2002 Kawasaki 360 ATV WINCH ACCESSORY INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012

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1. Remove the two 8mm bolts that attach the front bumper assembly to the ATV frame see figure 3. 2. Place Winch mounting plate (A1) into position and fasten the two bent down tabs to the ATV frame using the two 8mm bolts removed in step one, see figure 4, and figure 5. Do not tighten fully at this time. 3. Attach the front of the mounting plate using four 1/4-20 u- bolts (B1), eight lock washers (B2), and eight 1/4-20 hex nuts (B3), see figure 6. 4. Tighten all fastners for the mounting kit at this time. 5. Place winch into position behind the mounting plate. Attach the top two feet of the winch using two 5/16-18 hex cap screws and lock washer. These fasteners will be found in the hardware kit that came with the winch. Note: The winch has floating nuts in its feet. In some instances, a nut may be moved off to one side making it impossible to screw a bolt in. If this becomes the case, take a screwdriver and center the floating nut in the winch to the bolt hole opening. Now attach the bolt through the Winch Plate and into the winch. 6. If using a Cast Hawse Fairlead: It may be neccasary to remove the cast hawse fairlead from the fairlead mounting plate that came with the winch.

Kawasaki ZX6R 2009 Frame Slider Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012

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1. Remove mid and lower body panels Left and Right. There is a small plastic cover that is mounted over the main engine stud location on the left side. This cover requires a small notch to be cut out of the cover to clear the small end of the left side offset. Remove stock stud and mount the left side offset (with 10 X 1.25 X 60). Using a pencil, trace out the notch that you need to remove to clear the small end of the offset. We used a Dremel tool with a sanding roll and cleaned it up with an exacto knife. We removed a small amount of material at a time checking for clearance each time. The notch will not be visible after the body has been mounted. See photos below: 2. Once you have notched the small left side panel, mount the left side offset but only hand tight. You need to be able to move the offset by hand to its proper location. 3. Mount the left side bodywork and align the offset to the opening in the body. Mount the left side slider on the offset to ensure correct location. There is a flat notch in the slider so the body will clear. Remove the slider and body and torque down the offset to OEM specifications. (see above)
4. Mount the left side panel. Install the slider using one drop of blue thread locker and torque down to 30 to 32 ft lbs.

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KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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KAWASAKI KX450F SPARK XCR SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 02-05-2012

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1. Place the machine on a stable work stand. 2. If you are not familiar with removing the original exhaust refer to the owner’s manual before you start work. 3. Always allow your machine to cool down before attempting to remove the exhaust. 4. Remove the two bolts from the right side panel. Then remove the side panel. 5. Loosen the stock mid-pipe clamp, then remove the stand-off bolt and bracket bolt that supports the muffl er. 6. Remove stock muffl er and clamp from the stock head pipe. 7. Slightly loosen the stock head pipe at the cylinder head to aid in aligning the parts. INSTALLING THE NEW XCR SYSTEM 1. Installer must use supplied hardware. 2. Slide mid-pipe onto head pipe. Rotate the mid-pipe slightly to obtain proper alignment with sub-frame mount. 3. Install the supplied M8x16mm bolt through sub-frame into the stand-off mount on mid-pipe (Finger tight). 4. Slide the muffl er onto mid-pipe, align muffl er mount with the stock muffl er mount hole, and install and fi nger tighten the OEM bolt. 5. Once you have the system fully aligned, install and tighten all the bolts securely to factory specifi cations. 6. Replace the side panel and secure the mounting bolts. 7. Re-tighten stock head pipe at the cylinder head. TEST RIDING 1. When you fi rst ride the bike be aware that the characteristics are often quite different so start out slowly. TUNING 1. On the KX450F, we suggest using stock jetting based on our testing condition. These specifi cations should only be used as a guideline. Riding at different elevations or climates may require using different settings to obtain peak performance. If you need additional assistance, please refer to your Kawasaki owner’s manual. 2. To convert system from Offroad to Competition specifi cations, remove the 5mm Allen bolt and Spark arrestor. Two different Db lowering inserts are also available (see accessories section on page 2). To return the system to Offroad specifi cation re-install the Spark arrestor into the rear of the muffl er using a small amount of blue thread locking compound (Loctite® 243) re-tighten the 5mm Allen bolt (6.5 ft pounds)

