Kawasaki Mule Roof 600, 610 and 4010 Trans Crew, Roof Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 02-05-2012

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INSTALLTION INSTRUCTIONS – Mule 600/610 (4010 Trans skip to pg 4) 1. Place Roof Panel on top of UTV Roll cage and center front to back, and left to right. 2. Using Figure 1 Below – place UTV Roof Mounting Brackets around roll cage bar and using a marker, mark the position of the holes needed in the roof for each Roof Mounting bracket . Figure 1 Copyright 2007 DiamondBack Automotive Accessories, Inc. Page 3 3. Next, remove the roof from the roll cage and using a drill with 1/4″ bit, drill holes using the marks as a guide. 4. Cut (4) 3″ strips of adhesive foam and apply to roof in where mounting brackets are positioned to prevent roof rattling once mounted. Foam should run in the direction of the roll cage as shown in Figure 1 above. 5. Next, reposition the roof on the roll cage according to step 1. 6. Prior to attaching the roof mount brackets, cut the remaining adhesive foam in half and apply one section to the roof in the center of the roof where roof and each roll cage bar meet as shown in Figures 1 above. If additional tape is required to prevent rattling it can be purchased from any hardware store as window sealant foam tape. 7. Next, attach the roof mount brackets according to Figure 2. Use channel locks or pliers to hold top of carriage bolt and turn nut with 7/16″ socket.

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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Honda VT1100C Shadow, Aero, Sabre SPECIFIC-FIT SADDLEBAGS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-04-2011

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The saddlebag supports are hinged 3 so they can adjust to any variance in your motorcycle’s fender strut bolt locations. The supports have a one-inch offset 4 that angles the supports outward so they space the bags away from the motorcycle’s chassis components, wheels, brakes, and moving parts. Before removing or changing any hardware, hold the supports next to the motorcycle to familiarize yourself with how they will be installed. Remove the original fender mounting bolts from one side of the fender strut and temporarily mount one support with a 10mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the front fender stay bolt hole. Then insert an 8mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the rear fender stay bolt hole. Verify that each bolt is the proper length. IMPORTANT: The VT1100 Shadow Classic, Aero, or Sabre models have 10mm (front) and 8mm (rear) threaded holes in the fender strut. Use care to not insert the wrong size mounting bolt in the strut. When installing a bolt into the fender strut, check to be sure that it does not extend inside the fender further than the original fasteners. If it does, the excess length of the bolt must be cut off, or exchanged for a shorter bolt you obtain from the hardware store or a motorcycle shop. After verifying the mounting bolts are the proper length, remove the support from the motorcycle’s fender strut. Install a grommet in each of the large holes 5 on the back side of each saddlebag. Then insert a plastic spacer 6 in each of the grommets TIP: Use soapy water to lubricate the grommets so they will slip into the holes in the bag. The vehicle images in this instruction set may be different than your motorcycle. Continued on next page… 3 Lay a support 7 (with the joint towards the rear of the bag) on the back of a bag. Temporarily put the mounting bolts 8 through the support’s holes and into the plas- tic spacers in the grommets. Place one of the support clips 9 over the center of the lower portion of the support, so the two holes in the clip align with the predrilled holes in the bag. Use the 3/16” screws and nuts from the hardware kit to attach the support clip to the backup plate inside the bag. Place the nuts on the outside of the bag. Do not over- tighten the hardware, as this may cause damage to the saddlebag. Remove the mounting bolts from the support and the plastic spacers

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1993-1999 Honda CBR900RR Frame Slider Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Some photos in this section are used for illustration examples only. It is up to you how you decide to cut your motorcycles bodywork to accept the frame slider there are many different ways customers go through this process. Shogun is not responsible for any part of your motorcycle for any reason. Precisely measure location of cut and if in doubt at any point please call us before the install process has begun. Professional installation is recommended. Always use proper safety measures during the install of this product. Do not try to install this product without proper tools, recently calibrated torque wrench, correct torque specifications from factory service manual, safety goggles and gloves. 2. Body Prep. Use masking tape to completely mask off the area on the body where you will be working. We usually will tape off approximately 6 to 8 inches around the though hole area and any other edges that could get bumped or scratched while working. Tip: In some locations you may want to double up the thickness of the masking take to give extra protection. 3. Locating and cutting the body. This is a simple illustration of how most of us install the product here. It takes a bit longer but our end results have been more consistent with a better overall fit and finish. We start with (99-SPOT-1012560) Shogun Spot tool. It’s nothing special just a 10mm socket cap bolt with a 1.25 pitch that we cut the head off of and sharpen to a point. You can purchase the tool for $12.99 or go to your local hardware store and make your own. Keep in mind Metric 10 or 12mm X 1.25 pitch bolts (most common sportbike engine studs) are fairly hard to find. Make sure you know the size and that the bolt you’re buying is a 1.25 pitch bolt. With the body removed, thread in by hand your spot tool. Make sure you have the spot tool screwed in enough to clear the body on the inside. 4. Loosely mount your bodywork and adjust the spot tool out to lightly touch the inside of the body. Make sure you have at least 15mm of thread engagement, without that the spot tool will tend to sag down giving you a false location. With the body mounted in the correct location use a soft micro fiber cloth over the spot tool location and softly tap to leave a spot mark on the inside of the body. Be careful not to scratch or chip the body

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