KAWASAKI Undertail Installation AND Removal instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 26-04-2012

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1- MASKING TAPE 2- DRILL 3- PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER 4- HAND SAW BLADE OR DREMMEL 5- DRILL BIT # 3/16 (TABS – AREA NEAR LENSES ) 6- DRILL BIT # 15/64 (NYLON SCREW RIVETS FOR THE BACK) 7- ELECTRIC TAPE WHAT COMES WITH THIS UNDERTAIL? 2 RED LED BULBS 2 SCREWS REMOVE THE REAR SECTION OF THE BODY There are plastic body connectors as well as bolts inside the tail in addition to the Allen-head bolts on the outside surface. NOTE: KEEP YOUR STOCK RIVETS FOR LATER USE. REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT

YAMAHA ROYAL STAR VENTURE CENTERSTAND REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Stand Installation. Locate the four mounting holes on the frame that correspond with the holes in the centerstand. Slide the front of the centerstand up into the frame and align the large bolt holes with those in the frame. Install the (2) 7/16″ x 1″ bolts with washers thru the frame and centerstand. Install the (2) 7/16″ nuts and make finger tight. (on California models the fuel tank vent canister must be removed and the hoses bypassed see note below) Pivot the rear of the centerstand up to align the (2) smaller holes in the stand with those in the frame. Insert a phillips screwdriver into one of the (2) remaining mounting holes and pry the other hole into alignment. Install one of the ¼” x ¾” bolt with a washer from the top down thru the frame and centerstand. Install the lock nut finger tight. Remove the screwdriver and install the remaining ¼”x¾” bolt washer and nut. Tighten the ¼ ” bolts securely 10-12 ft. lbs., then tighten the 7/16″ bolts securely 20-24 ft. lbs. 2. Stop Bumper Installation. Next install the centerstand-stop bumper and bracket onto the frame. Locate the bolt “A” in photo #1. Notice there is another 10 mm bolt just below it. Remove the lower bolt. Attach the bumper bracket to this hole using the longer bolt and washer supplied. The leg of the bracket with the bumper should face inward towards the center of the motorcycle. Adjust the height of the bracket to keep the pedal arm 3/8″ to ½” from the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Tighten securely. 3. Emissions Valve Relocation. You will notice that the right leg of the stand near the foot comes in contact with the emissions valve. The valve needs to be moved outward or to the right as you are sitting on the motorcycle approximately ¾”. This is done as follows: Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts holding the emission valve and bracket to the frame. See photo #2. With the hoses still attached pull the valve down to gain access to the (3) allen screws. Remove the (3) allen screws and (2) nuts holding the bracket to the valve, turn the bracket over and re-assemble the valve onto the bracket as shown in photo #3. Re-install the valve onto the frame. You may need to rotate the hose clamp clips out of the way and/or bend the entire valve bracket assembly outward slightly to gain clearance between the centerstand leg and foot. 4. Using Your New Centerstand. To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now, put all of your weight on to the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up on to the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting! 5. Getting the Bike Down off the Centerstand. Holding the left handle bar and saddlebag guardrail, firmly rock the motorcycle off the centerstand. You can also rock it off while sitting on the motorcycle.

HONDA GL1500 Headlamp Adjustments Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Headlamp Adjusting Procedure Tools needed • Long, slender #1 Phillips screwdriver (for adjusters behind the rubber plugs) • #2 Phillips screwdriver (for the other adjuster screw) • 12-inch square of cardboard • Flat wall or garage door • Paper, tape, marker NOTE: All adjustments are very fine. You have to turn the screws A LOT to see changes in adjustment. This procedure is best done after dark, because you will need to do some test rides. Preparation 1. Set the bike on its center stand, 10 feet away from an unobstructed wall or garage door, and square to the wall or door. 2. Remove the front fairing cover and lower vent grille to gain access to the headlamp adjusters. 3. Idle the engine or connect a battery charger to the battery, to prevent battery drain. Headlamp assembly viewed from the front, showing positions of mirrors and adjusters (pretend the lens has been removed) . Low Beam Vertical Alignment 1. With the lights on low beam, cover the right half of the lamp assembly with the cardboard square, so only the left bulb is shining on the wall. 2. Using a marker, mark the top of the left low beam on the wall (use paper taped to the wall if you don’t want to mark the wall itself) . 3. Move the cardboard so it blocks the left bulb, so only the right bulb is shining on the wall. 4. The top of the right low beam should be even with the mark you made for the left low beam. If it’s not, adjust by turning the screw behind the rubber plug at the top of the lamp assembly, using a long, slender #1 Phillips screwdriver. 5. Move the cardboard back and forth between the bulbs to verify that the low beams are at the same height. On high beam, the two hotspots should line up vertically. High Beam Vertical Adjustment 1. With the lights on high beam, note the position of the beams’ hot spots on the wall in relation to the mark you made in step 5 above. 2. Most owners complain about their low beams being too low on the roadway. To correct this, lower the high beams by turning the screw behind the rubber plug at the bottom of the headlamp assembly, using a long, slender #1 Phillips screwdriver. You can watch the high beam hot spot being lowered on the wall in relation to the mark you made. 3. Take a test ride. Get out on a dark street, and adjust the high beams using the dash knob until you like what you can see. Then switch to low beam and see how that looks. 4. Repeat these steps until you get the low beam pattern you want. Left/Right Adjustment 1. Back to the wall. Set the bike on its center stand at a distance of 25 feet from the wall and square to the wall. Center the front wheel. 2. Shine the high beams on the wall. 3. Step to the back of the bike, and level your eye with the center of the passenger backrest. Use the center of the backrest and the center of the windshield like a gunsight. The center of the hotspot of the high beam should hit the wall in this line. 4. Adjust by turning the uncovered screw at the bottom of the headlamp assembly, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver.

