HARLEY DAVIDSON STREET STALKER FRONT FENDER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. If model has mechanical speedometer drive, remove cable from fender bracket. Disconnect speedometer cable from the speedometer head. 2. Remove front wheel according to the Service Manual. 3. Disconnect and remove fender tip light power wire. 4. Remove hardware that holds fender in place and remove fender. INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1 and Table 1. For each support bracket (4), remove backing from one side of tape (3), and affix tape to support bracket, carefully matching the contours of the bracket and tape for proper fit. 2. Remove backing from tape and place support brackets into position on the inside of fender (one on each side), aligning the mounting holes in each bracket with the holes in the fender. The tape side will affix to the inside of the fender. 3. Carefully place fender in position and secure fender with screws and flanged locknuts in kit. Tighten hardware to 12 ft-lbs (16.27 Nm). 4. Install front wheel according to the Service Manual. 5. Install mechanical speedometer cable. Use tie wrap (10081) to secure

URAL 2004 Model Retro Solo SPECIFICATIONS And Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 11-11-2010

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SPECIFICATIONS GENERAL Retro Maximum speed of motorcycle 120 km/h 74 mph Reference fuel consumption at 85% of 14 km/L 33 mpg Dry mass of motorcycle 680 lb. Maximum load-carrying capacity 400 lb. Noise level below 80db OVERALL DIMENSIONS Length 2500 mm / 8 ft Width 1700 mm / 5 ft 6 in Height 1100 mm / 3 ft 6 in Road Clearance 125 mm / 5 in Seat height 840 mm / 33 in Wheel base 1470 mm / 58 in ENGINE Type 4 stroke, overhead valves, opposed twin-cylinder Displacement 745 cc Cylinder bore 78 mm Piston stroke 78 mm Compression ratio 9.0 :1 Rated horsepower 33 KW / 44.2 BHp Rated rotational speed 5600 RPM Rated torque 36 ft.-lbs @ 3750 RPM Lubrication system Dual system of forced lubrication and splashing Lubricant SAE 20W/50 CARBURETOR Carburetor type 32 CVK Keihin Number of carburetors 2 Air cleaner Paper Filter Element Lifetime JR Fuel 91 octane premium unleaded gasoline PCV Valve Internal Breather 8 ELECTRICAL Ignition system 135.3734.COM-2 (CDI) Ignition coil 135.3705-2 Spark plugs NGK BP7H Ignition timing Automatic spark timer Alternator 35 amp / 12 Volt Battery Interstate #YB18L-A or equivalent Headlight Sylvania Halogen 6024, 7″ round sealed beam TRANSMISSION Clutch Dry double-disk clutch Gearbox 4 speed gearbox with reverse gear lever GEAR RATIOS I gear 3.6 II gear 2.28 III gear 1.56 IV gear 1.19 Reverse gear 4.36 Speedometer drive ratio 0.4 Final drive ratio 3.86 FLUID CAPACITIES Fuel tank 5 Gal / 19L Reserve .5 Gal / 2L Engine 68 oz / 2L Transmission 30.6 oz / .9 L Final drive 3.74 oz / 110 ml Shock Absorbers 3.5 oz / 105 ml RUNNING GEAR FrameTubular welded Rear wheel suspension Swing arms with spring shock absorbers Front fork Telescopic Brakes Hydraulic Disk on front, Hydraulic Drum on rear Tires 110 / 90 – 18″ Front 22 psi cold (1.5 Bar / 150 kPa) Front 22 psi cold Rear 36 psi cold (2.5 Bar / 250 kPa) Rear 36 psi cold

URAL Classic Motorcycles SPECIFICATIONS And Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Maximum speed of motorcycle 108 km/h 65mph 119 km/h 70 mph Reference fuel consumption at 85% of 12.5 km/L 29 mpg 14 km/L 32.5 mpg maximum speed Dry mass of motorcycle 700 lb 680 lb. Maximum load-carrying capacity 500 lb. / 485 lb. 400 lb. Noise level below 80db OVERALL DIMENSIONS Length 2500 mm / 8 ft Width 1700 mm / 5 ft 6 in Height 1100 mm / 3 ft 6 in Road Clearance 125 mm / 5 in Seat height 840 mm / 33 in Wheel base 1470 mm / 58 in ENGINE Type 4 stroke, overhead valves, opposed twin-cylinder Displacement 649 cc Cylinder bore 78 mm Piston stroke 68 mm Compression ratio 9.1:1 Rated horsepower 25.8 KW / 35 Hp Rated rotational speed 5600 RPM Rated torque, Nm 45 Nm / 33.2 ft.-lbs. Lubrication system Dual system of forced lubrication and by splashing Lubricant SAE 20W/50 CARBURETOR Carburetor type 32 CVK Keihin Number of carburetors 2 Air cleaner K & N Air filter Fuel 91 octane premium unleaded gasoline PCV Valve Internal Breather
12 ELECTRICAL Ignition system (CDI) Ignition coil 135.AC.B Spark plugs NGK BP7HVX / or equivalent Ignition timing Automatic spark timer Alternator 35 amp / 12 Volt Battery Interstate #YTX20L-BS or equivalent Headlight Sylvania Halogen 6024, 7″ round sealed beam TRANSMISSION Clutch Dry double-disk clutch Gearbox 4 speed gearbox with reverse gear lever GEAR RATIOS I gear 3.6 II gear 2.28 III gear 1.7 IV gear 1.3 Reverse gear 4.2 Speedometer drive ratio 0.4 Deco & BC-65 0.5 Final drive ratio 4.62 FLUID CAPACITIES Tourist, Bavarian Patrol & Deco Fuel tank 5 Gal / 19L 5 Gal / 19L Reserve .5 Gal / 2L .5 Gal / 2L Engine 76 oz / 2.25L 76oz / 2.25 L Transmission 34 oz / 1 L 34oz / 1 L Final drive 3.5 oz / 105 ml 4.5 oz / 135 ml Telescopic Forks N/A on Tourist N/A on Patrol (LC-75 & Deco) 135ml / 4.5 oz Shock Absorbers 105 ml / 3.5 oz 105ml / 3.5 oz

