Kawasaki ZX-14 Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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1) Tools needed: 36mm socket / 32mm socket / 5mm Allen wrench / cordless drill / tap handle / hammer / razor blade. 2) The frame bracket serves as the drilling guide and we provide the transfer punch, tap, drill and step by step instructions for a relatively easy installation. However, do not attempt this installation unless you are skilled enough and confident that you can drill and tap (2) holes in your frame. We’ve also provided a picture of what it will look like should you decide to sell this bike later on, with your stabilizer removed. Follow these guidelines and you’ll find it’s quite easy. 3) Some photos may not be your exact bike but depict the idea of what needs to be done. 4) It is important to use Blue Loc-tite on all fasteners if you expect them to stay tight. 5) Cover the gas tank area with something substantial to protect the paint, in case of a slip. An old sweatshirt works well. It’s cheap insurance to actually just remove the tank shroud to avoid an accident. 6) Remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight. Make a note of how tight it is. 7) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount) over the steering stem allowing it to match the exact shape of the triple clamp, with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp. (See photo). 8) Install the new 32mm aluminum nut supplied in the kit (without any washer) with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 65ft. lbs. or more. (Check your manual for the recommended torque setting of this nut). 9) There is a slight amount of play in the “register” that fits over the back of the triple clamp to allow for variations in castings from the factory. If the TC mount tries to spin clockwise during tightening, which can misalign the stabilizer ever so slightly, you can slide something thin, like the edge of a razor blade, between the register and the back of the triple clamp to space it “just right” for alignment during tightening (see photo). Once it’s tight the razor blade will be stuck, so gently turn the 32mm socket as though you were going to loosen the nut but don’t actually loosen it. It will relieve enough pressure to allow the razor blade to come out. Double check your alignment again. 10) Remove the front tank mounting Allen bolt. Retain the stock washer that’s part of the rubber grommet. 11) Temporarily install the frame bracket and be sure the outer feet are touching or are very close to the frame. On rare occasions, the casting on the head tube prevents the feet from making contact. On these rare occasions you may have to slightly file the inner side of those feet until the bracket sits down flush. Not sure on this one? Call us. (note: 2007-on bikes have a larger casting area and early kits will not fit these late model bikes. All current kits now fit 2006-on)

FLH Harley-Davidson Bikes/ Trikes Steering Damper Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-04-2012

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First, we’re going to install the upper Bracket. (#8 in Fig. 1) Start by placing a clean towel or other protective material over your front fender to protect it from falling objects. Remove the 5/16-18 Allen head bolt and washer holding the top of the crash bar to the frame. Use a ¼” Allen wrench. Access is easier if you crank the forks over to one side. Line up the hole in the new bracket with the crash bar, orienting the bracket to the crash bar as shown in Fig. 1, and re-install the bolt with a drop of blue loc-tite. Torque the bolt to 15-20 ft. lb. If you don’t have a torque wrench, well, you should have one, but if not, 15-20 ft. lb. is a bit tighter than a spark plug torque, which is 12-18 ft. lb. If you are not sure, snug it down tight, but don’t try to break it. Note than on a couple of these, I had to slightly elongate the hole in the bracket to re-install the upper crash bar bolt. (Side mount bracket installation) Next, the side bracket install. (#6 in Fig. 1) You’ll need a #35 Torx driver to remove the two screws holding the LEFT passing lamp/turn signal bar to the bike/trike. Carefully remove the upper and lower screws, holding the bar to prevent it from falling, possibly jerking the attached wiring. Once you have removed the screws, you can let the bar hang, while you orient the side bracket as per Fig. 1. Re-install the two screws you just removed, capturing the damper side bracket under the light bar. Use a drop of blue loc- tite here as well. Hand tighten the two screws, aligning the lamp bar and damper side bracket. Using your torque wrench, (you did find one didn’t you?) Tighten the two screws to 15-20 ft. lb. Ok the easy part is out of the way.

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Honda VTX C 1800/ 1300 Backrest Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 04-01-2012

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We highly recommend use of Loctite о on all nuts and bolts and check your hardware on regular basis. 1) Install the backrest bars with the pad. Do not tighten the bolts until the backrest is assembled with the brackets Install the brackets and backrest. The longer collars go to the front mounting holes. Do NOT tighten all the bolts until everything is assembled. We highly recommend red loc-tite о or any other compound will prevent bolts getting loose from vibration. Check bolts and metal parts periodically to make sure they are securely fastened

HARLEY DAVIDSON NOSTALGIC TWIN CAM 88 AIR CLEANER COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove current air cleaner cover and screw. 2. See Figure 1. Coat threads of screw (1) from kit with Loc- tite® 243 (blue) (Harley-Davidson part number 99642-97). Install new air cleaner cover (2) with screw (1). If this kit will be installed with a Screamin’ Eagle Twin Cam 88 high flow air cleaner kit, place the self adhering gasket (must be purchased separately) inside the cover between the air filter and the cover. Tighten screw to 36-60 in-lbs (4.1- 6.8 Nm)

