Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 17-03-2012
1. Before removing the stock exhaust system note orientation particularly of the support bar between the two muffl er bodies (Figure 1) and the muffl er clamps. If necessary, using tape or another easily removable means, note the orientation on the stock support to ease re-installation. 2. Remove the four 1/2″ lock nuts that hold the support bar to the stock muffl ers and remove the stock support bar and bolts (set the nuts. bolts and support bar aside as they will be used later). 3. Using the 9/16″ deep socket, loosen the clamps holding the muffl ers onto the head pipes and remove the muffl ers from the head pipes. NOTE: May require assistance and the use of penetrating oil. 4. The stock muffl er clamps may be re-used. However Vance & Hines recommends replacing them with new clamps (Harley part number 65283-94). If using the stock clamps, be sure the T-Bolt does not twist out of the groove during tightening. This could allow the clamp to loosen with use
Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 04-03-2012
1. Each bike varies with regard to welds and gussets. Review the photos first to get the idea of what needs to be done. 2. These photos may not be your exact model but depict the concept of what must be done. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp so the tire cannot move at all. See photos. 4. Support the rear tire also, just enough to keep tension on the front tire so the forks stay tight. 5. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike AND it happens very quickly . 6. The main triple clamp nut adjusts the tension on the steering head bearings. Make note of its tension before removing and do not over tighten the nut. It should be seated just enough to take the play out of the bearing.. 7. The top of the gauge/light cluster is mounted to the top triple clamp. You have to take out 4 self tapping Phillips head screws to remove the gauge pod. There is one connector on the back side of that and then it comes off. Then there are two bolts that need to come out with an 8mm wrench to free the top triple clamp. 8. Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolt under the main nut and forks pinch bolts and remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten it to the exact amount. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal making note of how the seal goes on, (lips face downward). 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts!). 10. The goal is to allow the frame bracket to clamp cleanly and squarely around the upper half of the head tube. 11. Review your individual bike’s welding characteristics at the head tube. You’ll notice on the head tube there is a “groove” machined 360 degrees around the head tube. Everything in or above this groove must be clean of welds or slag. If this groove is visible all the way around and no welding slag has extended upward into or past this groove, then you’re installation should be easy. Any welds extending into or above this groove must be filed away, but without changing the clamping area diameter. DO NOT file away the paint on the clamping area if possible. Spend a little more time filing carefully and your bracket will stay tight. 12. Each bike seems to have not only different welds, but slightly different gussets. Evaluate your individual bike to determine the best fit. The bracket must clamp squarely and cleanly to the area just above that groove and yet SIT FLUSH all the way around the diameter of the head tube as per the photo in the lower right corner. Do not allow the bracket to protrude above the seal seating surface. Use a flashlight to see up under the bracket where it’s hitting if it’s not Flush. This bracket has clearance cut into it to clear the backbone of the frame
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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2012
See Figure 1. Place a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and the lever bracket. 5. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to loosen the brake hand lever/master cylinder assembly and remove the right-side upper and lower switch housing sub-assemblies from the handlebar. It is not necessary to remove the throttle control grip. For FLHR models: Refer to the service manual. Disconnect the left-side handlebar MOLEX socket housing from the gray eight-way main harness pin housing [24B] inside the headlamp nacelle. Refer to the service manual to remove the clutch hand lever and left-side upper and lower switch housing subassemblies from the handlebar. 6. For ALL models: See Figure 2. The friction shoe (1) is a loose fit on the end of the tension adjuster screw (2). Make sure the shoe has been removed with the switch housing sub-assemblies, and is not lodged in the groove of the throttle control grip (4). 3 4 1 2 is06318 1. Friction shoe 2. Tension adjuster screw 3. Right-side lower switch housing 4. Throttle control grip Figure 2. Throttle Tension Adjuster Screw and Friction Shoe 7. See Figure 1. Verify that the 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert is in place between the brake lever and the lever bracket. Obtain the new right-side handlebar switch housing assembly (Item 4 or 5, depending on model) from the kit. Separate the upper and lower halves of the housing assembly. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to install the switch housing assembly and brake hand lever/master cylinder assembly to the handlebar. 8. Route the right-side switch harness along the same path as the original harness (along the right handlebar). Connect the pin housing to the black socket housing disconnected in Step 3. 9. For FLHT, FLHTC, FLHX, FLHXXX and FLTRX models: Continue at Step 11. For FLHR models: Obtain the new left-side switch housing assembly (6) from the kit. Separate the upper and lower halves of the switch housing assembly. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to install the left-side switch housing assembly and clutch hand lever assembly to the handlebar. 10. Route the left-side hand control harness along the same path as the original harness (along the left handlebar). Connect the pin housing to the gray socket housing disconnected in Step 5
Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 28-01-2012
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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-01-2012
