Brakes, Wheel Assemblies, and Tires tips

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-02-2012

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BRAKING SYSTEMS The braking systems used on motorcycles and ATVs, like virtually any type of braking system, reduce the machine’skineticenergyby transforming it into heat energy known as friction heat . Therefore, a brake is an energy-conversion device that converts the energy of motion (kinetic energy) into heat energy. Motorcycle braking is accomplished by the friction (resistance to movement) produced when a brake lining is forced against a rotating drum or disc. Friction between the linings and drum or disc serve to slow and eventually stop wheel rotation. The brakes used on motorcycles fall into two categories: Mechanical drum, sometimes called expanding shoe Hydraulic disc Motorcycle brakes commonly use either hydraulic (fluid pressure) or mechanical (cable or linkage) mechanisms to apply the brakes. Brakes, Wheel Assemblies, and Tires 1 Mechanical Drum Brakes First, let’slookatthedrum brake, sometimes called the mechanical, expanding double-shoe brake ( Figure 1 ). Generally used for rear wheels, this brake is also used on some front wheels. With this kind of brake, a backing plate that’sconnectedtothe forks holds the two brake shoes. The wheel and brake drum rotate around the brake shoes. When the rider applies the brake, a cam pushes the two semicircular shoes outward. The circle formed by the two shoes expands. When the shoes expand, they press against the rotating drum, thereby limiting its free rotation

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Honda NSR Installation and Removal of Wheel Bearings

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 12-11-2011

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Cartridge bearings with two rows of tapered rollers are used for the non-driving rear wheels of compact and mid-size vehicles. They are usually mounted in “drum-brake hubs”, and sometimes in “disk-brake hub”.
Hub bearings, also called “single-flanged bearings”, integrate the hub function in their outer ring, to which the brake rotor and the wheel are directly attached. This solution, which facilitates assembly and increases reliability, is mainly used on the non-driving rear wheels of upper mid-size vehicles

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TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5 SUSPENSION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 31-05-2011

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FRONT OF 4RUNNER/FJ CRUISER 1. Park vehicle on level concrete surface. 2. Center and lock the steering wheel.
3. Block the rear wheels of the vehicle to prevent vehicle from moving in either direction. 4. Before lifting vehicle, remove rear shock absorbers and discard. 5. Jack up the vehicle from the lift point in Figure A. 6. Support the vehicle with jack stands from the points in Figure A. 7. Remove the front wheels. 8. Remove sway bar end links from spindle using 17mm socket (both sides). See Figure B. 9. Remove front skid plate using 12mm socket. 10. Remove sway bar from frame using 14mm socket. See Figure C. 11. Using 19mm socket, remove lower bolt and nut from the bottom of the strut (both sides). 12. Remove cotter key and 19mm nut from outer tie rod end, rack &
pinion utilizing a tie rod end puller (or pickle fork). 13. Remove the three nuts (14mm) from the top of the strut. See Figure D. 14. Remove the struts from the vehicle, making sure that they are marked driver and passenger side respectively for reinstallation.

TOYOTA CELICA ADJUSTABLE REAR CAMBER LINK KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 31-05-2011

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Securely block the front wheels of the vehicle. Use a jack to raise the rear end of the vehicle and support with jack stands. Remove the rear wheels. 2) Use a 14mm wrench and a 5mm Allen wrench to loosen and remove the nut on both end links where they meet the rear spindle assemblies. Use a 17mm wrench or socket to remove the bolt
and nut holding the rear upper link to the spindle. Retain all stock hardware. Use a 19mm and 17mm socket or wrench to remove the upper camber link bolt where it mounts to the sub-frame. Remove the stock suspension link and retain the stock hardware for later use. 4) Match the length of the Hotchkis arm to the center-to-center length of the stock arm. Use a 24mm wrench to loosen the jam nut and rotate the head. Lengthen the arm to add positive
camber and shorten the arm to add negative camber

