Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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Harley Davidson Speedo Healer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-03-2012

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a) Locate the three wire Deutsche connector that is situated behind the left hand side panel as viewed from the rear of the bike. This is normally grey in colour, and the wires are coloured red, white and black. This connector connects the rear wheel sensor to the electronic speedo head. OEM Connector b) The table below shows the function of each wire Colour Function Red +ve volts White Signal to Speedo Black GND Green Signal from Rear Pickup The +ve volts red wire should be between 8 and 12 volts, typically it is only 8 volts which is on the limit of the Speedohealer range and it is necessary to source an alternative 12 volts supply e.g. from the fuse box. I used a feed from the accessory supply which is an Orange/White wire (You need a switched +12V so don’t use the battery positive terminal.) c) Tap into the wires from the rear wheel pick and solder the Speedo healer ensuring to use the provided heat shrink cable to cover the finished work. Wiring loom Note the red wire is not used from the connector. The green wire is the feed from the rear wheel sensor which is connected to the input wire (white or yellow) of the Speedohealer. The output of the Speedohealer which is the blue wire is connected to the white wire which goes to the Harley speedo. d) Get the power from the fuse box Alternative 12 volt from fuse box Alternative 12 volt from fuse box closeup e) A suitable location for the Speedohealer is on the side of the battery box. It can be fixed by using a cable tie. Fitted to battery box f) Finally this is the OEM electronic speedo (as seen from the front and rear) and the rear wheel pickup

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Harley Davidson KNIGHT PROWLER BELT DRIVE Installation Procedures

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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STEP 1: Place bike on suitable stand where rear wheel can be rotated in 4th or 5th gear when necessary. STEP 2: Remove front exhaust pipe. If necessary, remove as a one-piece unit. * Tip – Removing front floorboard will help a lot. STEP 3: Using easiest method – bolt cutter, etc. -remove pushrods and discard. We recommend using the S&S Quickee install pushrods and S&S roller tappets WITHOUT travel limiters. Remove tappet covers and tappets. STEP 4: Remove outer cam cover and rotate engine until timing marks are aligned together. STEP 5: Using Harley-Davidson service manual procedure, retract the outer chain tension shoe. STEP 6: Remove crankshaft and crankshaft sprocket retaining bolts using Harley-Davidson service manual procedure and tools. Continue to the next page for special instructions concerning this step with 06-DYNA & CHAIN DRIVE MODELS and also with 1999 THRU 2006 CHAIN DRIVE MODELS

A Comparison of Stopping Distance Performance for Motorcycles Equipped with ABS, CBS and Conventional Hydraulic Brake Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-02-2012

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Surface Tests On the ABS-equipped motorcycles, the operator was tasked with braking sufficiently to assure the operation of the ABS. The measured stopping distance values were corrected to compare data from the speeds of 48 km/h and 128 km/h, except for the BMW F650 data, which was corrected to 48 km/h and 117 km/h, the latter figure limited by that model’s top speed of 157 km/h (i.e. 75% of 157 km/h). In the ABS-enabled mode, for each load/speed/brake combination, the stopping distances were very consistent from one run to another. In this mode, the braking force was applied in a controlled and consistent manner by the ABS mechanism. With the exception of having to react to the possibility of the rear wheel becoming airborne under high deceleration, the rider did not require significant experience or special skill in order to achieve a high level of performance. In the ABS-disabled mode, the stopping distances were less consistent because the rider while modulating the brake force, had to deal with many additional variables at the same time. Up to six runs were allowed for the rider to become familiar with the motorcycle’s behavior and to obtain the best stopping distance. Test results from non-ABS motorcycles were noticeably more sensitive to rider performance variability. The data in Table 2 include the best stopping distances obtained without ABS, compared to the average braking performance obtained with ABS. The average results were favored for presenting the performance with ABS because the best results could be more representative of threshold braking, whereby the ABS operated for only a portion of the entire test. Despite being compared to the best stopping distances without ABS, the average results with ABS provided an overall reduction in stopping distance of 5%. The stopping distance reduction was more significant when the motorcycle was loaded (averaging 7%). The greatest stopping distance reduction (averaging 17%) was observed when only the rear foot pedal was applied to stop the motorcycle from 128 km/h

