Harley-Davidson Road King Handlebar Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2012

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If the wire length appears to be too short, you will have to lengthen the wires. If that’s the case, I must stress that soldering your wires is far superior to using butt splices. Wiring can be pulled from the splices and the splices themselves will take up a lot of room, making your harness bulky. To extend your wires, ensure the wire segments you are going to splice into the harness are of the same gauge as the original harness. Also, it’s a good idea to cut all of the wire segments now, ahead of time, to the same measured length. This will ensure that once all of the new wire Figure 4. Handlebar harness plug wires as they appear from the back of the plug (where the wires enter the plug from the harness) segments are spliced in, all of the finished wires are of the same length and the pins are lined up. Work from wire to wire, cutting them by staggering the cuts about an inch or so apart (see figure 5). This will prevent a bulge in your harness where all the soldering connections are. After cutting each wire, slide on a two-inch piece of heat shrink tubing before starting your soldering. Remove about ¾” of insulation from the ends of the two wire ends (one wire end being the harness, the other being the segment of new wire being spliced in). Halfway down the length of its exposed section, bend each wire 90 degrees and hook the two wire segments together at the bends. Holding the wires securely with a pair of pliers, twist them in opposite directions around each other. Make sure the ends of the wires are wrapped as tight as possible so their sharp points will not cut through the heat shrink tubing when it’s applied. Apply some soldering flux (a little is all you need) and solder the connection by first applying your soldering iron (or gun) to the wire and then applying the solder to the wire. You should not apply the solder directly to the iron as overheating the solder can lead to poorly made solder joints and improper conduction of electricity. When the connection has cooled, slide your heat shrink tubing over the joint and heat it so that the tubing shrinks, making a nice tight seal.

Honda, Polaris (2000 and older) ATV Thumb Warmer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-12-2011

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Hi/Low Switch Installation Choose a location for the switch, which is convenient and has sufficient rear clearance for the electrical connections and is within 18″ of a voltage-controlled wire (a wire in the lighting circuit). Drill a 1/2″ (13mm) hole and install the switch from the back. Leave the strain relief nut on the switch. On the front install the Hi/Low indicator tab and secure the switch and tab using the metal nut. The amount of switch barrel protruding can be adjusted by moving the strain relief nut. Wire Routing and Connections Route the electric cord along the handlebar to switchmarea and secure with supplied tie wraps, electrical tape, or both. Cut and strip to proper length. Attach a ground wire of sufficient length to go from the red wire to a good ground. WARNING: Lead wire slack in the area of the throttle must be neither excessive nor tight. Ensure no binding occurs when the throttle is open fully.,Soldering connections is the most durable method, but the following will provide years of service. Attach the 1/4″ female slip-on connectors to the white and blue wires and #10 ring terminal to warmer leads as shown in Figure 2. (A crimping tool works best, but a Vise Grips or pliers will work). Figure 2. Switch Connections (Option B) Connect the single yellow or red wire to a regulated (lighting) circuit using Option A (ATV has a switch in a lighting circuit with a 1/4″ tab) or Option B: Option B: Locate a power wire (usually yellow) leading to a headlight, taillight, or dash light (Figure 2). Using the red tap connector, place this power wire into the continuous channel and insert the red wire (do not strip insulation) completely to stop in the second channel. Make the connection by squeezing (w/pliers) the metal contact until flush with the top of the connector. Close the hinged cover until latched. Complete connections to switch and ground circuit.

