HARLEY DAVIDSON FLHT OIL PRESSURE AND AIR TEMPERATURE GAUGE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Oil Pressure Sending Unit To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 1 2 3 4 is04574 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Cam position sensor 3. Crank position sensor 4. Main harness to ECM Figure 1. Electrical Bracket: 2000-2001 Fuel Injected Models (Magnetti-Marelli) 1 2 3 is04575 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Crankshaft position sensor 3. P&A siren kit Figure 2. Electrical Bracket (ECM Removed) 2002-2003 Fuel Injected Models (Delphi) -J01875 1 of 4 NOTE For 2002 to 2003 models: See Figure 2. Remove the two screws securing the ECM and remove the ECM to access the electrical bracket. 2. For 2004 and later models: Proceed to the Gauges section. For 2000 to 2003 models: See Figure 1, Figure 2 and Figure 3 for the applicable model and locate the sensor harness connector (2-piece mini-Deutsch® connector). 3 2 4 1 is04576 1. Ignition harness 2. Cam position sensor 3. Oil pressure sending unit 4. Crankshaft position sensor Figure 3. Ignition Module – Carbureted Models 3. Locate the oil pressure sending unit at the front right side of the crankcase and pull wire socket from terminal of the oil pressure sending unit. 4. Carefully draw the conduit and the pin side of mini-Deutsch connector forward and then up between the rear brake master cylinder reservoir and the frame downtube to area of the rear brake pedal. 5. See Figure 4. Remove the secondary locking wedge (3) from the pin side of the connector with a needle nose pliers. 1 3 2 is04577 1. Pin 2. Wire seal 3. Locking wedge Figure 4. Deutsch Connector Pin Side (2-pin connector shown) 6. Gently depress terminal latches inside pin housing and back out the pin in chamber #1 through the hole in wire seal. 7. Pull the oil sending unit wire through conduit and remove wire. Note the routing of the wire. 8. See Figure 9. Route the jumper (6) pins through the conduit from the kit in the same direction as the original wire noted in Step 7. Use cable straps to secure to the wire bundle. 9. See Figure 5. Locate pin chambers #1 and #2 on pin side of connector. Insert brown/green jumper pin into chamber #2 and feed until it clicks into place. Verify that pin will not back out of the chamber by giving a slight tug on the wire to confirm that it is locked

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Oil Pressure Gauge Set Installation

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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7. See Figure 3-4 . Assemble banjo bolt (3), washer (4), OIL PRESSURE GAUGE (1) banjo fitting and second washer onto adapter and tighten snugly. 8. Temporarily secure oil pressure gauge and hose to motorcycle frame with cable straps. Make sure gauge and hose assembly do not interfere with normal operation of the vehicle. Start engine and ride motorcycle at least 20 miles (32 km) at or above 50 mph (80 km/h) to allow engine to reach operating temperature. a. At 2500 RPM, oil pressure will vary from 10-17 psi (69-117 kN/m2). b. At idle speed (950-1050 RPM), oil pressure will vary from 7-12 psi (48-83 kN/m2). NOTE For an accurate reading, engine oil should be at normal operating temperature: 230°F (110°C). 9. Stop engine. Remove OIL PRESSURE GAUGE assembly from oil pressure indicator lamp switch mounting hole in crankcase. Cut cable straps that you installed in step 8. above, and remove banjo bolt, gauge assembly, washers and adapter from vehicle. 10. See Figure 3-2 . Coat threads of oil pressure switch (2) with LOCTITE 565 HIGH PERFORMANCE PIPE SEALANT with TEFLON. Reinstall oil pressure switch. Using OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT WRENCH, tighten switch snugly. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. 11. Plug in connector [120] (3) by pushing elbow connector straight up onto stud on oil pressure switch. 12. Install voltage regulator caddy and attach DC output connector and neutral switch wiring harness to caddy. See 7.28 MAIN WIRING HARNESS . NOTE If an appreciable amount of oil leaked out when oil pressure switch was removed, it will have to be replaced with fresh oil. 13. Check oil level in oil tank. See 1.5 ENGINE OIL AND FILTER . Top off oil level if necessary. 14. Start engine and test oil pressure switch for proper operation. Check oil pressure switch for leaks.

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2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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Adaptor for later models with 1/ 8-27 straight threads when oil light is not used

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. To Assemble: Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor (shown left). Thread the adaptor with the fitting attached into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. Make sure the thread is 1/8-27 straight thread not a tapered pipe thread. Over-tightening a 1/8 straight male thread into a 1/8-27 NPT female tapped hole may result in case splitting. See “Oil line” above. Tuck un-used oil light wire up inside instrument housing. Oil light then becomes an ignition light.

Triumph Center Mount Oil Pressure Gauge with active oil light Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the two hex head screws and spacers that secure the handlebars. Attach the oil pressure mounting bracket using the bolts removed earlier. It is not necessary to use the spacers as the bracket is the same thickness as the spacers that were removed. Make sure the oil pressure gauge bracket is clamped securely so that the handlebars cannot rotate. This part of the assembly is complete. Do not tighten the fitting mounted on the far side of the Swivel body. This fitting is designed to rotate and is sealed in place with Loctite 242 thread sealant. Over tightening will shear the threads resulting in destruction of the fitting. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. The Swivel and Swivel Adaptor are supplied assembled. Remove the plug from the rear of the Swivel. Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor. There is an ‘O’-ring seal between the Adaptor and the Swivel, leaving the two assembled will prevent damage to the seal. Thread the Adaptor, with Swivel still attached, into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. With the use of a 5/32″ Allan wrench, reach inside the Swivel and tighten the Swivel against the Adaptor. Install the original oil pressure sending unit in the top port as shown using the new copper crush washer supplied. Use a wrench on both the Swivel and the original oil pressure sending unit to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Reinstall the 1/8 NPT plug in the end of the Swivel using with the use of a 3/16″ Allan wrench. Use Loctite 242 or equivalent semi-permanent thread sealant at this junction. Do not over tighten. Use a 3/16″ Allan wrench on the plug and an open end wrench on the Swivel to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Next, attach one end of the oil pressure line to the swivel fitting (located far side) by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. Routing: Next, route the other end of the tube up along the frame and in front of the steering head over to the fitting in the gauge body. Avoid the exhaust pipes when routing the tubing. Push the end of the tube into the gauge fitting as was done at the swivel fitting at the other end of the tube. The tubing can be removed and cut to the length required by your routing. Make sure there is enough service loop remaining so

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