Q406.002 This is Groove # 1 Fig. A Fig. B Mixture Screw Remove Slide Plate Screws Remove The Lift Arm Screw 1. Remove top carb plate. Remove the slide lift arm screw and the two needle plate screws. Flip the linkage forward and remove the slide (Fig. A). 2. Install Dynojet needle on groove #4 for applications below 5000 feet, groove #3 for above 5000 feet, using all stock spacers. 3. Remove the stock main jet and replace with the Dynojet main jet provided. If you are running the stock exhaust, use the DJ134 below 3000 feet, DJ130 from 3000 to 6000 feet and DJ126 above 6000 feet. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust, use the DJ136 below 3000 feet, DJ132 from 3000 to 6000 feet and DJ128 above 6000 feet. Be sure that the jet you are changing is the main jet. Discard the plastic cup that is on the stock main jet. 4. Locate the Fuel Mixture Screw (Fig.B). Using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the mixture screw clockwise until it seats, then turn out 2 1/2 turns.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-01-2012
After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-04-2011
INSTALLATION Remove Existing Equipment 1. Remove existing footpeg and attaching hardware. 2. Remove chrome swingarm pivot covers, if so equipped. 3. Do not remove tool box, if so equipped. Install Passenger Footboard Support Kit 1. See Figure 1. Install footboard mounts (1) and (2) as fol- lows: a. Position footboard mount and insert screw (3) through part and into footpeg mounting hole. b. Position semi-circular cutout in mount extending from side of mount around nut of swingarm pivot bolt. c. Tighten screw (3) to 45-50 ft-lbs (61-67.8 Nm). 2. Position footboard support (4) on mounting stud so that bolt hole aligns with machined groove in stud. 3. Insert screw (5) through left side in split hub of footboard support. Thread into tapped hole (right side) of split hub. 4. Tighten screw (5) to 10 ft-lbs (13.6 Nm). 5. Place spring (6) into retaining hole in footboard support. Rest ball (7) on top of spring. 6. Refer to appropriate I-Sheet for instructions to install the footrest (A) and pivot pins (8) for your motorcycle
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011
Models This kit fits 1982 and later Touring and FL Softail model motorcycles. Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not Sold Separately Gear shifter shaft cover Not Sold Separately Screw, set There are no Service Parts available with this kit. INSTALLATION 1. Remove the stock heel shift lever from the gear shifter shaft. 2. Install the set screw into the gear shifter shaft cover. 3. Install gear shifter shaft cover with installed set screw over the end of the gear shifter shaft. 4. Tighten the set screw until light contact is made with the shaft groove. 5. Loosen the set screw slightly to allow the gear shifter shaft cover to rotate. Rotate the cover until the set screw faces down, then tighten the set screw.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011
REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove existing passenger footpegs and mounting hardware. 2. Remove chrome swingarm pivot covers, if equipped. 3. Do not remove tool boxes, if equipped. INSTALLATION NOTES To prevent damage to chrome surfaces, avoid contact with abrasive materials (stones, sand, etc.). Some paint removal from counterbore holes of footboard brackets may be necessary to ease the installation of the pivot pins. Install Left Footboard Mount and Bracket 1. See Figure 2. Position left footboard mount (1) and insert screw (2) through mount and into footpeg mounting hole. 2. Position semi-circular cutout in mount extending from side of mount around nut of swingarm pivot bolt. Tighten screw (2) to 35-45 ft-lbs (47-61 Nm). 3. Position left footboard bracket (3) on mounting stud so that bolt hole aligns with machined groove in stud. 4. Insert screw (4) through left side in split hub of footboard bracket. Thread into tapped hole (right side) of split hub. Tighten to 10 ft-lbs (13.6 Nm). Install Right Footboard Bracket 1. See Figure 2. Position right footboard bracket (5) onto muffler support bracket. 2. Secure footboard bracket with screw (6). Tighten to 35-45 ft-lbs (47-61 Nm). Install Left and Right Footboards NOTE The footboards are side specific. Install footboards with Bar and Shield logo toward the front. 1. See Figure 2. Place footboard pad (7, 8) on footboard bottom (9, 10) and thread the pivot pins (11, 12). 2. Tighten pivot pins to 60-68 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm). 3. Place spring (13) into retaining hole in footboard bracket (3, 5). Rest Delrin® ball (14) on top of spring. 4. Position footboard bottom (9, 10) onto footboard bracket in the down position while being careful not to unseat the ball. 5. Tighten pivot pins to 12-15 ft-lbs (16.3-20 Nm). 6. Press down on footboard assembly so holes align. 7. Insert mounting pins (15) in footboard bottom (9, 10) into corresponding holes in footboard pad (7, 8).
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011
LEFT GRIP REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Using a T27 TORX® drive head, remove the two screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp (3) to the clutch lever bracket. Remove the clamp, and position the clutch hand lever assembly away from the handlebar. 2. Using a T25 TORX drive head, loosen but do not remove the upper and lower switch housing screws (1). 3. Remove the end cap from the existing left hand grip if so equipped. With “glueless” grip: Remove the grip from the han- dlebar. With glued grip: Remove the grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. NOTE Make sure that the handlebar surface and the inside of the new grip are smooth, dry and thoroughly cleaned of all dirt or adhesive residue. Do not lubricate left handlebar grip before installation. Lubricating grip can cause it to come off while riding, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00315a) 4. Position the new left grip (4) so the larger diameter portion of the flange (5) is at the bottom. Push the grip fully onto the handlebar. 5. Fit the grooves (2) on the outboard side of the upper and lower switch housing over the flanges on the end of the grip, then loosely fasten the two screws. 6. Position the clutch hand lever assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the bottom of the clutch lever bracket. 7. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the clutch lever bracket, and loosely fasten the two screws with flat washers. Adjust the switch housing and clutch hand control position for rider comfort. 8. Using a T27 TORX drive head, tighten first the upper, then the lower handlebar clamp screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8- 9.0 Nm). 9. Using a T25 TORX drive head, tighten first the lower, then the upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm)