Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

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1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

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