2008 SUZUKI GSXR1300 Hayabusa Front Brake Line Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 09-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our brake line kit: You should have two (2) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts. There are also a total of nine (9) washers. Seven (7) will be used, and two (2) are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines, and all other installations void warranty. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process is messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. Take note of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Please note there is a plastic shield on the lower triple clamp of your machine; we took this piece off to ease installation. Remove the OEM hose holder, and keep the bolt for later use. (See picture C) Step 4: Install the right and left (to your right and left as you sit on the bike) lines to the calipers, using the shorter line on the right side. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt is included to run two lines down. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Double banjo hex, washer, straight banjo labeled for right line, washer, 12-degree banjo labeled for left line, washer, master cylinder. Please see picture A for reference! Double banjo bolts must be torqued at 12 FT pounds. Step 5: Route both brake lines through the enclosed c-clip, and attach to the lower triple clamp using the bolt from the OEM holder. (See picture B) Drop the lines down and thread the single banjo bolts at each caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, 20-degree banjo, washer, thread into caliper. Torque banjo bolts to 12 FT pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions

2007-2008 KAWASAKI ZX-6RR GP Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our GP kit: You should have 3-line (front kit) , 3 SINGLE banjo bolt and 1 C-CLIP. There are also a total of 8 washers. 6 will be used, and 2 are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines, all other installations will VOID the warranty . Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: Cover the complete front end of the bike so that if any brake fluid does spill the paint will not be damaged, brake fluid will spill, there is no question!! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install the GALFER GP 3-Line starting with the master cylinder line (top line). Torque level is 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture A2) Step 5: Install the C-CLIP provided to the lower triple tee left line needs to be held by c-clip [see picture A4] . Lower lines will travel in front of the forks to the calipers; three single banjo bolt (see picture A1) are included for master cylinder to each caliper. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Master cylinder, washer, 40-degree banjo (Top line), and washer. Single banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds. ( See picture A2 for positioning) Make sure that the [ CALIPER fittings ] on each caliper are positioned [ positioning ] (see picture A5- A6) . Thread banjo bolt into the caliper, and torque bolt to 12 to 13 Ft pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and are clear of any obstructions. Once the lines have been checked for clearance.

2005 HONDA CBR 600RR Superbike BRAKE LINES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our Super bike KIT, you should have 2 lines (front Kit), and 1 Double banjo bolt and 2 lower adapters. There are also a total of 7 washers, 5 will be used, and 2 are spares. We ALWAYS strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines, all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: Cover the complete front end of the bike so that if any brake fluid does spill the paint will not be damaged, brake fluid will spill, there is no question!! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install onto the calipers the Galfer adapter, the course thread area threads to the caliper with one washer. Torque level is 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture on adapter A) Step 5: Install right and left lines to the master cylinder, the right line is the shortest out of the two lines. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt is included to run two lines down. (Picture B). This is the sequence on the master cylinder: Master cylinder, washer, straight banjo (from right line), washer, 12 degree banjo (from left line) washer and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds . (For positioning see picture G). Banjo 12 on left line must be facing a bit more to the left than the straight banjo of right line, so that the lines can cross at lower triple clamp better. On the calipers, make sure that the 90-degree fittings are pointing out a little bit, thread banjo end to the adapter, torque the end to 6 ½ Ft pounds . (See pictures C, D, E) Before you begin bleeding process, please check for clearance of the lines, push on the front end down, see that the lines are not binding with anything and that when the front end is fully extended or fully under pressure the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Ones the lines have been check for clearance; the two lines are Zip tied together at the same level of the lower triple clamp area. (See pictures F), please make sure that lines cross each other. Step 6: Bleed system, conventional bleeding, pump and release the air from caliper bleed nipples… DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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Yamaha Roadliner And Stratoliners Brake Pedal Relocation Kit

