Yamaha Forward Control Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-01-2012

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After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use

2006 – 2007 Toyota SHOCK ABSORBER REPLACEMENT CRITERIA

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-09-2011

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light oil seepage from oil seal case Moderate oil seepage from oil seal case Oil leak/drip on the seal case, extending
below the spring seat Oil leak, covering top, spring seat, and part of strut body Oil leak,covering entire strut body,
spring seat, and knuckle bracket ACTION Normal oil evaporation — NOT necessary to replace the shock absorber
Normal oil evaporation — NOT necessary to replace the shock absorber Abnormal oil leak — Replace the shock bsorber Abnormal oil leak — Replace the shock absorber Abnormal oil leak — Replace the shock absorber

2008 Honda CBR1000RR Clutch Inner Installation PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-04-2011

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Refer to the 2008 CBR1000RR Service Manual for specific removal instructions. While completing this procedure, be careful not to damage the covers, cowls, or any other components. 1. Remove the air intake cover (page 3-8). 2. Remove the upper inner cover (page 3-9). 3. Remove the lower cowl (page 3-9). 4. Remove the right middle cowl (page 3-10). 5. Remove the right crankcase cover (page 10-5). Clutch Removal (page 10-7) 6. Remove the starter idle gear and shaft. 7. Remove the snap ring and stopper ring. 8. Remove the clutch lifter piece and plate. 9. Unstake the clutch center lock nut. Be careful not to damage the mainshaft threads. 10. Hold the pressure plate with the special tool. You must use the special tool (Clutch Holder, T/N 070MB-MFLA100) when removing the lock nut. Using an impact wrench will damage the main shaft threads. Clutch Holder: 070MB-MFLA100 (autoshipped in May 2008) 11. Remove the clutch center lock nut and washer and discard the lock nut as shown on top of page 3 12. Remove the clutch spring holder, spring seat, and two clutch springs. 13. Remove the spring seat. 14. Remove the following: • Pressure plate
• Spring seat • Judder spring • Clutch disc A • Clutch plate A • Seven clutch discs B • Clutch disc C  Clutch center NOTE: Do not remove the clutch outer. New Clutch Installation (page 10-20) NOTE: The new clutch disc assembly has a dif- ferent order of plates than the illustration shown in the Service Manual. Keep note of this when repairing updated units.
15. Install the new clutch disc assembly with- out removing the setting bolts. Rotate the main shaft to align the clutch disc assem- bly with the main shaft spline. 16. Slightly loosen the setting bolts. 17. Rotate clutch disc C to align its tabs into clutch outer shallow slots, then fully install the clutch disc assembly. 18. Remove and discard the setting bolts. 19. Install the spring seat

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XL SPRING SEAT MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Refer to service manual and remove the existing seat, seat post, washer and screw. Do not remove grommet or T-spacer from rear fender. Save the washer and screw for later installation. 2. See Figure 1. Clean the frame surface where the hook- and-loop strip will be attached with a 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water. Let it dry completely. 3. Install the frame cover to the frame as follows: a. Remove the loop side of the hook-and-loop (3) from the bottom of the frame cover (1). b. Remove the protective tape from the hook-and-loop strip and attach it to the frame as shown. Wrap it under the frame or trim excess length, if necessary. c. Orient the frame cover so that it covers the seat pan and secure the cover to the frame with the hook-and- loop strips. 4. See Figure 3. Install two springs (2) to the mounting bracket (1), oriented as shown, with screws (3). Tighten screws to 25-30 ft-lbs (34-41 Nm) . 5. See Figure 3. Install mounting bracket to frame tab a. Install mounting bracket (1) over frame tab. Orient it so that the two retaining tabs on the mounting bracket will hold down and be fully seated on the frame cover. b. Secure mounting bracket with screw (B), washer (C) and nut (4). Do not tighten. c. Center the frame cover and mounting bracket to the motorcycle frame. d. Tighten mounting bracket screw and nut to 15-20 ft- lbs (20-27 Nm) . 6. Install seat pivot bracket (15), washers (14) and screws (13) to the seat. Tighten screws to 48-72 in-lbs (5.5-8.0 Nm) . 7. Remove the rear fuel tank mounting screw, washers, nut and thread protector. Save washers for later installation

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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