HARLEY DAVIDSON ULTRA CLASSIC AND ELECTRA GLIDE CLASSIC TOUR PACK ADJUSTMENT KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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1. Open the Tour Pack and remove all of the contents. 2. Remove map bag and inner pack liner. Pack liner comes out quite easily once map bag is removed. 3. Remove the 4 bolts inside the tour pack that are located on top of the metal support plate that hold the tour pack to the luggage rack. Have your assistant hold the pack in place before removing the last bolt. 4. Gently tip the tour pack forward to expose the supporting luggage rack under the pack. 5. While your assistant holds the pack up, place the two adjusting bars on top of the supporting luggage rack. Use the 4 flat head screws supplied with the kit to mount the bars snugly to the support rack (see fig. 1). 6. Reposition the tour pack over the threaded holes in the adjusting bars at the 2″ or 3″ position and bolt it in place snugly (see fig. 2). 7. Replace the trunk liner and map case and the installation is complete

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL SPORT LUGGAGE RACK INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE Cover the rear fender with a clean shop towel to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. 1. See Figure 1. Remove the four button-head TORX screws attaching the sissy bar (5) to the sideplates (4). Discard the screws 2. Remove the sissy bar and set it aside. For Rigid-Mount Sideplates only: Loosen, but do not remove, the hardware securing the sideplates to the motorcycle. 3. Position the luggage rack between the sideplates. Reinstall the sissy bar into the sideplate channels. 4. Apply Loctite 271 (Red) to the flat head TORX screws (2) from the kit, and insert through the holes in the luggage rack (1), sideplate, and sissy bar. Tighten the screws to 8-10 ft-lbs (10.8-13.6 Nm) . For Rigid-Mount Sideplates only: Apply Loctite 271 (Red) to the screws securing the sideplates to the motorcycle, and tighten to 21-27 ft-lbs (28.5-36.6 Nm) . 5. Remove the backing strip from the two rubber bumpers (3) and install onto the luggage rack. a. Align the notches in the bumper with the bottom edge of the channel on the sideplate. b. Wrap the bumper up the side of the luggage rack channel and across the bottom of the sissy bar. When properly installed the bumpers will cover the lower flat head screws, and will bend around the lower edge of the channel. Do not exceed luggage rack weight capacity. Too much weight can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00373a) NOTE Maximum luggage rack weight capacity is ten pounds (4.5 Kg)

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet.

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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Kawasaki Teryx 750 Cab Enclosure Kit Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove seats and set aside for better access to vehicle interior. Refer to Owner’s Manual for instructions. ii) Remove lower foot guardrails and set shoulder screws aside for later use. Loosen 19mm bolts ( A in Fig.1) until 3/16″ gap can be achieved. iii) Loosely fasten rubber stops ( B in Fig.1) to Hinge Mounting Brackets using 6mm bolts. Mount brackets to vehicle as shown in Fig.1 and hand tighten 19mm bolts. iv) Align lower bracket hole to existing foot guard mounting hole and fasten with OEM shoulder screw ( C in Fig.1). NOTE : Apply pressure to screwdriver in order catch threads on nuts. v) Adjust upper edge of brackets with mallet to make bracket edge flush to roll bar edge (Fig.2). Tighten 19mm bolts. Adjust and tighten rubber mounts. FLUSH A B Fig.2 Fig.1 2. Rear Bracketery i) Remove 14mm bolts from lower mounting points on rear crossbar. Install Striker Mounting Brackets as shown (Fig.3). Reinstall bolts and hand tighten only . Attach Striker Plates using (4) ¼-20 x 3/8″ screws, keep loose for later adjustment. ii) Remove 14mm bolts from upper crossbar and install Upper Rear Panel Brackets as shown (Fig.4). Tighten 14mm bolts back into place. 3. Panel Installation i) Install low density foam to interior of panels as shown (Fig.5.) Approx. (8) 3″ long strip are required on each side panel. Install low density foam to entire door / panel interface. ii) Mount side panels to roll cage and temporarily clamp to top roll bar. Loosely insert remaining (2) shoulder screws to each foot well. Adjust each panel to obtain proper alignment at front, top and lower rear. iii) Ensure hinge mounting bracket edges are flush with inside door frame and transfer hinge bolt hole locations onto plastic panels. Remove panels and drill holes using ¼” bit. Re-install panels and shoulder screws onto vehicle. iv) Mount hinges as shown (Fig.6) with (8) ¼-20 x 5/8″ Lg. Flat Head screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

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