WORKS PERFORMANCE STREET TRACKER SHOCKS FOR BIG DOG MOTORCYCLES

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 17-12-2010

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SHOCK REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION– The shocks are fitted with special length spacers to maintain correct alignment between the frame and the swingarm. If the shocks are removed for service or repair, they must be installed in the correct position. Refer to the diagram on the next page for spacer positioning and layout. NOTE: Misalignment between the mounts on the frame and the mounts on the swingarm can cause binding between the shock shaft and shaft bushing. Misalignment of more than 1/4 inch can cause the shocks to bind up and not function properly. If this binding occurs, the shocks will feel overly stiff and harsh. Follow the procedures below to check for misalignment when installing the shocks. NOTE: The shock bushings are designed to have a certain side-to-side “float” to keep them from binding. As a result, do not grind or file the inner or outer edges of the bushings to make them narrower. The amount of “float” in the bushing set is necessary to ensure smooth operation of the damper assembly. If the shock eyes are tightened metal-to-metal (the outer faces of the eyes to the flanges or washers), this will lead to a harsh, stiff or choppy ride and premature seal leakage or damage to the shafts. MULTI-RATE SPRINGS Depending on each application, single or dual-rate springs are available. Dual-rate springs are just that– a spring set with two separate rates. This is done with a short spring stacked on a longer spring. As both springs compress they produce a soft, or initial, rate. The spring set will maintain this initial rate until the short spring stops compressing. At that point, the spring rate “crosses over” to the stiffer, or final, rate. This multi-rate system allows a soft initial rate for comfort on small bumps, but has the capability of soaking up the big pot-holes and other road hazards. PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On Works shocks, threaded preload is standard. (See Fig. 2.) This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. It is used primarily to set the ride height for solo riding, but can also be used when

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POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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KTM Starter Gear Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Checking the electric starter motor for wear -Check Bendix 1 for smooth operation and signs of wear. -Check the sprocket of the electric starter for wear and radial clearance. -Replace O-ring 2 of the electric starter. -Replace gasket 3 . -Check starter idler gear 4 for smooth operation and wear, check that the bearing bushings are seated firmly. Electric starter motor – checking for and adjusting play -Mount the electric starter and the starter idler gear. -Mount the tighten cover 5 . -Move starter idler gear 4 back and forth in the direction of rotation, the maximum play may not exceed half the width of a tooth. -If play is larger, cover 5 must be removed and as many shims 6 with a thickness of 0.10 mm as necessary must be added to eliminate all play. Then remove one shim again. -Check the play again; the maximum play may not exceed more than half of the width of a tooth. 1 2 3 4 5 4 5 6

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Baja SC50 SCOOTER OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Bajaj) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Engine oil level a) Check for leaks b) Tighten filler cap securely. c) Add oil if required. 2. Fuel level a) Add fuel as necessary. b) Do not overfill (no fuel in the filler neck). c) Do not mix oil with gas. d) Replace cap tightly. e) Do not refuel a hot engine. Allow engine to cool before adding fuel. 3. Warning decals a) Make sure all warning decals are legible and securely attached. b) Replace as necessary. 4. Tires a) Ensure that both tires have at least 1/8 in. tread depth at center. b) Both tires must be inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. c) Replace the tires id tread height is less then 1/8 in. at the center of tires. 5. Drive chain a) Check condition and tension. b) Lubricate and adjust tension as necessary. 6. Throttle a) Check for smooth operation. Make sure the throttle “snaps” back to idle. b) Check for frayed cable or damaged cable housing. Replace damaged cable. c) Check for mud, debris and ice in the throttle cable/mechanism. Clean out any contamination.

