Toyota Celica GT 2000- 2003 5 speed and automatic REMOVAL and INSTALLATION

0

Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 23-09-2011

Download
Remove the OBD canister, vacuum switching valve and air temperature control sensor from the air box
without removing any vacuum lines. Once all sensors have been removed take out the remaining air box
and air duct leading to the throttle body. Remove the two-piece air duct leading into the black ECU box.
We recommend you remove the front bumper to make the installation easier. The vacuum switching
valve used to control the valves or by-pass flaps in the box will no longer be used. These flaps control the
amount of air taken in when the engine is running. A 3mm cap will cap-off the port at the engine block.
2 Slip the 2 3/4” straight hose over the throttle body and use two clamps. Tighten the clamp on the throttle
body at this point. (See fig. 2) 3 Remove the black relay fuse box from the bracket bolted to the car frame. (See figs. 1) Remove the stock m6 bolt holding the bracket in place and set the OBD canister on top of the bracket. Screw
the stock bolt tight in place securing the OBD canister to the bracket. Take the vibra-mount and screw
it into the tapped hole right above the OBD canister. (See fig. 6) 4 Once the bumper has been removed cut an opening in the lower section of the plastic wheel well as seen in figure 3. A razor or any cutting device will work to make the opening

Incoming search terms:

2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

download
Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

Incoming search terms:

2008 KAWASAKI KLR 650 REAR LINE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 13-01-2011

download
The OEM brake line for your bike was routed behind / under the caliper. This caused the line to loop around the caliper. Your Galfer brake line is cut shorter so it can be routed down the swing arm and into the “C” clip pictured. This eliminates the extra hose that could get caught on a bush, tree, rock, etc. New Galfer “C” clip must be installed with the new hose using the existing stock bolt.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL DUALS AND SLIP ONS INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-12-2010

download
1. Attach mounting brackets 430-P on the left side and 431-P on the right side of the frame using two 3/8″ x 3/4″ fl ange head bolts on each one (supplied)(Figure 1). If equipped, plastic plugs must be removed. 2. Remove left foot peg and attach support bracket 428-P (Figure 1) using the stock bolt. Discard spacer if equipped. Do not tighten at this time. NOTE: On FLSTN models the passenger footpeg bracket should be removed. 3. Remove head pipes and heat shields from protective packaging. Place each heat shield on a non-abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. Using a felt tip pen, mark outside edge of each heat shield to show location of mounting clips that hose clamps will loop through (Figure 2). 4. Lay front head pipe, rear head pipe and muffl ers into their heat shields. 5. Install #20 hose clamps on heat shields and #28 on muffl er heat shields by feeding tail end of clamps into heat shield clips (Figure 2). Take note of clamp screw head direction (Figure 3). Screw heads must be accessible when system is installed on motorcycle for adjustment purposes. NOTE: Do not tighten at this time. 6. Install exhaust port fl anges and circlips from stock system onto head pipes (Figure 4). 7. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads of one of the oxygen sensors and install it into front head pipe. NOTE: Be careful not to get anti-seize on sensor tip, it may affect sensor function. Do not install rear sensor at this time. 8. Disconnect front mount on shift lever rod to allow installation of rear head pipe (Figure 7). 9. Using stock fl ange nuts, carefully install head pipes into exhaust ports. Assistance may be required. NOTE: Do not tighten at this time. 10. Remove ignition coil cover to have open access to install rear sensor. 11. Install rear sensor using same instructions as step 7. Feed connector for rear oxygen sensor through frame and under the oil tank. Plug the sensor into stock wiring connector. 12. Slide a #59 T-bolt clamp (supplied) onto slotted end of left pipe. Slide slotted end onto head pipe tail (Figure 5). Align pipe with bracket 428-P previously installed in step 2. Install a #60 T-bolt clamp (supplied) by removing the nut and feeding the tail end through bracket hole (Figures 1 and 5). NOTE: Orient the clamp so that you can

Kawasaki 650/360 Prairie Lift Kit Installation and removal Instructions

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

download
1) Place jack under center of ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is securely supported but so that A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2) Remove front wheels. 3) Remove or loosen front plastic. 4) Remove C-clip and nut at the top of the strut. 5) Screw bracket “A” on top of strut to the same torque specifications as the nut. 6) Place the top adapter “A” through the top of the strut mount, and screw the original nut on the top of bracket “A” securing it to the strut mount. Tighten this nut to the required manufacturer specifications and replace the factory C-clip. 7) Repeat the procedure for the other side. 8) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment. Rear Lift 1) Place jack under ATV at the rear of the bottom skid plate and lift until the weight is off of the suspension. Be careful to secure the ATV properly so as not to fall off the jack. 2) Remove the bottom of the shock from the shock mount on the axle. 3) After removing the shock, jack the ATV up 1″-2″ further. 4) Place Bracket “B” between the shock and shock mount with the notched out ends facing downward. Insert stock bolt to secure bracket “B” to the shock mount and the shock. Fasten nut. 5) Insert the new 12x75mm Bolt to the top of bracket “B” and the shock eyelet and secure with a new 12mm nut. 6) Tighten all nuts and bolts to manufacturer’s torque specifications. 7) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment.

Incoming search terms: