Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 07-05-2012
1. Remove the lower fairing. Remove thelower radiator mounting bolts, loosen the upper bolts and pivot the radiator forward to provide access to the exhaust nuts (flange nuts). Remove the oil cooler mounting bolts and pivot the oil cooler forward to provide access. 2. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 3. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 4. Assemble the head pipes 1 (blue), 2 (red), 3 (yellow), and 4 (green) by matching the joints of the same color to the pair of front Y-pipes. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. 5. 2000 through 2002 models ONLY!!! Place a billet aluminum exhaust port centering flange Z on each TiForce headpipe -see figure 3 for details. 6. Attachthe assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports, but do not tighten the flange nuts fully, allowing for some adjustment in the remaining steps. Reuse the flange nuts saved from step 2 above. Make sure the ends of the headpipes fit flush and snug in the ports and centering flanges Z before tightening (’00-’02 ONLY). 7. Install the S-Bend to the front section of the headpipes and two Y-pipes. 8. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications -make sure the headpipes and flanges Z are centered in each port (’00-’02 ONLY!!! ) . 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. 10. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stay / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 1. 11. Place the bands approximately 108 mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 12. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 13. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the headpipes and working back to the end can. 14. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance. 15. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (refer to step 11 /figure 2), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTIONWHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 06-05-2012
1. The Stage IV controller can be mounted in numerous places. Placement depends on personal preferences. Only mount in locations where no damage may occur from sharp or hot objects. 4. Start the UTV and in approximately four seconds the lights on the Stage IV controller will be visible. With a proper install, you should see lights going from side to side on the controller. This will last approximately eight seconds and then will stop. After lights have stopped going side to side, you will notice a great light on the left side of the controller. When you rev the motor, lights will increase across the controller and even change colors. 5. Double check all fasteners and connections. 7. The Stage IV controller has been programmed for ultimate performance when using Trinity Racing’s Stage IV exhaust system and Powerflow intake system on an otherwise stock engine. Different products, modifications, or other conditions may require additional adjustments. Please refer to Basic Tuning Adjustments and all final fuel adjustments are the customer’s responsibility. 8. You are now ready to ride! Enjoy your new Stage IV fuel management controller! Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-04-2012
STEP 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE HEADERS, COLLECTOR, AND MID-PIPE TO INSURE PROPER FIT BETWEEN ALL PARTS: Brock’s Performance pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is shipped to your door. We ask you to this to insure there were no shipping damages incurred before you start disassembling your bike. A lot of our customers use WD-40 applied to the joints to ease assembly, adjustment, and/or disassembly. STEP 3: REMOVE ZX-14 RIGHT AND LEFT DASHBOARDS : The right and left dashboards are held in place by three fasteners (Figure 4) which are removed with a No. 4 hex head wrench. Note that all dashboard and fairing fasteners have thin plastic washers located between the fastener head and the plastic body work. Be careful to save the plastic washers. To avoid losing fasteners and washers it is recommended that the installer place them in a container once they are removed. STEP 4: REMOVE ZX-14 LOWER FAIRING : The lower fairing consists of separate right and left side panels, both of which should be removed. The locations of the bolts and plastic push pins holding the fairing in place are illustrated in Figure 5. Details are provided below. • The plastic push pins is located in the front of the fairing (3) , aft of the front tire, and holds the left and right panels together. Remove the plastic push pins using a thin blade screw driver to lift the rivet head. Then pull the rivet from the bodywork. This will release the right panel from the left panel. • Remove the lower fairing fasteners & washers (1 & 2) on the right fairing panel with a No. 5 hex head wrench. • Remove the upper fairing fasteners & washers (4, 5, & 6) on the right fairing panel with a No. 4 hex head wrench. • Note that the top of the fairing incorporates slots into which hooks at the bottom of the mid fairing (red bodywork) fit. These hooks are shown in Figure 8. Pull the bottom of the lower fairing panel away from the bike and then downward to clear the hooks from the slots. The right side lower fairing should now separate easily from the mid-fairing. • Repeat for the left side lower fairing
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-04-2012
