1988-1989 ENGINES Toyota 1.6L 16- Valve 4 – Cylinder REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 25-09-2011

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Removal 1) Mark and remove hood. Remove battery. Remove engine under cover (splash) shields. Drain coolant, engine oil and transaxle fluid. Mark and disconnect vacuum hoses and electrical connectors. 2) Remove air cleaner assembly. Disconnect coolant hoses. Mark and disconnect throttle, cruise, and kickdown cables (ifequipped). Mark and disconnect fuel inlet and return hoses. 3) Remove fuel tank protectors. Remove airflow meter assembly. Remove transaxle protector (if equipped). Remove accessory drive belts. Remove alternator. 4) Disconnect oil cooler hoses (if equipped). Disconnect power steering pump and A/C compressor and set aside (if equipped). Disconnect speedometer cable from transaxle. Remove clutch slave cylinder (if equipped). Mark and remove shift control cable(s). 5) Remove cruise control actuator assembly (if equipped). Raise vehicle and disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.

Yamaha TW200N/ TW200NC SPECIFICATIONS AND SUPPLEMENTARY SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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GENERAL INFORMATION MOTORCYCLE IDENTIFICATION EAS00017 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER The vehicle identification number 1 is stamped into the right side of the steering head pipe. EAS00018 MODEL CODE The model code label 1 is affixed to the frame. This information will be needed to order spare parts CABLE ROUTING 1 Throttle cable 2 Front brake light switch lead 3 Right handlebar switch lead 4 Clutch cable 5 Left handlebar switch lead 6 Clutch switch lead 7 Front turn signal/position light lead (left) 8 Main switch lead 9 Indicator lights lead 0  Speedometer cable A Meter light lead B Headlight coupler C Wire harness D Front turn signal/position light lead (right) E Brake hose ب Fasten the brake hose with a plastic locking tie to the brake hose grommet. ة Fasten the wire harness with a plastic locking tie PERIODIC CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS INTRODUCTION This chapter includes all information necessary to perform recommended checks and abjustments.If followed, these preventive maintenance procedures will ensure more reliable vehicle operation, a longer service life and reduce the need for costly overhaul work.This information applies to vehicles already in service as well as to new vehicles that are being prepared for sale.All service technicians should be familiar with this entire chapter. PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART FOR EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM

HARLEY DAVIDSON STREET STALKER FRONT FENDER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. If model has mechanical speedometer drive, remove cable from fender bracket. Disconnect speedometer cable from the speedometer head. 2. Remove front wheel according to the Service Manual. 3. Disconnect and remove fender tip light power wire. 4. Remove hardware that holds fender in place and remove fender. INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1 and Table 1. For each support bracket (4), remove backing from one side of tape (3), and affix tape to support bracket, carefully matching the contours of the bracket and tape for proper fit. 2. Remove backing from tape and place support brackets into position on the inside of fender (one on each side), aligning the mounting holes in each bracket with the holes in the fender. The tape side will affix to the inside of the fender. 3. Carefully place fender in position and secure fender with screws and flanged locknuts in kit. Tighten hardware to 12 ft-lbs (16.27 Nm). 4. Install front wheel according to the Service Manual. 5. Install mechanical speedometer cable. Use tie wrap (10081) to secure

HONDA GL 1500 FRONT FENDER EXTENSION INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-02-2011

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1. Remove items as shown using straight blade screwdriver. Pry off the two fork cover caps and with a 5mm allen wrench, unfasten the two bolts (Figure 1A). Remove fork cover. a. Pull outward and forward to remove left hand side covers. (Figure 1B) b. Using 8mm and 10mm wrenches, remove the three bolts from the left hand disc cover. Repeat for right side disc cover. (Note for re-installation; the top 10mm bolts (Figure 1C) do not have collars included.) c. Using the Phillips screwdriver, unfasten speedometer cable (figure 1D) d. Using the 8mm wrench, remove the left hand side fender bolts (figure 1E) e. Using the 8mm allen wrench, remove the four top bolts (figure 1F) from the fork stay bracket, and remove bracket. 2. With the rear fender off the motorcycle, hold front fender extension in place and using center punch and hammer, light tap the three drilling locations (figure A). Set the fender extension aside and drill three ¼ inch holes at marked locations (figure B). 3. Attach fender extension to fender with hardware provided (figure 3). 4. Re-install all items previously removed in step 1.

