A Comparison of Stopping Distance Performance for Motorcycles Equipped with ABS, CBS and Conventional Hydraulic Brake Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-02-2012

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Surface Tests On the ABS-equipped motorcycles, the operator was tasked with braking sufficiently to assure the operation of the ABS. The measured stopping distance values were corrected to compare data from the speeds of 48 km/h and 128 km/h, except for the BMW F650 data, which was corrected to 48 km/h and 117 km/h, the latter figure limited by that model’s top speed of 157 km/h (i.e. 75% of 157 km/h). In the ABS-enabled mode, for each load/speed/brake combination, the stopping distances were very consistent from one run to another. In this mode, the braking force was applied in a controlled and consistent manner by the ABS mechanism. With the exception of having to react to the possibility of the rear wheel becoming airborne under high deceleration, the rider did not require significant experience or special skill in order to achieve a high level of performance. In the ABS-disabled mode, the stopping distances were less consistent because the rider while modulating the brake force, had to deal with many additional variables at the same time. Up to six runs were allowed for the rider to become familiar with the motorcycle’s behavior and to obtain the best stopping distance. Test results from non-ABS motorcycles were noticeably more sensitive to rider performance variability. The data in Table 2 include the best stopping distances obtained without ABS, compared to the average braking performance obtained with ABS. The average results were favored for presenting the performance with ABS because the best results could be more representative of threshold braking, whereby the ABS operated for only a portion of the entire test. Despite being compared to the best stopping distances without ABS, the average results with ABS provided an overall reduction in stopping distance of 5%. The stopping distance reduction was more significant when the motorcycle was loaded (averaging 7%). The greatest stopping distance reduction (averaging 17%) was observed when only the rear foot pedal was applied to stop the motorcycle from 128 km/h

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2000-2003 KTM MXC / EXC Dual Sport Kit Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 08-02-2012

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00-’03 KTM 400/450/520/525 EXC & MXC Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual 1. Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels. Stock switch Bracket Photo 2 EXC – Unplug and remove the stock headlight. (Photo 2.) Unplug the stock three-pin taillight connector and pull the taillight wires back to the rear of the airbox temporarily. MXC – Remove the stock front number plate. 3. Make sure the stock battery is oriented in its mounting bracket as shown with the positive terminal on the left side of the bike (as viewed if sitting on the bike). If not, remove and spin it 180 degrees. Photo 3
4. MXC ONLY! (EXC skip this step.) Locate the stock lighting wiring harness zip-tied under the frame back-bone (See Photo 4). Remove the securing zip-ties and route this wiring forward to the area behind the headlight. Route along right side of frame using factory wire- guide clamp. 5. Brake Light Switch Installation: The KTM kit uses a hydraulic brake-switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the stock banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch as shown. Make sure to install

KTM EXC / MXC DUAL SPORT KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 25-01-2012

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Using a small phillips head screwdriver, loosen the locking screw ( B ) on the kill switch ( C ). Remove any cable ties and unplug kill switch from existing wiring. Step 2 Loosen clutch cable perch ( D ) and move inboard about 1/2 inch. Important Note Regarding Magura Brakes The KTM uses the Magura hydraulic brake, which may cause potential interference between the turn switch and the lever adjuster. Make sure you have enough clearance between the parts. You can either move the grip out slightly, or take a file and sand away a small notch in the turn switch where it may rub. Install Turn Switch Step 1 Open and wrap the new turn switch ( E ) around handlebar and securely fasten with two screws ( F ) as shown. Make sure you have clearance between the grip, the switch and the lever! Step 2 Route turn switch wiring down and along handle bar behind Dakar headlight unit and in through frame cable guide. Secure switch wiring to handlebars with one cable tie. For more information, please refer to the Cable Routing Diagram

Yamaha WR 250F and WR450F Dual Sport Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-01-2012

