1999-2001 Harley-Davidson Twin Cam 88 FI Controller Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-03-2012

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Remove the seat. Remove or raise the fuel tank. The tank needs to be raised enough to give access to the fuel injectors and TPS wires. Unplug the front injector. On the FI Controller, there are 2 pairs of injector connectors. Plug the pair with the orange wires into the front cylinder injector harness and front cylinder injector. Repeat this using the other connector pair and the rear cylinder injector. Locate the TPS connector behind the throttle body. STEP 1 STEP3 STEP2 Installation Part# DFCH-2 2 Rear Cylinder Injector Front Cylinder Injector TPS Connector STEP 3 STEP 2 STEP1 Unplug the connector from the TPS. Crimp the wire tap onto the wire that is grey with a purple stripe. This wire should be in position “C” on the connector. Plug the grey wire from the FI Controller into the wire tap. Run the wiring harness for the FI Controller from the engine to the seat. Make sure that it will not get damaged when you reinstall the tank. Use one of the wire ties to tie the wires to the frame, away from the cylinder head. Place the FI Controller where you plan on mounting it permanently. In most cases, this will be under the seat. Connect the ground lug (black wire) to a grounding point on the bike. Use the Velcro tape to mount the FI Controller in position. Use alcohol swab to clean mounting surface prior to attaching Velcro. Reinstall fuel tank and seat. STEP 4 STEP 6 STEP 5 STEP4 STEP6 STEP5 Installation Part# DFCH-2 3 FI Controller
For Tech Support: 800.928.3962 Controls The FI Controller is preprogrammed with 4 base fuel curves. The curves are selected using the switch labeled BASE. These curves adjust fuel delivery based on throttle position and RPM, providing the right amount of fuel under all conditions. The 4 fuel curves correspond to varying levels of performance modifications. The levels of modification are broken down into the following groups. Base Curve 1 – Stock or basic modifications. This includes slip on exhausts, intakes, air boxes, and air filters. It will also work for headers or full exhaust systems. Base Curve 2 – Motor upgrades. This includes cams, 95 ci motors. Base Curve 3 – More extensive motor upgrades. This includes 103 ci motors, cams, ported heads

Harley Davidson BoonDocker Nitrous System Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2012

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BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 2 of 10 This manifold is also designed to vary the float bowl pressure in relation to nitrous pressure, thus keeping the nitrous and fuel delivery in sync. Fluctuations in bottle temperature greatly affect nitrous pressure, which affects nitrous delivery. By automatically adjusting the fuel delivery as nitrous pressure varies, this manifold makes nitrous safe, reliable, and easy to use. Be sure to understand and follow the tuning instructions at the end of these instructions. Proper tuning is an important part of any performance-enhancing product. Part I – Bottle Installation A. Bottle Valve Fittings Insert the 4AN x 1/8″ NPT fitting and the 1/8″ NPT Plug into the bottle valve (these are attached to the lid of the box for the bottle) . Use Teflon tape to seal the threads – be sure not to get tape inside the threads! B. Bottle Mounting Position With nitrous in the bottle, both nitrous liquid and nitrous gas are present under high pressure (760 psi at 70 deg F) . Due to gravity and acceleration forces, the liquid portion of the nitrous will be at the bottom and rearward parts of the bottle. For this nitrous system to work properly, it is important that nitrous liquid be drawn from the bottle. Nitrous vapor will cause a significant decrease in performance. For best results, the bottle should be mounted so the valve is pointed down and towards the back of the vehicle as shown below. ************** *************** ******** ********* *************** (can be installed on top or bottom of air boot) ********** ********* push-button switch (mounts on handlebar) +12 V *********** ************ **** ****** *! “**#$******%* *! “**#$*#*%* 20 deg to 90 Front of motorcycle Rear of motorcycle BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 3 of 10 Bottle mounted inside airbox: For some applications, a small bottle can be mounted inside the airbox as shown. Note: because of the restricted space, it was necessary to mount this bottle at a non-optimal angle (the valve is pointed towards the front instead of the rear)

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Honda TRX 450R BoonDocker Nitrous System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 12-12-2011

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This nitrous manifold greatly simplifies the way extra fuel is delivered that is needed for nitrous use. The carburetor vents
are connected to this manifold, allowing the carburetor(s) to breathe normally through the airbox when nitrous is not used.
When nitrous is sprayed, the manifold produces a positive pressure that goes to the carburetor float bowl, which “pushes”
more fuel through the main jet of the carburetor(s). This eliminates the need for an extra fuel pump, fuel solenoid, extra
plumbing, and nozzle(s) that are necessary to inject the extra fuel in other systems.This manifold is also designed to vary the float bowl pressure in relation to nitrous pressure, thus keeping the nitrous and fuel delivery in sync. Fluctuations in bottle temperature greatly affect nitrous pressure, which affects nitrous delivery. By automatically adjusting the fuel delivery as nitrous pressure varies, this manifold makes nitrous safe, reliable, and easy to use. The valve shown in picture (A) will require both the 4an x 1/8 npt fitting and the 1/8 npt plug. The valve shown in picture (B) will only need the 4an x 1/8 npt fitting. Use thread sealant on these fittings, be sure not to get any sealant inside the valve. Remove the upper mounting bolts on the front bumper. Install bracket support strap and reinstall the mounting bolts. 2. Install rear strap mounts over frame tubes. 3. Attach saddle bracket to support brackets, front and rear using supplied hardware.

