Kawasaki ZX-14 Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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1) Tools needed: 36mm socket / 32mm socket / 5mm Allen wrench / cordless drill / tap handle / hammer / razor blade. 2) The frame bracket serves as the drilling guide and we provide the transfer punch, tap, drill and step by step instructions for a relatively easy installation. However, do not attempt this installation unless you are skilled enough and confident that you can drill and tap (2) holes in your frame. We’ve also provided a picture of what it will look like should you decide to sell this bike later on, with your stabilizer removed. Follow these guidelines and you’ll find it’s quite easy. 3) Some photos may not be your exact bike but depict the idea of what needs to be done. 4) It is important to use Blue Loc-tite on all fasteners if you expect them to stay tight. 5) Cover the gas tank area with something substantial to protect the paint, in case of a slip. An old sweatshirt works well. It’s cheap insurance to actually just remove the tank shroud to avoid an accident. 6) Remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight. Make a note of how tight it is. 7) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount) over the steering stem allowing it to match the exact shape of the triple clamp, with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp. (See photo). 8) Install the new 32mm aluminum nut supplied in the kit (without any washer) with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 65ft. lbs. or more. (Check your manual for the recommended torque setting of this nut). 9) There is a slight amount of play in the “register” that fits over the back of the triple clamp to allow for variations in castings from the factory. If the TC mount tries to spin clockwise during tightening, which can misalign the stabilizer ever so slightly, you can slide something thin, like the edge of a razor blade, between the register and the back of the triple clamp to space it “just right” for alignment during tightening (see photo). Once it’s tight the razor blade will be stuck, so gently turn the 32mm socket as though you were going to loosen the nut but don’t actually loosen it. It will relieve enough pressure to allow the razor blade to come out. Double check your alignment again. 10) Remove the front tank mounting Allen bolt. Retain the stock washer that’s part of the rubber grommet. 11) Temporarily install the frame bracket and be sure the outer feet are touching or are very close to the frame. On rare occasions, the casting on the head tube prevents the feet from making contact. On these rare occasions you may have to slightly file the inner side of those feet until the bracket sits down flush. Not sure on this one? Call us. (note: 2007-on bikes have a larger casting area and early kits will not fit these late model bikes. All current kits now fit 2006-on)

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

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Honda VTX 1300 Motorcycles All Models Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-02-2011

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise the motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. · Rider’s Seat (to be re-installed without modification) · Passenger Seat (to be reinstalled without modification) NOTE: OEM front and rear seat mounting bolts and brackets to be retained and reused. · Left and right passenger foot rests. (to be re-installed later). · Mufflers (to be re-installed and relocated with minor modification) · Rear Fender (complete w/ sub frame and all attaching parts) · Swing Arm, Drive Shaft and Rear Wheel (complete w/ all attaching parts) · Rear brake Line to hard line in front of the Swing Arm. Core Return There are NO core return parts for this model Installation of Champion Trike Conversion Kit 3.1 Modify Frame and Passenger Footrests. a. Cut and remove passenger foot rest mount from OEM frame on both sides (left hand side picture shown) . Figure 1 b. Clean cut frame and paint black. c. Remove and secure Charcoal Canister. d. Cut and remove charcoal canister frame bracket. Figure 2 e. Clean cut frame and paint black f. Install supplied Canister/Regulator bracket with supplied hardware. Figure 3. Make sure the hoses/electrical wires are routed underneath the bracket as shown. Figure 4 Qty Description 2 3/8-24×1-3/4 hex head bolt 4 3/8 SAE flat washers 2 3/8-24 Nyloc nuts g. Install Canister and Regulator with supplied hardware. Figure 4 Qty Description 4 ¼-20×1-1/4 hex head bolt 8 ¼ SAE flat washers 4 1/4-20 Nyloc nuts

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL REAR LOWERING KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare the Motorcycle 1. Follow the Service Manual instructions to remove the seat. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable from the battery. 3. Place motorcycle on a lift and secure the front wheel. 4. Use an overhead crane or hoist attached to the frame to lift the rear of the motorcycle to allow the rear fork to pivot through its range of travel. 5. Place a screw jack under the rear wheel to support and adjust the rear fork during shock removal, installation and ride height adjustment. Be sure rear wheel is supported when removing rear shocks. If wheel is not supported rear fork can drop down, which could result in death or serious injury. (00481b) Removal 1. See Figure 1. Remove the bolt and washer (1) that fasten each of the shock absorbers (2) to the rear fork. NOTE Snap-on Tool Co. adapter, Part Number SRES 24, is necessary to gain access to the shock absorber bolts. 2. Remove the flanged locknut (6) and cup washer with grommet (5) fastening the shock absorber to the frame bracket (4) and remove the shock absorber. 3. Remove, inspect and, if necessary, replace the rubber grommets, the cup washers (5), and the bushing (3). 4. Repeat for the other shock absorber. Disassemble the Shock 1. Thoroughly clean the rear fork end of the shock, especially near the shock canister seal. 2. Support the rear fork end of the shock absorber and shock canister on the table of a press. 3. Press on the shaft to compress the spring in the canister until the keeper plate drops down away from the retaining ring.