Victory Kingpin Rear LED Turn Signal Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Step 1 •Remove rider’s seat, strut covers, and passenger seat (if applicable) •Separate wiring harness connector for rear lights •Remove screws from each side of fender and plastic connectors from plastic inner fender •Carefully remove the fender by gentle prying outward and upward on one side to clear the mounting points, then the other side •Set aside on a flat and smooth surface to protect the fender’s finish Step 2 •Turn the rear fender assembly upside down on a stable and covered/protected surface to prevent damaging the fender/paint •Remove the metal piece that covers the rear wiring harness area (10mm socket) and unscrew the wire junction box (5mm Allen wrench) •Disconnect the turn signals from the stock wiring harness and unscrew the Allen bolts holding them in place (5mm Allen) •Enlarge the center mounting hole in the inner fender of the turn signal mounting location with a 3/8ths metal drill bit (see picture below). Victory Kingpin Rear LED Turn Signal Kit Installation Guide
Be extremely careful to drill slowly and make sure to avoid contact with the sides of the fender! Ensure that the surface area where the holes have been made are smooth. This will allow for a flush fit with the turn signal mounting blocks. If not, use a small file or other suitable tool to fix it. Don’t be concerned if your new hole extends into the other holes. Step 3 •Prior to installing the silver bullets, choose which style bezel you prefer, visor or visor-less. Both styles are included with amber LEDs only. Red LED silver bullets come standard with visor-less bezels, however visored bezels can be purchased separately. •Place the fender upright on a protected and secure surface. Insert the mounting blocks into place flush with the surface of the fender. They will only fit one way and are not interchangeable. Place a small amount of loc-tite on the threads of the hollow bolt. Hold the silver bullet LED light in place on the mounting block and thread the wire through the holes, and hand tighten the hollow bolt from the inside of the fender. Once a proper alignment of the lights has been achieved, tighten them securely with a 9/16ths box end wrench. Step 4 •Run the wiring of the turn signals in an appropriate/desireable path to the stock wiring harness. Once the wires are run, cut any excess wire and install the bullet connectors (included) to the end of the wires as noted in the wiring advisory and continue with wiring as follows: 1. Silver bullet right rear PURPLE to stock wire BLUE with RED stripe 2. Silver bullet right rear BLACK to stock wire BLACK 3. Silver bullet left rear PURPLE to stock wire BLUE 4. Silver bullet left rear BLACK to stock wire BLACK Make sure that the connectors are firmly snapped in place and are covered with the stock rubber connector. Ensure that the preexisting dielectric grease isn’t completely wiped off/removed, it will ensure conductivity and corrosion resistance. Please note that the amber LED silver bullets are dual intensity, while the stock system is single intensity (turn signal only). If you wish to wire your silver bullets to also function as running lights, the blue wire from each silver bullet must be wired to a “constant-on”/power wire, such as the stock purple wire that connects to the license plate assembly. If you do not wish to wire your turn signals for dual intensity then the blue wires should be tied off

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2000-2002 Aprilia Mille INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory tolerances vary from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 4) Install the frame bracket (part #22-6036-03) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. The frame bracket sits on top of the stock tank spacers. The frame bracket is offset. This means it fits correctly only one way, with the offset toward the triple clamp, part numbers facing forward, (see photo below). Due to the tight clearances on this model you’ll want to be sure the frame bracket does not make contact with the tank itself. It’s easier to start the tank bolts if you lift up on the tank slightly, while starting the new bolts into their threaded hole. Tighten the new tank bolts to 6 ft lbs. and use Loc-tite. 5) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either one. 6) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2925-00 into the recess area where the stock Allen head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or built-in-washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 nubs that hang down, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the new 14mm Allen nut provided to your factory torque specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and maximum of 85 ft. lbs. Do not use the stock washer that was under the original 14mm nut. 7) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! It should not touch the gas tank on the bottom side. 8) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 9) Since the tank is rubber mounted at the rear, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 10) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

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1996-2003 KAWASAKI ZX7R INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) It is mandatory to use blue Loc-tite on all bolts. We promise they will come loose if you don’t. 2) Remove the large nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. Install the new nut that we provide which has HEX drive facing UP. You will NOT use the stock washer. 3) Torque the new nut to your factory recommended setting as they vary. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the new triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (the small knub) indexing into the matching groove on the top, back of your stock triple clamp. The knub insures the mount cannot spin should the damper try to loosen the main nut. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the Scotts triple clamp nut. The groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the set screws are tightened, it will suck the TC mount down against your triple clamp. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 7) Using blue loc-tite on the setscrews, run them all in against the nut equally and then proceed to tighten each one making your way around until they are all equally tight. They should be checked after the first ride as normally they will settle into the groove in the nut and require tightening. 8) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 9) Remove the two, stock-front tank retaining bolts. You will replace these with longer ones in the kit. 10) Install the new “frame bracket tower”. There is a front and back to this part, note the picture! 11) Install the longer tank bolts supplied, through our frame bracket and into your tank mounting holes. 12) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole. It is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin and hole portion greased lightly. 13) Install the damper using the (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 14) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit is a good starting point, usually 8 clicks out on the base valve. 15) The base valve controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted

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