Baja BA 250 ATV OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Bajaj) by admin on 26-11-2010

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FUEL AND OIL FUEL Proper fuel is very important for the engine. Ensure there is no dust, dirt, or water which has mixed in the fuel. Use regular unleaded gasoline with an octane number 90 or higher. ENGINE OIL Your 250cc ATV has a four-stroke engine. Please use oil as described in the chart below. By using prescribe oil, you will realize the best lubrication for engine. Use the chart to select a viscosity rating based on the temperature range in your area. NOTE: In very cold weather (below 5°F (-15°C), use SAE10W-30 for good starting and smooth operation. SAE 10W-30 SAE 20W-40 ENGINE TEMP. °C °F -30 -22 40 104 -10 14 0 32 10 50 20 68 30 86 -20 4 FUEL AND OIL 8 LOCATION OF LABELS Read and follow all of the warnings labels on your ATV. Make sure you understand all the labels. Keep the labels on the ATV. Do not remove them for any reason. If a label comes off or becomes difficult to read, you should get a replacement by contacting BAJA INC. 1 – Red Light – Reverse indicator Light illuminates when ATV is in Reverse. 2 – Green Light – Neutral indicator Light illuminates when ATV is in Neutral. 3 – Ignition key switch – Turn right (CW) “RUN”, Turn left (CCW) “OFF”. ATV will only start when ignition key is turned to the “RUN” position. Make sure ignition key switch is in the “OFF” position when not in use

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Baja DR70 Dirt Bike OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Bajaj) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Before Starting the Engine/Motor 1. Engine oil level a) Check for leaks b) Tighten filler cap securely. c) Add oil if required. 2. Fuel level a) Add fuel as necessary. b) Do not overfill (no fuel in the filler neck). c) Do not mix oil with gas. d) Replace cap tightly. e) Do not refuel a hot engine. Allow engine to cool before adding fuel. 3. Warning decals a) Make sure all warning decals are legible and securely attached. b) Replace as necessary. 4. Tires a) Ensure that both tires are in safe riding condition. b) Both tires must be inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. 5. Drive chain a) Check condition and tension. b) Lubricate and adjust tension as necessary. 6. Throttle a) Check for smooth operation. Make sure the throttle “snaps” back to idle. b) Check for frayed cable or damaged cable housing. Replace damaged cable. c) Check for mud, debris and ice in the throttle cable/mechanism. Clean out any contamination. 5 SAFETY GEAR A DOT approved motorcycle helmet is the most important part of you safety gear. A DOT approved motorcycle helmet can help prevent a serious head injury. Choose a helmet that fits snugly. Motorcycle dealers can help in selecting a good quality helmet which fits properly.

BMW K-SERIES (INCLUDING PARALEVER) SHOCK MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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1. The shock mounts with the hose towards the rear of the machine, with the shock body at the top and the shaft pointing downward. 2. Take the inside half of the bushing set on the shock eye (at the shaft end) and place it on the mounting post on the drive hub. 3. Insert the body eye into the mounting channel on the frame. In some cases the channel may have to be spread slightly to fit the bushing set. NOTE; Do not try to install the shock with only half of the bushings, as this will lead to poor performance and premature seal leakage. For the same reasons, do not grind or file the inner or outer edges of the bushings to make them narrower. The amount of “float” in the bushing set is necessary to ensure smooth operation of the damper assembly. 4. Slide the shaft end of the shock over the mounting post. If it does not easily align with the bushing in place, the eye (and shaft and spring, etc.) can be rotated to fit. 5. Install the outer shock eye bushing and follow with the washer and nut. Install the upper shock mounting bolt and nut finger tight. 6. Position the reservoir under the frame rail below the seat. It will fit neatly between– and inside– of the stock luggage rack mounts. Let the reservoir dangle and put the hose clamps loosely in position over the frame tube. NOTE: The reservoir should be mounted so that the hose has a slight curve in it. This will allow a certain amount of movement at the shock body without putting pressure on the hose fittings at the shock. 6. Position the reservoir inside the hose clamps with the rubber stand-off pads between the reservoir and the frame. The hose clamps should be fitted on either side of the Allen bolt that attaches the tail section to the frame. They can placed at any point along the O.D. of the reservoir, but about 1/2″ from each end is typical. The stand-off pads should be at the same location on the reservoir as the clamps. Tighten the clamps snugly. Do not over-tighten the clamps, as this can cause them to break during temperature extremes. 7. Sparingly apply a thread locking compound to the threads on the shock mounting fasteners and tighten them to 28 to 32 lbs/ft. Over-tightening the fasteners can damage the bushings and cause

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