Harley-Davidson FLH Accent Panel Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1 Install Accent Panels Note: See hardware list on Page 4 for usage and descriptions. 1.1 Elevate the rear of the vehicle and support with jack stands under the rear differential tubes. 1.2 Remove the rear wheels 1.3 Remove the passenger foot rests. 1.4 Remove front fairing (for wiring later in installation) . 1.5 Install cross brace and frame clamps to frame in the approximate position shown in Figure 1. 1.6 Note orientation of cross brace (Figure 2). Flat side of the brace against bottom of frame tubes. Outboard tabs up and to the rear of the vehicle. 1.7 Leave the bolts loose to allow the bracket’s position to be adjusted later in installation. 1.8 Install front brackets to vehicle between the frame and crash bars as shown, using the supplied hardware (the left side bracket is longer than the right. Figure 3 1.9 Leave the bolts loose to allow the bracket’s position to be adjusted later in installation. 1.10 Position the accent panel to vehicle. Figure 4 1.11 Install supplied hardware to front and cross brackets. Figure 5 &Figure 6 1.12 Leave the bolts loose to allow the accent panel’s position to be adjusted later in installation. 1.13 If not already preinstalled to your accent panel, install rubber bead edge molding between trike body (fender) and accent panel. Bead edge molding 1.14 Clamp the accent panel to the body (fender). Check position of accent panel and ensure proper positioning of bead edge molding. 1.15 Four holes will be drilled though body (fender) and accent panel in the approximate positions shown (both left and right accent panels). Figure 8 Note: Hole location dimension in Figure 8 are approximations. Your drill location may and can vary. Note: Hole position should be as high an possible on the accent panel, allowing space to install hardware 1.16 With accent panel and bead edge molding properly positioned and clamped to body (fender), Drill the two outboard holes in the approximate position shown from inside the fender well through mounting surface of accent panel. Note: Drill outboard hole first and install hardware to reduce risk of accidental movement. Figure 9 1.17 Drill remaining two inboard holes from the accent panel mounting surface through the body (fender). Figure 10 1.18 With both left and right accent panels installed, tighten all hardware at the left and right front mounting positions. 1.19 Trim off excess bead edge molding. 1.20 With left and right front mounting secure, check position and alignment of cross bar and accent panel mid mounts and tighten all hardware. 1.21 With fairing removed, crimp supplied xxx to the black, purple and blues wires of the vehicle’s turn signal wire loom. 1.22 Crimp one of the supplied male spade connectors to the end each wire from the accent panel. 1.23 Connect wiring as indicated in Table 1 below. Accent Panel Wire Color Vehicle Turn Signal Loom Wire Color Yellow Purple (Signal) Orange Blue (Running) Black Black (Ground) Table 1

Victory vision ENGINE SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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Type: Air/oil-cooled SOHC 4-valve-per- cylinder 50° V-twin 4-stroke Displacement: 1731cc Compression ratio: 9.4:1 Bore x stroke: 101 x 102mm Starting system: Electric Engine management: Electronic ignition Fuel system: Electronic fuel injection with 45mm throttle bodies Clutch: Wet multiplate Transmission: 6-speed Final drive: Belt FRAME Type: Tubular steel Swingarm: Aluminium Front suspension: Conventional 43mm dia. telescopic fork Rear suspension: Linkage-type w/single gas-charged shock absorber, air adjustable Brakes: Linked system comprising twin 300mm rotor floating discs with 3-piston calipers up front & single 300mm floating rotor with 2-piston caliper rear Wheels: Cast aluminium 18 x 3.0 in. front & 16 x 5.0 in. rear Tyres: Dunlop Elite 130/70R18 front & 180/60R16 rear DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 1670mm Rake/Trail: 29°/137mm Seat height: 673mm Dry weight: 365kg Fuel tank capacity: 22.7The engine is reasonably quiet and remarkably smooth in cruise mode. It has the lovely pulse that a massive V-twin develops when you gas it up, but on cruise it takes a conscious effort to find even the slightest tick from the donk. I was incredulous at times. The range on a tankful varied with how sportily I pushed the bike along, but it was about ‘big tourer’ standard. It rides harder than you might expect; it’s an enjoyable bike to toss around too. Stopping is taken care of by a set of three 300mm discs, twin floating rotors with three-piston calipers up front and one two-piston unit aft. They are linked, provided good feel and were confidence

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Kawasaki Mule 610 Without coil springs Installation

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1.)Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both front tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable lifting device or procedure, until the front tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack with stands, chock the rear wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure the unit is stable and secure . 2.)Remove the tires / wheels. NOTE: Now is a good time to check the threads on the lug studs. Check for rust, pulled threads or other deterioration that could cause a stud/thread failure. 3.) The first thing to do is remove the front cowl and trunk on the bike. You can accomplish this by removing all the bolts (screws) around the perimeter of the cowl and removing some plastic “snap rivets”. To remove the rivets simply pull the center section up and then the rest will follow. 4.)Place a floor jack, or other suitable device, beneath the left side lower control arm. This is to prevent damage to the tie rod or slip yoke boot while disassembling the lower control arm and strut. Using a 14mm socket, remove the two retaining nuts and lock washers on the top of the struts. 5.)Leaning the strut forward toward the headlamp buckets will put the strut in position to allow you to reach over the top and place the strut spacer in place. Install the strut spacer on top of the coil retainer and tightening the nuts. Install the supplied gasket on top of the strut spacer, and re-install the strut assembly

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