HARLEY DAVIDSON WIRE LOOM AND HORNS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-02-2012

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Remove the stock horn and bracket from the stud it is mounted to and unplug the 2 wires. Remove the seat. Route the end of the wire and hose loom without the connectors. Starting in front of the fuel valve, route this loom behind the valve, over the fuel line over the rear cylinder head along the existing wiring or hoses – if your model has any. Follow the frame to where the back bone and seat support rails come together. Route the loom up into the general area where the compressor will mount (i.e. see diagram). Attach the hose to the ‘Y’ connector on the horns themselves. Attach the two black wires from the loom to the relay terminals #87 and #30, located between the air horns behind chrome cover. Attach the wires from the original horn to the remaining terminals #85 and #86 (NOTE: it makes no difference which wire goes to which terminal). Attach the relay to the back of the horn bracket assembly or up under the fuel tank using the small cable tie provided. NOTE: the terminals must point downward to prevent water from entering the relay! Install the horn assembly using the 1/4″ thick chrome washer provided behind the horn mounting bracket. Use the original acorn nut and tighten securely. Check to see that the horns have at least 1/4″ clearance between the engine, shift linkage and choke knob. They should be horizontal or angle down at the front just slightly. Take any slack out of the loom, keeping it up against the frame and away from the engine or exhaust, using several of the small cable ties provided. COMPRESSOR MOUNTING AND WIRING Due to the vast differences in years and models, it is not possible to have one or two brackets that will fit all models. You may need to mount the compressor in a different position or find an alternative location, such as under one of the side covers. On 2001 and newer Tour models there is room in front of the battery to mount it horizontally. On 1997-2000 fuel injected models, under the front portion of the right hand side cover is an excellent location. On most Softtail models you can attach it to the frame tube behind the rear cylinder. On some models such as Sportsters there may not be a place to conceal the compressor; there is a chrome cover and cap available to dress it up for exposed mounting. (RIVCO part no #CMPCR) If mounting the compressor vertically as pictured, try to keep the end with the electrical terminals pointing downward. You can use the long cable ties provided to attach the compressor to the frame or an existing wiring loom. Once the compressor has been mounted securely, route the hose and one of the wires to it and connect the hose to the air outlet barb or fitting. Trim the wire and crimp on one of the female blade terminals and attach to the (+) terminal. Attach the white ground wire supplied to frame close enough to the compressor, so the wire will reach. Trim and crimp another female terminal to it. Attach this wire to the (-) ground terminal. The remaining black wire from the hose/wire loom goes to the battery (+) terminal through the fuse and holder provided. Trim the black wire allowing for the length and placement of the fuse holder. Crimp together and attach to the battery (+) terminal. Turn ignition on and test horns. Check wires and hoses for neat, secure routing and at least 1″ away from exhaust system. Reinstall seat etc.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA SIDESHOTS BLACK INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2012

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Remove seat to gain access to rear oxygen sensor connector. Unplug sensor and feed end of wire through frame so that it is free from motorcycle. NOTE: Pay attention to wire routing for re-installation. 2. Remove two bolts holding rectifi er onto front of frame (near front tire). Open plastic cover to gain access to front oxygen sensor connector. Unplug sensor from harness. Remove cable tie holding wire to frame and feed end of wire through so that it is free from motorcycle. 3. Loosen heat shield clamps on both the front and rear head pipes. 4. Remove two cylinder exhaust port fl ange nuts from each head pipe, located at the cylinder head. 5. Remove front head pipe clamp bolt. 6. Remove the bolt that attaches muffl ers to the frame mounting bar. 7. Remove the complete exhaust system and set aside. Assistance may be required. 8. Remove stock mounting bar and the studs in the transmisson cover. Save the bolts, one will be re-used. 9. Remove left bolt below the transmission cover. Position mounting bracket 405-P over mounting location to determine which bolts to remove (Figure 1). Install this bolt in the top hole left vacant by the new bracket. 10. Carefully remove the fl anges and circlips from the stock exhaust system using snapring pliers. NOTE: Replace bent or damaged circlips. Check condition of stock exhaust gaskets. Replace if worn or damaged. (Recommended replacement exhaust port gaskets, Screamin’ Eagle part number 17048-98)