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. This kit replaces the original rear brake actuating rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder (see photo 1A) and the brake light switch spring (see photo 1B). Remove the two allen screws which attach the switches mounting plate to the frame (1C). Remove the spring. 2. Remove the cotter pin and washer from the forward end of the rod where it connects to the brake pedal (photo2A). Slide the rod over off of the brake pedal. Unscrew the rod from the threaded stud on the master cylinder. 3. Thread the new rod onto the stud until the end of the stud appears in the middle of the small sight hole that is cross drilled thru the rod (1D). Place the forward end of the rod back onto the brake pedal. Next check the distance between the bottom of the brake pedal and the top of the floorboard, this should be approximately 1 ¾”. If not, slide the rod off the pedal and thread it in or out to adjust the pedal height. With the rod on the pedal re-install the washer and cotter pin (Note: the cotter pin should go into the hole from the top down) then bend the cotter pin open. 4. Replace the brake light spring with the new one supplied. (Pushing down on the switches rubber cover will push the pin out). Re-install the switch bracket. Turn on the ignition and adjust the threaded collar on the brake switch so that the brake light comes on just as you feel some resistance when pushing on the pedal (when the brakes begin to drag).

HT1500 GOLD WING CONVERSION KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 16-12-2010

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Removal of Bike parts: Remove the following parts following the factory manual: s ide covers, p assenger foot rests, e xhaust covers, seat, t our pack, s addlebags, b attery and b ox, r ear tire, b rake line ( at rubber hose near swing arm pivot ), s hocks ( air compressor line is disconnected at shock, and stays with compressor) , S wingarm and d riveshaft (reverse box may stay connected, just pull out to side ), m ufflers, and h elmet locks. Preparation: Cut-off the saddlebag support tubes where the vertical tube meets the angled tube in the front and back. All you want left is the tour pack support. Loosen tour pack support at bottom bolts, remove top bolts, and then lift up a little. This allows the body to go under the support. If you have the fuel tank: Secure the two black control boxes, facing each other, one on top of the other. Secure to frame using the green ground wire hole at center of frame. Use the 2 ¼” spacer tube and long screw provided to hold them together. If no fuel tank: leave rear half of fender in place Install air-compressor relocation bracket (1 ½” x 4″ w/ 3 holes) and remount compressor. After mounting, secure the compressor to the bracket with a wire tie Install suspension: See brake amendment for master cylinder prep Install machined studs in the swing arm pivot hole with some blue Locktite on them. This provides a 5/8″ stud on the side of the frame for the suspension side plates. Screw in until flush with frame. Remove the 6mm bolts from the exhaust heat shield on the outside of the frame rail. Install the shock replacement bars on the top shock stud and re-install bolts, leave bars hanging loose for now. Put the suspension on a floor jack and roll up to the bike. (note: once forward all the way, jack up to meet the studs.) Spread the chassis plates over the studs and start the nuts. Be careful not to damage the threads on the machined studs. Jack up the rear to align the shock replacement bars, slip in the bolts. Install 8mm x 40mm bolts and ¾” spacers to crash bar tabs on frame with spacer. Tighten the front stud nuts, crash bar tab bolts, and shock replacement bars

AUTOMOTIVE BRAKE BLEEDING KIT MODEL MV8020 USER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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MOTORCYCLE BLEEDING PROCEDURE Before bleeding the system, ensure that: 1) The brake caliper pistons are free to move within the calipers. 2) The master cylinder piston is free to return to the end of its stroke, and 3) Inspect the line to ensure that all fittings are tight. FRONT BRAKE 1) Pump brake lever to seat caliper pads against rotor. 2) Cover gas tank with plastic protective sheet if using DOT 3 fluid (not necessary if using DOT 5 fluid). 3) Remove master cylinder reservoir cap and fill reservoir. 4) Select the appropriate adapter(s). The L-shaped universal adapters should fit snugly over the brake bleeding fitting in order to seal properly. The tapered adapters fit inside the thru-hole of fitting and will generally seal well when inserted tightly with a pressing and twisting motion. Attach adapter to reservoir hose. 5) Pump several times to create vacuum. Crack bleeder valve with box wrench, extracting fluid into reservoir. (Stop and add fluid when master cylinder begins to get low. Do not allow air to enter line.). At this point, all air should be out of system and line full of fluid. (Note: if air is entering the pump hose from around bleeder fitting, remove bleeder fitting and apply Teflon tape to threaded portion of bleeder screw only. This will prevent air seepage around threads of bleeder screw.) 6) While maintaining vacuum on the pump line, tighten bleeder fitting. 7) Top off reservoir and reinstall cover. Check brake by pumping lever several times. Pedal should have a positive, solid feel. If not, repeat bleeding process as more air may have entered the system. Inspect line to ensure all fittings are tight. If brake still feels slack, consult a service technician.

