2006 Harley Davidson VROD / Screamin' Eagle VROD Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2012

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Check top clamp holding on rear heat shield be sure this is mounted forward not in middle of pipe. 2. Slide rear head pipe into collector and leave loose. 3. Mount head pipes into exhaust ports using stock Harley gaskets hand thread nuts onto head studs, leaving play in pipes. 4. Slip muffler onto collector and leave loose. 5. Slide D&D bracket included with kit onto chassis and muffler together. 6. Hand thread nuts onto chassis studs 7. Align muffler flush with bracket, hand thread bolts onto muffler.
8. Push system together tightly, Tighten rear head pipe collector clamp. 9. Holding muffler into place (finger width between shock bolt) tighten down muffler clamp all the way. 10. Snug (do not torque) chassis bracket bolts, snug muffler bolts until all is correctly aligned, then tighten down bolts. 11. Tighten head bolts down using factory torque specs, as you tighten the pipe check muffler clearance. If to close to swing arm push in on head pipe. If to far away push in on head pipe. 12. Once all is tight start bike and check for leaks This system is designed to be used with a high flow air filter and D&D VRDSEDD2.MT4 Race Tuner map.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SADDLEBAG HINGE STOP KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-04-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 2 and Table 1. Remove the saddlebag by opening the lid and turning the two bail head studs (1) 1/4 turn. Save the washers (A) and discard one of the studs (1). The rear stud and isolator will be replaced with new ones from the kit. NOTE Do Not remove the hinge assembly from the saddlebag lid. 2. See Figure 1. Drill the rivets out of the backing plate (C) from the lower rear saddlebag hinge. •Enlarge the backing plate holes by drilling with a #19 drill bit. 3. Remove the rear isolator and install the new rear isolator (2) from the kit to the saddlebag. NOTE It is recommended to use Loctite® 262, threadlocker and sealant on the threads of the hinge screws. 4. See Figure 2 and Table 1. Position the backing plate (C) inside the saddlebag and align with the rear hinge (B) and hinge stop (3) on the outside of the saddlebag. Assemble using the two TORX® head screws (5). 2 1 is05974 1. Rear hinge rivets (2) 2. Rear isolator Figure 1. Drill Out Rivets From Rear Hinge and Backing Plate 5. Install the saddlebag to the motorcycle using the longer bail head stud (1) from the kit and a washer for the rear of the saddlebag and the washer and front bail head stud previously removed for the front of the saddlebag. 6. Repeat steps 1-5 for the opposite saddlebag

1933 AJS 33- 7 OHC Trophy Owners Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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the cylinder head can then be lifted up and off. There is no Spigot or washer on the Cylinder Barrel, hut the Head must he lifted high enough to clear the two Cylinder Head studs. If the Cylinder Barrel is removed do not prise this from (he Crank-case but place the palms of the hands round the finning and rock the Cylinder from side to side and when it starts to leave the crank-case lift upwards. Do not let the connecting rod fall heavily against the mouth of the Crank-case or the crank-case face will be damaged. When removing the Piston, only withdraw one Gudgeon Pin Circlip with the special pliers provided and then either push the Gudgeon Pin out from the opposite side or insert a screw-driver inside the Gudgeon Pin and bear the screw-driver to one side and turn the Pin slowly out of the Piston Bosses. The Gudgeon Pin is a sliding fit in the Piston and Small End. When the Piston is removed either remember the correct original position indicated by the remaining Circlip, or take a sharp instrument and make a mark on the inside of the piston to indicate front and back ; be sure to replace the Piston in its original position, For the removal of the Valves we list a special tool costing 5s. 9d. Part No. XB3340; and for Valve Grinding a Small Tool costing 1s. 6d. Part No. XB.3360. The accompanying illustration shows the method of operation of both the valve extractor and the valve grinding tool; although the Cylinder Head shown does not of course belong to a Camshaft Model the operation is similar. For portability the valve extractor is made to fold. Be careful to see that the portion of the toot which depresses the valve spring collar is central before compressing the spring, otherwise it is almost impossible to remove the split cones. An important factor to watch when replacing the valve springs is that the collars are replaced underneath the valve springs. Whilst the cylinder head is dismantled remove the oil feed nipples to the valve guides to ascertain that these are clear; the inlet nipple, it will be noticed, is purposely restricted with a disc, so be careful to see that these nipples are replaced correctly.