SUZUKI M50 / C50 Fuel Injected Models INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 19-02-2012

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1. Remove seat and left side covers. 2. Remove fuel tank. We highly recommend you consult the factory service manual for proper removal of fuel tank. Remove fuel tank rear mounting bracket 3. Route wiring harness under frame by fuel tank rear mounting bracket and up left side of the engine. (Fig. 1) 4. Unplug the TPS connector (black) and connect the two white 3-pin connectors in-line with the factory TPS connector. (Fig. 2) 5. Disconnect the factory connector from rear injector and connect to Fuelpak connector. (Fig. 3) 6. Connect other Fuelpak connector to injector. (Fig. 4) 7. Route black wire to battery negative connection as shown. (Fig. 5) 8. Attach Fuelpak to Fuelpak harness and mount next to battery with Velcro. (Fig. 6) 9. Follow the service manual to reinstall the fuel tank.

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Suzuki SV 650s OXFORD "Hot Grips" INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 14-02-2012

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Installation of heated grips on motorcycles is popular in the UK since it’s not unheard of for even the “fair weather biker” to be caught out by a cold snap. Add to this the fact that many operations on a bike are performed by the hands and fingers, which will not perform well when frozen! 1) Before fitting the grips to the SV, a position must be chosen for the controller. The grips, needless to say, have their mounting places predetermined. I chose to make a small bracket for mounting on the top yoke. This allows the control box to sit level with the top surface for an integrated look whilst remaining accessible for operation. First of all- The mounting bracket in place: Picture shows a strip of rubber on either side of the bracket to stop rubbing / vibrations. Using the flat base and sticky pad supplied, mount the controller on the bracket. 2) With the easy bit done, we need to turn attention to the installation of the power feed cable. It would be too easy to leave the grips switched on with the bike parked up, or for kids to switch them on draining the battery and leaving you stranded. With this in mind, we really want to use a suitably rated power feed that is only “on” when the ignition key is turned on. Fortunately enough, the “pointy” SV has a couple of spare contacts in the fuse box which can be tapped for this purpose

2000-2003 MXC / EXC Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 05-02-2012

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1. Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side anels. Stock switch Bracket Photo 2 EXC – Unplug and remove the stock headlight. (Photo 2.) Unplug the stock three-pin taillight connector and pull the taillight wires back to the rear of the airbox temporarily. MXC – Remove the stock front number plate. 3. Make sure the stock battery is oriented in its mounting bracket as shown with the positive terminal on the left side of the bike (as viewed if sitting on the bike). If not, remove and spin it 180 degrees

2000-2003 KTM MXC / EXC Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 01-02-2012

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Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels. Stock switch Bracket Photo 2 EXC – Unplug and remove the stock headlight. (Photo 2.) Unplug the stock three-pin taillight connector and pull the taillight wires back to the rear of the airbox temporarily. MXC – Remove the stock front number plate. 3. Make sure the stock battery is oriented in its mounting bracket as shown with the positive terminal on the left side of the bike (as viewed if sitting on the bike). If not, remove and spin it 180 degrees. Photo 3 4. MXC ONLY! (EXC skip this step.) Locate the stock lighting wiring harness zip-tied under the frame back-bone (See Photo 4). Remove the securing zip-ties and route this wiring forward to the area behind the headlight. Route along right side of frame using factory wire- guide clamp. 5. Brake Light Switch Installation: The KTM kit uses a hydraulic brake-switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the stock banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch as shown. Make sure to install

2004-2005 KTM 250/ 400/ 450/ 525 Side Panel Fuel Tank removal and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-01-2012

