1999-2001 Harley-Davidson Twin Cam 88 FI Controller Installation MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-03-2012

download
Remove the seat. Remove or raise the fuel tank. The tank needs to be raised enough to give access to the fuel injectors and TPS wires. Unplug the front injector. On the FI Controller, there are 2 pairs of injector connectors. Plug the pair with the orange wires into the front cylinder injector harness and front cylinder injector. Repeat this using the other connector pair and the rear cylinder injector. Locate the TPS connector behind the throttle body. STEP 1 STEP3 STEP2 Installation Part# DFCH-2 2 Rear Cylinder Injector Front Cylinder Injector TPS Connector STEP 3 STEP 2 STEP1 Unplug the connector from the TPS. Crimp the wire tap onto the wire that is grey with a purple stripe. This wire should be in position “C” on the connector. Plug the grey wire from the FI Controller into the wire tap. Run the wiring harness for the FI Controller from the engine to the seat. Make sure that it will not get damaged when you reinstall the tank. Use one of the wire ties to tie the wires to the frame, away from the cylinder head. Place the FI Controller where you plan on mounting it permanently. In most cases, this will be under the seat. Connect the ground lug (black wire) to a grounding point on the bike. Use the Velcro tape to mount the FI Controller in position. Use alcohol swab to clean mounting surface prior to attaching Velcro. Reinstall fuel tank and seat. STEP 4 STEP 6 STEP 5 STEP4 STEP6 STEP5 Installation Part# DFCH-2 3 FI Controller
For Tech Support: 800.928.3962 Controls The FI Controller is preprogrammed with 4 base fuel curves. The curves are selected using the switch labeled BASE. These curves adjust fuel delivery based on throttle position and RPM, providing the right amount of fuel under all conditions. The 4 fuel curves correspond to varying levels of performance modifications. The levels of modification are broken down into the following groups. Base Curve 1 – Stock or basic modifications. This includes slip on exhausts, intakes, air boxes, and air filters. It will also work for headers or full exhaust systems. Base Curve 2 – Motor upgrades. This includes cams, 95 ci motors. Base Curve 3 – More extensive motor upgrades. This includes 103 ci motors, cams, ported heads

AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

0

Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

Incoming search terms:

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL- WIDTH REAR WHEEL HUBS

0

Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
The numbers shown thus: (2), refer to the num­ bered parts in the illustration. (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gearbox in position. (c) Remove the wheel from the frame. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Slacken the circlip lock-nut (13). (f) Unscrew and remove the adjusting sleeve (14). With it will come: the sleeve (2) upon which the speedometer-drive No. 504 gearbox is mounted; the lock-nut (13) and the hub cover disc. (g) From the brake side of the wheel remove the spindle nut (19) and washer (18), the spacer for the fork end (17), and the outer spacer (20) (h) Withdraw the brake cover plate com­ plete with the brake shoes from the brake drum. (i) Remove the inner spacer (12). (j) If it is desired to remove the brake drum, take off the nuts (23) and washers (24). and pull the drum away from the hub. It is located on a spigot in the hub. The bolts (25) will remain in the hub and can be pushed out. (k) Press out the spindle (1). It can be withdrawn from either side and pushed out with a press and a suitable brass or copper rod of slightly less diameter than the spindle, or driven out with a ham­ mer and a copper or brass drift. (1) Remove the oil-seal retaining washer (3). the oil seal (4), the oil-seal cup (5), and oil-seal distance piece (6). These can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw-driver