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2004-2005 KTM 250/ 400/ 450/ 525 Side Panel Fuel Tank removal and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-01-2012

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1. Remove airbox cover. Drill stock rivet nut in frame tube through with a ¼” drill as shown in Photo 1. Drill completely through frame tube. We suggest you make a small guide hole in the top of the frame tube first so that you drill straight through the frame member and not come out the side of the frame tube. Photo 1 .Install Lower mounting bracket as shown in Photo 3 noting its orientation. Install the aluminum cone into the recess at the bottom of the stock airbox , then bolt the bracket on with the 6 x 70 mm bolt. Nylock nut threads to top of bolt on top of frame tube as shown in photo 2. Photo 3 2 3. Install the upper mounting bracket shown in Photo 4. Note that in either the MXC or the EXC installation four to six of the 6 x 18 mm fender washers should be installed between the bracket and the subframe. The counter-sunk hole should be positioned toward the rear wheel. Leave the bracket slightly loose until step 6. Photo 4 The best routing for the fuel line (Photo 5 & 6 ) requires drilling holes in the airbox. See Step 4 for hole locations. 4. Drill a 3/8″ hole at the front left corner of the airbox as shown in Photo 6. Make sure the location you choose will not result in the hole coming out behind the frame tube or into the rubber airbox boot. Be very careful drilling this hole.

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YAMAHA ROADSTAR/ WARRIOR ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Secure motorcycle to a bike lift and raise the motorcycle. Rear wheel should remain barely resting on the ground. 2. See diagram on page 2 for references made in parentheses, for example (#5). 3. Remove the nut from the rear suspension bolt (#5) at the bottom of the shock (#7). You may need to remove your exhaust and rear horn to access the nut and bolt. 4. Remove this suspension bolt (#5) from the non-exhaust side of the bike. You may need to raise or lower the bike to ease the tension on the bolt in order for it to come out. 5. Next remove the nut (#4) and bolt connecting the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. From here remove the entire shock assembly and relay arm from the bike. For ease of re-installing the relay arm (Step 8) and shock be sure to take precautions that in removing the assembly, you can put it back the same way you took it off. Flipping of the relay arm can cause serious damage to the lowering kit and surrounding components. 6. Remove the two suspension arms from the relay arm(#3) and shock(#7). Compare stock arm to length of lowering arm you are about to install. Make sure the length of the lowering arm matches the link of the stock arm. To set how much you want to lower the bike, lengthen the lowering arms. Every 1/4″ longer than stock is approximately 1″ of drop. Do not lower the bike more than 2″ for safety reasons. To adjust, unscrew the large hex shaft from the threaded rods. Make sure to adjust length equally on both shafts. Be sure to tighten all jam nuts once desired lowering position is set. 7. Re-assemble the lowering arms to the top of the shock (#7) using the supplied collar, nut, and bolt. The stock collar (#6), the one in the eyelet at the top of the shock (#7), will need to be removed as it is too long. (This is because the heims are thicker than the stock arms) Do not tighten the nut, or re-install into the frame yet. 8. Re-install the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. The large hex shafts go to the rear of the bike. This is where it

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HONDA XL600R REAR WHEEL/BRAKE, SUSPENSION SERVICE INFORMATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-11-2011

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The rear shock absorber contains nitrogen under high pressure. Do not allow Brake dust may contain asbestos which can be harmful! to your health. Do not use compressed air to clean brake drums or brake panels. Use a vacuum with a sealeddust collector. Wear a protective face mask and thoroughly wash your hands when finished.

