Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

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HONDA TRX 650 RINCON 4X4, TRX 680 Rincon BLADE HARDWARE MOUNTING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 26-12-2011

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Push tube/ Swivel/ Blade Assembly Instructions 1. Install the blade swivel (15) onto the front of the push tube (14) using the 1/2″ shoulder bolt (4), two 1/2″ washers (5), and a 3/8″ Nylock nut (3) from the bolt bag per diagram #1. Make sure the flat washers seat properly on the bottom of the shoulder bolt while tightening the nut. Make sure the blade turns freely. 2. Remove the 2 bottom flanged nuts (I) from the u-bolt (D) and 2 from the 3/8″ bolts (H) on the blade position pin assembly (23). Run the 2 top flanged nuts up the threads of the u-bolt. Place the blade position pin assembly on the push tube as shown in the Diagram, sliding the blade position pin through one of the oval holes on the swivel and through the rear blade position pin support bracket on the push tube. 3. Re-install the u-bolt and 3/8″ bolts and flanged nuts per the Diagram. On the u-bolt, thread the bottom nuts up until they are flush with the bottom of the threads then run the top ones down, making sure the bottom nuts remain flush with the bottom of the u-bolt. Tighten all 4 bottom nuts. 4. Remove the two shoulder bolts (18) from the pivot point brackets on the back of the blade (1). Attach the blade to the swivel by sliding the ears on each side of the swivel into the pivot point brackets on the blade, reinstall the two shoulder bolts and Nylock nut (3) and tighten. 5. Hook the blade springs (6) to the two round holes on either side of the 5 oval holes on the swivel. Hook the eyebolts through the other end of the springs, push the eyebolts through the spring attaching points on the back of the blade and install 3/8″ Nylock nuts (3). Spring tension may be increased by tightening both Nylock nuts on the eyebolts evenly. 6. Install the blade stops (16) with the two 3/8″ x 1″ bolts (17) and 3/8″ nuts (3) per the Diagram. Rotating the stops allows you to change the blade pitch to suit changing conditions or materials

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Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

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2008 CBR1000RR replace the clutch inner

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 06-11-2011

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Clamping Centerstand to Frame. Notice the centerstand is shipped with (2) white plastic washers. Note: See photo #2-A These are in place to overcome the spring tension or lock the stand in place and allow you to pivot the lower stand down partially to make installation easier. Pivot the upper stand about half way from the retracted to the extended (down) position. Note: This will require some force. If the stand will not stay in the position you can further tighten the two 9/16” pivot nuts. Remove the bolts from the four band clamps. Wrap the (2) small clamps around the small upper frame tube and start the bolts so that the bolt will be at the bottom of the tube and the wrench head facing towards the rear of the motorcycle. Note: See photo #2. Center the stand on the frame from side to side so as to gain even clearance between the feet on the centerstand and the rear tire when the stand is in the retracted position. Holding the larger cradle up against the frame, tighten the (2) small clamps enough to hold the centerstand in place. Install one of the large clamps as shown in photo #3-A. Install the 2 nd large clamp as shown in photo #2-C. Again retract the stand and check that the feet have even amounts of space from the side of the rear tire. Tighten the flour clamps securely 5-7 ft. lbs. Next remove the (2) 9/16” pivot nuts and the white plastic washers as shown in photo #2-A. Re-install and tighten the 9/16” pivot nuts securely 8-12 ft lbs. With the stand in the retracted position-adjust the stop bolt and lock nut, see photo #3-B, so that the stand is parallel with the ground and does not come incontact with any parts of the motorcycle