2008 FLT Police Models Service Manual Supplement

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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ITEM SERVICED 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Drain plug torque Engine oil and filter 4 qt. (3.8 L) Oil capacity Hand tighten 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contact Filter 63798-99A Chrome filter part number 63731-99A Black filter part number FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity Primary chain lubricant Wet: 38 oz. (1124 ml) Dry: 45 oz. (1331 ml) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Primary chaincase drain plug torque 1/2-1 turn Adjuster screw free play Clutch adjustment 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm) Adjuster screw locknut torque 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) Free play at hand lever 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) Clutch inspection cover torque Dipstick at FULL with motorcycle on jiffy stand and filler plug resting on threads. Lubricant level Transmission lubricant FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity 32 oz (0.95 liters) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Transmission drain plug torque 25-75 in-lbs (2.8-8.5 Nm) Transmission filler plug/dipstick torque Front: 36 psi (248 kPA) Pressure: solo rider Tire pressure and wear Rear: 36-40 psi (248-276 kPA) Replace if less than 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of tread pattern Wear 55 in-lbs (6.2 Nm) minimum Spoke nipple torque Wheel spokes 99953-99A (12 oz.) D.O.T. 4 hydraulic brake fluid part number Brake fluid level Front: 0.20 in. (5.0 mm) Fluid level (from top of master cylinder reservoir) Rear: 0.26 in. (6.5 mm) Front: 7-10 in-lbs (0.8-1.1 Nm) Master cylinder reservoir cover screw torque Rear: 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm) 0.016 in. (0.4 mm) Minimum brake pad thickness Brake pads and discs 75-102 in-lbs (8.5.-11.5 Nm) Brake caliper pad pin torque Front: 0.18 in. (4.5 mm) Minimum brake disc thickness Rear: 0.25 in. (6.3 mm) 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) Maximum brake disc lateral runout (warpage) 10 lb. (4.5 kg) Upward force applied at midpoint of bottom belt strand Drive belt deflection 3/8-7/16 in. (9.5-11.1 mm) FLHTP 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9 mm) FLHP/FLHPE 40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover bracket screw torque Air cleaner 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover screw torque LOCTITE MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCKER 243 (BLUE) Air cleaner cover screw Threadlocker Part No. 99642-97 (6 ml) LUBIT-8 SUPER OIL, Part No. 94968-85TV (1/4 fl. oz.) Lubricant part number Clutch cable 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm) Handlebar switch housing screw torque

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HONDA 2002-2004 GL1800/A Linked Braking System (LBS) Proportional Control Valve (PCV) Leakage

