240 tire V-Rod kit for stock swingarm Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Recommended Parts and Supplies 1. Sawzall or comparable cutting tool. 2. Cut-off tool or jigsaw. 3. Shop or repair manual 4. Shop supplies, (loctite-red and blue, anti-seize, etc.) 5. Assorted hand tools. 6. 4-1/2″ grinder. 7. Drive pulley seal HD part # 11354K (qty.1) 8. Copper cap locking plate HD part # 35451-01K (qty.1) (The seal and locking plate can be re-used if not damaged during removal) Stock component removal To install the 240 kit, it will be necessary to raise the motorcycle off the ground on a suitable lift. WARNING – Be sure to center the motorcycle on the lift so that it does not fall over when you raise it up or when you are working on it. Installation of the 240 kit begins with the disassembly and removal of the rear end of the bike. Start with the simplest and most obvious components. For detailed information on removal of these parts, consult your factory manual. 1. Remove rear wheel assembly and brake. 2. Remove swingarm. 3. Cut brake tab on swingarm (as pictured). 4 4. Clean up casting mark on inside of swingarm in pulley area (as pictured). 5 5. Remove and replace right side swingarm mount with mount included in kit. 6. Install swingarm with new supplied pivot shaft. 7. Install stock spacer on left side of shaft, use supplied stepped spacer between stock spacer and swingarm. (Small step toward bearing). 8. Remove front pulley, and disassemble. 9. Test fit ½” allen bolts in hub before removal. Some models require drilling for bolts to fit. If necessary, use ½” bit and drill before removing, minimal material will be removed. Take caution not to drill too deep and hit case. 6 10. Install supplied adapter on the back to space pulley out. (Use loctite on bolts, and assemble as pictured).

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Honda VTX1800F, VTX1300C, VTX1800C Plated Saddle Bag Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-11-2010

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Instruction Manual > Your saddlebag supports will install in just a few minutes using common tools. Read all instructions carefully and completely before installing your new saddlebag supports. 1. Remove your stock fender rail bolts. 2. Place the supplied spacers in the recessed holes on the fender rails (large spacer to the front, small spacer to the rear). 3. Install your Cobra saddlebag supports using the supplied button head bolts (where the stock bolts were removed) the saddlebag supports should hang towards the rear and away from the motorcycle. 4. Torque bolts to factory specifications. Note: If using Cobra sissy bar mount the saddlebag supports over the sissy bar brackets and do not use supplied spacers. Cobra recommends you always wear a helmet while riding. Please never operate your motorcycle while under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs. Enjoy the new look of your motorcycle and please ride safely

ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL- WIDTH REAR WHEEL HUBS

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The numbers shown thus: (2), refer to the num­ bered parts in the illustration. (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gearbox in position. (c) Remove the wheel from the frame. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Slacken the circlip lock-nut (13). (f) Unscrew and remove the adjusting sleeve (14). With it will come: the sleeve (2) upon which the speedometer-drive No. 504 gearbox is mounted; the lock-nut (13) and the hub cover disc. (g) From the brake side of the wheel remove the spindle nut (19) and washer (18), the spacer for the fork end (17), and the outer spacer (20) (h) Withdraw the brake cover plate com­ plete with the brake shoes from the brake drum. (i) Remove the inner spacer (12). (j) If it is desired to remove the brake drum, take off the nuts (23) and washers (24). and pull the drum away from the hub. It is located on a spigot in the hub. The bolts (25) will remain in the hub and can be pushed out. (k) Press out the spindle (1). It can be withdrawn from either side and pushed out with a press and a suitable brass or copper rod of slightly less diameter than the spindle, or driven out with a ham­ mer and a copper or brass drift. (1) Remove the oil-seal retaining washer (3). the oil seal (4), the oil-seal cup (5), and oil-seal distance piece (6). These can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw-driver

2002 Triumph Speed Triple 955i Standard Mount Slip-On Exhaust System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on the side- stand or ideally a rear service stand. 2. Loosen the clamp that holds the muffler connector pipe to the headers. 3. Remove the hardware that holds the stock muffler at the passenger footpeg bracket. Take off the muffler. 4. Place a bead of the hi-temp sealant on the outside edge of the header that goes into the s-bend. Wipe off the excess sealant that will squeeze out. Slide the S-bend connector pipe onto the end of the headers (wipe off the excess sealant that will squeeze out). Re-use the stock clamp to attach the s-bend to the headers. Leave loose for now. 5. Place a bead of the hi-temp sealant on the outside edge of the s-bend that goes into the canister. Slide the TBR canister onto the end of the S-bend pipe. Wipe off the excess sealant that will squeeze out. 6. Carefully slide the muffler clamp over the muffler. ( Note: The stainless steel canister clamp and the name badge on the canister come from the factory with a clear plastic protective film. Please remove this film before operation.) You may need to twist and turn the S-bend a little to get it in the right place. Locate both tabs of the canister clamp and the 50mm spacer on the inside of the passenger footpeg bracket. Use the 85mm bolt and stock nut & washer to secure it. Leave loose for now. 7. Make sure everything is aligned and tighten all hardware. Affix the connector springs to the muffler. 8. Before you run the bike, clean off all fingerprints and dirt, as any oily residue will etch the metal and become somewhat permanent when the system gets hot. Run the bike and enjoy. It is normal for some white smoke to appear the first time you start the bike. This is packing/manufacturing oil from inside the pipe burning off. Check for gaps or leaks. If you find a leak, a little high temperature silicon sealant should fix it. After 50 to 100 miles, recheck all fasteners for tightness.

2004-2005 Kawasaki KX250F Kickstand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the lower chain roller nut, leave the factory washer installed. Install the included threaded chain roller spacer on the chain roller stud, and tighten. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!) 2. Remove the sub-frame to main-frame mounting bolt. Install the provided subframe bolt spacer into the subframe bolt hole. 3. Install kickstand on the bike using the provided M8X 30mm flat head bolt, in the upper mounting hole. Install the supplied M6X 16mm socket head bolt, in the bottom mounting location. 4. Make sure that you tighten all bolts to the correct torque. 5. Periodically check the kickstand pivot bolt for tightness. Maintenance: Clean and lubricate the kickstand pivot area after each ride. We recommend using a penetrating lube, such as WD-40. If necessary, you can remove the back cover plate for additional cleaning.

Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines, Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-10-2010

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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