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license Plate Mount Installation: Locate the aluminum license plate mount and license plate light assembly. Remove the rear most nut securing the stock taillight assembly (underneath the fender) (don’t lose the little compression tube and washer). Temporarily install the license plate mount to this location and mark the fender where it needs to be drilled for the rear mounts. Drill the fender in two places with a ¼” drill and reinstall the license plate assembly using the stock taillight mount and the 6 x 20 mm countersunk screws, bezels and nylock nuts Rear Turn Signal Installation: Locate the two rear turn signals in the kit – they’re the ones with the longer wires. Drill a 3/8 hole in each side of the fender as shown in Photo 3 and attach them as shown in Photo 4. It does no matter which signal goes on which side. Run the left turn signal wires forward along with the taillight wires, up through the grommet in the fender to the area just behind the air box cross member and above the fender. Run the right turn signal wires forward along the right frame rail, and through the same hole you made for the license plate wires Brake Light Switch Installation: The WR250/450 uses a hydraulic brake switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the rear master cylinder guard. Remove the bolt holding the brake fluid reservoir to provide access to the master cylinder. Loosen the banjo bolt securing the rear brake line to the master cylinder. Typically, this bolt will be very tight and loosening it will bend the support hanger for the master cylinder if not supported. Brace the master cylinder with a wrench or lever. Remove the banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch. Make sure to install the copper crush washer from the stock bolt under the switch. Torque the switch assembly to 25 lb-ft.

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME MASTER CYLINDER AND CLUTCH BRACKET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL See Figure 1. Master cylinders designed for dual disc (two caliper) operation have an 11/16 inch (17.5 mm) bore, while those that are designed for single disc (one caliper) operation have a 9/16 inch (14.3 mm) bore. The bore size is stamped (1) on the master cylinder assembly inboard of the handlebar clamp bracket. NOTE Do not use an 9/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on dual disc (two caliper) models or dual disc 11/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on single disc (one caliper) models. These master cylinder assemblies are not interchangeable. Using the wrong assembly can adversely affect braking efficiency or result in brake failure which could result in death or serious injury. D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1 is 01230 1. Bore stamp size location Figure 1. Verify Correct Master Cylinder Bore Size 1. Open bleeder nipple caps on front brake caliper. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valves, while placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder valves about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. Close bleeder valve. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s), brake line and master cylinder bore are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00322a) 2. Remove bolt and two steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 3. See Figure 2. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket

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HONDA 2002-2004 GL1800/A Linked Braking System (LBS) Proportional Control Valve (PCV) Leakage

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. Pump the rear brake pedal four times. •If the brake pedal feels spongy, bleed the brake system per the Service Manual. After verifying proper brake system operation, proceed to step 2 below. •If the brake pedal does not feel spongy, proceed to step 2 below. 2. Place the motorcycle on its side stand, with the handlebars in the full left position . Lock the handlebars. 3. Place a scissor jack directly under the left front brake caliper as shown in the illustration. To avoid damage to the caliper, place a protective piece of rubber (such as a piece of inner tube) between the caliper and the jack. Wind up the jack until the front wheel is approximately 15 mm off the ground. 4. Measure the distance from the secondary master cylinder piston mounting bolt to the edge of the secondary master cylinder body (rod length of the secondary master cylinder). Record this measurement . • If the measured length is 30.3 mm, replace the PCV per the Service Manual. (This length indicates the unit’s secondary master cylinder is fully stroked, which means there is no hydraulic brake pressure acting on the PCV.) After replacing the PCV, proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. •If the measured length is longer than 30.3 mm , proceed to step 5 below. • INSPECTION/REPAIR PROCEDURE Record this measurement. Pump the rear brake pedal four times.
GL1800/A #16 ©2005 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved 3 of 6 FEBRUARY 2005 5. Wait 30 minutes. Do not disturb the motorcycle in any way during this time. 6. Measure the distance again from the secondary master cylinder piston mounting bolt to the edge of the secondary master cylinder body (rod length of the secondary master cylinder). •If the measurement has decreased more than 1 mm from the measurement you recorded, proceed to step 7 below. •If the measurement is within 1 mm of the measurement you recorded, the PCV is OK. Proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. 7. Check the PCV for leakage. • If the PCV is leaking , replace the PCV per the Service Manual. After replacing the PCV, proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. • If the PCV is not leaking , you must diagnose the brake system problem before proceeding. After you have diagnosed and repaired the brake system, proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. NOTE: Any brake system problem not related to the PCV that is found while performing this Service Bulletin is not covered by this Safety Recall. If the motorcycle’s original factory warranty is still in effect or under HPP, file a normal warranty claim. If the unit is outside its factory warranty period or HPP coverage, contact TechLine for goodwill consideration. 8. Verify proper front and rear brake operation by pumping the front brake lever and rear brake pedal before riding the motorcycle

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