Honda ST 1300 Series Single Shock Supplement

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-02-2011

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Check the orientation of the adjuster on the shock body – looking at the top of the shock, the hydraulic line port should be165 degrees (clockwise) from the nitrogen pressure valve (see figure 2) . If it is not properly oriented, you will need to reposition it. To do this, hold the upper shock eye securely in a vice and carefully rotate the Remote Adjustable Pre-Load adjuster the desired direction. This may be somewhat difficult due to spring tension, and may require slight loosening of the locking ring. Also, the spring, shaft, and lower mount may rotate while repositioning the adjuster. This is OK, just be sure to realign it with the upper mount (also be sure the rebound adjuster on the lower mount is properly oriented as noted below). Mount the shock as you would your stock shock per your authorized shop manual (with the rebound adjustment at the bottom) noting the following: n As you mount the shock, feed the Remote Adjustable Pre-Load adjuster through the same path as the stock line was routed to the same location. n Do not loosen or attempt to rotate the line between the shock and the adjuster. n Make sure the shock rebound adjustment is facing the right side of the motorcycle and the pressure valve is facing up and towards the rear (figure 3) . n Tighten shock bolts to the proper torque specifications (refer to your manual). n Mount the adjuster to the supplied mounting bracket adapter using the supplied M6-1.0X8mm SHCS fasteners and torque them to 80- 90 in/lbs (9-10 N-m). Then mount the bracket and adjuster to the bike in the same location as the stock preload adjuster using the supplied M6-1.0X20mm SHCS fasteners & nuts, and torque them to 80-90 in/lbs (9-10 N-m) (figure 4 & 5) . n Using the supplied zip-ties, secure the hydraulic line away from any moving parts or heat sources.

HONDA 1100 ACE, AERO AND SABRE CENTERSTAND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2010

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Relocation of Regulator. Laying under the right side of the motorcycle, locate the voltage regulator. (finned aluminum box-approximately 3″x 4″) Note: See photo #1 – regulator already relocated. Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts attaching the regulator to the frame. Attach the bracket supplied to the regulator as shown. Using the original bolts, attach the regulator and bracket assembly to the frame as shown in photo #1 using the two 10 mm bolts supplied. Clamping Centerstand to Frame . Notice the centerstand is shipped with (2) white plastic washers. Note: See photo #2-A These are in place to overcome the spring tension or lock the stand in place and allow you to pivot the lower stand down partially to make installation easier. Pivot the upper stand about half way from the retracted to the extended (down) position. Note: This will require some force. If the stand will not stay in the position you can further tighten the two 9/16″ pivot nuts. Remove the bolts from the four band clamps. Wrap the (2) small clamps around the small upper frame tube and start the bolts so that the bolt will be at the bottom of the tube and the wrench head facing towards the rear of the motorcycle. Note: See photo #2. Center the stand on the frame from side to side so as to gain even clearance between the feet on the centerstand and the rear tire when the stand is in the retracted position. Holding the larger cradle up against the frame, tighten the (2) small clamps enough to hold the centerstand in place. Install one of the large clamps as shown in photo #3-A. Install the 2nd large clamp as shown in photo #2-C. Again retract the stand and check that the feet have even amounts of space from the side of the rear tire. Tighten the flour clamps securely 5-7 ft. lbs. Next remove the (2) 9/16″ pivot nuts and the white plastic washers as shown in photo #2-A. Re-install and tighten the 9/16″ pivot nuts securely 8-12 ft lbs. With the stand in the retracted position-adjust the stop bolt and lock nut, see photo #3-B, so that the stand is parallel with the ground and does not come in contact with any parts of the motorcycle. Using your new centerstand . To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail or grab under the bottom of the seat. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now put all of your weight onto the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail or seat using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up onto the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting!

Performance Starts Here RACING CARBURETORS

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Mikuni RS Series Radial Flat Slide carburetors represent the first ever aftermarket true high performance carbs offered to the racing public. Designated the RS for radial slide design, these carbs feature such innovations as: large 34, 36 or 38mm smoothbores, excellent throttle response and streetability, adjustable accelerator pump system, lighter more compact design, quick change needle clip, cam-lock carb synchronizing, horsepower improvement of 25% to 30% and competition priced. • Starter System: Provides fuel enrichment for cold engine starting. • Accelerator Pump Adjust Screws: Sets on and off operation of accelerator pump in relation to throttle slide position. • Adjustable Accelerator Pump: Squirts fuel into carburetor venturi when throttle is opened to improve engine response. • Idle Adjustment Screw: Controls engine idle speed. • Throttle Return Spring: A choice of positioning pegs allows adjustment of spring tension. • Genuine Mikuni Jets: Provide for precise fuel metering. • Pilot Air Jet: in conjunction with the Pilot Fuel Screw for tuning of mixture at idle to 1/4 throttle. • Float Bowl Vent: Allows atmospheric pressure into float bowl for fuel flow. • Smooth Throttle Bore/Venturi: Produces the optimum air and fuel mixture flow at all RPMs. • Jet Needle Clip: Has easy adjustment feature for quick tuning. • Accelerator Pump Spray Nozzle: Shoots fuel directly into the intake tract for immediate engine response. • Flat Throttle Valve Design: Provides the strongest signal for precise and instantaneous throttle response

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