2007 KTM EXC LED Taillight and Turn Signal Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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Remove the seat & fuel tank. Photo 1 Unplug 2. Unplug the two three-pin connectors that mate the taillight & turn signal power leads to the stock wiring harness on top of the airbox. See Photo 1. 3. Unbolt and remove the stock taillight & rear turn signal assembly from the rear fender. The wires & connectors will pull through the gap in the fender/airbox plastic with a little finesse. 4. Unplug the two small white plastic connectors near the upper edge of the stock taillight lens and separate the wire extension from the taillight. See Photo 2. Photo 2 Unplug these two connectors and remove wire extension Photo 3 Remove 5. Using a sharp blade or cut-off wheel, remove the two molded mounting bosses on the bottom of the fender. See Photo 3. 6. Attach the new LED taillight to the fender as shown using the provided countersunk mounting hardware. Use the two longer bolts for the front mounts. The LED cluster should not protrude beyond the edge of the fender

YAMAHA ROYAL STAR VENTURE CENTERSTAND REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Stand Installation. Locate the four mounting holes on the frame that correspond with the holes in the centerstand. Slide the front of the centerstand up into the frame and align the large bolt holes with those in the frame. Install the (2) 7/16″ x 1″ bolts with washers thru the frame and centerstand. Install the (2) 7/16″ nuts and make finger tight. (on California models the fuel tank vent canister must be removed and the hoses bypassed see note below) Pivot the rear of the centerstand up to align the (2) smaller holes in the stand with those in the frame. Insert a phillips screwdriver into one of the (2) remaining mounting holes and pry the other hole into alignment. Install one of the ¼” x ¾” bolt with a washer from the top down thru the frame and centerstand. Install the lock nut finger tight. Remove the screwdriver and install the remaining ¼”x¾” bolt washer and nut. Tighten the ¼ ” bolts securely 10-12 ft. lbs., then tighten the 7/16″ bolts securely 20-24 ft. lbs. 2. Stop Bumper Installation. Next install the centerstand-stop bumper and bracket onto the frame. Locate the bolt “A” in photo #1. Notice there is another 10 mm bolt just below it. Remove the lower bolt. Attach the bumper bracket to this hole using the longer bolt and washer supplied. The leg of the bracket with the bumper should face inward towards the center of the motorcycle. Adjust the height of the bracket to keep the pedal arm 3/8″ to ½” from the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Tighten securely. 3. Emissions Valve Relocation. You will notice that the right leg of the stand near the foot comes in contact with the emissions valve. The valve needs to be moved outward or to the right as you are sitting on the motorcycle approximately ¾”. This is done as follows: Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts holding the emission valve and bracket to the frame. See photo #2. With the hoses still attached pull the valve down to gain access to the (3) allen screws. Remove the (3) allen screws and (2) nuts holding the bracket to the valve, turn the bracket over and re-assemble the valve onto the bracket as shown in photo #3. Re-install the valve onto the frame. You may need to rotate the hose clamp clips out of the way and/or bend the entire valve bracket assembly outward slightly to gain clearance between the centerstand leg and foot. 4. Using Your New Centerstand. To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now, put all of your weight on to the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up on to the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting! 5. Getting the Bike Down off the Centerstand. Holding the left handle bar and saddlebag guardrail, firmly rock the motorcycle off the centerstand. You can also rock it off while sitting on the motorcycle.

Toyota Truck Park Brake Bellcrank Repair

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 01-10-2011

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Toyota trucks including Tacoma, T100 and Tundra with rear drum brakes use a bellcrank apparatus through the brake backing plate as part of the parking brake system. These bellcranks, made of aluminum and steel are known for seizing up. The photo below (fig.1) shows the tell tale sign of a seized bellcrank, this one being on the right side. The sagging cable that runs across the differential is a warning. If you notice this you need to check the action of the bellcranks before using the parking brake further. Using the parking brake with this condition can cause damage to the brake shoes and drum.
2 Removing Toyota Drums If you have never removed your drums, you will likely find that they are stuck in place. Rust tends to build up between the drum and hub flange making them difficult to remove.

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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