SUZUKI GSX 1300R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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CLOCK/FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM INDICATOR (D The indicator displays clock under normal condition. The indicator switches from the clock to the fuel injection system indicator if the fuel injection system has any failure. Clock mode The clock indicates 12-hour mode. Follow the procedure below to adjust the clock. 1. Push the button® until the display blinks. 2. Pushing the button will advance one minute at a time. Repeat pushing the button until the display reaches desired time. 3. Keeping the button pushed in will advance ten minutes at a time. Keep the button pushed until the display reaches desired time. Fine- tune the time by pushing the button repeatedly. 4. Wait 5 seconds and push the button to resume to time display. Fuel injection system indicator F I The fuel injection system indicator indicates “Fl” or “CHEC” if the fuel injection system has any trouble. The Fl indicator light (D will also come on if the fuel injection system has failure. No 1 2 3 Fuel injection system indicator Fl Fl/Clock alternately CHEC Fl indicator light Blinks Lights – Engine condition Engine does not start. Engine can start. Engine does not start. 14 If the fuel injection system indicator displays “Fl” and Fl indicator light blinks, the engine will not start due to a serious fuel injection system failure. If the system has serious failure while riding, the engine may stop. When the fuel injection system indicator displays “Fl” and clock alternately and Fl indicator light comes on, the engine can be started and a will keep running with limited engine performance. This shows that the fuel injection system has minor failure. Bring your motorcycle to an anthorized Suzuki dealer or qualified mechanic to inspect the motorcycle. Continuous operation in this condition may seriously damage the motorcycle. 3. When the fuel injection system indicator indicates “CHEC,” the engine will not start. Make sure that the engine stop switch is turned on and the transmission is in neutral position with the side stand fully up. If the indicator still indicates “CHEC,” inspect the ignition fuse next. SPEEDOMETER ® The speedometer indicates the road speed in kilometers per hour and miles per hour. RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LIGHT © When the right turn signals are operated, the indicator light will flash at the same time. NOTE: If the turn signal light is not operating properly due to bulb filament or circuit failure, the indicator light flickers more quickly to notify the rider of the existence of trouble

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HONDA CRF250X OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 01-12-2010

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Always follow the proper starting procedure described below. Your motorcycle can be kickstarted wirh the transmission in gear by pulling in the clutch lever before operating the kickstarter. Preparation Make sure that the transmission is in neutral. Turn the fuel valve ON. Fuel Valve Starting Procedure Always follow the proper starting procedure described as follow. 4. Warm up the engine; don’t operate the throttle. 5. About 15 seconds after the engine startes, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. Extended use of the choke may impair piston and cylinder wall lubrication and damage the engine. High Air Temperature 35°C (95°F) or above 1. Do not use the choke. 2. Keep the throttle fully closed. 3. Start the engine following step 3 under Normal Air Temperature. Low Air Temperature 10°C (50°) or below 1. Follow steps 1-4 under Normal Air Temperature. 2. Continue warming up the engine until it runs smoothly and responds to the throttle when the choke knob is pushed back all the way to fully OFF. Extended use of the choke may impair piston and cylinder wall lubrication and damage the engine. Hot Engine Starting 1. Pull the hot start lever (3) and start the engine following step 3 under Normal Air Temperature. 2. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. NOTICE NOTICE Basic Operating Instructions 15 (1) fuel valve The three-way fuel valve is used to control the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor. ON -Turning the fuel valve ON before attempting to start the engine allows fuel to flow from the fuel tank to the carburetor. OFF -Turning the fuel valve OFF after stopping the engine prevents the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor. RES -Turning the fuel valve to RES allows fuel to flow from the reserve fuel supply to the carburetor. (1) fuel valve (2) choke knob Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (pages 44,47,48). To restart a warm engine, follow the procedure for ”High Air Temperature. ” Normal Air Temperature 10°C-35°C (50°F-95°F) 1. Pull the choke knob (2) up all the way to fully ON, if the engine is cold. 2. Keep the throttle fully closed. 3. Pull the clutch lever all the way in, and press the starter button with the throttle completely closed. Or operate the kickstarter to start the engine. Starting from the top of the stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. Do not operate the throttle. Allowing the kickstarter to snap back freely against the pedal stop can damage the engine case.

