1994 HARLEY DAVIDSON FXD (DYNA) PASSENGER FLOOR BOARDS AND RELOCATION ARMS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-04-2012

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1. Beginning on the RIGHT side, use a 9/16″ wrench to remove the bolt from the back of the passenger peg mount. Remove entire peg assembly. 2. Remove the new floorboards and mounts from their packaging. Notice the Left and Right markings on the backside of the floorboard mounting plates. 3. Install the supplied Right floorboard support (the longer one) with the round mounting face for the floorboard towards the upper-right using the supplied 7/16 x 1 º” long bolt. Apply blue Loctite to the threads. Insert the bolt from the backside where the original peg was mounted. Use a 5/8″ wrench & tighten securely. Note: If also installing with optional Relocation Arms (#FXD005-5) skip step 4 and go onto step 5. 4. Installation of Right Floorboard only. There are two sets of alignment holes on the floorboard support. Insert two of the four dowel-pins into the dowel pinholes at six and twelve o’clock. Place the right floorboard onto the mount and dowel pins so that it is parallel (horizontal) to the ground. Insert the supplied 5/16 X 1″ socket head cap screw through the floorboard mount & thread into the floorboard support. Use a º” hex key wrench & tighten securely. 5. Remove Right Floorboard – Installation of Right Floorboard with Relocation Arm. There are two sets of alignment holes on the floorboard support. Insert two of the four dowel pins into the dowel holes 180 degrees apart. Notice the L & R markings on the backside of the relocation arms. Install the Right relocation arm so marking (R) is facing inward and the threaded hole is facing toward the front of the motorcycle. There are two sets of alignment holes on the relocation arms. Place the arm onto the mount (Match dowel pin holes) in desired upper or lower position. Insert the supplied 5/16 X 1″ socket head cap screw through the relocation arm & thread into the floorboard support. Use a º” hex key wrench & tighten securely. 6. At the other end of the relocation arm there are two sets of alignment holes. Insert two of the supplied dowel pins into the set of dowel pin holes 180 degrees apart that will allow the floorboard to be horizontal or parallel to the ground. Insert the supplied 5/16 X 3/4″ socket head cap screw through the floorboard mount & thread into the link arm. Use a º” hex key wrench & tighten securely.

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LED Harley-Davidson Replacement Fog Lights Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2012

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1. First remove the set screw located on the bottom of the trim ring that holds the fog light in. Carefully lift the fog light out of the motorcycle as you disconnect the wires. 2. Remove the inner retaining ring located behind the lighthead and discard or save it. This retaining ring will not be used in this installation. 3. Attach the foam gasket to the LED lighthead as shown, leaving a gap on the bottom for drainage. 4. Connect the wires of new lighthead to the existing motorcycle wires. RED = +12 Volts BLACK = Ground 5. Insert the lighthead into the mounting hole of the fog light and secure it by re-installing the trim ring. 6. Test the lightheads operation and installation is complete. IMPORTANT! Before returning this vehicle to active service, visually confirm the proper operation of this product, as well as all vehicle components/equipment

Harley Davidson BoonDocker Nitrous System Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2012

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BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 2 of 10 This manifold is also designed to vary the float bowl pressure in relation to nitrous pressure, thus keeping the nitrous and fuel delivery in sync. Fluctuations in bottle temperature greatly affect nitrous pressure, which affects nitrous delivery. By automatically adjusting the fuel delivery as nitrous pressure varies, this manifold makes nitrous safe, reliable, and easy to use. Be sure to understand and follow the tuning instructions at the end of these instructions. Proper tuning is an important part of any performance-enhancing product. Part I – Bottle Installation A. Bottle Valve Fittings Insert the 4AN x 1/8″ NPT fitting and the 1/8″ NPT Plug into the bottle valve (these are attached to the lid of the box for the bottle) . Use Teflon tape to seal the threads – be sure not to get tape inside the threads! B. Bottle Mounting Position With nitrous in the bottle, both nitrous liquid and nitrous gas are present under high pressure (760 psi at 70 deg F) . Due to gravity and acceleration forces, the liquid portion of the nitrous will be at the bottom and rearward parts of the bottle. For this nitrous system to work properly, it is important that nitrous liquid be drawn from the bottle. Nitrous vapor will cause a significant decrease in performance. For best results, the bottle should be mounted so the valve is pointed down and towards the back of the vehicle as shown below. ************** *************** ******** ********* *************** (can be installed on top or bottom of air boot) ********** ********* push-button switch (mounts on handlebar) +12 V *********** ************ **** ****** *! “**#$******%* *! “**#$*#*%* 20 deg to 90 Front of motorcycle Rear of motorcycle BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 3 of 10 Bottle mounted inside airbox: For some applications, a small bottle can be mounted inside the airbox as shown. Note: because of the restricted space, it was necessary to mount this bottle at a non-optimal angle (the valve is pointed towards the front instead of the rear)

