceleration and a top speed of over 700mph using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes high compression racing pistons, performance intake & exhaust cam shafts, Race programmed ECU along with all necessary gaskets and detailed installation instructions

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