SCOOTERS FRONT WHEEL/ FRONT BRAKE/ FRONT SUSPENSION INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL Jack the motorcycle front wheel off the ground. Remove the speedometer cable set screw and disconnect the speedometer cable. Remove the front brake cable. Remove the front axle nut and pull out the axle. Remove the front wheel. Remove the front brake panel. INSPECTION AXLE RUNOUT Set the axle in V blocks and measure the runout using a dial gauge. The actual runout is 1/2 of the total indicator reading. Service Limit : 0.2mm replace if over WHEEL RIM Check the wheel rim runout. Service Limits : Radial : 2.0mm replace if over Axial : 2.0mm replace if over Screw Speedometer Cable Front Brake Cable Axle Nut Axle Shaft 12 . FRONT WHEEL/FRONT BRAKE/ FRONT SUSPENSION 12-4 FRONT WHEEL BEARING Remove the side collar and dust seal. Turn the inner race of each bearing with your finger to see if they turn smoothly and quietly. Also check if the outer race fits tightly in the hub. Replace the bearings if the races do not turn smoothly, quietly, or if they fit loosely in the hub. BEARING REPLACEMENT Remove the front wheel bearings and distance collar. Bearing Remover Bearing Remover Head, 12mm Pack all bearing cavities with grease. Drive in the left bearing. Install the distance collar. Drive in the right bearing. Outer driver, 32x35mm Driver handle A Pilot, 12mm

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HONDA VT-600 Front Wheel Adapter kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, loosen the 2 front axle pinch bolts on the right side of the lower fork leg. Loosen bolts 4 or 5 turns. 2. Using a 17mm Allen wrench, slightly loosen the front axle from the right side of the bike. Having the front wheel on the ground will help you in loosening the axle. Do not remove the axle at this time! 3. Loosen and remove the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer on your handlebars. Pull the speedometer cable all the way out of the front fork. Remove the cable from the speedometer drive on your front wheel (note the position of the connection as it will be similar on your new drive installation). This speedometer cable or speedometer drive will not be needed on your new wheel installation. 4. Block the back wheel to prevent the bike from rolling backwards, and raise the motorcycle’s front wheel off of the ground, so the wheel spins freely. You can do this with a motorcycle lift placed under the front portion of the motorcycle frame. Contact Scootworks to purchase a lift if you don’t have access to one. Ensure the bike is stable and will not fall before proceeding further! Scootworks, Inc. 3 5. Using the 17mm Allen wrench, finish loosening the front axle until it is completely free from the left side of the lower fork. Hold onto the front wheel and slowly remove the axle from the front fork. Be careful not to let the wheel drop. Having a helper hold the wheel for you as you remove the axle will ease the removal. Slide the brake rotor out of the calipers. NOTE: be careful not to operate the front brake controls with the brake rotor removed from the calipers. 6. With the wheel removed from the front forks, lay the wheel on a padded or cushioned surface with the brake rotor facing upwards. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the 5 Allen bolts from the brake rotor. (The bolts are sometimes installed with loctite, and may require heating with a small torch to loosen the loctite). Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Place the wheel to the side. Clean up the bolts as you will reuse them later. 7. Take your new custom wheel that you will be installing on your bike and place it on a cushioned or padded surface to prevent scratching. Turn it so that the side where the brake rotor attaches is facing upward. 8. Ensure the brake rotor mounting holes on the wheel are clean and free of oil or grease. Clean with alcohol if needed, then let dry. Place your new brake rotor adapter plate onto the wheel with the flat side against the wheel. Apply a small amount of medium strength (blue) loctite on each of the 5/16″ Allen bolts supplied with your kit and install through the new rotor adapter plate and into the wheel. Tighten with a 3/16″ Allen wrench until snug. When all bolts are installed, tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 9. Install your brake rotor onto the new brake rotor adapter using the original bolts you removed in step 6. Apply a small amount of medium strength loctite to each bolt and install through the brake rotor into the new brake rotor adapter. Tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 10. It is now time to install your new wheel/rotor adapter onto your bike. It is easiest to accomplish this with a helper, as it takes some coordination to get the wheel, brake rotor and spacers into place. Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle. Lift the front wheel into place between the front forks, aligning the brake rotor into the caliper. The caliper floats from left to right and can be moved into the proper position. If the caliper is closed, pry the brake pads apart so that the rotor will slide into the caliper.

