ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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Kawasaki KLX450R Dual Sport Kit Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels. 2. Unplug and remove the stock headlight. 3. Taillight Installation: The Baja Designs taillight will run in conjunction with the stock taillight for this installation. Start by removing the first wire guide that the stock taillight wires pass through near the end of the fender. Once removed, trim off the remaining molded mounting boss as shown in Photo 1. Drill three ¼” holes in the fender and use the provided countersunk mounting hardware to attach the Baja Designs taillight as shown in Photo 2. The rear edge of the LED cluster should line up with the rear edge of the fender. Route the wires forward between the plastics to the left of the front mounting bolt. We’ll attach them in a later step. Photo 1 Molded mounting boss removed Stock taillight Photo 2
4. Turn Signal Installation: Drill a 7/16″ hole in each side of the fender plastic in the locations shown in Photo 3. Install the rear turn signals and route the wires forward as shown in Photo 4. Photo 3 Photo 4 Zip-tie BD taillight wires to fender here Route left signal wires through fender with stock taillight wires 5. Brakelight Switch: The KLX uses a hydraulic operated switch to activate the brakelight. Installation of this switch requires bleeding the rear brake system. If you do not feel competent performing this task please refer it to a qualified mechanic. An improperly bled brake can lead to rear brake failure. Caliper Guard Modification: The hydraulic brakeswitch replaces the banjo-bolt that attaches the rear brake hose to the caliper. Because of its larger size, the plastic caliper guard must be relieved slightly to provide clearance. Remove the caliper guard and modify as shown in Photo 5.

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