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1. Remove airbox cover. Drill stock rivet nut in frame tube through with a ¼” drill as shown in Photo 1. Drill completely through frame tube. We suggest you make a small guide hole in the top of the frame tube first so that you drill straight through the frame member and not come out the side of the frame tube. Photo 1 .Install Lower mounting bracket as shown in Photo 3 noting its orientation. Install the aluminum cone into the recess at the bottom of the stock airbox , then bolt the bracket on with the 6 x 70 mm bolt. Nylock nut threads to top of bolt on top of frame tube as shown in photo 2. Photo 3 2 3. Install the upper mounting bracket shown in Photo 4. Note that in either the MXC or the EXC installation four to six of the 6 x 18 mm fender washers should be installed between the bracket and the subframe. The counter-sunk hole should be positioned toward the rear wheel. Leave the bracket slightly loose until step 6. Photo 4 The best routing for the fuel line (Photo 5 & 6 ) requires drilling holes in the airbox. See Step 4 for hole locations. 4. Drill a 3/8″ hole at the front left corner of the airbox as shown in Photo 6. Make sure the location you choose will not result in the hole coming out behind the frame tube or into the rubber airbox boot. Be very careful drilling this hole.

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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Yamaha TDM900 Installing and removal the Vacuum Actuator

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 28-12-2011

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Attach the cable adjuster to the bracket. Position the adjuster so that it is screwed all the way in. Do not tighten the lock nuts on the adjuster yet. • Route the new ‘carburettor’ cable around and out the RHS of the bike under the frame rail as shown in the following photos. Installing the Vacuum Actuator • Mount the actuator on the RHS fairing support using the bracket provided and two bolts, nuts and flat washers. The mounting bracket fits on the inside face of the fairing bracket. The small plate fits on the outside and clamps the actuator to the faring frame.

2007-2010 HONDA CBR 600RR DUAL CANISTER SLIP-ON INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-12-2011

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Hyperflo must insist that this system be used for track and closed course use only. Professional installation is recommended. Before beginning installation, please insure your motorcycle exhaust and omponents are not hot and have had ample time to cool. Please insure the motorcycle has been secured properly and is on level ground. We recommend the use of a service table. Hyperflo offers professional installation help at 801.999.8183. • 2 CARBON FIBER CANISTERS
• 2 END TIPS  (Options: Classic or Billet Stylewith sound cores) • MIDPIPE • 2 SPRINGS • 1 CLAMP
• UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH BLINKERS ATTACHED • LOWER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH TAIL LIGHT AND PLATE MOUNTS • BRACKET BOLT (8MM X 75MM 1.25T) • EXTRA STICKERS • 8 TERMINAL ENDS/BUTT SPLICES 20072010 HONDA CBR 600RR DUAL CANISTER SLIPON INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ PARTS LIST
YPERFLO RECOMMENDS THAT YOU LABEL SMALL PLASTIC BAGGIES TO KEEP HARDWARE SORTED AS IT IS REMOVED.
HARDWARE SORTED AS IT IS REMOVED. 1. INSURE THE EXHAUST SYSTEM AND EXHAUST COMPONENTS ARE FULLY COOLED. 2. INSURE THE MOTORCYCLE IS STABLE ON KICKSTAND OR REAR TIRESTAND OR SERVICE TABLE. 3. REMOVE BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR SEATS. 4. REMOVE THE 4 BOLTS HOLDING THE TAIL FAIRING TO THE SUBFRAME AND REMOVE THE TAIL FAIRING. REMOVE 5. REMOVE TRIM PLASTIC JUST ABOVE RIGHT SIDE FOOTPEG. (REMOVE THE ONE BOLT AND UNCLIP) TRIM PLASTIC UNCLIP REMOVE 6. REMOVE LOWER FOOT PEG BRACKET AND REMOVE THE HEAT SHIELD BOLT. ALLOW THE FOOT PEG BRACKET TO HANG BY THE HOSE AND WIRES. REMOVE 7. REMOVE THE PASSANGER FOOT PEG BRACKET ON THE RIGHT SIDE.

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