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Kawasaki KLR Lowering Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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locate the OEM tie rods (circled in yellow, in the picture below), and the rear shock absorber snubber (circled in red, in the picture below). Notice that there is a tie rod on each side of the motorcycle. These tie rods are secured by two long bolts that pass first through the LH tie rod, then through the suspension, and finally held in place by two 17mm nuts on the RH side. Loosen these two 17mm bolts, and prepare them for removal. It helps to raise the rear tire just slightly with a jack or by a helper, to take the load off of these 17mm bolts. Below is another picture, better exposing the orange rubber snubber on the lower shock absorber rod… This is where the snubber spacers are installed, but don’t do it just yet…there’s more info on this later in the instructions. 3. Remove the 17mm nuts from the tie rods, keep the weight off of the rear wheel, and remove the upper and lower bolts from the tie rods. The rods are easily removed at this point. Take notice that the LH rod has recesses in each end, where the heads of the 17mm securing bolts fit. 4. Replace the tie rods with the new Scootworks tie rods in your kit. Install the tie rod with the recessed bolt holes on the LH side, with the recesses facing outward. Re-install the bolts from the LH side, through the LH tie rod, through the suspension, and through the RH tie rod. Secure them with the original nuts, and torque to 43 ft/lbs. The recessed bolt holes in the LH tie rod are seen in the picture of the Scootworks KLR tie rods below… 5. Do not install the plastic snubber spacers at this time. Lower the rear of the bike and remove the frame from the lift or jack stands. The rear lowering is completed. Sit on the motorcycle and determine if you’ve lowered it to a satisfactory level. If not, proceed to step #6. Your Scootworks KLR Lowering Kit is now installed. The following information is supplied as a supplement, to allow you to complete the job of lowering your bike that you’ve begun by using this Quality Scootworks product. NOTE: Be sure to check the chain tension after installation of the lowering kit, and adjust as necessary. Tips for setup and use of your lowering kit BE SURE to read the FAQ at the end of this document, for tips, warnings, and adjustments for your new lowering kit! Lowering the Front of your KLR-series Motorcycle

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SCOOTERS FRONT WHEEL/ FRONT BRAKE/ FRONT SUSPENSION INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL Jack the motorcycle front wheel off the ground. Remove the speedometer cable set screw and disconnect the speedometer cable. Remove the front brake cable. Remove the front axle nut and pull out the axle. Remove the front wheel. Remove the front brake panel. INSPECTION AXLE RUNOUT Set the axle in V blocks and measure the runout using a dial gauge. The actual runout is 1/2 of the total indicator reading. Service Limit : 0.2mm replace if over WHEEL RIM Check the wheel rim runout. Service Limits : Radial : 2.0mm replace if over Axial : 2.0mm replace if over Screw Speedometer Cable Front Brake Cable Axle Nut Axle Shaft 12 . FRONT WHEEL/FRONT BRAKE/ FRONT SUSPENSION 12-4 FRONT WHEEL BEARING Remove the side collar and dust seal. Turn the inner race of each bearing with your finger to see if they turn smoothly and quietly. Also check if the outer race fits tightly in the hub. Replace the bearings if the races do not turn smoothly, quietly, or if they fit loosely in the hub. BEARING REPLACEMENT Remove the front wheel bearings and distance collar. Bearing Remover Bearing Remover Head, 12mm Pack all bearing cavities with grease. Drive in the left bearing. Install the distance collar. Drive in the right bearing. Outer driver, 32x35mm Driver handle A Pilot, 12mm

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Ultima Billet Rear Shocks Installation Instruction Sheet

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Unloading the rear suspension Use a jack under a flat part of the motorcycle and lift until the rear tire is barely resting on the surface. This ensures that the shocks are unloaded. They are now ready for removal. Remove the old shocks Refer to the service manual specific to your motorcycle for this process. Unbolt the old shocks. Save the necessary hardware if you have not purchased new hardware. Installation Shocks should be installed with the preload adjuster on top (see Preload Adjustment). With the new shocks in hand; please go over the hardware configuration diagram (Figure 3) to decide which configuration best fits your application. Spacers are included to provide clearance between the shocks and your motorcycle (Figure 4). Typically start on which ever side the final drive is located. This side normally causes the clearance issues. Each eye and each side should be configured the same way. Make sure to use the proper hardware so that the shock- bushings fit the shock-bolts as snugly as possible. Shocks come with a 1/2″ ID bushing installed. This is needed for all applications. An optional bushing is included and should be used in addition when 3/8″ bolts are used instead of the larger 1/2″bolts. Unless new hardware was purchased, you will use the stock bolts from your old shocks to install the new shocks. Use Red Locktite (or equivalent) and use a torque wrench to tighten as follows: Models that use 1/2″ bolts: 65ft-lbs Models that use 3/8″ bolts: 30ft-lbs (Figures 1 & 2) Be sure to check clearance between the shock and the belt-guard. If there is any contact you will need to alter your spacer arrangement to accommodate this. Check tire to fender clearance as well. This clearance will be reduced when lowering shocks are used. Preload Adjustment Your new Ultima Billet Shocks are preload adjustable. Adjustment should be done once the shocks are installed. To adjust use a strap wrench and turn the top part of the shock (Figure 6) clock-wise to tighten or provide more preload (this stiffens the suspension), or counter-clockwise to loosen or subtract preload (this softens the suspension). Hand adjustments may be sufficient on models with smaller spring rates while the strap wrench will be required on the high spring rate shocks. You will see notches (Figure 6) that appear on the shock as the shock is preloaded. These should help you obtain the same preload for both sides of the motorcycle. Both shocks should be adjusted to the same level of preload.

