Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-04-2012
1. 1994-99 models: Remove upper shock absorber nut, washer, shock cover and backing washer. Save nut and washer and discard shock cover and backing washer. 2000-03 models: Remove upper shock bolt, washer and shock cover and save washer. NOTE: Do not remove stock inboard washer that is positioned behind shock cover and against shock absorber. 2. All models: Remove OEM buttonhead screw and flanged nut directly to the rear of the upper shock mount on fender support. Note T-spacer in fender support. Save nut and discard bolt. 3. 1994-99 models: Position saddlebag support (item 1) with front bracket over shock stud and rear mount over hole in fender support. Install ½ * bushing (Item 2) over shock stud and into hole of support front mount. Install saved OEM nut and washer (items 3,4) and tighten securely. 2000-03 models: Apply Locktite to the OEM shock screw (Item 5) and install through the saved washer (Item 6), front bracket of the saddlebag support (Item 1), shock and into the frame. Tighten to 21-35 ft. -lbs torque. NOTE: If installing supports with sissy bar side plates, omit 5/16 * lock washer (Item 8). H-D sissy bar side plate mounts between fender support and fender. Khrome Werks® sissy bar plate mounts outboard of fender support. CAUTION: Be careful to not dislodge T-spacer from its position in fender while inserting screw through fender support and fender. 4. Insert supplied socket head cap screw (Item 7) and lock washer (Item 8) (if applicable) through the rear saddlebag support mount, sissy bar side plate (if applicable) , fender with T-spacer and frame. Apply Loctite to the saved flanged nut and secure. Tighten to 8-13 ft-lbs torque.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012
1. Remove the Right Handlebar Control, upper and lower switch housing screws, and Right Grip from the Handlebar according to the service-manual instructions and set aside or leave hanging. Remember to insert a spacer between the rear brake light switch and the lever to keep the switch from being broken. 2. Remove the Left Hand switch housing from the handlebar according to the service-manual instructions. 3. Using a T27 TORX drive head remove the half of the clamp that secures the clutch hand lever to the handlebar and discard. The Heat Demon controller will replace this clamp when finishing the installation. Separate the clutch hand lever assembly from the handlebar and move away from the bar. 4. Mark the location of the Left Grip and remove it by twisting, heating or with air pressure. Almost all grips can be removed without damage. If this does not work it may be necessary to cut the grip for removal. 5. A hole needs to be drilled in the bottom of the handlebar to route the power wires and wires from the Controller. The location of the hole should be in the groove or recess on the bottom of the handlebar under the Left Switch Housing at the end of the groove toward the grip. Start by punching a hole location with a center punch to pierce the chrome. Use safety glasses that completely cover the eyes to protect from steel chips while drilling! Start with a small drill like a 3/32″ size to make the initial hole. Then use progressively larger drills or a step drill to increase the hole size to 5/16″. After the hole is drilled use a round file or deburring tool to remove the sharp edges. 6. Uncoil the plastic snake from the kit and run it from the right end of the handlebar out the left end. Twisting the snake or inserting it vertically versus flat can help to push around the corners. 7. Attach the white and yellow wires from the Right Grip Heater (Item 3) to the hole in the plastic snake and pull them through the bar so they exit the left end. (See drawing below) 8. Push the right heater into the handlebar by squeezing it together and sliding it fully inside of the bar. The end of the heater with the orange cap should be pushed in first. Cut the white and yellow wire to extend 4 inches beyond the left end of handlebar. 9. Install the Right Throttle Control and Grip according to the service manua
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012
Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter
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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2012
unplug factory radio harness. 2. Plug in Bazooka fast harness into radio and plug factory harness into Bazooka fast harness. ( Fig. 2-1 ) 3. Run red power wire to battery leaving fuse block with the factory fuses. Make sure fuse is removed during install Attach ground wire to triple tree ground terminal. Left side cover. ( Fig. 2-1) 4. Replace factory speakers. All speakers are shipped with grills and in some cases rubber magnet covers. These are for shipping protection only. If rubber magnet covers are on the speakers, they MUST be removed prior to installation. Discard the grills and use the OEM grills to complete the installation. 5. The front and rear speakers are the same. The front speakers must be slid into the speakers mounts with the crossover network placed toward the outside of the fairing and the speaker terminals to the inside for ease of installation. When mounting the rear speakers you must use the spacers provided. Place spacer on the speaker enclosure. Then the speaker and the grill last. The rear speakers should be mounted with the crossover network toward the rear of the bike.
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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 18-02-2012
Position the motorcycle securely on its stand or a work stand. Cover the front fender and fuel tank with a cloth to avoid scratches from dropped tools. 1. Use the above diagram toidentify left from right Lower and Upper Mount Brackets. Figure 1 2. Cut each of the clamp spacers in half to make 8 pieces, each 2.5 x 1.55″. 3. Apply one spacer to the inside of each mount bracket. Figure 2 Figure 1 Figure 2 N28201 and N28202 WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION AND OWNER’S MANUAL for Suzuki®M109 Right and Left side of Motorcycle is determined while sitting on the bike. Determine left from right Upper bracket. Washer angles inboard about 5 degrees. Note, Angle distinguishes Right from Left Lower Mount Bracket 1 2 4 3 5 6 8 9 10 National Cycle, Inc. Maywood, IL 60153-0158 USA 708-343-0400 / Fax: 708-343-0625 www.nationalcycle.com / e mail:firstname.lastname@example.org Page 1 of 3 10-114056-000 08/07 / Rev B. 03/08 7 3, Left Upper Bracket 4, Right Upper Bracket About 5 0 inboard angle
INSTALLATION Measurements provided for clamp location. From this point you can adjust the brackets 1″ (22mm) higher if you prefer keeping in mind, position of the front nose of windshield should have a minimum of 1/2″ (13mm) clearance from cowling . Figure 3. Right Side Lower Mount Assembly 1. Start on the Right Side of motorcycle. At the top of the fork, place one inner black clamp on the fork tube. Figure 4 2. Hook the RIGHT SIDE lower mount bracket (2) to the inside clamp. Figure 5 3. Slide assembly down fork so bottom edge of bracket is 1.75″ (44mm) from top of lower triple clamp. Adjust bracket so flat in bracket runs parallel with motorcycle. Figure 6 and 7 4. Loosely install one M8 x 16 screw. (6mm Hex Key) Figure 7 Right Side Upper Mount Assembly 5. Place the second inside black clamp on the right fork tube.
Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012
1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-01-2012
Begin by removing the front fascia and front skid plate on the vehicle as shown in figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to re-install the front fascia and skid plate. 2. Remove the 8mm bolts on both sides located inside the front tires and on the ends of two horizontal tubes on the front tube frame as shown in figure 2. 3. Place the mounting plate (A1) inside the front tube frame. The tabs with the slotted holes facing down. The slotted tabs should align where the
two 8mm bolts were removed in step 2. Reinstall these two bolts at this time thighten to just fingertight. Install the two 1/4-20 u-bolts (B3) and locking hex nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7) at thism time see figure 3, do not tighten down at this time. so the plate can be adjusted for position see figure 2. 4. Place the rear support bracket (A4) into position
and attach with the two 5/16-18 x 3/4 hex cap screws (B6), flat washer (B5) and locking nut (B4). Adjust the position of the support bracket so that it comes in contact with the frame tubes and tighten the fasteners see figures 3 and 4.
Make sure the support bracket maintains contact with the rear frame tubes and tighten down the two front 8mm mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to a recommended torque of 12 ft-lb (17 N-m). 5. Attach the fairlead bracket support (A2) to the front frame tubes see figure 5. The support bracket attaches behind the front tubes. Space the bracket away from the tubes using the spacer brackets (A3). Attach the brackets using the 1/4- 20 u-bolts (B2), lock nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7). Before tightening the u-bolts make sure the bracket is in the correct position by fitting the front
fasica into postion and checking location. Tighten the nuts to a recommended torque of 7 ft-lb (10 N-m). NOTE: If this kit is being installed on a 00 to 03 Honda the wider fairlead bracket (A2) will need to be used. This will require the use of the
wider u-bolts (B3). The spacer brkts (A3) will not be required when installing the wider fairlead brkt
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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012
Install all bolts loosely until all brackets are in place Remove accessories (saddle bags, back rests, etc) before hitch installation. 1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface and secure in a upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags and saddle bag hardware (Tourer model only) Also remove rear riders pegs (Tourer model requires removal of rear footpeg offset hardware as well) 3) Attach bracket A (right) / B (left) to rear footpeg attachment point using new bolts provided. Remount footpegs/saddlebag hardware over top of brackets A/B. NOTE: Do not attach leveling stand bracket at this time
4) Attach bracket C(right) / D(left) to rear fender sub frame using new bolts provided. (Tourer model only – Saddle bag hardware mounts to the outside of brackets C/D. Brackets C/D mount between chrome side rail and saddlebag hardware.) NOTE: Brackets C/D have welded spacers which attach in toward rear fender 5) Attach top of Bracket E(right) / F(left) to rear of brackets C/D. Brackets E/F mount to the inside of brackets C/D. NOTE: Use ½ inch spacer between brackets E/F and C/D on Tourer model ONLY
6) Attach rear of brackets A/B to TOP of forward hitch arms. Attach bottom to brackets E/F to rear hitch plate. 7) Carefully tighten all bolts at this time ensuring hitch is square with motorcycle.
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2011
To install this needle and jet kit: • Remove carburetors from the engine per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Note: Always perform internal carburetor work in a clean area. • Remove the vacuum slide from each carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. (Note; the washers are used as shims to raise the needle, each is equivalent to ½ clip position, use these to fine tune the needle) • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needles. The top is the blunt end of the needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in the figure below. • Reinstall the vacuum slides along with the diaphragm spring and reattach the diaphragm covers Note: Verify that the slides maintain their full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from the float bowls and remove the bowl covers. • Remove the OEM main jets and replace them with Baron’s supplied Mikuni main jets. Install the “base setting” main jets as indicated above. NOTE: V-Star 1100 carburetion runs staggered jetting! Make sure the front cylinder’s carburetor gets the larger main jet (numerically), and the rear cylinder’s carburetor gets the smaller main jet . Important! Extra jets have been included in your kit. These will help you fine-tune the carburetors for changing conditions. These conditions include climate and weather patterns in your area as well as exhaust equipment on your motorcycle. Barons determines the jet and clip recommendations that best suit your average riding conditions based upon information supplied to us at the time of your order. Changes in weather, altitude or modifications to your exhaust system may require jets other than those supplied. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowls prior to reinstalling them. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: email@example.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (4)Mikuni main jets #107.5, 110, 112.5, 115, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap-head allen screws Tools required: 3-4-5 mm allen wrenches, 10&12 mm sockets, 10mm end wrench, phillips & flat screwdrivers, pliers, drill. Revision 4.0 • Reassemble the carburetors by reversing the order of above steps. Use the new supplied cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws for the float bowls. • Locate the fuel mixture screws – they will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plugs
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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011
Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.
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