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Honda VTX 1300 Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise the motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. · Rider’s Seat (to be re-installed without modification) · Passenger Seat (to be reinstalled without modification) NOTE: OEM front and rear seat mounting bolts and brackets to be retained and reused. · Left and right passenger foot rests. (to be re-installed later). · Mufflers (to be re-installed and relocated with minor modification) · Rear Fender (complete w/ sub frame and all attaching parts) · Swing Arm, Drive Shaft and Rear Wheel (complete w/ all attaching parts) · Rear brake Line to hard line in front of the Swing Arm. Core Return There are NO core return parts for this model. Honda VTX 1300 TRIKE CONVERSION CHAMPION TRIKES Installation Manual Page 7 of 16 Revision 2 3 Installation of Champion Trike Conversion Kit 3.1 Modify Frame and Passenger Footrests. a. Cut and remove passenger foot rest mount from OEM frame on both sides (left hand side picture shown) . Figure 1 b. Clean cut frame and paint black. c. Remove and secure Charcoal Canister. d. Cut and remove charcoal canister frame bracket. Figure 2 e. Clean cut frame and paint black

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2000-2002 Aprilia Falco INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory varies quite a bit from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either part. 4) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2919-00 into the recess area where the stock, Allen-head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 knubs that hang downward, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the 14mm Allen nut, without any washer, to your factory specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and a maximum of 85 ft.lbs. 5) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! 6) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts and washers. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 7) Install the frame bracket (part #22-8636-00) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. Make sure it does not make contact with the triple clamp. We’ve machined a recess on one side of this bracket to allow for extra clearance (see photo below). The casting ridge on the back of your triple clamp can vary from bike to bike, which might require some slight filing of that ridged seam to avoid contact with our frame bracket. 8) Now check to be sure the tower pin is not abrazing the tank. The tank mounts are adjustable, try to position the tank so nothing is touching. In some rare cases you might have to elongate the rear tank mounting brackets to allow clearance at the front. Use Loc-tite on the longer Allen bolts supplied and tighten the frame bracket 9) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 10) Since the tank is rubber mounted, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 11) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

2000-2002 Aprilia Mille INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory tolerances vary from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 4) Install the frame bracket (part #22-6036-03) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. The frame bracket sits on top of the stock tank spacers. The frame bracket is offset. This means it fits correctly only one way, with the offset toward the triple clamp, part numbers facing forward, (see photo below). Due to the tight clearances on this model you’ll want to be sure the frame bracket does not make contact with the tank itself. It’s easier to start the tank bolts if you lift up on the tank slightly, while starting the new bolts into their threaded hole. Tighten the new tank bolts to 6 ft lbs. and use Loc-tite. 5) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either one. 6) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2925-00 into the recess area where the stock Allen head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or built-in-washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 nubs that hang down, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the new 14mm Allen nut provided to your factory torque specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and maximum of 85 ft. lbs. Do not use the stock washer that was under the original 14mm nut. 7) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! It should not touch the gas tank on the bottom side. 8) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 9) Since the tank is rubber mounted at the rear, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 10) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

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1996-2003 KAWASAKI ZX7R INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) It is mandatory to use blue Loc-tite on all bolts. We promise they will come loose if you don’t. 2) Remove the large nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. Install the new nut that we provide which has HEX drive facing UP. You will NOT use the stock washer. 3) Torque the new nut to your factory recommended setting as they vary. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the new triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (the small knub) indexing into the matching groove on the top, back of your stock triple clamp. The knub insures the mount cannot spin should the damper try to loosen the main nut. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the Scotts triple clamp nut. The groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the set screws are tightened, it will suck the TC mount down against your triple clamp. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 7) Using blue loc-tite on the setscrews, run them all in against the nut equally and then proceed to tighten each one making your way around until they are all equally tight. They should be checked after the first ride as normally they will settle into the groove in the nut and require tightening. 8) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 9) Remove the two, stock-front tank retaining bolts. You will replace these with longer ones in the kit. 10) Install the new “frame bracket tower”. There is a front and back to this part, note the picture! 11) Install the longer tank bolts supplied, through our frame bracket and into your tank mounting holes. 12) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole. It is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin and hole portion greased lightly. 13) Install the damper using the (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 14) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit is a good starting point, usually 8 clicks out on the base valve. 15) The base valve controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted