Yamaha Stratoliner 2006 3" Big Straights REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 02-01-2012

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1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding muffler at rear mounting bracket. 3. Remove Cables from exhaust valve. 4. Remove O2 Sensor from pipe. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 7. Remove complete pipe assembly. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install O2 Sensor onto front pipe and install front pipe onto front cylinder, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe onto rear cylinder. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head — (Remove chrome plastic valve cover to access top nut) — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration.

Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

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SUZUKI M109 1800 cc EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and right side fairing cover (with M109 insignia), behind the fuel tank. To remove the fairing, release the plastic peg on top by pushing the center inward and pulling the fairing upwards until the peg releases, remove the M6 button head bolt at the bottom of the fairing. Pull the fairing outward from the rear and upward near the plastic peg to release it. Once it is free from all plastic pegs pull it forward to release it from the bottom of the fuel tank. 2. Remove the right side cover above the exhaust-mounting bracket secured by one M6 button head bolt, retain bolt for later. Remove the chrome steel cover above the exhaust secured by two remaining bolts, (this chrome piece will no longer be used.) Remove the large left rear rubber grommet and flanged steel collar from this chrome piece, to do this press the steel collar out of the rubber grommet first, once the collar is removed push the rubber grommet out of the wire loop on the chrome piece, set aside for later use. 3. Locate the exhaust valve actuator solenoid and harness and disconnect the black 3-prong electrical connector and white 2-prong electrical connector. 4. Remove the socket head bolts securing exhaust flanges to cylinder heads, set these fasteners aside for later use in reassembly. Support the weight of the exhaust system and remove the 2, 8 mm bolts and one 8 mm nut securing the exhaust mounting bracket and exhaust assembly. Keep these fasteners for use later. Remove the stock exhaust system as one complete unit; this includes the stock exhaust bracket, headpipes and muffler, exhaust valve solenoid and cables. 5. The exhaust valve actuator solenoid must now be removed from the stock exhaust-mounting bracket. To perform this, loosen the two nuts securing each cable to the exhaust valve cable-mounting tab, Position A in Figure 1. Make enough slack in the cables so that the ends of the cables’ threaded sheath may be disengaged from the end of the mounting tab. Now remove the two M6 hex head bolts securing the solenoid to the stock exhaust bracket. The stock exhaust mounting bracket, headpipes and muffler and exhaust valve solenoid cables will not be used anymore with the your new Cobra Exhaust System. 6. Remove the dust cover from the solenoid to expose the rotating cam and cables. DO NOT TRY TO ROTATE THE CAM RELATIVE TO THE ACTUATOR SELENOID TO REMOVE THE CABLES; DOING SO MAY DAMAGE THE INTERNAL COMPONENTS OF THE SOLENOID. To remove the cables from the cam, use the slack in the cables obtained in Step 5 to disengage the cable barrels from the cam, see Figure 1. THE DUST COVER WILL NOT BE REINSTALLED. 7. Now prepare the exhaust valve actuator solenoid for reuse. SECURELY HOLD THE CAM TO PREVENT IT FROM ROTATING IN THE SOLENOID. WHILE PREVENTING THE CAM FROM ROTATING, remove the 10 – 32 flange bolt securing it, see Figure 2. Replace the cam with the Cobra supplied cam, BE SURE TO PREVENT THE CAM FROM ROTATING WHEN REINSTALLING THE BOLT, OTHERWISE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO THE SOLENOID , see Figure 3. Torque to factory specifications.

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