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. Pump the rear brake pedal four times. •If the brake pedal feels spongy, bleed the brake system per the Service Manual. After verifying proper brake system operation, proceed to step 2 below. •If the brake pedal does not feel spongy, proceed to step 2 below. 2. Place the motorcycle on its side stand, with the handlebars in the full left position . Lock the handlebars. 3. Place a scissor jack directly under the left front brake caliper as shown in the illustration. To avoid damage to the caliper, place a protective piece of rubber (such as a piece of inner tube) between the caliper and the jack. Wind up the jack until the front wheel is approximately 15 mm off the ground. 4. Measure the distance from the secondary master cylinder piston mounting bolt to the edge of the secondary master cylinder body (rod length of the secondary master cylinder). Record this measurement . • If the measured length is 30.3 mm, replace the PCV per the Service Manual. (This length indicates the unit’s secondary master cylinder is fully stroked, which means there is no hydraulic brake pressure acting on the PCV.) After replacing the PCV, proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. •If the measured length is longer than 30.3 mm , proceed to step 5 below. • INSPECTION/REPAIR PROCEDURE Record this measurement. Pump the rear brake pedal four times.
GL1800/A #16 ©2005 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved 3 of 6 FEBRUARY 2005 5. Wait 30 minutes. Do not disturb the motorcycle in any way during this time. 6. Measure the distance again from the secondary master cylinder piston mounting bolt to the edge of the secondary master cylinder body (rod length of the secondary master cylinder). •If the measurement has decreased more than 1 mm from the measurement you recorded, proceed to step 7 below. •If the measurement is within 1 mm of the measurement you recorded, the PCV is OK. Proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. 7. Check the PCV for leakage. • If the PCV is leaking , replace the PCV per the Service Manual. After replacing the PCV, proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. • If the PCV is not leaking , you must diagnose the brake system problem before proceeding. After you have diagnosed and repaired the brake system, proceed to the IDENTIFICATION section of this Service Bulletin. NOTE: Any brake system problem not related to the PCV that is found while performing this Service Bulletin is not covered by this Safety Recall. If the motorcycle’s original factory warranty is still in effect or under HPP, file a normal warranty claim. If the unit is outside its factory warranty period or HPP coverage, contact TechLine for goodwill consideration. 8. Verify proper front and rear brake operation by pumping the front brake lever and rear brake pedal before riding the motorcycle

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. See Figure 2. Drain the brake fluid. a. Open bleeder nipple cap on front brake caliper. b. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while placing free end in a suitable container. c. Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn. d. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. e. Remove cover. f. Close bleeder valve. Remove brake line components carefully. Damage to seating surfaces can cause leakage. (00320a) 2. Remove bolt and 2 steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) is 01010 Figure 3. 5/32 in. (4 mm) Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 3. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 4. Using T27 TORX® drive head, remove the 2 screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the brake lever/master cylinder assembly and clamp from the handlebar. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 5. Remove retaining ring from pivot pin groove at bottom of master cylinder bracket. 6. Remove pivot pin and brake hand lever from master cylinder assembly. NOTE New master cylinder comes with all internal components preassembled. It is not necessary to remove the components from the bore of the old master cylinder. See Figure 9. Use denatured alcohol to clean clutch system components. Do not use mineral-based solvents (such as gasoline or paint thinner), which will deteriorate rubber parts even after assembly. Deterioration of these components can cause clutch failure, which could result in death or serious injury. (00296a) 7. With denatured alcohol, clean and inspect all parts that will be reused. Replace as necessary and wipe dry with a clean lint free cloth

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Victory V92SC Sport Cruiser COMFORT SPORT HANDLEBAR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1. Remove wiring harness dart clips. 2. Disconnect clutch switch connector. 3. Remove 2screwsforclutch lever bracket clamp, remove clutch lever bracket from handlebar. 4. Remove screws for left handlebar switch assembly. Disconnect fast idle cable from lever. Remove switch assembly. 5. Grasp left grip end firmly. While twisting grip end back&forth, pull grip end off and discard. 6. Remove left grip by insertingathin screwdriver between the grip and handlebar end. Spray as mall amount of water/soap solution into the area between the grip and handlebar end. Aggressively twist the grip back-and-forth while simultaneously pulling the grip off. 1. Locate accessory handlebar. 2. Clean inside of throttle grip assembly and throttle cable flange grooves. Ill. 1. 3. Clean throttle grip area. Ill. 1. 4. Slide throttle assembly onto right handlebar end (cableshavenot been removed and should still be attached to the throttle tube). 5. Position the handlebar over the top of the triple clamp and reinstall using bolts removed instep 10. of handlebar removal. Torque to 30 ft. lbs. 6. Install right handlebar switch housing onto handlebar. NOTE: Make sure that locating pin of switch assembly aligns with hole in handlebars. 7. Install right handlebar switch housing screws, make sure locating pin properly aligns with hole in handlebar. Tighten screws to specified torque. 8. Install master cylinder and clamp, install screws. 9. Torque screws to specification. 10. Connect front brake switch wiring harness. 11. Install fast idle cable onto fast idle lever. 12. Clean inside of left grip and handlebar grip surfaces

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