Honda CBR 600 F4i 2004 – 2005 Bestem USA Fiberglass F13 Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-11-2011

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We highly recommend having a professional install this undertail. A dremel tool or nsimilar is what we found the best to cut plastics. Place bike on a rear wheel center stand. Remove passenger seat and hardware which secure stock undertail section Unplug the harness that connects tail light and remove the stock undertail. Position Bestem undertail close to the bike and determine the amount of plastic needs to be cut out. Use a dremel tool to carefully trim off plastics (glove boxes etc). This is the most time consuming part of the installation but your patience will be paid off. 5) Once the new undertail is slide in, determine holes need to be drilled (only on
certain models). Reuse the hardware for the stock undertail to secure the new undertail. 6) The wiring color codes from two round tail lights are Black Wire – Ground, connects to Ground wire. Red Wire – Brake Light, connects to brake light. Blue Wire – Running Light, connect directly to the running light. Orange Wire – Turn Signal, connect them to your L/R turn signal wires We highly suggest you solder the connections and use heat shrink wrap to seal the connections. Test your lights before going out for a ride, also make sure your new undertail is securely installed on the bike. Now it’s time to go out for a spin!

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL CHROME REAR AXLE ADJUSTER AND COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Block the motorcycle underneath the frame so the weight of the vehicle is off of the rear wheel, but do not raise the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Some models require loosening or removal of the muffler or mufflers in order to remove the rear axle. See the EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL section of the Service Manual. Remove the saddlebags if desired for extra working clearance. See SADDLEBAG REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 3. See Figure 1. Remove the original axle adjustment bolts (1) and jam nuts (2) from both sides of the motorcycle and discard. NOTE On a bike that has been previously serviced, ensure that the axle has not been removed and re-installed from the left side (with the castle nut to the right of the wheel). If it has, the axle MUST be inserted from the right side of the motorcycle. 4. Remove the retaining pin (7), castle nut (5) and washer (4) from the left side of the axle (6). Discard the washer, but save the pin and nut for later re-assembly. 5 7 1 4 6 2 3 is04101 1. Axle adjust bolt 2. Jam nut 3. Axle adjuster collar 4. Washer 5. Castle nut 6. Rear axle 7. Retaining pin Figure 1. Rear Axle Hardware (Left Side Shown) 5. Tap the axle toward the right side of the motorcycle and remove. The belt adjuster collars (3) will fall loose as the axle is removed. The collars can be discarded. The wheel bearing spacers may also fall loose or be dislodged. Be sure to return these to their original position on the vehicle (short spacer on the right side, long spacer on the left). 6. Inspect axle components for damage or excessive wear, and replace as required

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HARLEY DAVIDSON LOW REAR SHOCK KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-03-2011

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See Figure 3 and Table 1. INSTALLATION Shock Absorbers Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) Installation of any accessory suspension components can affect cornering clearance. This could distract the rider, causing loss of control and death or serious injury. (00431b) NOTES This procedure requires that both shocks be removed prior to installing the new shock absorbers. You need to place the motorcycle on a center stand with the rear wheel raised off of the ground. The jiffy stand should be able to move through its full range of travel. The exhaust system may interfere when removing and installing the lower right shock mounting hardware. If necessary, see Service Manual and remove the rear exhaust pipe. 2 4 5 7 1 6 3 is05206 1. Lower screw 2. Upper screw 3. Lower washer 4. Upper washer 5. Cover 6. Nut 7. Shock absorber Figure 1. Remove / Install Shock Absorber 1. Block the motorcycle under the frame so that the motorcycle is securely resting upright, the jiffystand may be moved through its full range of travel, and rear wheel is just off the ground. 2. Remove the lower shock mounting screw (1), washer (3) and nut (6) from the shock absorber (7). Save the hardware for reuse. 3. Remove the upper bolt (2), washer (4) and cover (5) and remove the shock absorber. Save the hardware for reuse. 4. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for opposite side and save the hardware. 5. Apply 2-3 drops of LOCTITE 243® (blue) on the threads of the lower mounting bolt, then install bolt, lower washer and nut to the shock. 6. Apply 2-3 drops of LOCTITE 243® (blue) on the threads of the upper mounting bolt, then install the shock cover, upper mounting bolt and washer to the shock. Verify the cutout in shock cover locates properly

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