1961 MODEL G2CS ELECTRICAL CONVERSION FOR COMPETITION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The entire electric system except the battery, ignition switch, ignition wiring and coil can be removed for off-the-highway competition. 1. Remove the saddle and gasoline tank. 2. Pull the lighting harness wires from the connectors, leaving the connectors in place, unless removal is specified. Follow the code for easiest disconnection. a. Translucent. b. Purple. c. Double Brown from four way connector and horn connector. d. Black from connector at tail lamp. e. Orange. f. Yellow – keep the connector on this wire. g. Light Green. 3. Connect the Yellow wire from the ignition harness into the double connector with the Light Green wires. 4. Pull the Brown wire at the four wire connector and at the tail lamp. Pull out and remove the stoplight harness and switch. 5. Remove the horn. 6. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the drive gearbox. NOTE: The gearbox cable socket should be taped to keep out dirt or the gearbox may be removed. Be sure to reinstall all wheel supporting and spacing parts. 7. Remove the left grip, loosen the set screw, slide the dip switch from the handlebar and replace the grip. 8. Remove the headlamp with the wiring harnesses and speedometer cable. 9. Remove the tail lamp and bracket. Service Release #6-82 (con’t) March 27, 1961 The wiring left on the motorcycle is shown on page 45 of the 1961 G2 Instruction Book. With the connections as shown, the ignition is normally from the battery but the emergency start circuit is available in case the battery becomes discharged

kawasakI 9400 hyPercharger kIt INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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steP 1 Remove the seat. steP 2 Remove the bottom of the three dash plaque bolts (8mm). steP 3 Lift up on the dash panel and unscrew the speedometer cable (knurled nut). steP 4 Unplug the three electrical connections. steP 5 With a 12mm socket, remove the tank-mounting bolt under the dash and at the rear of the tank. steP 6 Close the fuel valve and clamp off the fuel line. Disconnect the line from the fuel valve. steP 7 Raise the rear of the tank, and disconnect the two vent hoses, and remove the tank. steP 8 Refer to the section of your factory service manual that deals with removal and installation of the following components. • Remove the two round chrome “air cleaner covers”, their backing plates, the stock black plastic air box (air inlet under tank), and the crossover tube. • Remove the intake manifold to remove and crossover tube. Use extreme care when replacing the intake manifold. Uneven torque, damage to the intake gaskets, or contamination can cause an intake leak that will result in very poor running, and nearly impossible jetting!! • Unplug all hoses or lines from these components. You may want to label these hoses at this time. The Largest of these hoses (3/4″ I.D.) is for the fresh air injection system; the second largest (3/8″ I.D.) is the crankcase breather. The smallest of the hoses is a drain. steP 9 Remove the brackets that held each round backing plate. The right hand bracket is also a carb stabilizer. This function is duplicated with one of the included brackets. steP 10 Remove the carburetor according to the section in your factory service manual that outlines procedures for carburetor removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation. We recommend that you label each hose or fitting as they are removed to make reassembly easier. An example of hose labeling is shown in PIC. 1. carburetor re-jettIng Procedure note Different combinations of aftermarket exhaust and air cleaners will have a significant impact on carburetor jetting. The supplied jetting components have been tested and found to be a good combination to produce drivability and performance with stock or free flowing, muffled/baffled exhaust pipes. We highly recommend NOT using drag pipes (open style). Using drag pipes in conjunction with our air cleaner will require additional jetting above and beyond the components included in this kit. a) Consult your factory service manual for details of this procedure. We have supplied jets to cover many common configurations. Remove the four Phillips head screws securing the plastic carb top to the carb body. Carefully remove the plastic carb top making sure not to damage the rubber diaphragm.