HONDA VT-600 Front Wheel Adapter kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, loosen the 2 front axle pinch bolts on the right side of the lower fork leg. Loosen bolts 4 or 5 turns. 2. Using a 17mm Allen wrench, slightly loosen the front axle from the right side of the bike. Having the front wheel on the ground will help you in loosening the axle. Do not remove the axle at this time! 3. Loosen and remove the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer on your handlebars. Pull the speedometer cable all the way out of the front fork. Remove the cable from the speedometer drive on your front wheel (note the position of the connection as it will be similar on your new drive installation). This speedometer cable or speedometer drive will not be needed on your new wheel installation. 4. Block the back wheel to prevent the bike from rolling backwards, and raise the motorcycle’s front wheel off of the ground, so the wheel spins freely. You can do this with a motorcycle lift placed under the front portion of the motorcycle frame. Contact Scootworks to purchase a lift if you don’t have access to one. Ensure the bike is stable and will not fall before proceeding further! Scootworks, Inc. 3 5. Using the 17mm Allen wrench, finish loosening the front axle until it is completely free from the left side of the lower fork. Hold onto the front wheel and slowly remove the axle from the front fork. Be careful not to let the wheel drop. Having a helper hold the wheel for you as you remove the axle will ease the removal. Slide the brake rotor out of the calipers. NOTE: be careful not to operate the front brake controls with the brake rotor removed from the calipers. 6. With the wheel removed from the front forks, lay the wheel on a padded or cushioned surface with the brake rotor facing upwards. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the 5 Allen bolts from the brake rotor. (The bolts are sometimes installed with loctite, and may require heating with a small torch to loosen the loctite). Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Place the wheel to the side. Clean up the bolts as you will reuse them later. 7. Take your new custom wheel that you will be installing on your bike and place it on a cushioned or padded surface to prevent scratching. Turn it so that the side where the brake rotor attaches is facing upward. 8. Ensure the brake rotor mounting holes on the wheel are clean and free of oil or grease. Clean with alcohol if needed, then let dry. Place your new brake rotor adapter plate onto the wheel with the flat side against the wheel. Apply a small amount of medium strength (blue) loctite on each of the 5/16″ Allen bolts supplied with your kit and install through the new rotor adapter plate and into the wheel. Tighten with a 3/16″ Allen wrench until snug. When all bolts are installed, tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 9. Install your brake rotor onto the new brake rotor adapter using the original bolts you removed in step 6. Apply a small amount of medium strength loctite to each bolt and install through the brake rotor into the new brake rotor adapter. Tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 10. It is now time to install your new wheel/rotor adapter onto your bike. It is easiest to accomplish this with a helper, as it takes some coordination to get the wheel, brake rotor and spacers into place. Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle. Lift the front wheel into place between the front forks, aligning the brake rotor into the caliper. The caliper floats from left to right and can be moved into the proper position. If the caliper is closed, pry the brake pads apart so that the rotor will slide into the caliper.

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AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL- WIDTH REAR WHEEL HUBS

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The numbers shown thus: (2), refer to the num­ bered parts in the illustration. (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gearbox in position. (c) Remove the wheel from the frame. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Slacken the circlip lock-nut (13). (f) Unscrew and remove the adjusting sleeve (14). With it will come: the sleeve (2) upon which the speedometer-drive No. 504 gearbox is mounted; the lock-nut (13) and the hub cover disc. (g) From the brake side of the wheel remove the spindle nut (19) and washer (18), the spacer for the fork end (17), and the outer spacer (20) (h) Withdraw the brake cover plate com­ plete with the brake shoes from the brake drum. (i) Remove the inner spacer (12). (j) If it is desired to remove the brake drum, take off the nuts (23) and washers (24). and pull the drum away from the hub. It is located on a spigot in the hub. The bolts (25) will remain in the hub and can be pushed out. (k) Press out the spindle (1). It can be withdrawn from either side and pushed out with a press and a suitable brass or copper rod of slightly less diameter than the spindle, or driven out with a ham­ mer and a copper or brass drift. (1) Remove the oil-seal retaining washer (3). the oil seal (4), the oil-seal cup (5), and oil-seal distance piece (6). These can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw-driver