LegUp has developed a new, stronger attachment system which replaces the Harley-Davidson® center stand previously included in the kit! You will need to remove most all of the exhaust system, in order to install the support stand. Remove the right front floorboard the entire right exhaust pipe, and the left rear floorboard. These need to be removed to allow access to the swing arm pillow block lower bolts, which attach the support stand to the motorcycle. Leg Support Stand If you haven’t already done so, install the uprights (Blue above) to the plate. These uprights bolt to the plate on the bottom with (4) 3/8″ bolts and lock washers. The taller upright goes on the right side of the plate (the far side in this picture). Remove the bottom bolts from the swing arm pillow blocks and set them aside. The right one may have a cap rather than a bolt. These bolts are the ones under the big chrome circles where the swing arm meets the frame. Once this is done, use a helper and gently slide the plate (red above) under the bike. It gets located under the transmission, and below the cross-brace that has two large holes in it. Lift the stand until the holes in the uprights align with the holes in the pillow block. Re-install the pillow block bolts, but leave them loose. Find the 3/8″ Strap (green above) and the (2) 5/16″ bolts and lock washers. Place the strap above the cross-brace that is under the transmission, and align one of the bolts (the bolts go through the non-threaded holes in the plate) with the threaded hole in the strap, through the cross-brace. Just start the first bolt, and then repeat the process on the other side
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-04-2012
1. Be sure motorcycle is properly secured before you begin. 2. Remove saddlebags and place aside. 3. Begin removing your stock mufflers. Starting on one side of the bike, loosen the clamp securing the muffler to the headpipe. Remove the two bolts securing the muffler to the mounting bracket on the saddlebag support of the bike. Keep these bolts for use with your new slip-on mufflers. 4. Using supplied clamp over new slip-on muffler install over stock headpipe. Align the mount tab with holes in the mounting bracket on the saddlebag support. Note that there is a left and a right side pipe. The clearance dent is on the side closest to the swingarm providing clearance on many models. Secure pipe with stock bolts. Be sure to apply Loctite® to bolts upon re-installation. 5. Securely tighten bolts, and then tighten the clamp securing the slip-on muffler to the headpipe. 6. On the opposite side of the bike, repeat steps 3-5. 7. Reinstall saddlebags. 8. Be sure to check proper alignment and clearances before riding. 9. Every time you perform regular maintenance be sure to re-torque all clamps and fasteners. SUGGESTION: For maximum performance you can purchase our “Tru-Power” Headers and XXX Air Cleaner to truly complement the power that your new “Tru-Power” Slip-Ons provide. DISCLAIMER: This aftermarket exhaust system is designed to replace a stock exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame, and other components in their stock design configuration and location. Re-mapping or re-jetting may be necessary after installation of these exhaust pipes.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-04-2012
EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING 1. Under the oil tank on the right hand side, locate the rear O² sensor connector. Unplug sensor and feed the end of wire through the frame freeing it from motorcycle. NOTE: Pay attention to wire routing for re-installation. 2. Open the plastic cover above the rectifier on front of the frame to access to the front O² sensor connector. Unplug sensor from harness. Remove ZIPSTRIP holding wire to frame and feed the wire through freeing it from motorcycle. 3. On floorboard equipped models, loosen the right hand floorboard mounting bolts to gain clearance for exhaust removal and installation. 4. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both front and rear exhaust pipes. 5. Remove the mounting nuts from each head pipe, located at the cylinder head. 6. Remove the nuts attaching the exhaust mount bracket to the frame. 7. On FLSTD and FLSTF models, you will need to remove the right side passenger foot peg and hanger, as this is attached to the exhaust mount bracket. Replace the passenger foot peg assembly using the BOLT 14 Allen bolt (supplied). 8. Remove the entire exhaust system and set it aside. 9. Remove the two lower mounting studs from the frame See figure 1 . Recommended replacement exhaust port gaskets, H-D P/N: 65324-83A. 10. Carefully remove exhaust port flanges and circlips from the stock exhaust system using snapring pliers. See figure 2 . NOTE: Replace bent or damaged circlips. Check exhaust port gasket condition. 11. Remove O² sensors from stock head pipe and set aside for re-installation on your new RUSH exhaust system. PAGE 1 OF 4 RUSH RACING PRODUCTS EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION P/N 7020 – 7120 BEFORE INSTALLATION PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS 1. Remove header and heat shields from protective packaging. Place each heat shield on a non-abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. Using a felt tip pen, mark outside edge of each heat shield to show location of mounting clips that hose clamps will loop through See figure 3. 2. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads of the O² sensors and install them into the new head pipe. NOTE: Be careful not to get anti-seize on sensor tip, it may affect sensor function. 3. Install circlips and flanges from stock system onto the new head pipe See Figure 2. Note: Replace circlips if bent or damaged 4. Attach BRKT-007 to frame using two BOLT 12 Tighten to factory specs. 5. Install complete assembly into exhaust ports (rear port first). Use stock flange nuts, Do Not Tighten .
