Aprilia – General Scottoiler Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The vacuum connection is the same for the Aprilia RST Futura & Capo Nord models. On the left hand side of the bike (sitting on the bike) are two pipes from the airbox. Cut into one of these pipes & insert the special T-Piece (not included in the Mk 7 kit), as shown left. Then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4 from the Scottoiler kit, onto the third leg of the tee. The vacuum connection on the RSV Mille and Falco models is different from above. For 1998 models, underneath the tank is a vacuum pipe, as shown left. Cut into this pipe, and insert the special T-Piece (not included in the Mk 7 kit). Push the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee. Vacuum connection for 2000 models, there is a rubber bung over a spigot on the inlet tract, as shown left. Remove the rubber bung and replace it with the Damper Elbow, part number 4 from the Scottoiler kit, as shown below. You may need to gently heat the Damper Elbow ease fitting it onto the spigot. Once you’ve fitted part number 4, push the vacuum tubing into the end of the Damper Elbow and route neatly along the bike towards the RMV position, as shown later in this document. The picture on the left shows the vacuum connection on later models of Aprilia Mille, 2004 onwards. Cut the tube shown, and insert the standard tee piece from the Scottoiler kit. Push the vacuum damper elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee piece, and fit the vacuum tubing into the damper elbow by pushing in securely. Route vacuum tubing along bike to RMV position

KAWASAKI VULCAN 1600 / NOMAD 1600 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove seat and fuel tank. Consult service manual for proper removal of tank. 2. Remove left side cover and loosen the four bolts inside. Route the two 6-pin connectors between the side cover and frame as shown by the dotted line. Tighten the four bolts. (Fig 1) 3. Route 6-pin connectors under frame and up left side of engine. (Fig 2) 4. Locate the 6-pin connector next to the ignition coil. Disconnect and connect the Fuelpak 6-pin connectors in-line on the stock connector. (Fig 3) 5. Route single black wire to the front of engine and down to the horn. (Fig 4) 6. Disconnect the factory black/white wire from horn. Plug Fuelpak into horn and plug Fuelpak black/white wire to Fuelpak connector. Be sure Fuelpak connector cannot short to frame or radiator. 7. Route black and green wires to battery negative. 8. Attach Fuelpak to Fuelpak harness and mount in left side cover. (Fig 5a 49 State) (Fig 5b Caliornia Models) 9. Before reassembling the bike, make sure handlebar switch is in the engine off position and turn the key on. Fuelpak should light up. Sound the horn. If Fuelpak turns off when the horn is sounded, recheck the black wire connection on the horn and that it is connected to the correct wire from the factory harness. 10. Use supplied zip ties to hold Fuelpak wire harness away from engine. 11. Follow the service manual to reinstall the gas tank

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KTM 250F Timing Chain Tensioner Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 19-10-2010

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1) Remove OEM Tensioner: On some models including the 250F motors, it may be necessary to put the engine at TDC before proceeding. Check your manual. This is not the case on the 450 and 530 single cam motors. • Remove the outer cover plug. • Remove the large cover with copper washer. • Using needle nose pliers grab the end of the OEM tensioner and pull it outward. Be careful not to damage the aluminum port or face. • If the O-ring did not come out with the tensioner, carefully reach into the port and remove it without pushing it further into the engine. 2) Install new Tensioner: • To prepare the new tensioner, set the spring aside. Put the new tensioner in the collapsed position. (They are packaged and shipped in the collapsed position.) If you have extended it, rotate the assembly until the “top” on the piston is facing up. Then a light tap from the bottom will release the ratchet. This will now allow the plunger to be retracted to about 1- 13/16″ (46mm). • Install the O-ring over the tensioner body, keeping it outboard of the ridge as shown. • Slide the tensioner assembly with O-ring (without the spring), into the engine port. The end (with the hex-head spring hole) should only protrude from the engine about 1/32″ (.75mm). • Install the cover and tighten. The copper washer should be tight. • Insert the spring through the cover port. As it is slowly inserted, you may hear clicks as it pushes the plunger inward while ratcheting. • Install and tighten the plug against the spring. Note: some 250F engines have a one piece cap. Slide the spring into the tensioner far enough to hold it, then capture it with the cap and tighten. • Start the engine and carefully check for oil leaks. Adjustment will occur internally as it is needed. No further maintenance of the tensioner is required

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