KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

YAMAHA YZF R6T/ YZF R6TC SPECIFICATIONS AND SUPPLEMENTARY SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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This Supplementary Service Manual has been prepared to introduce new service and data for the,YZF-R6T / YZF-R6TC. For complete service information procedures it is necessary to use this Sup- plementary Service Manual together with the following manual. YZF-R6R / YZF-R6SR / YZF-R6RC / YZF-R6SRC SERVICE MANUAL: CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUES NOTE: 1. Insert the front wheel axle from the rightside and tighten it with the flange bolt from the left side to 91 Nm (9.1 m•kg, 66 ft•lb). 2. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without perform ing temporary tightening. 3. Check that the end face of the axle head and the end face of the fork side are flush- mounted. If they are out of alignment, make sure to fit them by adding the external force by hand or with a plastic hammer, etc. If the end face of the axle is not parallel to the end face of the fork, align them so that one point of the axle circumference is positioned on the end face of the fork. At this stage, it can be accepted if the end face of the axle becomes partially concave to the end face of the fork. 4. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without performing temporary tightening

HARLEY DAVIDSON ILLUMINATED CHROME COVER KIT FOR FAIRING MOUNT MIRRORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

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INSTALLATION Preparation Models with main fuse: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions given to remove the main fuse. Models with main circuit breaker: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the negative (black) battery cable from the negative (-) battery terminal. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Installation NOTE Cover the work surface with an H-D Service Cover or clean shop towels to prevent scratching the finish of the outer fairing. 1. Remove the outer fairing per the instructions in the service manual. Lay the fairing face down on a sturdy work sur- face. 2. See Figure 2. Remove the mirrors (2), flange nuts (3) and plastic backing plates (4) securing the mirrors to each side of the inner fairing (1), and retain all items 3. Measure one inch (25 mm) straight down (5) from the large mirror stud hole in the inner fairing, and make a mark. 4. Drill a 1/4 inch (6 mm) diameter hole (6) through the inner fairing at the mark. 5. See Figure 1. Obtain a chrome wire collar (3) from the kit, and press it into the new hole from the outside of the inner fairing. Gently tap into place with a soft-faced hammer. 6. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 on the opposite side of the inner fairing. NOTE Ambient temperature should be at least 50 °F (10 °C) for proper adhesion of the mirror cover to the mirror. 7. Clean the back surface of the mirrors with the alcohol pad (7) provided. Allow to dry thoroughly. 8. Obtain the primer tube (8) from the kit, and follow the instructions on the tube to activate the primer. When the primer is activated apply the primer to the back surface of one mirror. 3 6 2 1 4 5 is06091 1. Inner fairing 2. Fairing mount mirror 3. Flange nut (2) 4. Plastic backing plate (2) 5. Measure one inch (25 mm) down 6. Drill 1/4 inch (6 mm) hole (2) Figure 2. Fairing Drill for Illuminated Mirror NOTE The Illuminated Chrome Mirror Covers are side-specific. The covers install with the wire harness exiting from the bottom. 9. Obtain the correct mirror cover from the kit. Rub the liners on the three pads on the back surface of the mirror cover to activate the adhesive, then remove the liners. 10. Place the mirror cover over the back surface of the mirror and press into place for a minimum of 60 seconds. 11. Repeat Steps 8 through 10 for the remaining mirror and cover. NOTE The plastic backing plates (removed earlier) are identified with a letter “L” (left) or “R” (right) stamped on the post. The mirrors are marked with a letter “L” or “R” stamped on the swivel block. Use the correct backing plate for each mirror by matching the letters. 12. Position the mirror on the outer face of the inner fairing, with the rounded side of the mirror outboard and the Bar & Shield logo upright. a. Insert the mirror cover wiring harness through the chrome wire collar installed in Step 5. b. Insert the mirror post through the original mirror mounting hole. c. Place the correct plastic backing plate against the inner face of the inner fairing, engaging the two holes in the backing plate with the threaded stud and index pin on the mirror swivel block. d. Install the flange nut on the threaded stud and tighten to 30-40 in-lbs (3.4-4.5 Nm) . e. Repeat for the remaining mirror on the other side of the fairing

ULTIMA 6 SPEED BUILDERS KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 03-03-2011

