Harley-Davidson Big Twin Evolution and Twin Cam Edelbrock/ JE Sport INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSsman Pistons

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Note: All Evolution® “Big Twin” pistons are marked “Front” or “Rear” and come with rings, wrist pins, and locks. • Note: We highly recommend that a dealer or trained mechanic perform the installation of these pistons. Specialized equipment is required for honing and finishing the cylinders to ensure long life of the piston and cylinder assembly. 1. Remove original equipment cylinders from engine. Refer to a shop manual or other reference book for specific steps, if needed. (Note: Care should be taken not to bend the studs or damage the cylinder during removal of the cylinders.) 2. With a small screwdriver, move the wrist pin retainer around to gain access to the tail of the retainer as it lines up with the notch in the bottom of the wrist pin hole. 3. Use a small screwdriver, pick or awl to roll the wrist pin retainer out of its groove. 4. Push wrist pin out and remove piston. 5. Repeat procedure for the other piston. 6. At this point, take cylinders, new pistons, and piston-to-wall clearance specifications to your dealer or machine shop to perform necessary machining operations. • IMPORTANT NOTE (Evolution® and Twin Cam®): The cylinder bore must be machined/honed to provide .0025″ of piston-to-wall clearance. Measure the piston diameter at a point .500″ up from the lower skirt (See Figure 3). 7. Starting with the front cylinder, install new piston rings and one wrist pin retaining clip (Note: Second ring has a dot which must face up when the ring is installed) . 8. Place the piston over the conecting rod, making sure that the intake valve pocket is towards the intake side. (For Evolution ® , see Figure 1. For Twin Cam ® , see Figure 2) . Coat the wrist pin with engine oil and insert it into the piston. Install the second wrist pin retainer into the groove. 9. Lightly coat the piston skirt with engine oil. Place a piston ring compressor over the piston/ring assembly and compress. Place the cylinder over the piston and gently push down until all rings are in the cylinder. Remove the ring compressor, and push the cylinder the rest of the way down. (Note: Be careful not to get oil onto the base gasket.) 10. Place two nuts and washers on opposite corners of the #1 cylinder to hold it down while you repeat the procedure for cylinder #2. 11. Assemble the rest of the engine per factory specifications. Start the engine and let it run at 2000 rpm for about 10 minutes.

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2000-2002 Aprilia Falco INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory varies quite a bit from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either part. 4) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2919-00 into the recess area where the stock, Allen-head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 knubs that hang downward, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the 14mm Allen nut, without any washer, to your factory specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and a maximum of 85 ft.lbs. 5) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! 6) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts and washers. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 7) Install the frame bracket (part #22-8636-00) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. Make sure it does not make contact with the triple clamp. We’ve machined a recess on one side of this bracket to allow for extra clearance (see photo below). The casting ridge on the back of your triple clamp can vary from bike to bike, which might require some slight filing of that ridged seam to avoid contact with our frame bracket. 8) Now check to be sure the tower pin is not abrazing the tank. The tank mounts are adjustable, try to position the tank so nothing is touching. In some rare cases you might have to elongate the rear tank mounting brackets to allow clearance at the front. Use Loc-tite on the longer Allen bolts supplied and tighten the frame bracket 9) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 10) Since the tank is rubber mounted, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 11) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

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