TOYOTA SPECIALTY AND REPLACEMENT PARTS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-09-2011

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73-3844 Replaces: 3977775, 3078511 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 2″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’64/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 79-5126 Replaces: 20064875 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 21/32″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’78/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5127 Replaces: 20030401 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 3/8″ Length: 1″ G.M. ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5100 Replaces: 388908-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-3/4″ Ford ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 74-3945 Replaces: 385330-S, 6003351 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION Ford & Chrysler Products ’73/ AMC 4005513 ’76 UNIT PACKAGE 100 92-7067 Replaces: 15678493, 21039141 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-9/16″ Length: 1/2″, Hole: 1/4″ Plastic Saturn ’91/ UNIT PACKAGE 25 67-3119 Replaces: 389809, C6GY-16776-A CLIP -HOOD INSULATION RETAINER 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ Plastic G.M., Ford Products UNIT PACKAGE 50 72-3718 Replaces: 389089 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION 2″ x 2″ Plastic G.M. Cars UNIT PACKAGE 50 99-8032 Replaces: 385595-S, 386553-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Plastic Formerly 74-3944 For Heavier Type Insulation Head: 1-3/16 Ford ’74/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7382 Replaces: N-803613-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Hole: 1/4″, Head: 1-3/4″ Stem Length: 7/8″ Plastic Ford Explorer ’91/, Taurus, Sable, Mustang, Continental ’92/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7369 Replaces: W700671-S300 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 25MM, Hole: 8MM Black Plastic Ford Contour & Mercury Mystique ’95/ UNIT PACKAGE 15 96-7577 Replaces: 01644290, 15678979, 01553-0075U RETAINER -SPEAKER, DOOR SILL, BUMPER, HOOD INSULATOR Black Plastic Hole: M6, Barb Length: 12MM Head Dia.: 11MM, O/L: 19MM G.M. Various Models ’86/, Nissan Altima & Maxima 2002/

2003 Honda ST1300/A Wire Harness Inspection and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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REPAIR PROCEDURE Note: While completing this procedure DO NOT disconnect the 2-pin connector unless repair of the wire harness is required. 1. If not previously done, complete the ST1300/A #1 Service Bulletin before starting this procedure. 2. Remove the seats, left saddlebag, and left side panel by following the instructions in section 2 of the Service /l/Ianua/on pages 2-5 and 2-6. 3. Secure the centerstand assist handle out of the way. 4. Remove the rear shock adjuster support bar top bolt and move the bar out of the way. 5. Locate the ignition cord leading to the 2P connector and check the two black and white wires for chafing. |GNlTl6N con BLACK AND WHITE WIRES Chafing V I may OOCUF _ in this area 2-PIN CONNECTOR 2of6 – If the insulation is still intact and copper wire is not showing, proceed to the Preventative Measure section of this bulletin. – lf copper wire is showig, wrap the exposed area of the wire with a good quality electrical tape and proceed to the Preventative Mea- sure section of this bulletin. Preventative Measure: 1. Place the length of PVC split tubing around the ignition cord, butting up against the con- nector. Rotate the split toward the inside of the motorcycle. 2. Use good quality electrical tape to cinch the end of the PVC split tubing together (at the end that is touching the 2-pin connector), together. Secure the PVC split tubing to the ignition cord at the other end with electrical tape. 3. Secure the ignition cord and wire harness cord to the rear sub-frame with a commer- cially available wire band. The 2-pin connector should be routed behind and to the rear of where the rear shock adjuster support bar is located. ~! IR ARNESS C R COR W EH O D