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2012
1. Find and unplug the O2 sensor wires from the wiring harness and remove nylon cable tie holding front wire to frame. Feed the end of the wires through the frame so they are free from the motorcycle. NOTE: Pay attention to wire routing for re-installation. 2. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both the front and rear exhaust pipes. This allows easier access to the head pipe mounting nuts. 3. Remove the two head pipe mounting nuts from each fl ange, located at the cylinder head. 4. Remove the clamp bolt which mounts the rear head pipe to the belt drive cover bracket. 5. Remove the two bolts from each muffl er body where they attach to the mounting bar. Carefully remove exhaust pipes from the motorcycle and set aside. 6. Using a 7/8″ or 22mm wrench, carefully remove the O2 sensors from the stock head pipes and save for re-use with the new system. 7. Remove the drive belt cover and take the bracket off the rear cover bolt, the bracket will not be re-used. 8. Loosen the brake rod at the rear eyelet using a T30 torx driver. 9. Remove the three mount bolts and washers attaching the exhaust mounting bar (save hardware for re-use). 10. Carefully remove exhaust port fl anges and circlips from the stock exhaust system using snapring pliers. NOTE: Replace bent or damaged circlips. Check exhaust port gasket condition
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012
1. Under the oil tank on the right hand side, locate the rear O2 sensor connector. Unplug sensor and feed the end of wire through the frame freeing it from motorcycle. NOTE: Pay attention to wire routing for re-installation. 2. Open the plastic cover above the rectifi er on front of the frame to gain access to the front O2 sensor connector. Unplug sensor from harness. Remove cable tie holding wire to frame and feed the end of the wire through, freeing it from motorcycle. 3. On FLSTC, FLSTF, FLSTN and FLSTSC models, loosen the right hand fl oor board mounting bolts to gain clearance for exhaust removal and installation. 4. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both front and rear exhaust pipes. 5. Remove the two mounting nuts from each head pipe, located at the cylinder head. 6. Remove the nuts attaching the exhaust mount bracket to the frame. 7. On FLSTN, FLSTF and FXSTD models, you will need to remove the right side passenger footpeg and hanger, as this is attached to the exhaust mount bracket. Remove hanger, and replace the passenger foot peg assembly using the 3/8″ x 2 1/2″ Allen bolt (supplied). 8. If equipped, unbolt the carriage bolt and clamp attached to the bracket under the right side transmission cover. 9. Remove the entire exhaust system and set it aside. 10. If equipped, remove the bracket from under the right side transmission cover. 11. Using a 7/8″ or 22mm wrench, carefully remove the O2 sensors from the stock head pipes and save for re-use with the new system. 12. Remove the two lower mounting studs from the frame (Figure 1). 13. Carefully remove exhaust port fl anges and circlips from the stock exhaust system using snapring pliers. NOTE: Replace bent or damaged circlips. Check exhaust port gasket condition. Recommended replacement exhaust port gaskets, Harley part number:17048-98 or 65324-83A
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 17-03-2012
1. Before removing the stock exhaust system note orientation particularly of the support bar between the two muffl er bodies (Figure 1) and the muffl er clamps. If necessary, using tape or another easily removable means, note the orientation on the stock support to ease re-installation. 2. Remove the four 1/2″ lock nuts that hold the support bar to the stock muffl ers and remove the stock support bar and bolts (set the nuts. bolts and support bar aside as they will be used later). 3. Using the 9/16″ deep socket, loosen the clamps holding the muffl ers onto the head pipes and remove the muffl ers from the head pipes. NOTE: May require assistance and the use of penetrating oil. 4. The stock muffl er clamps may be re-used. However Vance & Hines recommends replacing them with new clamps (Harley part number 65283-94). If using the stock clamps, be sure the T-Bolt does not twist out of the groove during tightening. This could allow the clamp to loosen with use
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2012
Protect yourself and others when you have a vehicle up in the air. Anytime you lift a vehicle, either by hoist or a jack, make sure that it is securely supported. b. Make sure the engine is turned off and battery disconnected before you begin work. Carbon Monoxide poisoning from exhaust gases: Be sure there is adequate ventilation whenever you run the engine. Burns from hot parts: Let the engine and exhaust system cool before working on those areas. Injury from moving parts: If running the engine, keep hands, fingers and clothing away from moving/rotating parts. c. Gasoline vapor and hydrogen gases from batteries are explosive. To reduce the possibility of fire or explosion, be careful when working near gasoline and batteries. d. Use only nonflammable solvent, not gasoline, to clean parts e. Never drain or store gasoline in an open container. f. Keep all cigarettes, sparks or flame away from the battery and all fuel related parts. 1.5 Specifications Overall Length: 103″ Overall Width: 57.25″ Wheel Base: 53″ Load Capacity: 600 Lb Tire Size (15″): 205 / 70 / R15 Wheel Size (15″) (4 lug) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4 on 4.5 Tire Pressure: 24-26 PSI Suspension: Double A-arm Independent Rear Differential: Custom-built rear differential utilizing OEM drive belt. Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear. Storage Capacity: 5.75 cubic feet. Two full-face helmets and additional storage.
Harley-Davidson® FLH 2008 & Down Independent Suspension CHAMPION TRIKES Installation Guide Page 6 of 20 Revision 4 2 Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. Seat – to be re-installed; without modification. Left and right side covers – to be re-installed after modification. Tour Box – to be re-installed (if so equipped). Left and right saddle bags (if so equipped). Left and right rear crash bars, saddlebag rails (if so equipped). Tour Box mounting frame (if so equipped). Left and right passenger foot rests – to be re-installed without modification. Left and right mufflers Rear wheel NOTE: Prior to removing rear wheel, depress foot brake and secure in down position (e.g., zip-tie to floor board). This will prevent fluid flow when rear brake Caliper is removed. Remove Rear Caliper (disconnect brake line at Caliper). NOTE: Cap line to prevent introduction of dust / debris into line. Remove Caliper
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