Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2012

See Figure 1. Place a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and the lever bracket. 5. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to loosen the brake hand lever/master cylinder assembly and remove the right-side upper and lower switch housing sub-assemblies from the handlebar. It is not necessary to remove the throttle control grip. For FLHR models: Refer to the service manual. Disconnect the left-side handlebar MOLEX socket housing from the gray eight-way main harness pin housing [24B] inside the headlamp nacelle. Refer to the service manual to remove the clutch hand lever and left-side upper and lower switch housing subassemblies from the handlebar. 6. For ALL models: See Figure 2. The friction shoe (1) is a loose fit on the end of the tension adjuster screw (2). Make sure the shoe has been removed with the switch housing sub-assemblies, and is not lodged in the groove of the throttle control grip (4). 3 4 1 2 is06318 1. Friction shoe 2. Tension adjuster screw 3. Right-side lower switch housing 4. Throttle control grip Figure 2. Throttle Tension Adjuster Screw and Friction Shoe 7. See Figure 1. Verify that the 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert is in place between the brake lever and the lever bracket. Obtain the new right-side handlebar switch housing assembly (Item 4 or 5, depending on model) from the kit. Separate the upper and lower halves of the housing assembly. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to install the switch housing assembly and brake hand lever/master cylinder assembly to the handlebar. 8. Route the right-side switch harness along the same path as the original harness (along the right handlebar). Connect the pin housing to the black socket housing disconnected in Step 3. 9. For FLHT, FLHTC, FLHX, FLHXXX and FLTRX models: Continue at Step 11. For FLHR models: Obtain the new left-side switch housing assembly (6) from the kit. Separate the upper and lower halves of the switch housing assembly. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to install the left-side switch housing assembly and clutch hand lever assembly to the handlebar. 10. Route the left-side hand control harness along the same path as the original harness (along the left handlebar). Connect the pin housing to the gray socket housing disconnected in Step 5

Honda ATV 650 Lift Kit REMOVAL AND Installation


Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-01-2012

Place jack under center on the ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels and shocks. 3. Using a shock spring compressor, compress the spring on the shock and remove the spring retaining ring.
CAUTION: The spring is installed under tension. Failure to use a shock spring compressor could cause loss of control of the spring, which could unload rapidly causing bodily injury. If you do not have a shock spring compressor you should acquire one or take it to a dealer or professional mechanic for installation of the stiffeners. 4. Remove the spring. 5. Insert the smaller front spring stiffener onto the shock with the lip of the spring stop, on the shock, mating into the recessed portion of the spring stiffener. 6. Slide the spring back onto the shock and it should rest on the lip of the spring stiffener.
7. Reattach the spring retaining ring. 8. Repeat steps for the opposite side. Once springs are complete reattach the top of the shock to the top shock mount on the ATV and the spring stiffener will be closest to the A-arm. 9. Take two of the “L” brackets and connect them to the bottom of the shock, the part that connects to the A-arms. 10. There is a top and bottom to the “L” bracket. See the diagram

Dual Battery Installation for 1985 Toyota 4Runner


Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 16-09-2011

I reviewed a number of locations on my 4Runner including the engine bay, under the body
and rear cargo area. Of all those areas, I decided on the engine bay as the most convenient,
the safest location and the easiest to wire and protect the batteries. Careful measurement of
the OEM battery location showed that by rotating the OEM battery 90 degrees, another
battery could be shoehorned in with some minor modifications. See figure 1 for a photo of
the OEM battery location.
The first problem to solve when mounting batteries in this location is to move the OEM fuse
box approximately 1” towards the rear of the truck. See figure 2 on how I was able to move
my fuse box 1” inch. There is just enough slack in the factory wiring harness to make this
move without having to redo wiring harnesses or putting undo pressure or tension on the

Honda GL1000 Timing Belts Removal / Installation Manual


Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.



Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

1. Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Using a small screwdriver pry out the plastic caps covering the handlebar clamp bolts. 2. Reroute the clutch cable behind the steering head as follows. Remove the clutch cable from the lever and perch. To do this first loosen the cable adjuster lock nut and then the adjuster as far as possible to give its maximum free play. Align their slots with the slot in the perch so that the cable may slide out. Standing in front of the handlebars grasp the clutch cable firmly trying to pull it out of the adjuster with one hand while pulling in the lever with the other hand. Now release the lever rapidly. Repeat several times if needed while keeping outward tension on the cable until the cable is out of the adjuster then slide it out thru the slots and remove the cable end from the lever. Reroute the clutch cable behind the steering head this will allow the additional slack needed when moving the handlebars back with the new risers (see photo). Replace the cable into the perch in the same manner. 3. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four Allen bolts from the clamps and then remove the clamps. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 4. Remove the Allen bolts from the center of the risers while holding the 14mm nut on the bottom side of the steering head with a wrench. Remove the risers leaving the large washer on the top side of the steering head in place. Using the bolts and lock washers supplied and the original heavy or thick washer install the new risers making the bolts finger tight only. 5. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the new top clamps supplied using the four Allen bolts remover earlier. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position, tighten the front bolts first and then the rear securely. (15-18 ft. lbs.) (There should be no gap between the riser and clamp at the front side) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). Replace the plastic bolt caps.



Filed Under (Bajaj) by admin on 26-11-2010

Engine oil level a) Check for leaks b) Tighten filler cap securely. c) Add oil if required. 2. Fuel level a) Add fuel as necessary. b) Do not overfill (no fuel in the filler neck). c) Do not mix oil with gas. d) Replace cap tightly. e) Do not refuel a hot engine. Allow engine to cool before adding fuel. 3. Warning decals a) Make sure all warning decals are legible and securely attached. b) Replace as necessary. 4. Tires a) Ensure that both tires have at least 1/8 in. tread depth at center. b) Both tires must be inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. c) Replace the tires id tread height is less then 1/8 in. at the center of tires. 5. Drive chain a) Check condition and tension. b) Lubricate and adjust tension as necessary. 6. Throttle a) Check for smooth operation. Make sure the throttle “snaps” back to idle. b) Check for frayed cable or damaged cable housing. Replace damaged cable. c) Check for mud, debris and ice in the throttle cable/mechanism. Clean out any contamination.

BMW Poly-V Belt – R 1100 Models


Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

Information: In an effort to reduce service volume, a maintenance-free ribbed Poly-V belt was adopted on all R1100 models from engine number 38946130 onwards (09/94 production onwards). This belt does not need to be retentioned (even at the 600 mile service). The old belt required replacement every 24,000 miles. The new style belt is to be replaced every 36,000 miles. Use the same torque procedure as the old belt. Replacement of an old style belt with the new maintenance free belt requires the use of the new parts below: Parts Kit: 12 31 1 342 086 (kit consists of the following) In addition to the Poly-V belt, the following parts were also changed: 1. Top pulley new: steel old: Aluminum 2. Bottom pulley new no spot welds: old: steel w/three spot welds on front 3. Belt new: Ribbed, printing on belt (1342059 Fa. Dayco) or (1341779 Fa. Conti) Slight squeaking may be heard for a short time after a cold start when temperature is below 50°F. The belt should reach it’s correct operating tension soon after the start up. The belt only needs retentioned if the slight squeaking does not stop after warm up.