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Harley Davidson Softails Airtail Suspension System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Step 1: Set the Bottoming Control This is the most important step and needs to be done first. Ideally, with the rear wheel off the ground take a measurement from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender (assuming the fender is mounted on the frame and not the swingarm). Then, with the motorcycle back on the ground and the rider on it, pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber until you get the same measurement —less 1 ¼ to 1 ½”. For example, if your first measurement was 10.0″ inches then your ending measurement should be between 8.50″ and 8.75″ inches. The difference between the two measurements is referred to as “sag”, and it should equal approximately one third of your total wheel travel (see figure 3). Another method of achieving the proper sag is it start with the bike on the ground — with no rider or load on it. Pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber to the highest pressure you can without exceeding 150 psi. At this point the rear wheel should be “topped out” and you need to measure from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender as described above. Take the same measurement with rider(s) on the bike — ready to ride. The second measurement should be 1¼” to 1½ ” less than the first. If it isn’t, then bleed off the pressure in the “Bottoming Control” chamber until the proper sag is achieved. If you intend to ride the bike at this “full height” then make sure you still put about 10 psi into the “Ride Height” chamber anyway. This helps the piston that separates the two chambers to move more freely producing a smoother ride. Step 2: Set the Ride Height After you have set the “Bottoming Control” you can now adjust the “Ride Height” chamber. This is a much simpler and less crucial adjustment to make. Simply pressurize the “Ride Height” chamber until the bike is lowered to the desired height. To raise the ride height back up, release pressure in the “Ride Height” chamber. Remember, the pressure in this chamber “holds” the bike down—the more pressure the lower it goes. Though the bike may feel “stiffer” the lower you go, do NOT re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” chamber. Essentially what’s happening here is as you’ve reduced your wheel travel, you’ve proportionally increased the forces that keep you from bottoming out with what wheel travel you have left. If you do need to re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” due the addition (or subtraction) of a passenger or extra load, release the pressure from the “Ride Height” chamber first, then repeat step 1.

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SUZUKI 2005-2006 GSX-R1000 MOTORCYCLES FRAME REINFORCEMENT BRACE INSTALLATION/FRAME REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Bodywork removal 1. Refer to section 8 of the service manual and remove the following: a) Right and left Under Cowlings (NOTE: Two of these screws will NOT be re-installed) b) Cover, Front Lower 2. Refer to section 7 of the service manual to remove the radiator mounting bolts. It is not necessary to remove the radiator. 3. Remove the Horn and the Front Engine Cover: a) Remove the Horn. b) Refer to page 3-5 of the service manual and remove the Front Engine Cover. (NOTE: This part will NOT be re-installed) NOTE: To view a video (approximately 10 minutes in length) of the inspection and installation procedure, click here (available on January 23, 2009). Frame inspection 1. Inspecting the frame for damage: a) Inspect the frame for cracks on the left and right sides of the frame as indicated in the photos and graphic below using the Dye Penetrant test kit which will be sent to your dealership by Jan.23th. This inspection has to be done not only on the outside but also on the inside of the frame spars. b) If no cracks are detected, thoroughly clean the frame area using a clean cloth (not a shop rag) and the kit cleaner to remove the dye penetrant used for the inspection. NOTE: * Protect the surrounding areas where inspection is not required from the overspray of the Dye Penetrant. * Read and understand the instructions and handling precautions of the Dye Penetrant before applying it. * If the motorcycle is excessively dirty, prewash it with soap and water before applying the Dye Penetrant.

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2006 Ninja ZX-14 Bikeland comes Full Circle

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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think it’s safe to say that none of us expected the newest incarnation of the ZX-12R – the Ninja ZX-14 – to look the way it does. Since its announcement in September 2005 Bikeland’s members questioned the ZX-14′s looks, its performance, its overall size and weight. In fact members have questioned pretty much everything about the ZX-14 from its George Foreman Grill RF900′esque strakes to the omission of the letter “R” in the model name. For months there has been little to do but wait, ponder, discuss, dissect and speculate about this bike. Kawasaki has remained amazingly tight lipped about the ZX-14 and its potential performance. I feel fortunate that Kawasaki has valued our members’ input throughout all these years enough to invite Bikeland to the World Press Introduction, and for that all of you should feel honored. This is a level of recognition we never expected when freek and I first sat down and decided to build the website. I don’t think that the membership of this site realizes the amount of work the staff at KMC have put into this event, and the birth of this model. The last two years have been an eye opening experience for all of us at Bikeland as we have had a front row seat (whether we knew it or not) to watch and participate in the creation of a brand new motorcycle. As your direct representative at this event I had some serious business to attend to. When I found out from Kawasaki that we could include a second rider from Bikeland, the choice was daunting. So many of you have contributed your thoughts and feelings, your technical knowledge and your expertise that we didn’t really know if there could be a single “right choice”. The decision was difficult but after much deliberating we asked MadMike to accompany me to this introduction, and our reasoning was purposeful

Installation manual for fork springs

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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1.) Motorcycle is securely jacked up on an assembly stand Jack up the bike at the front axis so that the fork is completely extended, not loaded and free to be moved. You might also hang up your bike using a cable or a hydraulic jack. 2. ) It is advisable to dismount the forks’ inner tubes because otherwise oil rests might remain in the lower part of the fork and the cartridge systems oil cannot be exchanged during drain off. Even degassing the fork is going to be much simpler this way. .) Take off brake callipers, front wheel and front fender Tip: 1. Check the owner’s repair manual of your motorbike for disassembly instruction. 2. Do not let the brake callipers dangle on the lines; rather fasten them with a cable tie or put them aside 4.) Measure the position of the fork inner tube inside the fork bridges Measure how far the fork bars jut out from the upper fork bridge then note down the exact amount in the text-box below. The protrude of the fork bars in mm Tip: Both bars should protrude exactly the same distance. 5.1) Loosen the clamping screws of the upper fork bridge 5.2) Release the fork caps for approximately one turn of the thread. 5.3) Loosen the clamping screws of the lower fork bridge. Tip: With some models, the clamping screws must be taken out completely.

2008 SUZUKI GSX 1300 RK IGNITION SWITCH INSPECTION/ REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 29-11-2010

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INSPECT ROUTING 1. Remove the upper and lower meter panels (refer to Service Manual page 9D-15). 2. Check if the ignition switch lead wire is clamped and routed correctly. Incorrect positions are shown in Figures 1 and 2. Correct routing and clamping is shown in Figures 3 and 4 on page 5. REROUTING 1. Reroute the ignition switch lead wire correctly (Figure 3 and Figure 4). The ignition switch lead wire should not be covered by the other wire harnesses. 2. Turn the handlebars back and forth to verify that the steering operates smoothly and the wiring harness does not become kinked or pinched. 3. Proceed to PUNCH MARK AT VIN on page 8. from the motorcycle (refer to Service Manual page 1H-12). Remove the two black plastic covers to access the cylinder cap mounting bolts (Figure 5). Note: The black plastic covers will not be reused. Secure the mount area (bottom) of the ignition switch in a vise (Figure 6). NOTE: Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the key from the ignition switch before disassembling the switch. Remove the two “break-off” screws from the ignition switch using the special screwdriver. Set the stepped end of the sleeve on the special screwdriver facing toward the “break-off” screws (Figure 7). Strike the special screwdriver 5 to 7 times with a hammer to produce a deep enough groove on the screw head for the screwdriver to work properly (Figure 6). Pay attention not to hit other parts with the hammer. Turn to remove the “break-off” screws in a counterclockwise direction. If the groove becomes damaged, make another groove at a 90o angle to the original groove. Remove the ignition switch from the vise and hold it upright over the workbench and carefully remove the cylinder cap (Figure 8). NOTE: Pay close attention to the order and orientation of the ignition switch parts during disassembly. REPLACEMENT OF IGNITION SWITCH (Customer Sold Units/Dealer Demo Units- Only If Inspection Shows Incorrect Routing And Unit Has Been Ridden) New Ignition Switch Disassembly 2.

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