Harley Davidson Softails Shocks Installation download

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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Progressive Suspension shocks for your Softail are designed as a direct bolt on replacement for your stockers. Although they are very similar in appearance, they have vastly improved damping and spring rates. Our shocks do not use the remote reservoir system used on earlier model Softail models. 1. Place motorcycle securely on stand or blocks so the rear wheel is slightly off the ground. 2. Per instructions in a authorized shop manual, remove your old shocks. Note location of the mounting hardware. 3. Install the Progressive Suspension shocks using the stock mounting bolts and washers. 4. Tighten all shock mounting bolts to the proper torque specifications (see shop manual for specs) 5. Progressive Suspension shocks have adjustable pre-load to compensate for varying weights. The included wrench or a Harley Davidson pre-load adjustment wrench is necessary to adjust the pre-load setting. Replacement Progressive Suspension, Inc. wrenches are available as Part # SW-784 from most Dealers and Accessory Stores and the Harley Davidson wrench is available as part #94455-89 from any Harley Davidson Dealer. Spring preload is set by us to the lightest setting. To increase preload for heavier riders/loads/passengers, loosen locknut with the inside portion of the supplied wrench or a 1 1/ 16 ” wrench and back it off several turns. Use the supplied wrench or a Harley adjustment wrench to turn the adjustment nut counterclockwise to the desired preload setting. Then tighten the 11/ 16 ” lock nut. Both shocks must be adjusted to the same, equal setting

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Suzuki C-90 VL 1500LC Rear Lowering Kit INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 20-02-2012

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1. Decide how far you would like to lower your bike. Refer to the hole-index chart in these instructions to determine the proper mounting location holes for the drop you want to achieve. 2. Secure motorcycle to bike lift and raise the motorcycle so the rear wheel is unweighted. 3. For easiest access to the linkage remove the tool kit holder from the left side of the bike. 4. Loosen and remove the two self-locking nuts and flat washers from connecting arm bolts from the left side of the motorcycle. 5. Slide connecting arm bolts out (it may be necessary to push bushing back to the left side to allow bolt head to drop below frame. Reinstall in the same manner). Replace stock connecting arms with your new Baron connecting arms. The end with the single hole goes down and attaches to relay arm. The end with three holes goes up and attaches to the frame. Use the hole that lowers the rear your chosen amount. Reinstall bolts, washers and nuts. Torque the two connecting arm nuts to 35 foot-pounds (48 Nm). Remove motorcycle from lift. NOTE : We recommend that you set the shock spring preload to a higher setting, especially if the motorcycle will be used for carrying a passenger or heavy loads.

2001-2008 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 And DL1000 Adapter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 15-02-2012

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Adapter Parts List Item Desc. Quantity A. Front Adapter 1 B. Rear Adapter 1 C. Frame Grabber, Front 2 D. Frame Grabber 1 E. 5/16 x ½” Button Head Screws 4 F. M8 x 50mm Bolts 2 G. Washers (Not shown) 6 2. Assembly Instructions Familiarize yourself with all of the parts in the Main Arm and Motorcycle Adapter assemblies. Follow these installation instructions FIRST . The following instructions include our recommended torque values for all fasteners used to assemble the Johnny Rack™. Do not exceed those torque values when installing the rack, otherwise damage to the Main Arm may occur. When stock mounting points are used to mount the rack to the motorcycle, refer to the motorcycle user’s manual for recommended torque values. 1. Remove the seat, the rubber rack cover on the rear rack or if you have a Givi Top Case mounting plate remove it too. Remove the 4 bolts shown (A and B). 2. Align front frame grabbers over front grab bar mounting holes (A). 3. Reinstall original bolts that you removed. Torque to 150in.lbs. 4. Place rear frame grabber over holes on rear rack (B). 5. If you do not have side luggage racks installed on the motorcycle, you will need to place 3 stacked washers (3/4 ” OD) over each hole and under the frame grabber to take up the extra space.

