240 tire V-Rod kit for stock swingarm Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-11-2010

download
Recommended Parts and Supplies 1. Sawzall or comparable cutting tool. 2. Cut-off tool or jigsaw. 3. Shop or repair manual 4. Shop supplies, (loctite-red and blue, anti-seize, etc.) 5. Assorted hand tools. 6. 4-1/2″ grinder. 7. Drive pulley seal HD part # 11354K (qty.1) 8. Copper cap locking plate HD part # 35451-01K (qty.1) (The seal and locking plate can be re-used if not damaged during removal) Stock component removal To install the 240 kit, it will be necessary to raise the motorcycle off the ground on a suitable lift. WARNING – Be sure to center the motorcycle on the lift so that it does not fall over when you raise it up or when you are working on it. Installation of the 240 kit begins with the disassembly and removal of the rear end of the bike. Start with the simplest and most obvious components. For detailed information on removal of these parts, consult your factory manual. 1. Remove rear wheel assembly and brake. 2. Remove swingarm. 3. Cut brake tab on swingarm (as pictured). 4 4. Clean up casting mark on inside of swingarm in pulley area (as pictured). 5 5. Remove and replace right side swingarm mount with mount included in kit. 6. Install swingarm with new supplied pivot shaft. 7. Install stock spacer on left side of shaft, use supplied stepped spacer between stock spacer and swingarm. (Small step toward bearing). 8. Remove front pulley, and disassemble. 9. Test fit ½” allen bolts in hub before removal. Some models require drilling for bolts to fit. If necessary, use ½” bit and drill before removing, minimal material will be removed. Take caution not to drill too deep and hit case. 6 10. Install supplied adapter on the back to space pulley out. (Use loctite on bolts, and assemble as pictured).

Incoming search terms:

Basic Motorcycle Maintenance/ Repair Manual

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

download
1. Types of Motorcycles and Components a. Identify off-road, street bikes, three and four wheel cycles. b. Identify motorcycle components. 2. Demonstrate Safe Working Habits in the Shop. a. Demonstrate, list, and discuss personal safety habits. b. Demonstrate, list, and discuss shop safety. 3. Correct use of Tools (common and measuring) and Equipment a. Perform work on cycles using proper hand tools. b. Perform work on cycles using shop equipment correctly. 4. Specifications in a Shop Manual a. Locate engine tune-up specification. b. Locate engine lubrication and cooling capacities. 5. Identify and Describe Different Types of Fasteners a. Threaded and non-threaded. b. Nuts, bolts, and washers. c. Metric and English. d. Strength and Grade. e. Thread inserts. 6. Identification and Description of Engine Fundamentals a. Basic two cycle engine. b. Basic four cycle engine. c. Displacement and compression ratios. d. Horsepower and torque. 7. Disassembly, Service, and Reassembly of the Components of the Clutch and Final Drive Assembly a. Remove, measure and replace clutch components. b. Clean, lubricate, and measure chain. c. Clean and measure sprockets. d. Adjust and align rear wheel. e. Discuss shaft drive. 8. Service of Brakes, Tires, and Wheel Assemblies a. Service and adjust drum brake. b. Service disc brake caliper. c. True a wheel by adjusting spokes. d. Replace or repair a tire. 9. Attitudes and Work Habits a. Identify and develop positive attitudes toward tasks and fellow employees appropriate for the workplace, including giving and accepting criticism and praise. b. Identify and develop productive work habits, including attending to detail, completing tasks, maintaining the work setting and recording data. c. Identify and develop collaborative/teamwork skills, including solving problems in groups, building consensus, and responding to supervision

Incoming search terms:

1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

0

Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

download
1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

Incoming search terms:

Harley Davidson Installing The Ride Time Ultra Progressive Tour Pak LED Tail Lights

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
Remove the light bulbs from the tail light housing by depressing the tab on the bulb socket assembly and turning counter clockwise. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 2. Remove the lenses from the warp-around light fixture. These lens are held in place by a non-hardening black sealant. In addition, there are three plastic alignment tabs on the lens body that clip into the lens frame. To remove the lens, insert the supplied push Stick through the hole in the back of the light bulb housing and gently but firmly push the lens outward. This action places a stress on the alignment tabs. 3 . Using a flat blade screw driver, pry the lens away from the frame at the top, side, and bottom to release the lens alignment tabs. Go back to step 2, and use the plastic tube to push the lens outward. It may be necessary to repeat the prying process and pushing process several times to remove the lens. Note: Some users have found it useful to heat the lens area with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive. Included in this kit are: Left and Right LED modules, 1 RTQC Quick Connect Accessory Cable , 2 RTV application sticks, 1 push stick, Approximately 3 inches of shrink tube, and 1 copy of instructions. Required for installation, but not included are: A tube of Permatex RTV (available at Wal-Mart), 1/8 inch drill bit, a drill, small flat blade screwdriver, other hand tools. Window/ body sealer if required to reseat lenses can be obtained at your local glass shop. Tour Pak, Harley Davidson, Electraglide, Raod King, and Ultraglide are registered trade marks of Harley David- son. Harley Davidson does not make or endorse the use of these lights. 4. When the lens begins to emerge from the frame, grasp it at the top and bottom and pull the lens from the housing using a up and down motion. Set the lens aside . Avoid having the sealant contact other surfaces. In most cases, the lens can be reinstalled without adding additional sealant . Note: Do not use RTV to reset the lens. If sealant is needed obtain a non-hardening body/windshield sealant from your local glass shop. 6. When you are comfortable with the location of the circuit board, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the back of the light housing. This hole will be used to bring the turn signal wire from the LED module into the Tour Pak. 7. Using the supplied stick, spread a thin layer of Permatex clear RTV silicone seal along the area where the circuit board will be located. Apply a similar layer to the top of the light housing. Route the turn signal wire through the 1/8″ hole and position the circuit board in the housing. Allow the RTV to cure. 5. Test fit the LED light board in the light housing.

Incoming search terms:

Harley Davidson V Rod turbocharger installation Introduction

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
The following procedures should be followed in the order they are listed to avoid extra work. The installation should take 8-10 hours. The tools you will need are standard hand tools. Included in the kit are all necessary drills and taps needed for the installation. Footnotes are provided to help with additional problems you might encounter. *Custom Performance has designed this turbocharger kit to provide usable, dependable horsepower for many trouble free miles. It was intended to make 8 lbs of boost on 91 or higher octane fuel. At this level the bike should make @ 160 horsepower. The MAP included on the CD and website is for this level of performance. If the customer chooses to increase the boost level, the fuel system will have to be remapped and other modifications may be needed to supply enough fuel for higher levels of performance. Also engine modifications may be needed to support higher levels of horsepower. Custom Performance does not recommend raising boost levels beyond the kit-preset levels unless you make the proper modifications. Expensive engine damage may result if these warning are not observed. With that said lets get started. *There are color pictures of the various steps and extra pictures for reference. Look them over as they will help show what each step will look like. There is a fuel and ignition MAP for the Harley race tuner that will be loaded after the installation but before you start the bike. The map is for 8 lbs of boost, which is what we recommend. If you increase boost level above the kit settings, the bike will need to be remapped to insure the engine doesn’t run dangerously lean, resulting in engine damage.

Incoming search terms: