Kawasaki ZX-14 Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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1) Tools needed: 36mm socket / 32mm socket / 5mm Allen wrench / cordless drill / tap handle / hammer / razor blade. 2) The frame bracket serves as the drilling guide and we provide the transfer punch, tap, drill and step by step instructions for a relatively easy installation. However, do not attempt this installation unless you are skilled enough and confident that you can drill and tap (2) holes in your frame. We’ve also provided a picture of what it will look like should you decide to sell this bike later on, with your stabilizer removed. Follow these guidelines and you’ll find it’s quite easy. 3) Some photos may not be your exact bike but depict the idea of what needs to be done. 4) It is important to use Blue Loc-tite on all fasteners if you expect them to stay tight. 5) Cover the gas tank area with something substantial to protect the paint, in case of a slip. An old sweatshirt works well. It’s cheap insurance to actually just remove the tank shroud to avoid an accident. 6) Remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight. Make a note of how tight it is. 7) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount) over the steering stem allowing it to match the exact shape of the triple clamp, with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp. (See photo). 8) Install the new 32mm aluminum nut supplied in the kit (without any washer) with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 65ft. lbs. or more. (Check your manual for the recommended torque setting of this nut). 9) There is a slight amount of play in the “register” that fits over the back of the triple clamp to allow for variations in castings from the factory. If the TC mount tries to spin clockwise during tightening, which can misalign the stabilizer ever so slightly, you can slide something thin, like the edge of a razor blade, between the register and the back of the triple clamp to space it “just right” for alignment during tightening (see photo). Once it’s tight the razor blade will be stuck, so gently turn the 32mm socket as though you were going to loosen the nut but don’t actually loosen it. It will relieve enough pressure to allow the razor blade to come out. Double check your alignment again. 10) Remove the front tank mounting Allen bolt. Retain the stock washer that’s part of the rubber grommet. 11) Temporarily install the frame bracket and be sure the outer feet are touching or are very close to the frame. On rare occasions, the casting on the head tube prevents the feet from making contact. On these rare occasions you may have to slightly file the inner side of those feet until the bracket sits down flush. Not sure on this one? Call us. (note: 2007-on bikes have a larger casting area and early kits will not fit these late model bikes. All current kits now fit 2006-on)

HARLEY DAVIDSON TIMKEN BEARING CONVERSION TOOL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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2-ton press (must be square to within .010″, ram to table) Inch-lb torque wrench Foot-lb torque wrench T15 TORX® drive socket (for inch-lb torque wrench) 5/32 inch hex drive socket (for inch-lb torque wrench) 5/16 inch hex drive socket (for foot-lb torque wrench) 5/64 inch hex key wrench 1/16 inch hex key wrench 3/8 inch drive hand drill small tap handle (suitable for #8-32 tap) Tapping Fluid Press Fit Lube (non-drip) Loctite® 620 threadlocker and sealant The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references service manual information. A service manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 21 and Table 3. If replacement parts are needed contact JIMS® at 805-482- 6913 or INSTALLATION 1. Remove and disassemble the engine as necessary to remove the left side engine case. Bearings and seals must be removed from the left case. Refer to the service manual for the disassembly procedures. 2. Use an appropriate solvent to clean the left engine case. Also clean the bearing sleeve (1) supplied in the kit. 3. Apply Loctite 620 to the smaller inside diameter portion of the left case bearing bore. 4. See Figure 1. Apply Loctite 620 using a cotton swab to the smaller portion of the outside diameter (2) surface of the bearing sleeve (1). 5. Apply a spare amount of non-drip press fit lube (3) to the larger outside diameter of the bearing sleeve. 6. See Figure 2. Fit the bottom locater plate (1) to the to the outside of the case over the bearing bore. The word “BOTTOM” will be at the bottom of the case when installed at the 6 o’clock position

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Triumph TT 600 Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 28-10-2010

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1) It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all setscrews and bolts or they will come loose. 2) Remove the stock 30mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight and discard them. 3) Install the new aluminum nut supplied in the kit with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 45 ft. lbs. or more. 4) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount), the part with 6 set screws in it , over the main triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp (see photo below). Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite, start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 5) Be sure this damper mounting bracket is setting flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the stock triple clamp. Due to the fact the stock triple clamp is cast, they could vary is size. Remove or trim around any obstructions that might prevent the TC mount from sitting down flush such as carbon fiber deco plates. 6) Loc-tite and engage the setscrew at the 12 o’clock (front) position first so it pulls the “register up against the back of your triple clamp. Do not tighten this setscrew, just snug it enough to secure the position of the TC mount. 7) Loc-tite and tighten the remaining setscrews evenly until they make contact with the groove and are secured tightly. It’s a good idea to check the setscrews after the first ride as they will seat into their final position and need re-tightening. 8) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 9) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 10) Remove the stock front fuel tank retaining bolt and washer. You must use the longer 6×30 bolt provided . 11) Retain the rubber bushing and the spacer-washer that fits inside the rubber bushing for your tank mount. 12) The gas tank mounting hole is actually off-center from the factory on this bike, by only 1mm or so, so our frame bracket has a slot instead of hole so you can make fine adjustments in the alignment of the frame bracket. 13) Install the frame bracket so the “feet” that contact the frame are positioned to match the frame. View the photo below to see how it should look and remain straight with the front edge of the gas tank. There is a front and back to this part. 14) We’ve machined this frame bracket precisely to match the Triumph frame, so as the bolt tightens up it will pre-load the frame bracket just enough to secure it tightly to the frame. 15) Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the frame bracket, put something between the tank and frame bracket to protect the tank. Each bike will vary as to how much movement there actually is under heavy braking 16) Grease the tower-pin lightly and drop it in the tower-pin hole. It is designed to “float”. Keep the hole and shaft portion of the tower pin greased for easy movement. 17) Install the stabilizer using (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 18) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls.

1996-2003 KAWASAKI ZX7R INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) It is mandatory to use blue Loc-tite on all bolts. We promise they will come loose if you don’t. 2) Remove the large nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. Install the new nut that we provide which has HEX drive facing UP. You will NOT use the stock washer. 3) Torque the new nut to your factory recommended setting as they vary. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the new triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (the small knub) indexing into the matching groove on the top, back of your stock triple clamp. The knub insures the mount cannot spin should the damper try to loosen the main nut. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the Scotts triple clamp nut. The groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the set screws are tightened, it will suck the TC mount down against your triple clamp. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 7) Using blue loc-tite on the setscrews, run them all in against the nut equally and then proceed to tighten each one making your way around until they are all equally tight. They should be checked after the first ride as normally they will settle into the groove in the nut and require tightening. 8) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 9) Remove the two, stock-front tank retaining bolts. You will replace these with longer ones in the kit. 10) Install the new “frame bracket tower”. There is a front and back to this part, note the picture! 11) Install the longer tank bolts supplied, through our frame bracket and into your tank mounting holes. 12) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole. It is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin and hole portion greased lightly. 13) Install the damper using the (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 14) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit is a good starting point, usually 8 clicks out on the base valve. 15) The base valve controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted

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