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DISASSEMBLY For 5 speed gear set removal refer to your factory service manual. You willneed to remove the main drive gear, main drive gear bearings, retaining clip & countershaft needle bearings. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm is notnecessary for 99 & earlier transmissions. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm isnecessary for 2000 & later transmissions. After trans. housing is disassembled thoroughly clean & inspect. ASSEMBLY For 2000 & later models removal of approximately 1/4 of an inch off of the shifter arm bushing is likely required. Doing so will allow installation of the retaining clip & washer onto the shifter arm. It is good practice to double check how much material should be removed before cutting the bushing. See fig. 1 & 2 Install supplied Main drive gear bearings & countershaft needle bearings using special tool # 97-164 NOTE: Lightly coat bearings with assembly lube or gear oil for easier installation. Install supplied Main drive gear retaining clip & verify that it is fully seated and cannot come out. Do not re-use old bearings or retaining clip. Install supplied Main drive gear into bearings using special tool # 97-166 See fig. 3 Install supplied trap door gasket & verify that it is on correctly. Install supplied 6 speed gear set making sure to align the countershaft with the needle bearing assembly. Slowly slide in gear set until the mainshaft & countershaft will not slide in any further. Lightly tapping on the trap door (while verifying that there is no interference) with a soft blow hammer will then fully seat the shafts & trap door. See fig. 4 Once gear set is installed use the supplied 5/16-18×1-1/2 & 1/4-20×1-1/2 bolts to secure the trap door. Torque the 5/16 bolts to 15 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) Torque the 1/4 bolts to 9 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) See fig. 5

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2008 SUZUKI GSX 1300 RK IGNITION SWITCH INSPECTION/ REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 29-11-2010

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INSPECT ROUTING 1. Remove the upper and lower meter panels (refer to Service Manual page 9D-15). 2. Check if the ignition switch lead wire is clamped and routed correctly. Incorrect positions are shown in Figures 1 and 2. Correct routing and clamping is shown in Figures 3 and 4 on page 5. REROUTING 1. Reroute the ignition switch lead wire correctly (Figure 3 and Figure 4). The ignition switch lead wire should not be covered by the other wire harnesses. 2. Turn the handlebars back and forth to verify that the steering operates smoothly and the wiring harness does not become kinked or pinched. 3. Proceed to PUNCH MARK AT VIN on page 8. from the motorcycle (refer to Service Manual page 1H-12). Remove the two black plastic covers to access the cylinder cap mounting bolts (Figure 5). Note: The black plastic covers will not be reused. Secure the mount area (bottom) of the ignition switch in a vise (Figure 6). NOTE: Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the key from the ignition switch before disassembling the switch. Remove the two “break-off” screws from the ignition switch using the special screwdriver. Set the stepped end of the sleeve on the special screwdriver facing toward the “break-off” screws (Figure 7). Strike the special screwdriver 5 to 7 times with a hammer to produce a deep enough groove on the screw head for the screwdriver to work properly (Figure 6). Pay attention not to hit other parts with the hammer. Turn to remove the “break-off” screws in a counterclockwise direction. If the groove becomes damaged, make another groove at a 90o angle to the original groove. Remove the ignition switch from the vise and hold it upright over the workbench and carefully remove the cylinder cap (Figure 8). NOTE: Pay close attention to the order and orientation of the ignition switch parts during disassembly. REPLACEMENT OF IGNITION SWITCH (Customer Sold Units/Dealer Demo Units- Only If Inspection Shows Incorrect Routing And Unit Has Been Ridden) New Ignition Switch Disassembly 2.

How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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Victory SIDEMOUNT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1.) Prior to actually installing the bracket, the first and most important thing to do is a “mock-up”. Attach your license plate to the bracket with any frames, etc. so you’ll be sure that you have the proper clearances. 2.) Since you may come into contact with the exhaust system or parts of it, make sure your pipes are cool and/or you’re wearing gloves. 3.) If you have access to a motorcycle lift or jack, USE IT! And use it properly; with safety straps or any other related equipment. If you don’t have a jack, be sure to do the install on flat and level ground and to chock the wheels appropriately. 4.) If your vehicle is not on a lift be advised that while removing the lower shock nut it may be under tension and to exercise care and the use of proper safety equipment, (in addition to gloves, eye protection is advisable). 5.) Mostly out of cosmetic concern, when first mounting the bracket, try it on in different positions, reinstall the shock nut just enough to hold the bracket in position and take a walk around your bike and see if you like the look. Some prefer the angle mount, others the straight up vertical, or even somewhere in between to match the lines of your bike. Once you’ve decided on a final mounting position, you’re ready to install the bracket. Please note, that if you have purchased the Victory Vegas/Kingpin or Victory Hammer/Jackpot sidemount, only one mounting location is possible. 6.) Please place the enclosed washer on the outside of the bracket, between the bracket and whatever locking nut you’re using. This is to provide a cushion between the bracket and the nut, so as to protect the chrome finish when tightening to the specified torque. Failure to use it will void your warranty. 7.) We highly recommend the use of a torque wrench to ensure proper installation. Since factory torque specification can vary from bike to bike, please check your owners manual prior to tightening or contact your local dealer for that information. For example, a Victory Vegas axle nut will require 65 foot pound of torque, while a Kawasaki Mean Streak shock nut will only require 22. Do not over-torque the fastener as you may damage the finish of the bracket, which, (as stated in the Conditions section of our web site), voids your right to refund/replacement.

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