A Comparison of Stopping Distance Performance for Motorcycles Equipped with ABS, CBS and Conventional Hydraulic Brake Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-02-2012

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Surface Tests On the ABS-equipped motorcycles, the operator was tasked with braking sufficiently to assure the operation of the ABS. The measured stopping distance values were corrected to compare data from the speeds of 48 km/h and 128 km/h, except for the BMW F650 data, which was corrected to 48 km/h and 117 km/h, the latter figure limited by that model’s top speed of 157 km/h (i.e. 75% of 157 km/h). In the ABS-enabled mode, for each load/speed/brake combination, the stopping distances were very consistent from one run to another. In this mode, the braking force was applied in a controlled and consistent manner by the ABS mechanism. With the exception of having to react to the possibility of the rear wheel becoming airborne under high deceleration, the rider did not require significant experience or special skill in order to achieve a high level of performance. In the ABS-disabled mode, the stopping distances were less consistent because the rider while modulating the brake force, had to deal with many additional variables at the same time. Up to six runs were allowed for the rider to become familiar with the motorcycle’s behavior and to obtain the best stopping distance. Test results from non-ABS motorcycles were noticeably more sensitive to rider performance variability. The data in Table 2 include the best stopping distances obtained without ABS, compared to the average braking performance obtained with ABS. The average results were favored for presenting the performance with ABS because the best results could be more representative of threshold braking, whereby the ABS operated for only a portion of the entire test. Despite being compared to the best stopping distances without ABS, the average results with ABS provided an overall reduction in stopping distance of 5%. The stopping distance reduction was more significant when the motorcycle was loaded (averaging 7%). The greatest stopping distance reduction (averaging 17%) was observed when only the rear foot pedal was applied to stop the motorcycle from 128 km/h

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KTM SX50/ SX50R MOUNTING INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 02-02-2012

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top out” too easily and fail to allow enough travel for appropriate rebound from bumps. If the ride height is too low, the shock can bottom too easily, resulting in a harsh ride. The spring rates are set up for the full amount of travel. If the preload is too little, the combined rate is not enough to resist bottoming. Generally speaking, the vehicle should settle 1/4 to 1/3 of its wheel travel with the rider on board for off road use. The proper way to measure the ride height: 1. Support the vehicle on a frame stand or center stand with the rear wheel clear of the ground. 2. Have an assistant measure and record the vertical distance between the rear axle and a point directly above it (seat, fender, frame, muffler, etc.). 3. Take the motorcycle off the stand and sit on it in a normal riding posture, with one foot on the peg and the motorcycle balanced so as to have minimal weight on your other foot. 4. Have the assistant carefully measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. The difference is the amount of settling or “sag.” NITROGEN PRESSURES CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition, the gas is in a column on top of the oil, and when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas will emulsify into the oil. This will cause the gas and some of the shock oil to escape into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure

Yamaha Forward Control Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-01-2012

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After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use

YAMAHA ROADSTAR/ WARRIOR ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Secure motorcycle to a bike lift and raise the motorcycle. Rear wheel should remain barely resting on the ground. 2. See diagram on page 2 for references made in parentheses, for example (#5). 3. Remove the nut from the rear suspension bolt (#5) at the bottom of the shock (#7). You may need to remove your exhaust and rear horn to access the nut and bolt. 4. Remove this suspension bolt (#5) from the non-exhaust side of the bike. You may need to raise or lower the bike to ease the tension on the bolt in order for it to come out. 5. Next remove the nut (#4) and bolt connecting the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. From here remove the entire shock assembly and relay arm from the bike. For ease of re-installing the relay arm (Step 8) and shock be sure to take precautions that in removing the assembly, you can put it back the same way you took it off. Flipping of the relay arm can cause serious damage to the lowering kit and surrounding components. 6. Remove the two suspension arms from the relay arm(#3) and shock(#7). Compare stock arm to length of lowering arm you are about to install. Make sure the length of the lowering arm matches the link of the stock arm. To set how much you want to lower the bike, lengthen the lowering arms. Every 1/4″ longer than stock is approximately 1″ of drop. Do not lower the bike more than 2″ for safety reasons. To adjust, unscrew the large hex shaft from the threaded rods. Make sure to adjust length equally on both shafts. Be sure to tighten all jam nuts once desired lowering position is set. 7. Re-assemble the lowering arms to the top of the shock (#7) using the supplied collar, nut, and bolt. The stock collar (#6), the one in the eyelet at the top of the shock (#7), will need to be removed as it is too long. (This is because the heims are thicker than the stock arms) Do not tighten the nut, or re-install into the frame yet. 8. Re-install the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. The large hex shafts go to the rear of the bike. This is where it

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