Street Fork Spring Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 13-02-2011

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1. Remove fork springs according to instructions contained in your shop manual. For maximum performance we highly recommend that the forks be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and new fork oil installed. Note: If your motorcycle comes equipped with two fork springs in each leg (long & short), remove and discard both springs and the flat washer between the springs. If a stock spacer exits, remove it. If there is a short spring on the damper rod, do not remove it! 2. Use the recommended fork oil viscosity as noted in your owners manual with the following exceptions: GL1100 20 weight, GL1200/1500 15 weight required. See fine tuning for more in- formation. Fork oil level/volume should be checked according to the steps outlined in your authorized shop manual. Measurement of your fork oil by level is the preferred method. However, some manuals only specify a volume measurement. Due to the design of a progressive wound fork spring it will displace more oil thus requiring a maximum oil level of 5.5″ (140mm). Caution: This is not a recommendation, it is only a precautionary statement. If your manual specifies an oil level higher than 5.5″ (140mm) set the oil level at 5.5″ (140mm). (Oil level is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the fork completely collapsed and the fork spring removed see figure 1.) This measurement can be made by using either one of the Progressive Suspension Fork Oil Level Adjusters (FOL-1 or FOL-2). 3. Install your new fork springs into the forks. Mechanically, it makes no difference which way the springs are installed. Some manuals will state; install the spring with the close wound end towards the bottom. This is done because sometimes there will be less spring noise. The springs will perform exactly the same regardless of which direction they are placed. Check the spacer length requirement for your motorcycle in the enclosed supplement. If not listed, you must calculate the pre-load. What is pre-load? Pre-load is the distance the spring compresses when the fork cap is installed. You may or may not utilize a spacer to achieve proper pre-load. The spacer in itself is not “pre-load”. It just helps to achieve it. Why is pre-load important? It determines the proper ride height which in turn affects how the bike handles.

Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines, Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-10-2010

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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