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HONDA GL 1500 FRONT FENDER EXTENSION INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-02-2011

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1. Remove items as shown using straight blade screwdriver. Pry off the two fork cover caps and with a 5mm allen wrench, unfasten the two bolts (Figure 1A). Remove fork cover. a. Pull outward and forward to remove left hand side covers. (Figure 1B) b. Using 8mm and 10mm wrenches, remove the three bolts from the left hand disc cover. Repeat for right side disc cover. (Note for re-installation; the top 10mm bolts (Figure 1C) do not have collars included.) c. Using the Phillips screwdriver, unfasten speedometer cable (figure 1D) d. Using the 8mm wrench, remove the left hand side fender bolts (figure 1E) e. Using the 8mm allen wrench, remove the four top bolts (figure 1F) from the fork stay bracket, and remove bracket. 2. With the rear fender off the motorcycle, hold front fender extension in place and using center punch and hammer, light tap the three drilling locations (figure A). Set the fender extension aside and drill three ¼ inch holes at marked locations (figure B). 3. Attach fender extension to fender with hardware provided (figure 3). 4. Re-install all items previously removed in step 1.

HARLEY DAVIDSON HERITAGE REAR FENDER RAIL DISASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-02-2011

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DISASSEMBLY NOTE See Figure 1. Saddlebags must be removed to insert spacer (1). 1. Using a small flat head screw driver, remove rear fender tip light lens cover (A) by gently prying cover away from assembly. (There is a notch at top of cover to ease removal.) Remove and retain cover (A) and gasket (C). 2. Remove fender tip light assembly (B) by removing two screws, four star washers, and two nuts (not shown) using a #2 Phillips screw driver and a 3/8 inch wrench. Retain all hardware for reassembly. 3. Remove hole plugs from rearmost fender strut holes on both sides of fender. 4. Mark fender on both sides of bike using rear most fender strut hole as a template. Do not contact tire with drill bit when drilling fender holes. Drill bit contact with tire can lead to premature tire failure, which could result in death or serious injury. (00403f) 5. Carefully remove fender strut and drill a 11/32 inch hole through each side of fender in locations marked in Step 4. 6. Loosely reinstall fender strut (D), allowing enough room to slip spacer (1) between fender (E) and strut. INSTALLATION 1. Align rear fender rail (2) from kit with rearmost fender strut (D) mounting holes, making sure lower mounting tab (3) is inside fender (E). Place large chrome washer (4) from kit next to head of button head socket bolts (5) from kit. Insert bolt through fender rail (2), fender strut (D), spacer (1) and fender (E), in that order. Install large unfinished washer (6) from kit onto end of bolt (5). Secure assembly into place by threading locknuts (7) from kit onto ends of bolts (5) from inside of fender (E). Tighten loosely at this time. 2. Install truss head screw (8) from kit through fender (E) and rear fender rail mounting tab (3). Secure into place using small washer (9) and locknut (10) from kit. Use #2 Phillips screwdriver and a 3/8 inch wrench to tighten rear mounting assembly securely. 3. Tighten fender strut bolts (5) to 21-27 ft-lbs.(28-37 Nm) 4. Reinstall fender tip light assembly (B), gasket (C) and lens (A) using original hardware (not shown)

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TRIUMPH ROCKET III DRIVER FLOOR BOARDS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 24-12-2010

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1. Starting on the left (shifter) side remove shifter pivot bolt (large allen head). Rotate the shifter assembly out of the way. Remove the retaining clip from the bottom of the foot peg pivot pin. Remove the pin and the foot peg. 2. Install the left floorboard in the original foot peg mounting location. (Note the L & R markings on the backside of the mounting blocks.) Place the allen bolt (supplied) through the original mount and the floorboard. It may also help to use the shank of a Phillips screwdriver in the bolthole at the same time to help align the holes. In some cases due to variances in the stock foot peg bracket it you may need to use a 25/64″ (.390) drill bit and drill thru both the bracket and the floorboards mounting block to allow the bolt to go thru. The blocks and their holes are machined to exact tolerances and is kept as close as possible to the size of the peg bracket so that there will not be any looseness or drooping of the floorboards when installed. Thread one of the Ny-loc nuts (supplied) onto the bolt and tighten securely. Reinstall shifter assembly and tighten securely. 3. Repeat for right side and re-check hardware for tightness. (The brake assembly will not need to be removed.)