BMW R1100GS, R1150GS and R1150GS Adventure Side Cases Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. Mounting blocks Note: On the low mount (for rear cross bar), attach the mounting block vertically with the opening (slot) pointing up and slightly rearward. See photo below. On the two upper mounts, attach the mounting block horizontally with the opening (slot) pointing towards the front. See photo below. Using the M5 x 16 button head screws, with M-5 split washers, attach the backing plate to the mounting block. With the backing plate inside the case and the case mounting blocks outside the case, assemble loosely, using a 3 mm Allen key. These screws will all need to be tightened after final fit up. See photo below. After each block is mounted, insert the black securing knob through the locking tab and into the center hole of the case mounting blocks, from inside the case. Use anti seize on the thread of the thumbscrews to prevent corrosion. See photo below. During riding, these screws will secure the cases to your bike. The locking tabs must be backed off (counter-clockwise), allowing the screws to firmly engage the bullet notches on the bike; then the locking tabs will be rotated clockwise to lock the screws in place and prevent them from loosening. 2. Foot peg stainless Steel “U” Brackets Mount the foot peg bracket to the front of each case with the flat side up, angle side down, using the M-5 Nylock nuts and rubber backed washers, from the inside. Put the rubber side of the washer next to the case. See photo below and photo on page 2 for the correct orientation. These nuts will be tightened, using an 8 mm wrench, after final fit up.

How to change a fuel filter on 1998 Ducati ST2

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. On a cool bike, parked on center-stand, remove the two button-head bolts securing the key cover on the top of the fuel tank. Set cover aside, and save bolts, they will be used later. 2. Remove the seat 3. Un-hook front clip holding the tank down. 4. Lift tank upward, rotating on rear pin, and place prop-rod in place to secure tank in upright position. (If possible, you may want to find a longer prop to put the tank at a higher angle. This allows the fuel pump to be a bit more accessible. I used a long piece of rod iron, and propped the tank up by its rubber side bumpers.) 5. Pad the area directly under the fuel pump very well with paper shop towels or other very absorbent materials, as gas will likely drip. 6. Disconnect the electrical connector going to the fuel pump.
7. There are two fuel lines going to the fuel pump. One is marked with a white collar that has the letter R on it, the other has a M . Take note of which is which. The R line goes in the middle stem, and the M connects to the stem that is closest to the outside edge of the tank. It is a good idea to take a permanent marker, and write a ” R ” and ” M ” near these connections on the bottom of the fuel filter so as to not forget. 8. One at a time, loosen the hose clamps on the lines, and remove them from their stems. Some fuel will spill. It will stop however; have plenty of paper-towels close on hand. (The hose clamps should be 7mm) Also remove the small gas overflow tube that is attached to the fuel pump. 9. Remove the rear latch that the tank rotates on, and lift the tank off of the bike. 10. Lean the tank forward so as to move the gas forward, and remove the drain plug at the very rear of the tank with a 5mm Hex Key