HARLEY DAVIDSON DETACHABLE QUARTER FAIRING AND DOCKING HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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Installation The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley- Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE If your motorcycle has directional lights mounted on the upper fork bracket they must be relocated to the bottom fork bracket. Some models have front directional lights equipped with three wires, the third black wire is a ground wire. Check to determine how many wires are connected to the front directional lights and follow the following procedure that applies. Ifdirectional lights are not mounted on the upper fork bracket proceed to “ASSEMBLING FAIRING”. Relocating Two Wire Directional Lights 1. Support motorcycle on a center stand such that front wheel is raised slightly off the ground. 2. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of lower bracket. 3. Cut wires connected to right directional light about 2 in. away from directional light body. 4. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of upper fork bracket. (This is the screw that secures the right directional light.) 5. Install right directional light on right side of lower fork bracket using pinch screw removed in step 4. Install pinch screw removed in step 2 into right side of upper bracket. Tighten both pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs. 6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to relocate left directional light. NOTE Fork tubes may slide downward within fork brackets. If this occurs, front fork tube extension above front fork upper bracket will have to be readjusted according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. 7. Connect the right directional light as follows: Strip approx. 5/16 in. of insulation from the wires cut in step 3. 8. Crimp solderless connectors from kit on two wires coming from motorcycle. 9. Split one end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 10. Slide a piece of shrink tubing from kit over each of the wire ends stripped in step 9 and crimp the wires into the terminals installed in step 8. Make sure you connect the silver and copper colored wires to like colored wires. NOTE Polarized wire is used in this application to ensure correct wiring. One wire is silver, one is copper colored. Wire colors of spliced wire must match wire color of original directional wire leads. 11. Cut polarized wires to the length required for connection to the wires at the relocated directional light. Make certain you leave enough slack in wires to allow routing the harness along the fork tube. 12. Split remaining end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 13. Slide heat shrink tubes over the two wire end. 14. Strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wires connected to directional light and connect like colored wires at directional light with connectors from kit. 15. Slide heat shrink tubing over connectors installed in steps 10 and 14. Activate shrink tubing with heat gun or hair dryer.

Pulsar Electronic LED Turn Signal Flasher Unit Installation & Operation Instructions

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Locate the stock flasher unit on your motorcycle and remove it. Refer to your motorcycle’s shop manual. 2. Using either the test light or voltmeter, connect or touch one lead to the chassis or ground. Turn on the ignition switch. 3. Then touch the probe of either the test-light or the other lead of the voltmeter to one of wires or contacts where the flasher was removed from. If using the test-light, the light will light up when the supply line has been located. If using the voltmeter, the meter will indicate a voltage value, if present. Important Notice: Verify which grounding type your motorcycle is using before performing one of the following procedures. This can simply be done by seeing which terminal of the battery is connected to the motorcycle’s chassis or frame. Figure 3 • Positive Earth: Connect the black wire (-V) into the contact that indicated power was present. Plug the white wire (O/P) into the other contact, which did not have any power present. Turn off the ignition switch. Cut off the connector on the red wire w/ fuse holder (+V); strip the insulation back about ¼” (6 mm) and install the ring terminal on the wire, then ground the ring terminal to a chassis bolt or screw. If ground is not available via the chassis, then connect to an earth (ground) wire from the wiring harness. • Negative Ground: Connect red wire w/ fuse holder (+V) into the contact that indicated power was present. Plug the white wire (O/P) into the other contact, which did not have any power present. Turn off the ignition switch. Cut off the connector on the black wire (-V); strip the insulation back about ¼” (6 mm) and install the ring terminal on the wire, then ground the ring terminal to a chassis bolt or screw. If ground is not available via the chassis, then connect to a ground wire from the wiring harness

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BMW K1200LT Motorcycle Brake Light Flasher Installation

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. Use the T-20 Torx wrench to remove the plastic cover (5 screws—see Figure 2) to the compartment beneath the mirror inside the trunk. Figure 2. Remove 5 screws to remove plastic cover 2. Remove the wire from underneath the plastic holder and separate the two halves of the connector going to the brake light. 3. Cut off both BMW connectors (close to the connector) and strip about ¼” of insulation off the ends of the wires. Twist the loose strands of wire together. To make it a little easier to attach the connectors, you can cut carefully back the black insulation around the wires coming from through the rubber grommet. 4. On the wires going through the rubber grommet in the trunk to the brake light, crimp a red female bullet connector to the purple (ground) wire and a red male bullet connector to the orange (hot) wire. 5. On the remaining wires, crimp a red male bullet connector to the brown (ground) wire and red female bullet connector to the gray/yellow (hot) wire (see Figure 3).