SUZUKI VZR1800K6 And VZR1800/ ZK7 FUEL DELIVERY PIPE REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-11-2010

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NOTE: The fuel delivery pipe assembly can be removed from the throttle body without removing the throttle body assembly from the motorcycle. 1) Refer to section 6 of the service manual to remove the fuel tank and the air cleaner box. Place shop rags over the bore of each throttle body to prevent anything from falling into the engine through the throttle bodies. 2) Remove the wire harness clamp, disconnect the fuel injector couplers A and move the harness aside. 3) Remove the four fuel delivery pipe assembly mounting screws and remove the fuel delivery pipe assembly. 4) Replace the o-rings and seals with the new parts supplied in the kit (apply a small amount of engine oil to the o-rings and seals to ease the installation of the injector). To prevent damage to the o-rings or seals, don’t turn the injector when pushing it into the fuel delivery pipe and throttle body respectively. Install the new fuel delivery pipe assembly in the reverse order of removal. 5) Connect the fuel injector couplers A and clamp the injector harness to the fuel delivery pipe. DO NOT overtighten the harness clamp. 6) Connect the fuel tank, remove the shop rags from over the bore of each throttle body, and run the engine, checking for fuel leaks. DO NOT reuse the original fuel hose connector retainer. Confirm that the fuel hose connector has completely seated and locked (clicked) into position before turning on the ignition switch. 7) Refer to section 6 of the service manual to install the air cleaner box and the fuel tank. 8) Test ride the motorcycle to confirm proper operation. FUEL DELIVERY PIPE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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FC designed and built solely for Victory Motorcycles Installation

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove gas tank as per service manual procedure 2. Disconnect negative lead from battery 3. Determine a location for the VFC III unit. Suggested locations are as follows: on left or right side under the covers, on top or side of battery, on inside of the side covers, on PCM or under seat 4. Locate rear injector, disconnect factory connection using care not to break it, the red tab must be lifted first and then push the release to remove plug. Plug it into the female end of the VFC, Then plug the male end of the VFC into the injector. 5. Locate connection of front jumper harness- it is located on the right side of frame – in the center of air box. Disconnect and plug appropriate VFC connectors in place. 6. Zip tie harness so that it is free from being contacted 7. Install gas tank and connect ground terminal of VFC along with the factory ground lead. Note, On Vegas, Kingpin, Jackpot & Hammer Models. Be sure not to pinch VFC harness under rear tank mounting bracket, the harness must run on the side of or under the frame in this area as not to contact the rear tank mount. 8. Turn the motorcycle key to the “ON” position, after fuel pump cycles the Green / Red lights will flash and will remain flashing until an injector signal is detected, this occurs when the M/C is started. Once running the green will scroll for 4 seconds and then turn solid until another circuit is activated. Some 2000-20001 bikes will not light the box until started. The module controls your basic fuel adjustments and your fuel delivery for the Nitrous when activated. The following functions and colors that represent them are as follows. Basic Module description and adjustments ; the module has 3 button adjustments, Center is the mode selector, this scrolls through and chooses the feature that you want to adjust. To the left of it is the button in which minus’s in value the selected feature. To the right of the mode button is the plus button which makes the feature selected go higher in value. If a fuel feature is selected the minus button will diminish fuel down to the lowest level of the current download and plus will add fuel up to the maximum amount calibrated into the module. There are 8 LED lights on the front panel with 15 points of adjustment ranging from 0 to 8 in increments of .5 or 1/2 . Ex. 1 – 1.5 – 2 – 2.5 – 3 – 3.5 – 4 – 4.5 – 5 – 5.5 – 6 – 6.5 – 7 – 7.5 – 8

Carbureted vs. Fuel Injected Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-10-2010

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fuel injection (FI) systems have been around since the 1950′s and became widely used in cars during the 80′s. By the 1990′s all cars sold in the United States were equipped with FI systems, and though motorcycle manufacturers have included FI systems with some models as early as 1982, it isn’t until recently that the industry has seen wide spread use of FI. Since a lot of people come into my shop with questions about FI, I thought I would point out some of the differences between FI and carbureted systems as well as the benefits and disadvantages of both. A carbureted system is a mechanical system using air pressure to control the flow of fuel through the system. There are three basic parts in a carburetor, the throttle valve, the venturi and the float bowl. The throttle valve controls the amount of air that flows into the throat of the carburetor also known as the venturi which is simply a tapered hole through the carburetor body. As the venturi narrows, air moving through it is forced to speed up creating low pressure inside the carburetor. In a siphoning effect as the air tries to equalize the pressure, fuel is drawn in from the float bowl mixing with the air before entering the engine. The wider open the throttle valve, the more air will flow, drawing more fuel. A number of circuits are built into the carburetor in order to control the amount of air/fuel being drawn into the engine. In this context a circuit refers to a fuel passageway as opposed to an electrical circuit. In fact, nothing electrical controls fuel delivery in a carbureted system, it is all based on fluid flow, vacuum and hydraulics. The different circuits represent various throttle positions such as idle, partially open and fully open, and each of these circuits can be tuned to modify the efficiency of fuel delivery to the system. Fuel injection (FI) systems, on the other hand, rely on an electronic fuel pump to deliver fuel. The fuel pump delivers fuel at around 50psi as opposed to carbureted systems at normal atmospheric pressure of about 15psi. When the fuel reaches the injectors, the higher pressure allows much finer atomization (creating mist) of the fuel. The injectors then spray the atomized fuel into the intake manifold in a uniform conical pattern. The uniform pattern and fine atomization of the fuel spray increase the efficiency in which it is burned