Kawasaki KVF650/ 700, KSV 700 Camshaft Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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Liberally apply assembly lube to every surface of the camshaft. Install the camshaft into the cylinder head (the lobes should be pointed down) and align the decompressor shaft dowels with the weight arms. Install one of the camshaft sprocket holder bolts and tighten to less than finger tight, you should be able to move the camshaft very slightly back and forth, roll the crank over until the other bolt hole is exposed and insert the sprocket bolt and tighten to less than finger tight. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly, do not install the spring, spring dowel, washer, and bolt. Using the spring from the cam chain tensioner very slowly push the tensioner shaft in until the cam chain slack has just been taken out, this is witnessed by the very slight lifting of the opposite end of the cam out of the cylinder head cam journal, do not over tighten the cam chain at this point, if you do, remove the tensioner assembly and retract the plunger again and start over. (If it stays too tight it will stretch the cam chain prematurely and cause cam sprocket damage when the engine is assembled) Roll the camshaft toward the back of the machine (clockwise) loading the sprocket bolts against the back of the sprocket bolt holes, while holding the camshaft in that direction, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction that you rotated it earlier and align the TDC mark, tighten the other sprocket-mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Verify the cam timing and crankshaft TDC marks are in alignment

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Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

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2006 Ninja ZX-14 Bikeland comes Full Circle

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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think it’s safe to say that none of us expected the newest incarnation of the ZX-12R – the Ninja ZX-14 – to look the way it does. Since its announcement in September 2005 Bikeland’s members questioned the ZX-14′s looks, its performance, its overall size and weight. In fact members have questioned pretty much everything about the ZX-14 from its George Foreman Grill RF900′esque strakes to the omission of the letter “R” in the model name. For months there has been little to do but wait, ponder, discuss, dissect and speculate about this bike. Kawasaki has remained amazingly tight lipped about the ZX-14 and its potential performance. I feel fortunate that Kawasaki has valued our members’ input throughout all these years enough to invite Bikeland to the World Press Introduction, and for that all of you should feel honored. This is a level of recognition we never expected when freek and I first sat down and decided to build the website. I don’t think that the membership of this site realizes the amount of work the staff at KMC have put into this event, and the birth of this model. The last two years have been an eye opening experience for all of us at Bikeland as we have had a front row seat (whether we knew it or not) to watch and participate in the creation of a brand new motorcycle. As your direct representative at this event I had some serious business to attend to. When I found out from Kawasaki that we could include a second rider from Bikeland, the choice was daunting. So many of you have contributed your thoughts and feelings, your technical knowledge and your expertise that we didn’t really know if there could be a single “right choice”. The decision was difficult but after much deliberating we asked MadMike to accompany me to this introduction, and our reasoning was purposeful

motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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KAWASAKI ZX-10R ROAD TEST And SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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In the past the name Kawasaki, for me, always suggested legendary fast superbikes with brut power. Then later came the Ninja name tag and there was still a lot of speed there, but amongst the strength of some superb opposition the legend was waning. Well now the legend is back, the new 2008 Ninja ZX-10R brings back all that attitude, styling and raw power of a true superbike. As per my usual form [running a bit late] I picked up the ‘Kwacker’ from D ‘n’ D Motorcycles in Conlig all in a bit of rush. Fortunately for me, Davy the owner was as obliging as ever and kindly let me take the bike straight to the Cookstown 100 road race practice. On arrival, it was out of the van, a quick once over, tyre pressures checked and straight onto the grid to instruct the newcomers’ practice sessions. Luckily, with all the rush, I hadn’t time to dwell on the reputation of the previous models, but after one cautious lap in damp conditions the ZX-10R felt right at home among the racers. First thing I noticed, and appreciated in this situation, was that it steered really well. Turn-in and direction changes felt light and easy with no signs of the questionable high speed stability of previous ZX-10s. Suspension was slightly hard compared to some road bikes, but any softer and we would have been wallowing out of the dips. The front and rear suspension soaked up the bumpy country roads well, with the only adjustment made, being a click harder on the front rebound damping. After a few laps I really did forget I was on a road bike, such was my confidence in the big ‘Kwacker’. Talking high tech features, the ZX-10R apparently has some form of traction control system – (Kawasaki Ignition Management System) KIMS. Bit of a girly name eh! Now I’m not sure exactly how it works on this particular bike, but I can testify to an enormous amount of grip and only

Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha GRIPS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 (Fig. 1) 3 Apply glue to the throttle sleeve. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the sleeve away from the throttle housing. 4 Slide the grip onto throttle sleeve with one strong push (Fig. 2). NOTE: Be sure not to get any glue into the space between the throttle sleeve and the throttle sleeve housing, as well as the space between the throttle sleeve and the handle bar. Wipe up any excess glue immediately. Allow 6 hours for glue to set before using . GRIPS Remove clutch side grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar with a sharp knife. 1 Apply glue to the bar. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the bar away from the switch housing. 2 Slide the grip onto the bar with one strong push. Wipe away any excess glue immediately. Allow 6 hours for glue to set before using. (Fig. 3)